Just like that, my bad fuel dilution problem is gone.

Mainia

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I saw a LSPI whitepaper somewhere and they showed where a high Ester oil had the largest and quit drastic id I remember right LSPI reduction factor (vs each) over Moly, CA and Mag. You guys may know I am going off looking at it 3 years ago. I am running a low CA (1650) compared to some oils having 2,700 to 3,000+ I also strictly run 93 octane. I am not worried about LSPI.
 
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Mainia

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Hey Jet, How does your dealership handle tunes on cars? I assume Hyundai doesn't have tune hunting software that Audi/VW has. They sniff for flash counts and send that info back to Audi/VW servers. Even an empolyee can't bypass the sniff when he plugs into the car.

I would assume tunes/warranty are more prevalent now with Veloster N's. I know some dealers look the otherway as much as they can and some I heard flag the VIN and are ****s.
 

Mainia

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Also, have you done any 7-Speed DCT clutch unit yet? I am wondering if you change over a full clutch unit and you use the Hyundai "clutch actuator jig" to re-adjust it back to a new clutch position. With that jig have you guys seen it to be 100% right on the the first re-adjustment or do you have to bring the car back and try for it on the 2nd try?
 
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Hey Jet, How does your dealership handle tunes on cars? I assume Hyundai doesn't have tune hunting software that Audi/VW has. They sniff for flash counts and send that info back to Audi/VW servers. Even an empolyee can't bypass the sniff when he plugs into the car.

I would assume tunes/warranty are more prevalent now with Veloster N's. I know some dealers look the otherway as much as they can and some I heard flag the VIN and are ****s.

don't ask, don't tell... We can check the software on some ecu's but the results are inconsistent at best.

If a tune causes issues, we inform the customer to put it right as it won't likely get fixed under warranty again. Doesn't happen a lot though.
 
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Also, have you done any 7-Speed DCT clutch unit yet? I am wondering if you change over a full clutch unit and you use the Hyundai "clutch actuator jig" to re-adjust it back to a new clutch position. With that jig have you guys seen it to be 100% right on the the first re-adjustment or do you have to bring the car back and try for it on the 2nd try?

Yes , plenty of them. I use a caliper and measure it though as the jig is inaccurate. Haven't had to do it twice yet unless the actuator was worn
 

OVERKILL

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I saw a LSPI whitepaper somewhere and they showed where a high Ester oil had the largest and quit drastic id I remember right LSPI reduction factor (vs each) over Moly, CA and Mag. You guys may know I am going off looking at it 3 years ago. I am running a low CA (1650) compared to some oils having 2,700 to 3,000+ I also strictly run 93 octane. I am not worried about LSPI.

This is a good read on it from Infineum:

Shell filed a patent on mitigating LSPI with modification to gasoline formulation:

Here's an Infineum article that touches on ZDDP reducing LSPI:

On esters (from Lubrizol):

Relevant quotes:
The ability of a base oil to act as a solvent (i.e. solvency) may be a contributing factor in increasing the frequency of LSPI events during operation of a direct fuel-injected engine. Base oil solvency may be measured as the ability of un-additized base oil to act as a solvent for polar constituents. In general, base oil solvency decreases as the base oil group moves from Group Ito Group IV (PAO). That is, solvency of base oil may be ranked as follows for oil of a given kinematic viscosity: Group I>Group II>Group II>Group IV. Base oil solvency also decreases as the viscosity increases within a base oil group; base oil of low viscosity tends to have better solvency than similar base oil of higher viscosity. Base oil solvency may be measured by aniline point (ASTM D611).

Ester base fluids, which are characterized as Group V oils, have high levels of solvency as a result of their polar nature. Addition of low levels (typically less than 10 wt %) of ester to a lubricating composition may significantly increase the resulting solvency of the base oil mixture. Esters may be broadly grouped into two categories: synthetic and natural. An ester base fluid would have a kinematic viscosity at 100° C. suitable for use in an engine oil lubricant, such as between 2 cSt and 30 cSt, or from 3 cSt to 20 cSt, or even from 4 cSt to 12 cSt.

