Friends. Choose what's best for my Jeep application listed below. Thankyou.
6 qts. of M1 (TDT) 5-40 w/ M1 filter vs. 6 qts. GC w/ K&N filter.
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6 qts. of M1 (TDT) 5-40 w/ M1 filter vs. 6 qts. GC w/ K&N filter.
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Jeep :: M1 (TDT) 5-40 vs. GC (o-3o)
- Thread starter ARMY_Guy
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The M1 with the M1 filter would be my choice by far. its good oil. and a quality filter that you could run for 5k even 7.5k easily
I like the M1 5w40 because its closer to the Rotella T Synth 5w40 that works so well for me. But I wouldn't use either listed filter, the M1 is just a Champion Labs filter with better media and a high price, but still the same mediocre bypass spring and anti-drain valves. I'd go Wix 15515 or Purolator PureOne PL3001.
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M1 5W-40 and M1 filter. Those 4.0's really seem to like a 40 weight, plus that oil and filter are on sale at Advance Auto until the 25th of this month. You would just have to buy one extra single qt of oil at full price to make your 6 qts.
Run that combo at least 10k miles! that TBN should start at about 10 for the M1 TDT.
Run that combo at least 10k miles! that TBN should start at about 10 for the M1 TDT.
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It depends on how long your going to keep it in service. TDT should be good for well over a year or 20k. GC, I doubt the TBN is up for that length of service. Naturally, use an upper tier filter for that duration of use. M1 is fine as is PureOne or WIX ..and (cue dramatic music) the EaO.
Now many miles/year?
Now many miles/year?
My goodness; one of my posts got 'THE' Gary Allan to comment ?!? My Goodness. Thankyou sir. As for the rest of us plebians; hello boys! I decided to avail the sale at both Advanced Auto Parts & Auto Zone last week; that's where both 5 qts. of oil came with it's appointed filter - the M1 (TDT) 5-4o and M1 filter at one place, and the 5 qts. Of GC with the K&N filter from the other. I have 1 jug of M1 (tdt), 2 Wix, 2 frams, and 1 STP filter, 2 qts of Synteq and assorted M1 qts. in my minor stash as well.
But, the original question and purchase of GC came after all the pro-GC posts on the Euroblend section of BITOG.
Back story: After that Donaldson fan (What's up Donaldson fan.) told me about the awesome cleaning agents of (tdt) and how 2 runs of it may clear up the vicious valve tick my Jeep was experiencing, I took the leap and got the Jug & matching M1 filter for the upcoming oci. I don't want to jinx it, but he's been right so far.
I realy like the (tdt), and was going to run a 2nd oci when the time came, but all that Pro-GC talk told me I couldn't go wrong with the product at the $3o.oo special that I utilized. Now I'm leaving it up to you mooks., uh... And Gary Allan! ;-)
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But, the original question and purchase of GC came after all the pro-GC posts on the Euroblend section of BITOG.
Back story: After that Donaldson fan (What's up Donaldson fan.) told me about the awesome cleaning agents of (tdt) and how 2 runs of it may clear up the vicious valve tick my Jeep was experiencing, I took the leap and got the Jug & matching M1 filter for the upcoming oci. I don't want to jinx it, but he's been right so far.
I realy like the (tdt), and was going to run a 2nd oci when the time came, but all that Pro-GC talk told me I couldn't go wrong with the product at the $3o.oo special that I utilized. Now I'm leaving it up to you mooks., uh... And Gary Allan! ;-)
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My '06 4.0L has been run on Valvoline 10W40, 10W30 YB, M1 0w40, and M1 10W30 High Mileage. The ubiquitous Jeep six valvetrain clatter is significantly reduced when using the M1 HM formula - almost to the point of nonexistent. I suppose that is a good enough reason to just stick with it even at the premium price.
I also have a 2.5L Jeep which ran on just about every clearance rack oil I found for the past few years. It seems to be noisy regardless of what's in the crankcase. I am going to try the M1 HM in it and see if it quiets down.
My old Cherokee 4.0 had super duper UOAs with the pre-Deposit Shield Havoline 10W30 and was quiet.
I really believe obsessing over the oil for Jeep inline engines is an exercise in futility. Aside from main seal leaks and cracked exhaust manifolds, they just seem to outlast the chassis no matter what.
I also have a 2.5L Jeep which ran on just about every clearance rack oil I found for the past few years. It seems to be noisy regardless of what's in the crankcase. I am going to try the M1 HM in it and see if it quiets down.
My old Cherokee 4.0 had super duper UOAs with the pre-Deposit Shield Havoline 10W30 and was quiet.
I really believe obsessing over the oil for Jeep inline engines is an exercise in futility. Aside from main seal leaks and cracked exhaust manifolds, they just seem to outlast the chassis no matter what.
RKBA: thanks for the insight Man; questions:
1) Is it just me or is a Jeep the most addicting motor vehicle ever?
