Just like that, my bad fuel dilution problem is gone.

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I bought a 10 pack of tests from Polaris Labs before the car was even in the driveway. My car is a lowered 2018 Hyundai Kona AWD 1.6T. I short trip summer and winter, I use a car starter year round

I use a car starter most of the time.. except when I push start.:ROFLMAO:

joking aside these UOAs you keep referring to .. are they posted anywhere?
 

Mainia

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I use a car starter most of the time.. except when I push start.:ROFLMAO:

joking aside these UOAs you keep referring to .. are they posted anywhere?

I start it roughly 3 minutes before I walk to the garage, or wait a couple minutes before I go. I have to strap in every time, so there is a minute.

No, I don't think so, but maybe. Search for it. What you think for this conspiracy thing, I really don't want to waste my time. I will post this next one for all the non conspiracy people.
 
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So two things.

You're saying you gained 3/4 of a quart. Meaning 3/4 of a quart of gas was getting added to your oil through dilution. That's a ton. Way higher than what 5% dilution would be responsible for.

Secondly, have I completely missed something here on BITOG? How is an oil going to have any effect on the amount of fuel getting pumped into said oil. Not being smart, I'm genuinely curious. No one here has asked that yet so I feel like I've missed a big piece of information. Oil to combat dilution, sure. But to prevent dilution. That's a whole different ball game.
FWIW, Polaris cuts off fuel dilution reporting at 5%. You’ll never find a higher UOA level from them, so the OP could very well have 7%, 10%, 20%, etc and it would still report as >5%.
 
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You

This is not necessarily related to your post here, I am not going to answer every conspiracy poster. All I know is what I see, I even PMed MolaKule on it during the summer. I was surprised as hejj. You guys can go all negative and conspiracy on this if it makes feel better. I am just stating what I see. You guys dig in to my wording as part of this conspiracy, WOW. YAWN.

RamFan, It is more then 5% as the test goes way down on accuracy after that the told me. That is why they use 5^ I guess.I assume it is in the 7% area.

Maybe I should bring in someone to write a whitepaper on this, so it is not a conspiracy.

If the level rose by 3/4 of a quart, on an engine that holds 5 quarts, your fuel dilution was way higher than 5 or 7%. If fuel dilution was the cause of the rise.... you'd be looking at 15% fuel.

if you have an obd reader that can read live data, try this. On a cold engine, start the engine and in a few seconds stop it again, and watch the fuel pressure. If everything is right, the fuel pressure stays where it was. On a hot/warm engine the fuel pressure rises after shutting down. If the fuel pressure drops, something is leaking. There's 4 injectors that can leak, and the high pressure fuel pump can leak back to the low pressure side, or into the engine.

90% of the time it's one or more injectors on these engines.
 

Mainia

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If the level rose by 3/4 of a quart, on an engine that holds 5 quarts, your fuel dilution was way higher than 5 or 7%. If fuel dilution was the cause of the rise.... you'd be looking at 15% fuel.

if you have an obd reader that can read live data, try this. On a cold engine, start the engine and in a few seconds stop it again, and watch the fuel pressure. If everything is right, the fuel pressure stays where it was. On a hot/warm engine the fuel pressure rises after shutting down. If the fuel pressure drops, something is leaking. There's 4 injectors that can leak, and the high pressure fuel pump can leak back to the low pressure side, or into the engine.

90% of the time it's one or more injectors on these engines.

Well if that is the case it has fixed itself. I am as amazed as anyone here. That is why I contacted MolaKule to see if he had any ideas. Just cut and dry the oil went in and I checked the oil 2 weeks later expecting a small rise and dead nuts 1/2 way in the middle of 2mm dot after sitting for the night. The exact spot it was at the first night. It stayed that way and gained 1mm to be at the top of the dot when I dumped it. I checked it almost every week after that and could not believe it. I would call BS on ME TOO. That why I really am not getting too upset people saying crap, I don't believe what I see either. I did not test that oil. I will be testing this oil since it is in the winter.

I would throw some Mobil 1 ESP I still have in, but when I was playing oil brand swap back at the beginning I got a high lead 70 ppm from changing brands and add packs the guy at Polaris said. They see it from time to time. He wanted to see me stay with the same oil for three oil changes and said we will see this come down, as it did. He raced Hyundai's and builds motors so they tossed me over to him because he was their Hyundai guy.

The more I think of it, I may switch to the ESP next to test if the injectors fixed themselves.
 
