Just bought a 2015 Mazda 6, planning ahead.

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88
Location
MD, USA
Just got the car over the weekend and now I'm trying to figure out what oil/filter to go with. From what I've read the Mazda OEM filter is pretty cheap, good and is meant to work correctly with the skyactiv motors, so that's an easy one. However, oil on the other hand, I'm not sure about. I see that people are running different 0W20 oils and that all OW20 oils from what I've read are all good oils. So what's the story on Moly? Do all OW20 oils contain moly, or only some oils? Mazda Ow20 clearly has Moly in it. Any reason not to use Mazda oil other than the cost of the Mazda label? Thanks for any help.
 
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1,799
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NJ now SC
Originally Posted By: Koz1
The Mazda brand with Moly is a great oil. If your dealer indeed has it I would use it.
They do have Mazda label 0w20 but Mazda service uses bulk Castrol Edge Professional OE. Castrol is a sponsor of Mazda racing. Now you can request Mazda 0w20 and pay more but will you actually get it?
 
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14,031
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Kendall, FL
Castrol, Mazda, Mobil1, Pennzoil Platinum, Valvoline SynPower (no moly) etc., all great 0w20 oils. Don't sweat it and enjoy the ride.
 
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4,998
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Milwaukee, WI
If you were really planning ahead you would have just bought a minivan right away. Most 0w-20's contain moly since they need to meet a fuel economy target. You can compare oils here: http://www.pqiamerica.com/June%202014/consolidated%200W-20.html Sure the Mazda oil is fine. Or Mobil 1. Or pretty much any 0w-20. Currently I would agree there isn't a bad oil in this grade. Our minivan warranty requires 0w-20 (I'm not interested in comments on my stance on this issue, thanks) and I use QSUD, which is both inexpensive and has tons of Moly. Something to consider.
 
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2,147
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Chicago, IL
I usually buy the least expensive synthetic 0W20 that Walmart carries, which lately has been QSUD ($22). As a bonus, it seems to have the most moly. M1 AFE is back up over $26/jug, but I was using that while the price was rolled back. I slightly prefer the M1 for the lower cold (-35C) viscosity as tested by PQIA. I'd use TGMO or MGMO if price and availability wasn't a factor.
 
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1,048
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SE Wisconsin
Originally Posted By: jeffie7
Just got the car over the weekend and now I'm trying to figure out what oil/filter to go with. From what I've read the Mazda OEM filter is pretty cheap, good and is meant to work correctly with the skyactiv motors, so that's an easy one. However, oil on the other hand, I'm not sure about. I see that people are running different 0W20 oils and that all OW20 oils from what I've read are all good oils. So what's the story on Moly? Do all OW20 oils contain moly, or only some oils? Mazda Ow20 clearly has Moly in it. Any reason not to use Mazda oil other than the cost of the Mazda label? Thanks for any help.
Congrats on the purchase!!! Most any 0W-20 will probably do fine, BUT the Mazda high moly 0W-20 is probably one of the better ones. NOTE: there are TWO Mazda-branded synthetic 0W-20s out there. P/N 0000-G5-0W20-QT - this is not the high moly version P/N 0000-G5-0W20-MQ - this is the high moly version you want! The high moly version is more expensive. That said, there are other 0W-20s out there that would do fine, I believe there are others on here who are using QSUD, PPPP, M1AFE, M1EP, etc. I'm rather happy with the Mazda/Moly oil, so I plan to stick with that for a while. To address your other question: I don't think ALL 0W-20s contain Moly, but most of them do. AFAIK, the Mazda/Moly oil contains the most, BUT there are different Moly compounds that are effective at different concentrations - so more does not ALWAYS mean better.
 
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1,006
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Montreal, Quebec in Canada
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Eneos sustina anyone? I was considering this for the new Datsun AWD. DO they make it in 0/5W-30? My new Mini Porsche Cayenne smile
Do you know that your Datsun has 0w-20 as factory fill? I don't remember if I saw that here or on Nicoclub. I myself used PP 5w-20 (one of the lightest 5w-20) oil when I had this CUV with great result. I did UOAs on the Rogue, so you should find them easily here.
 

jeffie7

Thread starter
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88
Location
MD, USA
I wonder when the dealership uses castrol oil if they add moly or just use the straight Castrol 0W-20 I'll check to see if the dealership has the Mazda W/Moly and not I'll most likly go with quaker state. The car is going to be a high mileage car. I'm thinking about changing the oil at 3000 first time out, then 7500 the 2nd time out with a black stone report. Any reason to get a black stone report on the first oil change? Seems to me like it should just show some high metal numbers regardless. Car is my wife's car, it will see about 140 miles per workday and another 100 or so on the weekend. I CANNOT wait to do the oil change on this car VS her old car which was a Civic SI... worst oil change ever. Mazda 6 is soooooo simple, almost as easy as my STI.
 
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14,031
Location
Kendall, FL
Originally Posted By: jeffie7
I wonder when the dealership uses castrol oil if they add moly or just use the straight Castrol 0W-20 I'll check to see if the dealership has the Mazda W/Moly and not I'll most likly go with quaker state. The car is going to be a high mileage car. I'm thinking about changing the oil at 3000 first time out, then 7500 the 2nd time out with a black stone report. Any reason to get a black stone report on the first oil change? Seems to me like it should just show some high metal numbers regardless. Car is my wife's car, it will see about 140 miles per workday and another 100 or so on the weekend. I CANNOT wait to do the oil change on this car VS her old car which was a Civic SI... worst oil change ever. Mazda 6 is soooooo simple, almost as easy as my STI.
1. I seriously doubt any dealer adds Moly to their dealer fill. No reason to. Castrol Edge 0w20 will work just fine. Moly is one ave some blenders take as an additive, other's use different ingredients. IMO, not a big deal or something to worry over. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=106670 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_additive 2. I would wait until 10-20K miles before my first UOA. You will get a lot of break-in 'noise' before that.
 
