Landrover series 3 109 stage one v8 oil recommendation?

[Flyingdutchman]

I inherited a series 3 landrover 3.5l v8 from my father. Its what is called a stage one v8 because it was the series 3 last years fitted with a v8 gasoline to compete with the japanese in domestic market. This was funded by the british goverment, stage one being the first financial injection of money.

Ive looked up multiple manuals and websites but cant find a clear awsner on what oil to use. Some recomend 20w50, some 15w40 some 10w50.
Personaly in modern engines i am a thin oil kind of guy. But with this v8 dating from the 60s 70s i am not sure on what to use.

I saw that shell helix 15w40 has
API SN/CF
ACEA A3/B3
specification and i gues 15 would be better on the cold starts. These engines take a while to warm up unlike modern cars.

The 3.5 v8 was also used in many other rover and british leyland vehicles and if i am not mistaken was based more or less on a buick v8.

Does any body have any other oils to recommend due to additives or viscosity etc??

Besides that i am also planning on changing the gearbox oil and both axles.

 

[2EHA]

i had a range rover with the 3.9. used to use bulk 15w40 from work. cam was trashed but a new one was like 80 bucks

back in the day the idea was that 20w50 could be used in both the engine, the 4 speed transmission and married transfer case.

 

[Flyingdutchman]

yeah i read that cams are the weak part on these engines.

 

[Pelican]

I would not worry too much, oils have improved so much since the 60s & 70s that any good brand would do the job

 

[wings&wheels]

Sorry about your Dad. Very, very nice vehicle, but I am biased. Stage 1's are prized here.

A quick search shows oil recommendations for contemporary Rover 3.5's in moderate climates of; 10w-40, 15w-40, 15w-50 and 20w-50. These come from European sources incl. a TR8 factory service manual. You will be OK with any of those.

Me, if the engine was reasonably clean, I would use Mobil1 15w-50. If it was never run on synthetic, I would do one or two short interval oil changes, my SOP whenever I add a new vehicle to the stable.

Pic please.

 

[Spike555]

I had a Disco I with the 4.0, same engine only fuel injected and computer controlled.

5w-40 diesel oil for the win. 250k on the truck total, 100k by me.

5w-40 will provide the cold starts you’re looking for, and the diesel formulation will provide the protection you need for that cam.

Those engines are prone to oil sludge when modern oils are used, the oil drain passages clog, the oil collects in the valve covers and does not drain down into the oil sump fast enough to provide lubrication on the expressway.

Diesel oil will clean out any urgent sludge.

 

[2EHA]

5w-40 diesel oil for the win. 250k on the truck total, 100k by me.

5w-40 will provide the cold starts you’re looking for, and the diesel formulation will provide the protection you need for that cam.

Those engines are prone to oil sludge when modern oils are used, the oil drain passages clog, the oil collects in the valve covers and does not drain down into the oil sump fast enough to provide lubrication on the expressway.

Diesel oil will clean out any urgent sludge.

he’s in europe, nobody uses cj4/e9 hdeos and it’s usually in bulk. the vast majority of european passenger oils are gas and diesel rated.

M1 0w40 has a strong add pack and will clean up sludge much quicker than any 5w40 hdeo.

 

[SR5]

I would use that Shell HX5 15W40, Europe and Australia both get good quality 15W40 PCMOs that perform well and are very affordable. Good thread on that and similar oils here, with an oil formulator joining in.

Shell HX5 15w40 formulation

I already talked about this oil in other threads but i really ask myself how can pour point be so low (-45c) and flash point be so high (245c) for such a cheap oil? These are similar to the SHU 5w40 and even better than most euro grp III 5w40 available. Also it is SN rated and the newer batches...

bobistheoilguy.com

 

[Flyingdutchman]

Sorry about your Dad. Very, very nice vehicle, but I am biased. Stage 1's are prized here.

A quick search shows oil recommendations for contemporary Rover 3.5's in moderate climates of; 10w-40, 15w-40, 15w-50 and 20w-50. These come from European sources incl. a TR8 factory service manual. You will be OK with any of those.

