Log splitter - kinetic v hydraulic type: pros and cons?

[John Galt]

Thinking of purchasing a log splitter for homeowner use at my cabin. Considering the two types mentioned, any recommendations regarding use, safety and maintenance?

The kinetic type looks fast, but maybe a little scary to use, hydraulic looks slow and steady and more controllable. Throughput is not an issue, I am retired and it’s just for a wood stove in my fishing cabin and maybe lend to my brother. Maybe it splits a cord or two a year.

I like electric power to remove the gas motor maintenance and starting. issue. Manual splitting is not an option with my history of back issues. All feels great now and want to keep it that way.

 

[jeepman3071]

Hydraulic is better in most cases, with the exception being the commercial grade kinetics are faster. If you prefer electric, find the most powerful electric one you can. The only cons in my mind of the electric are they are usually slower and lower to the ground. This isn't a big deal if you find a table or cart to mount them to, and the speed isn't a big deal for 1-2 cord a year.

 

[maineiac]

I've owned them both and am currently using a commercial grade Super Split. My previous splitter was commercial grade hydraulic with a high flow rate pump (fast cycle speed... for a hydraulic). A few thoughts regarding your questions:

1. The kinetic unit is not "scary" at all. It is faster on the splitting stroke (not "scary" fast), but where it gets most of it's speed advantage is on the return stroke, which does not present any danger of crushed fingers, etc.

2. The kinetic splitters are very productive in comparison to hydro splitters, provided that you have a high enough "feed rate". With a single operator, you lose most of this advantage. I've found that a three person team is about perfect in maximizing the output capability of my kinetic.

3. If you don't have a higher throughput objective (1-2 cords/year is very modest production), hydraulic is the way to go as a good kinetic splitter is a lot more expensive than non-commercial hydros.

4. If you want electric, kinetics like the Super Split can be ordered with electric motors for a nice, quiet and exhaust free splitting experience. The nature of the beast lends itself well to electric power. I've seen a few electric standard hydro units (I think they all started life as standard hydro units) and they were terminally slow even with their 220 motors (I don't know the size of the motors). I'm aware of some light duty electric models out there that are easily portable, have limited "oomph" and are super slow but if your volumes are limited, your wood is easily split with relatively few knots they are inexpensive and might just do the trick.

5. I have not found any great need for maintenance on either kinetics or hydros. Change oil in the motor regularly, adjust slides once in a great while and occasionally grease the slides and keep fresh gas in it and you're good to go. Close to anvil-like reliability if you do that and for 1-2 cords/year just use non-ethanol gas and keep stabilizer in it. It is nice to have a unit with a good air filter and hydro filter, but that's not necessary by any means.

6. Personally, I find the kinetic far superior (for my needs.. and budget was not a constraint).. I like the speed and find it more interesting to use (yes, I am easily amused). I haven't found the round that it won't split although once in a while it might take a couple of hits to split it (I have large flywheels and a geared motor on mine though). My hydro unit never needed 2 cycles as the pump would "shift into low" when it started bogging and it'd shear anything that I ever put in its way (yes, I found that interesting too ;-)).

For the price and what you've described as your needs, I'd get a lower-end gas powered hydro (like a 18-22 ton) unit from one of the big boxes and be done with it.

YMMV

 

[dlundblad]

What kind of wood will you be splitting?

 

[John Galt]

This is great information. My cabin is on 11 acres of land in north eastern PA that was never forested. We have many trees well over a hundred feet tall and 3-5 feet diameter at the ground level. A wooden shipbuilder from Maine would go ga-ga looking at these trees. It is all native eastern hardwoods, oak, ash, birch, sugar maple And others I’m not sure what they are, maybe larch. Not a pine in sight.

The spotted lantern fly has been seen there so that unfortunately will take out quite a few trees in the next few years. Only wind fall trees or those that threaten to cut off the driveway and need to be removed will be used. I’m a tree hugger by nature. No wood leaves the property because of the lantern fly.