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When I bought my car back in 2018, I knew I was going to have bad fuel dilution problems. In fact, I bought a 10 pack of tests from Polaris Labs before the car was even in the driveway. My car is a lowered 2018 Hyundai Kona AWD 1.6T. I short trip summer and winter, I use a car starter year round, and am on boost more then most. I have always had fuel dilution, even in summer. In winter I would gain 3/4 qt +, and would have to pump out oil through the dipstick port with and oil analysis sample pump. during my 3,000+ winter and 4,000 summer OCI. I am ALWAYS above 5^ at Polaris Lab advanced fuel test. ( you have to force them to do that test, otherwise you get the worthless inaccurate generic one) I have been through different oils most all show an increase in oil level within 500 miles. My first long term "go to oil" oil was Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30. I will not go lower then a 11+ 100C and min 3.5 HTHS oil. This last summer I found Redline Euro 5w-30 on sale around $9.20/qt.

Right off the bat I noticed ZERO oil level gain in the summer through the whole 3,750 miles I went. I was waiting to see what winter had to offer me, as I always gain high levels in Minnesota winters. Almost no gain, it gained that small little dot above the F mark, 2mm at the most, after 3,500 miles. Even that we have not had the real low temps yet I would still gain 3/4 qt. in these so called warm temps.

I specifically wanted to go to Redline because of the Ester for it's aluminum loving polarity for the Hyundai's piston metallurgy/galling issues. My thought was on startup, Ester based oil will have a better chance to be on my piston skirts then other oil. I also wait before I drive off to let my pistons expand a bit as I have seen some bad rocking wear on some OEM "short length" piston skirts, even in summer. The Euro also has lower Ca aiding the Ester to reduce LSPI since I get 17+ psi boost at 1,400 rpm .

As I stated before fuel dilution really is a non-factor to me. I tested and tested and there was no wear with 5+ percent fuel, so I soon learned not to worry as so many people do thinking "oh no fuel dilution, EEK!!! " . I would rather not have it YES, NOW I do not have it. But no, after all my testing with no wear I do not have a worry at all anymore that I had it. It was a 100% non factor of worry for me, even at 5 plus percent.
Hello there, he who hails from the land of kschachn... (neighbors?) Okay so. I just saw this thread, and I just want to ask you something.. Are you saying use of Redline oil has solved the fuel dilution problem?

Just asking, and we can go from there...
 

Mainia

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Hello there, he who hails from the land of kschachn... (neighbors?) Okay so. I just saw this thread, and I just want to ask you something.. Are you saying use of Redline oil has solved the fuel dilution problem?

Just asking, and we can go from there...
Read my last post.
 
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4,710
Well if that is the case it has fixed itself. I am as amazed as anyone here. That is why on contacted MolaKule. Just cut and dry the oil went in and I checked the oil 2 weeks later expecting a small rise and dead nuts 1/2 way in the middle of 2mm dot after sitting for the night. The exact spot it was at the first night. It stayed that way and gained 1mm to be at the top of the dot when I dumped it. I checked it almost every week after that and could not believe it. I would call BS on ME TOO. That why I really am not getting to upset people saying crap, I don't believe what I see either. I did not test that oil. I will be testing this oil since it is in the winter.

I would throw some Mobil 1 ESP I still have in, but when I was playing oil brand swap back at the beginning I got a high lead 70 ppm from changing brands and add packs the guy at Polaris said. They see it from time to time. He wanted to see me stay with the same oil for three oil changes and said we will see this come down, as it did. He raced Hyundai's and builds motors so they tossed me over to him because he was their Hyundai guy.

The more I think of it, I may switch to the ESP next to test if the injectors fixed themselves.
Alright, I'm just trying to think.

If the fuel stayed the same then unless the oil just absorbed the fuel like a super absorbent mat.. I'm reading with ya, I'm just not sure what to make of this. Oil is not fuel.
 
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Well if that is the case it has fixed itself. I am as amazed as anyone here. That is why I contacted MolaKule to see if he had any ideas. Just cut and dry the oil went in and I checked the oil 2 weeks later expecting a small rise and dead nuts 1/2 way in the middle of 2mm dot after sitting for the night. The exact spot it was at the first night. It stayed that way and gained 1mm to be at the top of the dot when I dumped it. I checked it almost every week after that and could not believe it. I would call BS on ME TOO. That why I really am not getting too upset people saying crap, I don't believe what I see either. I did not test that oil. I will be testing this oil since it is in the winter.

