Kia K5 GT oil suggestions

Looks like a nice oil. I'll add it to the list. The 10w-30 is getting the job done just fine, I'm not noticing any bogging or lack of power once warmed up. I can't speak for WOT when it's cold because I don't do that...

I've actually been mostly babying the throttle because I want to see how far I can push the fuel economy for this tank of gas. Right now I'm averaging 33.6 and on a trip to the beach Friday, I reset the gauge right as I left my neighborhood and when I got to the beach the MPG was up to 39.4. Bloody amazing for an engine that can make 290hp. As soon as I hit traffic it fell right off and now I'm around 33-34 MPG with about 60/40 highway/city.

But back to oil. The M1 HM 10w-30 is running fine. I'll leave that in until 5k and then I think I'll try the M1 FS 0w-40 because it's on rebate, and then I'll give that QS 5w-40 a try and possibly the Castrol EDGE 0w-40.

Right now my biggest problem is finding the dang filters.
 
You won't notice any difference in drag between M1 HM 10W30 vs another oil in your location.
I ran a year interval on my truck with PP 10W30 in '19/'20 and on a ski trip up North, started her up in -22*F and didn't notice a difference between the typical 5W20 or 30 I run.

BTW - we test drove a new 2.5 K5. It was punchy! Definitely quicker than our Optima SXL. It had a very nice ride too and the interior was very comfortable.
 
YogiTheCat said:
I have owned several KIAs and Hyundais, and that's a statement without merit. Never had any engine issues. We had a Sorento with the 3.8L that we ran whatever 5W-20 was on sale from 2006 until 2013. Never had a single issue with the motor. And that's just one example. Oil was never an issue for these KIA/Hyundai engines. Lack of maintenance/neglect was.
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I was linking the fact you looked at the SDS and said it was unimpressive.

Safety data sheet + unimpressive - which are YOUR comments
the me making a little and obviously BAD joke.
which allowed the subconscious "exploding KIA engine" fear to surface

I apologize.
 
Zaedock said:
You won't notice any difference in drag between M1 HM 10W30 vs another oil in your location.
I ran a year interval on my truck with PP 10W30 in '19/'20 and on a ski trip up North, started her up in -22*F and didn't notice a difference between the typical 5W20 or 30 I run.

BTW - we test drove a new 2.5 K5. It was punchy! Definitely quicker than our Optima SXL. It had a very nice ride too and the interior was very comfortable.
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I'm really enjoying mine. Goes fast when needed and economical when speed isn't priority.
 
SilverFusion2010 said:
But back to oil. The M1 HM 10w-30 is running fine. I'll leave that in until 5k and then I think I'll try the M1 FS 0w-40 because it's on rebate, and then I'll give that QS 5w-40 a try and possibly the Castrol EDGE 0w-40.
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The main benefit of a Euro oil for a turbocharged engine, aside from the "meatier" viscosity, is the elevated levels of ZDDP, detergents, dispersants, and general anti-wear additives. Higher ZDDP keeps your turbo bearing happy, trust me. Even low SAPS oil like Mobil 1 ESP have elevated levels of ZDDP, especially since that's what Porsche uses for 10K / 1-year OCIs at their dealerships (either 5W-30 for their Turbo SUVs and sedans or ESP X3 0W-40 for the 911 Turbo and such). I don't know how they pull off high ZDDP low SAPS oils, but they do it. That's what your engine was designed for as well. Unfortunately, the people who write the owner's manual are disconnected from the engineering staff, as they have to satisfy EPA requirements for the US. Genesis vehicles and even the Veloster N clearly specifies 0W-30 ACEA C2 motor oil, which is a European specification. But hey, at least you didn't put cheap 0W-20 in your 2.5T, like I've seen a guy do on the HyundaForums with his $40K 2021 Santa Fe Limited Turbo. He said he couldn't find 0W-30 at Walmart (I guess he missed M1 0W-30 AFE or didn't wanna pay for it) and so he thought that 0W-20 should be good enough.

ARCOgraphite said:
I was linking the fact you looked at the SDS and said it was unimpressive.
Click to expand...

I didn't say that, @JavierH19 said that.
 
YogiTheCat said:
The main benefit of a Euro oil for a turbocharged engine, aside from the "meatier" viscosity, is the elevated levels of ZDDP, detergents, dispersants, and general anti-wear additives. Higher ZDDP keeps your turbo bearing happy, trust me. Even low SAPS oil like Mobil 1 ESP have elevated levels of ZDDP, especially since that's what Porsche uses for 10K / 1-year OCIs at their dealerships (either 5W-30 for their Turbo SUVs and sedans or ESP X3 0W-40 for the 911 Turbo and such). I don't know how they pull off high ZDDP low SAPS oils, but they do it. That's what your engine was designed for as well. Unfortunately, the people who write the owner's manual are disconnected from the engineering staff, as they have to satisfy EPA requirements for the US. Genesis vehicles and even the Veloster N clearly specifies 0W-30 ACEA C2 motor oil, which is a European specification. But hey, at least you didn't put cheap 0W-20 in your 2.5T, like I've seen a guy do on the HyundaForums with his $40K 2021 Santa Fe Limited Turbo. He said he couldn't find 0W-30 at Walmart (I guess he missed M1 0W-30 AFE or didn't wanna pay for it) and so he thought that 0W-20 should be good enough.