 

[Brian123]

This is great information. My cabin is on 11 acres of land in north eastern PA that was never forested. We have many trees well over a hundred feet tall and 3-5 feet diameter at the ground level. A wooden shipbuilder from Maine would go ga-ga looking at these trees. It is all native eastern hardwoods, oak, ash, birch, sugar maple And others I’m not sure what they are, maybe larch. Not a pine in sight.

The spotted lantern fly has been seen there so that unfortunately will take out quite a few trees in the next few years. Only wind fall trees or those that threaten to cut off the driveway and need to be removed will be used. I’m a tree hugger by nature. No wood leaves the property because of the lantern fly.

Just some info, depends on how much wood you will be splitting, but in my area we have a guy with a hydraulic wood splitter who will come around and split wood for $40.00 an hour.

 

[IndyIan]

This is great information. My cabin is on 11 acres of land in north eastern PA that was never forested. We have many trees well over a hundred feet tall and 3-5 feet diameter at the ground level. A wooden shipbuilder from Maine would go ga-ga looking at these trees. It is all native eastern hardwoods, oak, ash, birch, sugar maple And others I’m not sure what they are, maybe larch. Not a pine in sight.

The spotted lantern fly has been seen there so that unfortunately will take out quite a few trees in the next few years. Only wind fall trees or those that threaten to cut off the driveway and need to be removed will be used. I’m a tree hugger by nature. No wood leaves the property because of the lantern fly.

Maybe find a small logger/portable sawmill guy? A few nice trees like that can pay you quite a bit, and then you can burn the slabs and not split anything. You have to find the right guy though, some people near me have been ripped off with a guy stealing their trees once he got onto their property with his equipment.

 

[mk378]

stealing their trees once he got onto their property with his equipment.

Get the money in advance. Clearly the trees aren't going anywhere.

 

[tnt_motorsports]

I've rented a gas powered hydraulic one from the local hardware store, it works good. I'm not a fan of the kinetic ones. It seems that it would be too easy to be distracted and bad things could happen IMO.

just my $0.02

 

[1 SX]

Funny this thread should pop up! I know really nothing about splitters, but this guy works really well!. About 10 sec cycle time. This pile of wood took me about 10 hours total to split all of it!. Has more then enough power, and never once did i come across a piece I could not split. Good stuff!

 

[John Galt]

09 GLS - what make/model splitter is that? Aside from the gas motor it looks like more than enough. My wife will be the one helping me, she can out work me but sometimes she can get too enthusiastic and rushes. The no off button type. The kinetic type is just a recipe for disaster with wood flying and her my helper.

I’m going to look into renting one, never thought of that. It is wood burning country so likely the local hardware store rents them too.

 

[nomas]

I always rented and split the cost with my neighbor .

 

[Snagglefoot]

I bought a 3.5 ton unit ( hydraulic ram powered by an electric pump). It’s a two handed operation with one hand on the lever and one hand on the push button. I suppose you could over ride things but when properly used the ergonomics keep your hands out of harms way. The ram is slow enough to also ensure safety. If I bought one again I would probably up it 4 tons. Most of my wood is delivered as 1/2 split which is customary and I quarter it. A 6 ton unit would be better if starting with full rounds. It seems the prices run at $80 US per ton. My unit was a Yard Works sold at Canadian Tire but I’m pretty sure they come under other generic names. Real men hand spit their wood but they also visit the chiropractor time to time.

 

[Snagglefoot]

A few more shots of mine.

 

[John Galt]

I bought a 3.5 ton unit ( hydraulic ram powered by an electric pump). It’s a two handed operation with one hand on the lever and one hand on the push button. I suppose you could over ride things but when properly used the ergonomics keep your hands out of harms way. The ram is slow enough to also ensure safety. If I bought one again I would probably up it 4 tons. Most of my wood is delivered as 1/2 split which is customary and I quarter it. A 6 ton unit would be better if starting with full rounds. It seems the prices run at $80 US per ton. My unit was a Yard Works sold at Canadian Tire but I’m pretty sure they come under other generic names. Real men hand spit their wood but they also visit the chiropractor time to time.