Me, if the engine was reasonably clean, I would use Mobil1 15w-50. If it was never run on synthetic, I would do one or two short interval oil changes, my SOP whenever I add a new vehicle to the stable.

Pic please.

Yeah i think i will probably use the shell helix 15w40 with a couple of short intervals, for example 2000 miles for 2 times. After that see how the oil looks. Its only used for short trips nearby so will take quite a while to already get to the 2000 miles. It probably hast even run 2000 miles in the past 20 years. I have been dailying it on my days that i am off from work. Just to get everything lose and going again.

Now fixed simple things like the windscreen wipers again, would work because of a little corosion on the fuse of the circuit. Things like this is what you get if a vehicle has almost been sitting for 20 years.

This is what she looks like in current state after coming out of storage. I have the original wheels (which steer much lighter/better because no power steering) and after restoration i will paint her in her original colour Peagant blue again. That was a rare v8 only blue colour.

I will also have to see what oils to use for the axles and gearbox/transfer case. The gearbox/transfer case use motoroil.

 

[wings&wheels]

Yeah i think i will probably use the shell helix 15w40 with a couple of short intervals, for example 2000 miles for 2 times. After that see how the oil looks. Its only used for short trips nearby so will take quite a while to already get to the 2000 miles. It probably hast even run 2000 miles in the past 20 years. I have been dailying it on my days that i am off from work. Just to get everything lose and going again.

Now fixed simple things like the windscreen wipers again, would work because of a little corosion on the fuse of the circuit. Things like this is what you get if a vehicle has almost been sitting for 20 years.

This is what she looks like in current state after coming out of storage. I have the original wheels (which steer much lighter/better because no power steering) and after restoration i will paint her in her original colour Peagant blue again. That was a rare v8 only blue colour.

I will also have to see what oils to use for the axles and gearbox/transfer case. The gearbox/transfer case use motoroil.
View attachment 76466

I'd have a hard time restoring the exterior, it is only original once and that shows a lot of history. There are folks around here who pay a premium for that 'look'. I would arrest the further decay as it were, but aside from the proper wheels, I would leave the exterior as it is. You could completely red the interior which would make it more enjoyable for non-enthusiasts to ride in.

I bought both of mine with the intend of doing a complete resto, but winding up doing complete mechanical/electrical and interior rehabs only.

Nice truck, enjoy!

 

[Flyingdutchman]

I'd have a hard time restoring the exterior, it is only original once and that shows a lot of history. There are folks around here who pay a premium for that 'look'. I would arrest the further decay as it were, but aside from the proper wheels, I would leave the exterior as it is. You could completely red the interior which would make it more enjoyable for non-enthusiasts to ride in.

I bought both of mine with the intend of doing a complete resto, but winding up doing complete mechanical/electrical and interior rehabs only.

Nice truck, enjoy!

Mmm your right on that, the car once used to be pageant blue but was rolled green some 30 years ago. I thought of making it original but maybe your right about keeping this look. I also seem to start liking it more and more.
However during this winter i will take the body off. Sand blast the chassis, weld the bad parts. Coat the chassis. Then put the body back on and start work on that.
Like both sills need to be replaced. Both B posts need to be replaced. Both footwells and both vent panel surroundings.

After all that work the new parts also will need to be painted so that might ruin the current look.

 

[wings&wheels]

I didn't pull the body on mine, but I did wirewheel, treat, prime and paint the chassis wherever I could reach (rather painful, literally and figuratively). The sills on mine were creased, and I straightened them as much as could , mostly so they didn't hold mud. Otherwise, I left the chipped and worn paint, the non-matching right front fender, permanent diesel stain below the filler, roof crease, 80's stickers .....

Any new pieces could be rolled a close color. One of the issues with these are the wrinkles and dings that the aluminum gets over time. Unless you take them all out, new paint tends to highlight them.

I like your the way it sits....clean seats for the Wife are probably a good idea though