I didn't say that, @JavierH19 said that.
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I'll try one of the Euro oils next like I said. I know you don't like my M1 HM 10w-30 lol. It's a good oil, but it's not as strong as the euro oils because it meets SP. But I don't have to worry about LSPI with this oil either. I really don't want to find out the hard way that LSPI is in fact a problem with this engine. This engine model is new, so even if they designed it well, the unknown unknowns haven't shown their face yet.
 
SilverFusion2010 said:
I'll try one of the Euro oils next like I said. I know you don't like my M1 HM 10w-30 lol. It's a good oil, but it's not as strong as the euro oils because it meets SP. But I don't have to worry about LSPI with this oil either. I really don't want to find out the hard way that LSPI is in fact a problem with this engine. This engine model is new, so even if they designed it well, the unknown unknowns haven't shown their face yet.
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LSPI is an issue for sub 2L turbo engines, and only certain ones, like Ford and GM. Either way, Castol EDGE 0W-40 is LSPI friendly, but the friendliest is Quaker State Euro 5W-40 which is API SN Plus, and you can get it at Walmart. Or order M1 ESP 5W-30 from Amazon, it's not that expensive.
 
@SilverFusion2010 this is the Mobil 1 lubricants guide. You can see the amount of Zinc and Phosphorus in each oil, as well as other information: https://www.mobil.com/lubricants/-/...hash=B478EACF4BAC5D7B9A3D33763B53E67669592EE5

FYI - Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-30 is not a terrible choice, however, for the same money, or less, you could do so much better, like QS Euro 5W-40 for example. If I'm not mistaken, that QS Euro is what a lot of Ferraris run on, except that it comes either in a nice Pennzoil or Shell Helix bottle.
 
YogiTheCat said:
@SilverFusion2010 this is the Mobil 1 lubricants guide. You can see the amount of Zinc and Phosphorus in each oil, as well as other information: https://www.mobil.com/lubricants/-/...hash=B478EACF4BAC5D7B9A3D33763B53E67669592EE5

FYI - Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-30 is not a terrible choice, however, for the same money, or less, you could do so much better, like QS Euro 5W-40 for example. If I'm not mistaken, that QS Euro is what a lot of Ferraris run on, except that it comes either in a nice Pennzoil or Shell Helix bottle.
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It's on the list. I finally got the correct oil filters from the dealer. They come with the filter, gaskets top and bottom, and a new crush washer for the drain bolt. $10.50 + Tax

I might try the QS Euro next, as SN+ is allowed in my OM.
 
SilverFusion2010 said:
Just bought a new Kia K5 GT. Lots of fun, best car I've ever owned.

2.5L turbo making 290HP. Manual says 0w-30 and synthetic oil only, SN+ or SP or GF-6. Manual also says 6k normal service and 3k severe service change intervals.

I'll be doing 3-4k changes I think, and I'm going to use M1 10w-30 HM unless the board can convince me otherwise. I'm in Florida and have absolutely no need for 0w or 5w. I feel this little turbo will benefit from oil that's a touch thicker.

let the opinions fly...
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If it's 0W-30, I know the VW Golf R requires that as well with a 504/507 spec. Honestly dude, if it's good enough for Porsche, Mercedes, VW, it's surely good enough for your Kia engine. Just pick any Euro oil and you'll be golden.
 
BurntMusic said:
If it's 0W-30, I know the VW Golf R requires that as well with a 504/507 spec. Honestly dude, if it's good enough for Porsche, Mercedes, VW, it's surely good enough for your Kia engine. Just pick any Euro oil and you'll be golden.
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That is where I'm looking currently. Some of the Xw-40 are on the list to try. Takes time to put miles on the car. Still haven't figured out her name.
 
VW "requiring" a grade for one of their approvals is silly. For one thing the approval is not dependent on the grade but on the HT/HS which is a better indicator of performance than grade could ever be.
 
wpod said:
Why is that and do you know how an engine "breaks"in.
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You have a strainer and a filter. We are not wearing in and driving air cooled VW Beetles.
Yes. I am a NIASE Master and a Mechanical engineer. I am Old.
Owned over 70 cars, most new, never had early OC help me out wear in the engine without problems.

I read the engine sounds and change when appropriate.

On my recent car it was 2k.

on my previous car it could have gone longer than 5K
 
ARCOgraphite said:
You have a strainer and a filter. We are not wearing in and driving air cooled VW Beetles.
Yes. I am a NIASE Master and a Mechanical engineer. I am Old.
Owned over 70 cars, most new, never had early OC help me out wear in the engine without problems.

I read the engine sounds and change when appropriate.

On my recent car it was 2k.

on my previous car it could have gone longer than 5K
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I haven't heard any engine sound change, and I do give it a listen outside the vehicle about once a week. All I hear are the injectors firing, and the PCV activating periodically.

Perhaps my ear is just not tuned enough.
 
I strongly believe that if we try hard enough, we can get to 20 pages in no time 🤣
 
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