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16,240
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N.H, U.S.A.
Originally Posted By: Pesca
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Eneos sustina anyone? I was considering this for the new Datsun AWD. DO they make it in 0/5W-30? My new Mini Porsche Cayenne smile
Do you know that your Datsun has 0w-20 as factory fill? I don't remember if I saw that here or on Nicoclub. I myself used PP 5w-20 (one of the lightest 5w-20) oil when I had this CUV with great result. I did UOAs on the Rogue, so you should find them easily here.
Pesca, thanks for your response. I cant get to the filter too easy - though Ill look through the right front wheel well tp see if I can get it off without removing the tire/wheel. If its too hard this will be a dealer OC. frown The fillcap and manual says 5w30. I would say most all 30 gradeFF will be ravaged down to a 20 grade esp with a 4" stroker 4cyl in a heavy car - so maybe that's what they were seeing in the FF UOA - unless it was way into the 7's at under 2k miles. What do you think about the FF shear theory vs 20 grade FF? OP sorry for the semi-hijack smile
 
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1,006
Location
Montreal, Quebec in Canada
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted By: Pesca
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Eneos sustina anyone? I was considering this for the new Datsun AWD. DO they make it in 0/5W-30? My new Mini Porsche Cayenne smile
Do you know that your Datsun has 0w-20 as factory fill? I don't remember if I saw that here or on Nicoclub. I myself used PP 5w-20 (one of the lightest 5w-20) oil when I had this CUV with great result. I did UOAs on the Rogue, so you should find them easily here.
Pesca, thanks for your response. I cant get to the filter too easy - though Ill look through the right front wheel well tp see if I can get it off without removing the tire/wheel. If its too hard this will be a dealer OC. frown The fillcap and manual says 5w30. I would say most all 30 gradeFF will be ravaged down to a 20 grade esp with a 4" stroker 4cyl in a heavy car - so maybe that's what they were seeing in the FF UOA - unless it was way into the 7's at under 2k miles. What do you think about the FF shear theory vs 20 grade FF? OP sorry for the semi-hijack smile
To get access to the oil filter, no need to remove the wheel: turn the wheel all the way to the right (or to the left, cannot remember) and you can pull the plastic protection to see it. No need to left the car, that is a good thing. BTW, you can put a longer oil filter, no problem (same as the one for the Civic). It will get a bit messy as the filter is horizontal and above an arm of the suspension, but not too bad. I know manual and fill cap say 5w-30, but FF oil has been analyzed and questions asked, and FF oil is 0(or 5)w-20. It may have sheared, but it is clearly an SAE 20 oil from the start. They may want that for the break-in period, I don't know. After that, like as said, depending how you drive the car, you can choose to use what they said, or go a little lighter like I did with no ill effect. Both choices will be good. UOA with Synpower 5w-30 (I know you like Valvoline) was really good, one of the best.
 

jeffie7

Thread starter
Messages
88
Location
MD, USA
That was the main thing that put us on the fence on buying the Mazda6 VS Accord. I know rust was a big issue for Mazda a few years back. For the last month or so, any mazda owner I ran across I asked if they had any rust issues, and also any Mazda car I saw in a parking lot, I'd inspect the wheel wells for signs of rust/bubbles, thankfully I haven't found a single Mazda with rust on it. most of them being somewhat newer 2000+ models. We deal with salt, in fact today we took the car out in a snow/rain mix to see how it felt with the dunlops. Thankfully the salt in the DC area isn't nearly as bad as north of the boarder. It's a concern and I'll have my eyes open for it every time we wash the car. Since the car will be loaded up with miles I have a feeling we'll move onto another car before rust becomes an issue if it ever is an issue.
 
Messages
87
Location
Colorado
I replaced a 2005 Mazda6 with a new 2014 6 about 9 months ago. I love this car better than the old one (and I REALLY liked that car). Mileage is out of sight on the new one. Drove from Denver to Monterey CA and back and got 38 MPG avg on several tanks. One tank we stretched out to well over 600 miles. My son drove it from Denver to Vegas with four adults in the car and their luggage and averaged 35 mpg doing 80 mph in 90 degree heat and the AC going full bore. We regularly get 28 to 30 mpg in city driving. I've done several oil changes on the car myself and it's pretty straight forward. They placed the oil filter immediately adjacent to the drain plug. You have to remove a small plastic shield that has a couple of plastic bolts and push pins to get to the filter and drain. The fill calls for 5.3 qts. but I found a 5 qt jug will fill it to the top fill line on the dip stick (no need to buy an extra quart). I use Wix filters only because there's an O'Reilly's just down the street and Wix filters have a good reputation.
 
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1,856
Location
PA
I have no issues with the OEM Moly oil on my Mazda 6. I keep with the OCI recommended by Mazda of 7500mi/6mo to keep the warranty valid. Lovely car too, just great mpg and noise, and it's the best automatic I've ever owned. With that said you can find good deals on the oil and filter online in several places or at your dealer. However I think the OEM Filter and Mobil 1 0W-20 will also work perfectly fine based on the UOAs I am seeing on this website. Goodluck!
 
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