Thanks for this information and the pictures. Very useful. I like the safety of the electric ones but I am afraid they don’t have the power like you alluded to. Nameplate says 15 amps which I assume means that it requires plugging it in to a 20amp outlet to prevent breaker tripping? Also what type of wood are you splitting? I will always be starting with round logs. What is the max diameter for logs with this unit?

Again, Thanks for your time.

 

[Zaedock]

I heat with wood in winter. I have an old Huskee splitter that is at least 12+ years old now but has a Predator engine I swapped on after loaning it out (long story). I have used kinetic and they are fast and cool, but can get stuck in hard wood, which isn't too bad to remove if you know what you're doing. If you're only splitting 1 to 2 cord a year, I would run down to Tractor Supply and get whatever 20 something ton splitter on sale for a grand that is ready to roll. Run E free gas and/or use Stabil. I stabilize all my equipment fuels and haven't had an issue. Fires up on the coldest days (even negative ambient). It would pay for itself in a few years compared to renting.

Here is the last load of oak I brought home before the snow. My splitter won't think twice about splitting these rounds.

The small electric splitters are, well, small. If you have potential back issues, you're not going to want to split 2 full cord with it. My $.02

What are you cutting the rounds with?

 

[Kira]

Two neighbors share an old hydraulic unit with great success.

DO NOT "log by phone".
DO NOT let someone you don't know well on your land to "log". The damage I've seen done by huge extrication machines would amaze you.

Also, cherished, valuable timber was found to be rotten inside. The specialty logger left it there along with immense soil damage.
Just mentioning it.

 

[Snagglefoot]

Thanks for this information and the pictures. Very useful. I like the safety of the electric ones but I am afraid they don’t have the power like you alluded to. Nameplate says 15 amps which I assume means that it requires plugging it in to a 20amp outlet to prevent breaker tripping? Also what type of wood are you splitting? I will always be starting with round logs. What is the max diameter for logs with this unit?

Again, Thanks for your time.

It’s a good point and what saves the 15 Amp breaker from popping is that the motor is restricted to 1.75 HP. The 5 ton and 6.5 ton versions are also 1.75 HP. They would be slower as they have a greater volume to pump at high pressure. The different versions have different sized hydraulic cylinders. Having said that my unit is plugged into a 30 amp 120 V RV plug using an adapter so no issue anyhow. Yes a 20 amp plug would be good as well but low HP rating allows the breaker to stay put. The typical log is 1/2 of a 12 inch log ( they are pre-split into 1/2’s at the yard. ) I’ve stalled out on a 3/4 and no way can it do a full 12” round with 3-1/2 tons. The wood is mostly Fir with some Pine and the blade is 4” tall. I have an adapter to put another 4” blade on the other side but haven’t needed it.

 

[John Galt]

Two neighbors share an old hydraulic unit with great success.

DO NOT "log by phone".
DO NOT let someone you don't know well on your land to "log". The damage I've seen done by huge extrication machines would amaze you.

Also, cherished, valuable timber was found to be rotten inside. The specialty logger left it there along with immense soil damage.
Just mentioning it.

Hi. I guess I left the impression that we were going to let some loggers on the land. That is never, ever going to happen. My kids, kids will see these trees a hundred years from now I hope. We bought the place because of the old trees and the trout stream it fronts. Lots of huge glacial deposit boulders would make conventional logging difficult but you are right, they would try anyway and destroy the place just for that “one“ special tree. But trees do fall naturally, 1-2 big ones every other year or so and those are fair game to cut up for firewood - by me or someone I hire.

 

[Kira]

The fourth picture in post #18 is, "Holtz vor den Hutte". It has two meanings.