Lawn leveling advice

With good soil & water a lawn will recover quickly. I scarify/dethatch every fall and my grass looks horrible for a week or so.
 
Any hands on experience would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Not yet, but I watched a few YouTube videos.... Now I get recommended a whole bunch of 'em !! Most of the ones I've seen seem to be tailored towards people that have yards that look like golf courses, not like yours (hear me out) or mine where we just have bumpy sections. I presume some of this is related to using a riding mower of some type ?

The videos all just show people spreading their mixture and using those leveling rakes and no need to re-seed. In my case, I have to put down enough fill that it will kill any grass that's there. Otherwise, you'd have to build it up slowly over many months, I'm guessing.
 
From the experiences of people I know who have planted Bermuda Tif (think golf course greens), you have to top dress repeatedly with sandy loam and water it into the turf. The water washes it into the low spots. This must be done several times (8-10) over a couple year period, then once or twice a year thereafter. Eventually this will give you a ruler flat lawn. With Tif the lawn needs to be ruler flat because it needs to be cut very short (think 1/2") with a reel mower. Bermuda is not what you want to grow where you live, but the method of leveling will be the same.
This is exactly correct. I have a Tifway 419 bermuda hybrid lawn and I'm on yaer two of leveling it. Not even close, it will take me a few yaers to get it right. I use a mix of sand and soil and a lawn level rake. I don't have a reel mower but it would be great to have one.
 
I have ~10-12,000 SQFT to do when I take out the drive and house etc... I have planned on 8 Yards of material. I suspect it will take me a day to do this project, trucking the loads around the various parts of the yard and then dragging them flat with the driveway rake. FWIW, I usually put down 5-6 yards of mulch in the gardens in about 3 or 4 hours.

I am concerned that a Skidsteer will cause more harm than good. I have a mature lawn already that I don't want to tear up. If I was starting with fresh ground I agree completely, with a lawn is it still the same answer?

Just my $0.02

I think you are underestimating how much material you’ll need. 8 yards is less than a quarter inch spread around. I’d have to see how great the grass looks to say if I’d start fresh but if you want it to be smooth, a skid steer is the way to go.
 
This is exactly correct. I have a Tifway 419 bermuda hybrid lawn and I'm on yaer two of leveling it. Not even close, it will take me a few yaers to get it right. I use a mix of sand and soil and a lawn level rake. I don't have a reel mower but it would be great to have one.
I feel your pain! I have to assume that since you live in the Hill Country you have rocks/stones in your yard that are constantly "appearing". Getting a yard like that level and getting all of the rocks out is a LOT of work and takes a LOT of time! You will never be completely rid of the rocks.
When you finally decide to pull the trigger on a reel mower I have some advice. Stay away from McLane or California Trimmer and stay away from 20" and 27" models. Go ahead and pony-up for a 25" Tru-Cut. The 7 blade is better (and not much more money) but a 5 blade should suffice. Don't worry about what engine is on it or it's horsepower. They are very expensive and they are very heavy, but they are well worth it. You will thank me later. The customers that purchased Tru-Cut reel mowers from me were MUCH happier.
To the OP or anyone else living in the north, you don't want to use a reel mower on cool season grasses.
 
I think you are underestimating how much material you’ll need. 8 yards is less than a quarter inch spread around. I’d have to see how great the grass looks to say if I’d start fresh but if you want it to be smooth, a skid steer is the way to go.
Yes I understand and get your point. I have a spreadsheet to calculate my needs (wants?). If it goes well I will order more material. Delivery is relatively cheap here.

FWIW, I have some areas that are fairly decent and would need minimal work, other areas I might be in for 1" or so... Realistically I want to try 8 to 10 yards because if it doesn't work, I'll be racking / brooming it in by hand or modifying the driveway rake to get it to work.

Just my $0.02
 
Well I took the plunge. I started Friday with renting a dump trailer and getting 5 yards of enhanced top soil. It was a 45/45/10 mix of topsoil, compost and sand. I backed the trailer on the yard and basically did a forward driving spread. We then used the driveway rake and the little Deere (LT150) that could to spread it out.

We ended up using 10 yards of material. It looks pretty good I think. I finished up test with aerating and over seeding. I watered it today and now we wait.

Looks like rain tomorrow so that will help. Need water every day for the next week or so.

Just my $0.02
 

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Well it’s been about 2 weeks and I mowed today for the first time. Grass is filling in nicely for the most part. We’ve been fortunate that Mother Nature has decided we needed rain.

It was noticeable smoother mowing today.

Just my $0.02
 

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Start spoon feeding urea it's new grass it's hungry
I've been patiently waiting for the rain to come. It looks like we are good now.

How long should I wait on the new grass before hitting it with some high nitrogen fertilizer? My thought was a month...

Just my $0.02
 
I've been patiently waiting for the rain to come. It looks like we are good now.

How long should I wait on the new grass before hitting it with some high nitrogen fertilizer? My thought was a month...

Just my $0.02
What seed did you put down? Usually after a couple of cuts you can put down a lite dose and I mean lite dose of urea and water in or just before rain.
 
I add a fall fertilizer, Estate 18-22-6, when I plant the seed. 7 days to sprout assuming a rain and mow in 4 weeks. No mow if rain is inconsistent or none.
 
I over seeded with this product from Menards... seed

I was thinking about putting this down in a week or so... fall fertilizer or premium fall fertilizer
Both are slow release.

Just my $0.02
Seed is mostly tall fescue that already germinated you have some Kentucky bluegrass in the mix that's probably just about germinated or close to it. I would cut it frequently and the cheap version of the fall fertilizer you can do a half bag rate just before the next rain then two weeks later another half bag rate. You don't want to push to much fertilizer it's baby grass trying to grow roots also and still waiting for the KBG grass to catch up with the tall fescue. Cutting frequently will get the new grass to tiller, thicken up and not shade the KBG so it can establish.
 
Seed is mostly tall fescue that already germinated you have some Kentucky bluegrass in the mix that's probably just about germinated or close to it. I would cut it frequently and the cheap version of the fall fertilizer you can do a half bag rate just before the next rain then two weeks later another half bag rate. You don't want to push to much fertilizer it's baby grass trying to grow roots also and still waiting for the KBG grass to catch up with the tall fescue. Cutting frequently will get the new grass to tiller, thicken up and not shade the KBG so it can establish.
thanks for the insite @nickaluch!

Just my $0.02
 
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