Kia K5 GT oil suggestions

Joined
May 17, 2009
Messages
18,854
Location
N.H, U.S.A.
I haven't heard any engine sound change, and I do give it a listen outside the vehicle about once a week. All I hear are the injectors firing, and the PCV activating periodically.

Perhaps my ear is just not tuned enough.
Then you are doing good, I guess. You did change the oil correct?
And did you end up putting the correct, new filter on?
Or are you going to do a short OCI on this one to get the "bits" out and change again?
That response was actually to wpod

Please cut open and spread the filter pleats out and take a few photos - some in natural sunlight and maybe some with a flash.
I would ask you to wash down the filter with acetone and reserve and weigh the particulate - but you are not in a lab environment.
-Ken
 
Joined
May 25, 2020
Messages
2,257
You joined in 1/2 way into this thread and you have 37 posts already !

I'm really doing my best to help get this to 20 pages :ROFLMAO:

@SilverFusion2010 has a cartridge style filter, and it's a PITA to remove and install. I like spin-on filters myself, however, we have a similar filter on our Sonata.

The QS Euro 5W-40 looks like an exceptionally stout oil. It's got HTHS of 3.8 and HTFS of 2.67! It's almost as high as Red Line's 5W-30 HTFS. And it only has 5.79% VII. I'm sold on it, because at $19 per 5-quart container, it doesn't get any better than that. I will use it in the 2017 Santa Fe on the next oil change.
 
Joined
Jun 30, 2011
Messages
8,901
Location
Mahzurrah!
The QS Euro 5W-40 looks like an exceptionally stout oil. It's got HTHS of 3.8 and HTFS of 2.67! It's almost as high as Red Line's 5W-30 HTFS. And it only has 5.79% VII. I'm sold on it, because at $19 per 5-quart container, it doesn't get any better than that. I will use it in the 2017 Santa Fe on the next oil change.

That's not all, it's GTL base too. Over 70% IIRC I can't get the SDS to open right now. Went into my Passat Saturday.
 

SilverFusion2010

Thread starter
Joined
Jun 29, 2011
Messages
2,022
Location
Crawfordville FL
Then you are doing good, I guess. You did change the oil correct?
And did you end up putting the correct, new filter on?
Or are you going to do a short OCI on this one to get the "bits" out and change again?
That response was actually to wpod

Please cut open and spread the filter pleats out and take a few photos - some in natural sunlight and maybe some with a flash.
I would ask you to wash down the filter with acetone and reserve and weigh the particulate - but you are not in a lab environment.
-Ken
Yes I did change the oil. I was able to swap for the correct OEM filters yesterday, and I'll most likely change that filter tonight and top back off. Yesterday was a bit chaotic so I couldn't get under the car. I will take some photos for the board.
 
Joined
May 25, 2020
Messages
2,257
Yes I did change the oil. I was able to swap for the correct OEM filters yesterday, and I'll most likely change that filter tonight and top back off. Yesterday was a bit chaotic so I couldn't get under the car. I will take some photos for the board.

After some digging, I finally found the factory fill for your engine: https://www.shell.com/motorist/oils...thetic/shell-helix-ultra-ect-c2-c3-0w-30.html

Yep, it's the same stuff as Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX 0W-30 and Quaker State Euro LX 0W-30. All Hyundai N-Line vehicles ship with this oil from the factory. Since they share the same engines, I assume that it's the same for your KIA K5 GT.

The European manuals for the N-Line vehicles allow for oils ranging from 0W-30 all the way up to 20W-50: https://workupload.com/file/f7H8DDTdjZ9

This statement in the owner's manual for the i30 N holds so much truth, however, you will not find it in the US version:

Engine oil viscosity (thickness) has an effect on fuel economy and cold weather operating (engine start and engine oil flowability). Lower viscosity engine oils can provide better fuel economy and cold weather performance, however, higher viscosity engine oils are required for satisfactory lubrication in hot weather.

The only reason why Hyundai messed up the owner's manual for the US market is because of the EPA fuel economy and pollution requirements. They are more stringent than ever. Historically, Hyundai has done this before, only to issue internal TSBs later on asking dealers to use 5W-30 in N/A engines and 5W-40 in their Turbo Charged 2.0L Theta II engines. The Theta II doesn't like thin oils for several reasons, including fuel dilution and the bearings not being wide enough to compensate for thinner oils. In other markets, Hyundai doesn't even mention 0/5W-20 for a N/A Theta II engine, and it specifically states for the Lamba II engine not to use 5W-20 in hot climates. This, by the way, makes me question my own choice of "wanting to be compliant" and running 0W-20 in NC hot weather in our Sonata. It runs fine. The fuel economy is great. However, if I could get some of that QS/PP LX 0W-30, I would switch to that in a heartbeat.

I hope that this information is useful to you and alleviates any concerns you had about motor oil for your fine vehicle. IMHO, thin ILSAC oil is fine for N/A engines. However, a thicker oil should be used for a performance Turbo engine like yours that carries some beefy approvals. The factory fill oil is fine if you can find it.

[Edit]


It says:
This product is no longer available in the United States.

I think that Shell has pulled this 0W-30 from the US market. I wonder when Hyundai/KIA will get their heads out of their arses and stop confusing people with their oil recommendations for the US market.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Dec 20, 2006
Messages
55
Location
Seattle Washington USA
I have the same 2.5T GDi engine in my 2021 Hyundai Sonata N Line and 0W-30 full synthetic, 6.12 quarts, is specified. I did my first oil change at 1200 miles and installed Mobil1 0W-30 AFE.
 