Which is supported by this presentation:

Relevant slide:
Screen Shot 2021-01-24 at 3.34.39 PM.png
 
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Not entirely true. SN Plus oils help mitigate LSPI. Current GDI/TGDI engines have logic in the ECM that changes fuel/ignition timing in situations where LSPI may occur. Most OEM’s control and try to prevent LSPI by injecting more fuel into the cylinders to help curb LSPI. This lowers fuel economy and contributes to fuel dilution. If an engine oil is helping to keep abnormal combustion at bay, the ECM doesn’t have to resort to changing fuel/ignition timing nor dump more fuel into the cylinders.

Agreed, oils can definitely alter LSPI. But an oil mitigating LSPI through chemistry is vastly different than one stopping mechanical tendencies due to engine design, to dilute oil. Not doubting what the OP experienced. Just not sure there's causation here between Red Line = no more dilution.
 
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I have a 16 Civic Coupe with the oil diluting 1.5. Sometimes the oil level rises over the OCI, Sometimes it doesn't. I generally use Castrol 5w-30, one time I used a frankenbrew, so I dont think in my case the oil is the difference. I don't see how it could be. Honda 1.5 run very cool and it takes forever to come completely up to temp. Weather, trip length and some unknown mojo appears to be at play.
I always run Shell 87 gas, very nice station right by my house that is in constant price war with Walmart and Speedway so I see it as better gas at usually the same price.
I've noticed over the last few 5k oci the diluting has lessened. Why idk but it certainly isn't the oil or fuel.
According to what I've read the slow to heat up cylinder walls make the fuel air mixture condense and drain past the rings and into the sump.
 
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I've read and/or somewhat experienced (perceived?) that some oils reduce noise, ticks or taps ... and some oils burn less or more ... there are even claims of ivd reduction (Valvoline?) ...

However, iirc, this is the first time I'm reading on the internet or bitog that oil brand can have a significant impact on fuel dilution amount (lspi or not) ... :alien:

Until further notice: (n)
False conclusion.
 

Mainia

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I am now getting some fuel dilution. Minnesota has had a 2.5 week spell of below zero temps ( 20 below this morning) and I am doing 5 to 6 short trips daily back and forth from a new warehouse we are leasing 2 buildings away for the past weeks. My normal daily drive to and from work is less then 10 minutes of hwy. About half way the engine gets to full water temp per gauge. I have raised about 1/8+ qt of oil. Normally I would be a good 1/2 qt PLUS and would have to pump out oil by now. When I used my car in sub zero times before I would have to pump out oil twice in an oil change interval. I have not pumped anything on this oil change since it has been so good up till this sub zero multi week event.

This oil will be sent to Polaris Labs and bumped up to the advanced test when it's time. From experense, I would say even if I made a long trip and added dropping a gear 7th to 6th gear, I won't be able to get rid of this dilution fully. There are heavy and light parts to the fuel that getinto your oil and you can flash off one of them, which one I would have to hunt the papers. I will leave that to one of you that may know it off the top of your head. I really wanted to test the oil when I had no raise in oil. Now I bet I will still have over 5% from my experience.

No big deal though, this oil, almost zero rise in oil most of the time, even in summer to above sub zero weather in winter. I will take that any day from my normal 3/4 plus scenario I was experiencing for 2 years. It is a small "Hyundai" GDI turbo car, you just are not going to get NA port injected oil levels. The thing is, even at the high levels I did not have wear, so after time fuel dilution for me and this car was no longer a worry. Just change the oil out at 3,000 miles in winter and all was fine. I think I will push this oil change out till 3,500 miles as I have not tested this Redline yet for wear, just Mobil 1 ESP for multi wear tests to look for a pattern.
 

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You

This is not necessarily related to your post here, I am not going to answer every conspiracy poster. All I know is what I see, I even PMed MolaKule on it during the summer. I was surprised as hejj. You guys can go all negative and conspiracy on this if it makes feel better. I am just stating what I see. You guys dig in to my wording as part of this conspiracy, WOW. YAWN.

RamFan, It is more then 5% as the test goes way down on accuracy after that the told me. That is why they use 5^ I guess.I assume it is in the 7% area.

Maybe I should bring in someone to write a whitepaper on this, so it is not a conspiracy.

