Just like that, my bad fuel dilution problem is gone.

Joined
Oct 15, 2011
Messages
516
Location
East TN
My hyundai sonata 2.0t se 2011 is now at 120k miles. Orange dipstick, 5.5 qt sump, 2 catch cans either side of pcv system , stage 2 tune, just over 300 hp to wheels with nitroethane , mtbe, and other octane enhancers. I run redline 0w-30 as an adjunct to all my other oils. Always a Franken brew. Never run straight redline before. Still have black oil after 3000 miles and gasoline smell after dump @ 5 k miles. Runs like a beast. I am trying to blow it up before the ntsb lawsuit Agreement runs out. No dice. Thick oil in summer, 40s , thinner in winter 30s. Ymmv, but aggressive 3500 mi oci have stood me in good stead from 1k to 65k, 4200 mi oci to 110 k and now 5k changes have kept it alive. All oils have been hto.06 , gm 4781, porshe a40 etc. The e63s will get similar treatment.
 
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SammyChevelleTypeS3

$60 site donor 2022
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I think the only Honda spec I usually see is HTO-1 was is pretty outdated now. I'm not even sure what else they have? Do the manuals call for that still or just a standard spec to be met?
Been in Honda cars going on 25 years and never really paid attention to what exactly they spec in the manuals. I guess cause I go by the oil weight specified on the oil cap and I know I exceed what manufacturers call for. So I look in our 2018 Accord manual and its too funny how they seem to be a bit vague. Directly from the 2018 Honda Accord Owner's Guide Book.
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RECOMMENDED OIL:
* Honda Genuine Motor Oil or * Premium grade 0w20 detergent oil with an API certification Seal on container.
The seal indicates the oil is energy conserving and meets the API's latest requirements.
Use Honda Genuine Motor Oil or another commercial engine oil of suitable viscosity for the ambient temperature.
You may also use synthetic motor oil if it is labeled with the API Certification Seal and is of the specified viscosity grade.
WHAT? Sounds like just what I thought I remember reading or hearing talk of. The Honda Genuine Motor Oil they push is a
synthetic blend if synthetic at all? If they take the time to point out "You may also use synthetic motor oil"
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

They actually have the "star" stamp you see on the oil bottles in the book except it is a generic stamp that simply says
API Certified / For Gas engines.
I was surprised to see on the Schaeffer's Oil bottle label something I have not seen on any other bottles. This oil exceeds API Service Class SP,
Resource Conserving. ILSAC GF-6 GM Dexos1 / Gen 2: Ford, GM. Chrysler, Toyota, Honda and most OEM gasoline engine oil specifications.
Have not seen Toyota on many and never Honda listed on any oil bottles. I think Toyota is listed on Castrol?
 
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Joined
Nov 16, 2002
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35,086
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NJ
Yea, but MoleKule said his only thinking is the Ester could be sealing the rings better. Who knows????
I've heard this theory before. I believe Terry said something similar in that some oils, for reasons beyond me, form a better piston/ring seal.

Without a UOA before/after, not much else can be said.
 
Joined
Dec 24, 2021
Messages
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I joined this forum strictly for fuel dilution issues. I learned about this from Scotty Kilmer with his do not buy this honda engine post on youtube. Too Late.

My car is a honda clarity, which I just recently purchased as a CPO. I do almost all my driving in electric mode, I charge at home. Honda stated they changed the oil prior to selling it. Since I drive the car in electric mode and the engine is not operating so I prolonged my oil change. Usually I will just change it right away, but since my car isn't using the engine I didn't have any urgency.

I just did my oil change and I was looking for this problem and my god the oil smelled like so much gas. Honestly I feel like maybe 4 or more qts came out, it was quite a bit of oil. I think my car is only 3.2 qt's without the oil filter, 3.5 with. I am fairly concerned that even with about 400 miles of driving with the engine the car is having a crazy dilution issue.

The only other thing may be that honda didn't change the oil and it's old oil. Not sure if the attkinson cycle is a factor, if the other 1.5's use that as I am told that's my engines process. I use only 91, the most premium fuel available, and I am shocked to see this much contamination.

Trying to solve this issue, if it is an issue, and waiting for this guy to post some results to see if any of this is accurate. Also when I do my next oil change I will be able to see if the oil smells like gas. Also will start to do some testing on my oil to see what's going on. Not even sure of OCI of my vehicle when my vehicle is primarily running in electric.
 
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Poor Man's GDI Engine Oil Recipe : Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W30 (4 qrts.) + Castrol Magnatec 5W30 ( 1 qrt.) . Low VII's in the Quaker State with a nice shot of Moly . The Castrol Magnatec helps with start up protection .
 
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Oct 30, 2010
Messages
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Location
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I joined this forum strictly for fuel dilution issues. I learned about this from Scotty Kilmer with his do not buy this honda engine post on youtube. Too Late.

My car is a honda clarity, which I just recently purchased as a CPO. I do almost all my driving in electric mode, I charge at home. Honda stated they changed the oil prior to selling it. Since I drive the car in electric mode and the engine is not operating so I prolonged my oil change. Usually I will just change it right away, but since my car isn't using the engine I didn't have any urgency.

I just did my oil change and I was looking for this problem and my god the oil smelled like so much gas. Honestly I feel like maybe 4 or more qts came out, it was quite a bit of oil. I think my car is only 3.2 qt's without the oil filter, 3.5 with. I am fairly concerned that even with about 400 miles of driving with the engine the car is having a crazy dilution issue.