2) How do you think the *new* M1 racing oils would pose in the old inline 6?
3) Is it true that the I6 loves a 4o wt oil, as opposed to a lighter weight?
4) Why should consumers use a 5w or 1ow oil when a zero-w exisits? Wouldn't a zero-w oil be just as good as a 5w or 1ow with the added benefits of (a) being able to get 'in there' deeper and clean more, and, (b) help during initial starts a fraction of a second sooner than the 5w or 1ow oils?
Just wondering.
Open to the forum, y'all.
(Jeep wave)
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1) Is it just me or is a Jeep the most addicting motor vehicle ever?
2) How do you think the *new* M1 racing oils would pose in the old inline 6?
3) Is it true that the I6 loves a 4o wt oil, as opposed to a lighter weight?
4) Why should consumers use a 5w or 1ow oil when a zero-w exisits? Wouldn't a zero-w oil be just as good as a 5w or 1ow with the added benefits of (a) being able to get 'in there' deeper and clean more, and, (b) help during initial starts a fraction of a second sooner than the 5w or 1ow oils?
Just wondering.
Open to the forum, y'all.
(Jeep wave)
-A
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Originally Posted By: ARMY_Guy
RKBA: thanks for the insight Man; questions:
1) Is it just me or is a Jeep the most addicting motor vehicle ever?
Jeeps are the most useless vehicle you will ever love
Originally Posted By: ARMY_Guy
2) How do you think the *new* M1 racing oils would pose in the old inline 6?
Not familiar with that product, if it costs more than M1 HM I probably wouldn't buy it.
Originally Posted By: ARMY_Guy
3) Is it true that the I6 loves a 4o wt oil, as opposed to a lighter weight?
Not in experience; I suspect that theory is mostly internet rumor milling based on a couple of UOAs posted right here on BITOG. It certainly doesn't hurt anything (aside from fuel economy maybe) to use 40 weights if that floats your boat.
Originally Posted By: ARMY_Guy
4) Why should consumers use a 5w or 1ow oil when a zero-w exisits? Wouldn't a zero-w oil be just as good as a 5w or 1ow with the added benefits of (a) being able to get 'in there' deeper and clean more, and, (b) help during initial starts a fraction of a second sooner than the 5w or 1ow oils?
Outside my knowledge sphere to comment intelligently. For Jeep 4.0/2.5 engines I personally like oil that has two things: HTHS >3.5 and ZDDP levels higher than GF-4 allows.
At most operating temps in North America it would seem there is little to no practical benefit to going below 5w cold cranking ability.
RKBA: thanks for the insight Man; questions:
1) Is it just me or is a Jeep the most addicting motor vehicle ever?
Jeeps are the most useless vehicle you will ever love
Originally Posted By: ARMY_Guy
2) How do you think the *new* M1 racing oils would pose in the old inline 6?
Not familiar with that product, if it costs more than M1 HM I probably wouldn't buy it.
Originally Posted By: ARMY_Guy
3) Is it true that the I6 loves a 4o wt oil, as opposed to a lighter weight?
Not in experience; I suspect that theory is mostly internet rumor milling based on a couple of UOAs posted right here on BITOG. It certainly doesn't hurt anything (aside from fuel economy maybe) to use 40 weights if that floats your boat.
Originally Posted By: ARMY_Guy
4) Why should consumers use a 5w or 1ow oil when a zero-w exisits? Wouldn't a zero-w oil be just as good as a 5w or 1ow with the added benefits of (a) being able to get 'in there' deeper and clean more, and, (b) help during initial starts a fraction of a second sooner than the 5w or 1ow oils?
Outside my knowledge sphere to comment intelligently. For Jeep 4.0/2.5 engines I personally like oil that has two things: HTHS >3.5 and ZDDP levels higher than GF-4 allows.
At most operating temps in North America it would seem there is little to no practical benefit to going below 5w cold cranking ability.
Wow. not 1 person of the 219 that visited have chosen GC for my Wrangler. This is worrisome. I think I'll put it to the GC thread to see what they say, as well.
But alas we did find out once again that M1 kicks a**.
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But alas we did find out once again that M1 kicks a**.
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I'd run the 30 weight in the Jeep.
my 4.0 was happier with a 30 weight. Valve noise worse with 40. Oddly enough, the BEST I experienced consistently was... choose a 10-30 (I usually went with maxlife) and add 1/2 qt of syn 5-20. Didn't matter if it was syntec, PP, etc... but 1/2 qt of that and I could stand there pouring it in w/ engine running and in 45 seconds the noise dropped considerably.
Tried rotella 5-40 even, and by itself it was no quieter than maxlife 10-30. add 1/2 qt 5-20 and... quiter.
Worn motor... 243000 miles when I sold it.
M
Tried rotella 5-40 even, and by itself it was no quieter than maxlife 10-30. add 1/2 qt 5-20 and... quiter.
Worn motor... 243000 miles when I sold it.
M
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