lawnmower oil

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I purchase a simple push mower...nothing fancy, and it comes with the straight 30 weight oil...the manual says it's ok to use 10W30 below 32 degrees... I want to know if it is ok to use 10W 30 at any temperature in the summer? If I use 10/30 when it's 98 degrees out, will it just consume more oil compared to the straight 30?
 
Yeah it may use a more than than the straight 30. Believe it or not I use Amsoil 5w-30 in my Briggs and Stratton 6.75 hp mower and my Tecumseh 5.5 hp snow blower with 0 problems in the heat and below 0F. Actually, I just run whatever leftover auto oil I have from partial quarts. Just check oil from time to time and you'll be fine.
 
More oil consumption is possible with a multi visc. so check it before you use it each time . I live outside of Redding Kalifornia it gets hot here ,last summer I used 5w/20 yes 5w/20 Motorcraft I did not have to add oil all summer 30 minutes cutting time every 5 to 7 days from the end of march to the end of November . It is a 10 year old push Craftsman with a Techemse motor.
 
Wow, and I thought using Amsoil in mine was innovative!
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I have a Briggs and Stratton on my trim mower and Kawasaki on my rideing mower. Both say to use a straight 30 "OR" a 10W-30 synthetic. "To use a non synthetic 10W-30 will result in increased oil consumption."(the info about 10W-30 synthetic came in the nature of a service bulletin on the Kawasaki engine) The Briggs engine favored the 10W-30 synthetic oil. The Kawasaki engine mower is about 18 years old and still cuts about 1.75 acres weekly. It has never had anything but straight 30 weight in it since the day it came home.
 
I use Valvoline Max Life 10W-30 year round in my Craftsman rider with B&S 18.5 hp as it gets used in summer for yard work & in winter for hauling firewood. That way I don't have to bother with 2 kinds of oil.
My B&S powered push mower & tiller both get Rotella 30W, but they only get used in the summer. I'd wouldn't have a problem using 10W-30 year round in them too if the climate favored year round use...
 
For the small amount that a lawnmower takes, Redline would not be all that expensive. I am running Redline in my motorhome generator which takes 1.5 qts. Next fill will be Amsoil PAO that I happen to have.

My lawnmower is an old beater, so I will try some straight 50 and 60 in it next. Right now it has 40 wt.
 
Using multi-weight is perfectly fine and in fact recommend depending on temperature. My new mower (B&S motor) says that under 40F (but probably more applicable to something like 10F), using straight weight could cause engine damage.... not that I will be mowing in 10F conditions...
 
SM rated car oils have far too little engine protecting anti wear additives.
stick with your inexpensive 30w or 10w30 name brand SJ or SL rated oil off the Walmart discount store shelf and change often. buy several when on sale. lawnmower oil is so easy to change.
every 15 hours is still cheap and the engine will outlast the body and mower components. changing oil often in a small air cooler engine that is used in lawn conditions exposed to dirt and debris with no oil filter is critical
always change before first mowing of year.

blade sharpness, engine cleaning blowout and not hitting hard objects will prolong engine life longer than $10 a qt oil
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: strombony
I purchase a simple push mower...nothing fancy, and it comes with the straight 30 weight oil...the manual says it's ok to use 10W30 below 32 degrees... I want to know if it is ok to use 10W 30 at any temperature in the summer? If I use 10/30 when it's 98 degrees out, will it just consume more oil compared to the straight 30?


5W-40 Shell Rotella Synthetic is perfect for most lawnmowers. You can buy single quarts at Walmart.
 
Originally Posted By: strombony
I purchase a simple push mower...nothing fancy,


when I tried 10w-30 3 years ago the spark plug fouled. Multigrade is good in a pushmower with a small engine because it doesn't get bogged down as easily as straight 30 in thick grass. The heavier gauge aftermarket blade helps alot, too. Last year I used synthetic 10w-30 with no problems, no consumption. This year I'm using synthetic 5w-30. I recommend synthetic multigrade oil for a pushmower with a small engine, especially if you mow a large lawn like I do.
 
I was using 0W-30 syntec in my B&S qantum in Oz summers with no issues at all...currently using M1 0W-40.

I use Caltex straight 30 lawn mower oil in my E30.
 
Originally Posted By: Steelhead
SM rated car oils have far too little engine protecting anti wear additives.
stick with your inexpensive 30w or 10w30 name brand SJ or SL rated oil off the Walmart discount store shelf and change often. buy several when on sale. lawnmower oil is so easy to change.
every 15 hours is still cheap and the engine will outlast the body and mower components. changing oil often in a small air cooler engine that is used in lawn conditions exposed to dirt and debris with no oil filter is critical
always change before first mowing of year.

blade sharpness, engine cleaning blowout and not hitting hard objects will prolong engine life longer than $10 a qt oil


Good info: I used some old Mobil 1 10W-30 I had laying for the first OC of the season.

I didn't realize the newer SM rated oils have far too little engine protecting anti-wear agents. I figured the SM rated oils were the best all around oils you could get.

Frank D
 
So, is the straight 30 wt that comes with the mower good stuff?
It's Briggs & Stratton branded oil or some unknown name.. Or should I avoid that and use a good brand like Pennzoil or Valvoline?
 
strombony: go to Walmart and buy Rotella T SAE-30 at $8.88 a gallon and you will have 5 years of oil changes. That B&S engine will outlast every other part on that mower.
 
[]"So, is the straight 30 wt that comes with the mower good stuff? It's Briggs & Stratton branded oil or some unknown name. Or should I avoid that and use a good brand like Pennzoil or Valvoline?"[/i]

OEM branded oils are at least OK but rarely "special" like they would have you believe. Buy a name brand oil like Shell, Pennzoil, Chevron Delo, etc ... instead.

The rub on XW-30 oils is that they'll easily shear down a full grade before they are drained by most people and when the oil is that thin, it can get consumed quickly. If the unit is run out of oil, it will likely (but not always) seize.

If you check the oil every 10 hours or so and change it once per year, the motor will outlast the rest of the unit.
 
Originally Posted By: jarvk22
strombony: go to Walmart and buy Rotella T SAE-30 at $8.88 a gallon and you will have 5 years of oil changes. That B&S engine will outlast every other part on that mower.


Ditto!
If it's an entry level mower, the wheels will fall off first!
 
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