I would throw some Mobil 1 ESP I still have in, but when I was playing oil brand swap back at the beginning I got a high lead 70 ppm from changing brands and add packs the guy at Polaris said. They see it from time to time. He wanted to see me stay with the same oil for three oil changes and said we will see this come down, as it did. He raced Hyundai's and builds motors so they tossed me over to him because he was their Hyundai guy.

The more I think of it, I may switch to the ESP next to test if the injectors fixed themselves.

I've never seen the injectors fix themselves. I did however fit 8 new ones friday before noon. Those were bot non turbo cars, otherwise it would have taken a bit longer. But not always does the oil level actually rise... In fact it might even go down.
 
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I’d be worried about fuel dilution, maybe not right away, but when you start hitting 120,000-150,000 miles? Yeah.

I get direct injection is here to stay, improve and supply benefits over port, but I’ve also owned two of them now and both have started consuming oil...one right away, the other after 120,000 miles. End of the world? Well it was the end of one of those cars, far before I planned...well maintained and drinking a quart every 700 miles at 179,000 miles. Rings were shot. Loved that car too.

But I think they’ll figure this direct injection thing out and improve enough where we won’t see or hear about fuel dilution and oil consumption/engine wear. I think we’re already there in some senses
 
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This is purely coming from theoryland but if there are no UOA showing little to no wear, could it be that rings have worn and match the rate of fuel dilution with oil burning?
 
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If the oil level is indeed not rising like it used to, there could be a couple of things going on here.

1. The engine could be burning some oil now.

2. The vehicle operating conditions have changed.

3. The oil you are now using may be GDI LSPI friendly. I noticed something similar on my 2018 Sonata when I started using SN Plus oil. With SN oil, the oil on the dipstick would turn dark in a fairly short amount of time and it would smell like gas. Fast forward to the SN Plus oils and the dipstick oil doesn’t get dark as quickly and there is less fuel smell. The last two times I changed the oilthe oil color and smell resembled my non direct injected vehicles.

My dipstick level never increased. That might be in relation to the oil sump capacity of my Theta II 2.4 (slightly over 5qt) compared to your Kona Gamma Turbo, and also due to the fact that your engine is a T-GDI.

It is my understanding that the OEMs have programmed into the ECM certain parameters to help control LSPI in situations that are known to cause LSPI. The OEM response to LSPI was to inject more fuel into the cylinders, which reduces fuel economy and has the side effect of fuel dilution in the oil. With these new GDI friendly oils, the goal was to combat LSPI and allow these engines achieve their greatest fuel economy. With these new SN plus and SP oils, it appears they are in fact controlling the issue with LSPI (or any other kind of pinging) much better than the SN oils and the ECM no longer has to dump excess amounts of fuel into the cylinders.

I posted my experience about this last summer and I basically got laughed at too. But I believe your experience.
 
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FWIW, Polaris cuts off fuel dilution reporting at 5%. You’ll never find a higher UOA level from them, so the OP could very well have 7%, 10%, 20%, etc and it would still report as >5%.

This is how I always read it also..closer attention should be on oil viscosity..My son now owns my 1.5T Civic Coupe Touring (great car for the money) taught him to extract 1qt. once it's up .5qt. then replace that extracted qt. with .5 fresh, always use Edge 0/40...son now has heated parking and claims very little dilution but he's watching.
 

Astro14

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I’m highly skeptical of the claim that a change in oil brand resulted in lower fuel dilution.

The source of dilution, your DI injectors, has remained unchanged. So, how could the oil affect the amount of gasoline in your oil? You offer a thin guess, but it’s both thin (ring sealing?) and a guess.

Worse, you impute lower dilution based on oil level measurement.

Because the oil level didn’t rise as much, you’re not getting gasoline in the oil? That’s a wild assumption. You are more likely to be getting the same amount of fuel, but some, as yet unknown, factor is causing the oil to be consumed.

Therefore, same dilution, but no change in level.

Your “conclusion” is premature, when no UOA has been done and many alternative explanations exist.
 
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WOW, that's a lot. Mine could be a Qt but not 1.5Qts like you. I would pump it out a couple times and really didn't measure it accurately because I wasn't ready for this conspiracy I am doing, I guess.
I poured the dumped oil into a measuring bucket. The oil capacity was 3.7 qrts. Just about 5 qrts came out.
 
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