I saw a LSPI whitepaper somewhere and they showed where a high Ester oil had the largest and quit drastic id I remember right LSPI reduction factor (vs each) over Moly, CA and Mag. You guys may know I am going off looking at it 3 years ago. I am running a low CA (1650) compared to some oils having 2,700 to 3,000+ I also strictly run 93 octane. I am not worried about LSPI.

I have a 16 Civic Coupe with the oil diluting 1.5. Sometimes the oil level rises over the OCI, Sometimes it doesn't. I generally use Castrol 5w-30, one time I used a frankenbrew, so I dont think in my case the oil is the difference. I don't see how it could be. Honda 1.5 run very cool and it takes forever to come completely up to temp. Weather, trip length and some unknown mojo appears to be at play.
I always run Shell 87 gas, very nice station right by my house that is in constant price war with Walmart and Speedway so I see it as better gas at usually the same price.
I've noticed over the last few 5k oci the diluting has lessened. Why idk but it certainly isn't the oil or fuel.
According to what I've read the slow to heat up cylinder walls make the fuel air mixture condense and drain past the rings and into the sump.
I found I have less fuel dilution in wife's 1.5 Di Turbo Honda when we DO NOT used the ECON setting. We always start up with ECON off and if we head down the road for long drive we will put in ECON mode at a red light or a stop once she is warmed up from running a while. I am still doing much daily research on the whole L.S.P.I and oil dilution. Latest trail has brought me to a company I respect a great deal called: Joe Gibbs Racing.
They do make products for non race applications. Have not bought any of their "boutique / niche or snake oils" YET. :) But they got me on the hook and I am investigating and reading up on them as much as I can. I have great respect for some of their engineers. + the backgrounds of some of their specialist. https://drivenracingoil.com/c-1389348-shop-by-product-direct-injection-oils.html
P.S. Can anyone tell me why I can find almost ZERO oil that puts Approved for Honda Motor Company engines as they do for Chrysler / GM or Ford? I see them listed on several brands. Does Honda want to sell their oil ONLY which I have read is a pretty poor choice. Even if they do I do not see how they can or would want to stop oil companies from listing or being approved for their cars? :unsure:
 
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In a similar vein my car appears to burn no oil, and I show zero movement over an OCI. That said, my oil smells pretty strongly of gasoline during a change. Way more than any port injected car I've owned for sure. I have to assume I'm pushing in the same amount or very close to exactly what I'm consuming. GM 1.4L LE2 (SGE) TGDI with a tune on about 21 - 22lbs of boost. 93 octane top tier fuel used only (Mobil). Car has had the same zero movement on the stick since new. I've run a lot of Castrol, M1 for the first time right now, and the first 4 changes or so were on dealer ACDelco oil back in 2018.

I've never done a change with more than 5000 miles on it, and try to change at about 3500 since I only have a 4.25qt sump. I'll be moving to Ravenol DXG for my next change. I'd move to a 0w-40 oil, but my engine is the poster child for LSPI, and the oil formulas I like don't usually come in a 40 weight. I don't think any engines get as bashed from LSPI as the 1.4T in the Cruze, and 1.5T in the Malibu do, so I try to take every precaution.
 
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I found I have less fuel dilution in wife's 1.5 Di Turbo Honda when we DO NOT used the ECON setting. We always start up with ECON off and if we head down the road for long drive we will put in ECON mode at a red light or a stop once she is warmed up from running a while. I am still doing much daily research on the whole L.S.P.I and oil dilution. Latest trail has brought me to a company I respect a great deal called: Joe Gibbs Racing.
They do make products for non race applications. Have not bought any of their "boutique / niche or snake oils" YET. :) But they got me on the hook and I am investigating and reading up on them as much as I can. I have great respect for some of their engineers. + the backgrounds of some of their specialist. https://drivenracingoil.com/c-1389348-shop-by-product-direct-injection-oils.html
P.S. Can anyone tell me why I can find almost ZERO oil that puts Approved for Honda Motor Company engines as they do for Chrysler / GM or Ford? I see them listed on several brands. Does Honda want to sell their oil ONLY which I have read is a pretty poor choice. Even if they do I do not see how they can or would want to stop oil companies from listing or being approved for their cars? :unsure:
I think the only Honda spec I usually see is HTO-1 was is pretty outdated now. I'm not even sure what else they have? Do the manuals call for that still or just a standard spec to be met?
 
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