Joined
May 25, 2020
Messages
2,257
I have the same 2.5T GDi engine in my 2021 Hyundai Sonata N Line and 0W-30 full synthetic, 6.12 quarts, is specified. I did my first oil change at 1200 miles and installed Mobil1 0W-30 AFE.

How do you like the 0W-30 AFE? It's basically from the same lineup as vanilla Mobil 1.
 
Joined
May 25, 2020
Messages
2,257
Sensationalism at its finest.......youtube click bait.
Pure and simple..........I won't be putting any faith or legitimacy into that video.

Well, there is more than one, and the problem is that there is some truth to it. For the 2021 models Hyundai indeed installed a bigger oil pan on the 2.5 NA and Turbo engines, and a different dipstick. Just look up the part numbers. My 2020 Sonata takes 5.5 quarts of oil, the 2021 takes 6.2. The owner manual for mine allows a myriad of motor oils, all the way down to API SL, while the 2021 is very strict. So why did Hyundai make such changes from one year to the next?

Here is another one for you: https://amp-reddit-com.cdn.ampproje...d_vehicle_died_mid/?usqp=mq331AQHKAFQArABIA==

I did my first oil change at ~3400 miles and found a bunch of metal shavings in the oil filter. So much that it took a while to clean the housing of all the shavings. The car was always driven nicely during this time, not once was it reved high or driven hard. Contrast that to @SilverFusion2010 who didn't find any metalic flakes in his oil filter. There is something to this for sure, too bad that we'll have to pay for it.
 
Last edited:
Joined
May 25, 2020
Messages
2,257
That's an old video and Hyundai changed the pistons. Plus my car doesn't use cast pistons anyway, the turbos are hypereutectic

Something seems off about that video. Our Sonata is also GDI+MPI, and so far it's been running fine on M1 EP 0W-20. After 2000 miles, the oil on the dipstick still looks like new, and the shop towel is green instead of brown when I wipe off the dipstick, just like new oil. I'm most likely going to stick with it. M1 EP 0W-20 is like 60%~70% PAO, so what's there not to like 😁
 

SilverFusion2010

Thread starter
Joined
Jun 29, 2011
Messages
2,022
Location
Crawfordville FL
Something seems off about that video. Our Sonata is also GDI+MPI, and so far it's been running fine on M1 EP 0W-20. After 2000 miles, the oil on the dipstick still looks like new, and the shop towel is green instead of brown when I wipe off the dipstick, just like new oil. I'm most likely going to stick with it. M1 EP 0W-20 is like 60%~70% PAO, so what's there not to like 😁

Current plan is to get under the car after I get off work, hopefully I won't be sidetracked again. I know we all want pictures of the oil filter, cause I wanna see it too. I'm almost to 2k miles now. But the first drain of the factory fill was basically just clean oil. It smelled a bit sharp, which I imagine was from the first tank of 87 that the dealer put in, but other than that it was good clean oil. I didn't see any sparkles in the oil, on the drain pan, in the filter, or in the filter housing. I dunno what to tell you. Perhaps they've fixed their processes.
 
Joined
May 25, 2020
Messages
2,257
Current plan is to get under the car after I get off work, hopefully I won't be sidetracked again. I know we all want pictures of the oil filter, cause I wanna see it too. I'm almost to 2k miles now. But the first drain of the factory fill was basically just clean oil. It smelled a bit sharp, which I imagine was from the first tank of 87 that the dealer put in, but other than that it was good clean oil. I didn't see any sparkles in the oil, on the drain pan, in the filter, or in the filter housing. I dunno what to tell you. Perhaps they've fixed their processes.

They changed something from 2020 to 2021 because your motor and the 2.5 N/A now take 6.12 quarts of oil. The oil pan and dipstick part numbers are different. I wish I had taken pictures of that oil filter. I bet it was just aluminum particles that weren't washed out properly. Some were bigger than others. The first oil change was done at ~3400 miles. What oil are you going with this time around?
 

SilverFusion2010

Thread starter
Joined
Jun 29, 2011
Messages
2,022
Location
Crawfordville FL
They changed something from 2020 to 2021 because your motor and the 2.5 N/A now take 6.12 quarts of oil. The oil pan and dipstick part numbers are different. I wish I had taken pictures of that oil filter. I bet it was just aluminum particles that weren't washed out properly. Some were bigger than others. The first oil change was done at ~3400 miles. What oil are you going with this time around?
You know... I haven't been able to decide. It'll be either PP euro 5w-40, the M1 FS 0w-40, or maybe Castrol EDGE 0w-40

EDIT

One other thing for anyone that changes the oil on a 2.5 smartstream turbo... pull the dipstick to prevent vacuum in the block when draining the oil. I never used to worry about this because I didn't have a turbo, so my PCV was always open to let the block pull air in. Not so with the turbo. There's a check valve in there. My choice of a large 15qt drainpan was a good decision yet again cause that oil was glugging everywhere.
 
Joined
May 25, 2020
Messages
2,257
You know... I haven't been able to decide. It'll be either PP euro 5w-40, the M1 FS 0w-40, or maybe Castrol EDGE 0w-40

I'd go Quaker State 5W-40 because it's the most up-to-date formulation (same thing as PP Euro 5W-40). The Walmarts around here still have it in API SN Plus formulation, however, as soon as I can find it in API SP it's going in the 2017 Santa Fe. I have yet to see any true benefit of Castrol EDGE 0W-40. I based my recommendation on other's experience that ran it in Turbo engines, however, so far there is nothing special about it. In the HEMI, Mobil 1 FS 0W-40, after 5000 miles looks almost like new on the dipstick. Granted, I went to a 180F thermostat and did a grille shutter delete. It's very good oil. Mobil 1 (Exxon) and PP/QS (SOPUS) are pretty much number one.
 
Top