The only other thing may be that honda didn't change the oil and it's old oil. Not sure if the attkinson cycle is a factor, if the other 1.5's use that as I am told that's my engines process. I use only 91, the most premium fuel available, and I am shocked to see this much contamination.

Trying to solve this issue, if it is an issue, and waiting for this guy to post some results to see if any of this is accurate. Also when I do my next oil change I will be able to see if the oil smells like gas. Also will start to do some testing on my oil to see what's going on. Not even sure of OCI of my vehicle when my vehicle is primarily running in electric.

Soooo… you’re mostly going based off of just smell alone??? 🤨 You didn’t even properly catch and measure the amount of Lube that came out to see if it was indeed more then the refill amount (assuming it wasn’t originally overfilled by the dealer and that it might actually be fuel contamination that is rising the oil level)?

Sounds like an oil analysis is needed to properly diagnose the concern.

If the engine barely turns on and doesn’t have enough time to get up to operating temp to even have a chance to burn off the cold start rich fuel condition, then what do you expect? No oil will magically eat away the fuel. 😒
 
Joined
Dec 24, 2021
Messages
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Soooo… you’re mostly going based off of just smell alone??? 🤨 You didn’t even properly catch and measure the amount of Lube that came out to see if it was indeed more then the refill amount (assuming it wasn’t originally overfilled by the dealer and that it might actually be fuel contamination that is rising the oil level)?

Sounds like an oil analysis is needed to properly diagnose the concern.

If the engine barely turns on and doesn’t have enough time to get up to operating temp to even have a chance to burn off the cold start rich fuel condition, then what do you expect? No oil will magically eat away the fuel. 😒
I still got it inside the oil catch pan, not sure if it's contaminated or if I can still send it in. I'm not a professional, to be upfront I have not looked or know a good company or the process of doing UOA. I could just smell it when the oil was coming out, also with my gloves got some on my fingers to take a closer smell where I noticed it.

So what you are saying is the cold start or cold engine as it basically stays since it's used intermittently will cause further dilution? I am trying to learn here man, please excuse my ignorance.

My only two concerns is that when the engine turns on it sounds like it's on a high rev/rpm, not sure what starting rpms are on the motor. I know most hondas are like 750, it maybe the same. But as we know when the engine is cold the RPMs are higher, the engine kicks on at that higher rpm and then is further pushed by acceleration. With the oil diluted I feel like it makes it further possible to increase wear, please correct me if im wrong.

And again, the thing is the engine is using such little miles in the grand scheme of things not sure if I should even worry or not. Just paranoid.

@ChrisD46 What's the the rich mans formula. Not sure how well the honda oil fares against the situation, I personally use amsoil signature series on all my cars. That's the oil that just went in
 
Joined
Mar 31, 2019
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Location
Minnesota
I still got it inside the oil catch pan, not sure if it's contaminated or if I can still send it in. I'm not a professional, to be upfront I have not looked or know a good company or the process of doing UOA. I could just smell it when the oil was coming out, also with my gloves got some on my fingers to take a closer smell where I noticed it.

So what you are saying is the cold start or cold engine as it basically stays since it's used intermittently will cause further dilution? I am trying to learn here man, please excuse my ignorance.

My only two concerns is that when the engine turns on it sounds like it's on a high rev/rpm, not sure what starting rpms are on the motor. I know most hondas are like 750, it maybe the same. But as we know when the engine is cold the RPMs are higher, the engine kicks on at that higher rpm and then is further pushed by acceleration. With the oil diluted I feel like it makes it further possible to increase wear, please correct me if im wrong.

And again, the thing is the engine is using such little miles in the grand scheme of things not sure if I should even worry or not. Just paranoid.

@ChrisD46 What's the the rich mans formula. Not sure how well the honda oil fares against the situation, I personally use amsoil signature series on all my cars. That's the oil that just went in
Your engine is probably fine, you've changed the oil, old stuff smelled of gas, now just figure out the interval your going to be comfortable with and when your checking the level in between oil changes if it smells of gas then rethink your interval. Many have bought cars and didn't know what they were getting into, but here your learning and that'll be the best measure for the future longevity of serviceability. As long as everything seems good and no check engine light just take good measure to keep the fuel dilution to a minimum, and know the terms of any CPO warranty if it ever come down to needing a repair.

I should mention the higher RPM at start-up is something that all my Toyota's have done, and now I have a Kia and that does it too, so it may be what the Honda does too, but I can't tell you that having never owned one. When the engine gets near normal operational temperature the idle should slow to normal, which I think is around 700 rpm on mine. If the motor is a direct injection I'd run a good injector cleaner through it regularly because of the injector being in the combustion chamber, though I never owned one of them either.
 
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Joined
Oct 15, 2011
Messages
516
Location
East TN
Your engine is probably fine, you've changed the oil, old stuff smelled of gas, now just figure out the interval your going to be comfortable with and when your checking the level in between oil changes if it smells of gas then rethink your interval. Many have bought cars and didn't know what they were getting into, but here your learning and that'll be the best measure for the future longevity of serviceability. As long as everything seems good and no check engine light just take good measure to keep the fuel dilution to a minimum, and know the terms of any CPO warranty if it ever come down to needing a repair.

I should mention the higher RPM at start-up is something that all my Toyota's have done, and now I have a Kia and that does it too, so it may be what the Honda does too, but I can't tell you that having never owned one. When the engine gets near normal operational temperature the idle should slow to normal, which I think is around 700 rpm on mine. If the motor is a direct injection I'd run a good injector cleaner through it regularly because of the injector being in the combustion chamber, though I never owned one of them either.
Hyundai says it's to light off the cat quicker, so blame Cali again.
 
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