Jack Stand Safety

[The Critic]

In my oil change instruction thread, there was a lot of valid concern regarding the liability of properly lifting (and supporting) a vehicle.

If a vehicle is supported by jack stands on the factory specified lift points, how safe is it?

This is assuming we are on flat surfaces and the jack stands are rated for the application.

 

[GSCJR]

Very safe, just make sure the stands are rated for the weight greater than the vehicle.

 

[benjamming]

I think Harbor Freight offers your money back, right? Seriously though, I have no idea why people cheap out on something like jack stands. Since we all weigh risks, at least somewhat, differently, another option is to put the tires (or some other like item) under the vehicle as well.

Anyone have reports of non-HF/non-Chinese stands failing?

 

[wings&wheels]

Very safe assuming the vehicle and surface is level and quality, appropriate stands. That said, I always place a spare wheel under the center or frame of whatever I am working on, just as a back up.

 

[AutoMechanic]

Very safe as long as you don’t have a gravel driveway like me. I always use a piece of wood under mine in my driveway now at the shop we’ve got lifts but sometimes have to use Jack stands and on concrete or pavement it’s fine. I have several types of Jack stands I’ve got some made from Model T Ford axle housings that an old timer made and sold to me I have about 5 sets of those then I’ve got a Craftsman set of stands too for use at home. With my Daytona Jack in case anyone is wondering .

 

[Kira]

Always remember that you can EASILY overcome the safety afforded by the wide foot of any jack-stand.

In other words, real pushing and pulling on a 2 ton weight (the car) can "tumble" a stand and easily topple a car.

 

[4wd]

First step in jack stand safety is don’t use them if ramps will do the job.
Even doing brakes I’d sooner use one large bottle jack + HD floor jack …
It‘s the failure mode that makes me nervous …

 

[The Critic]

I think Harbor Freight offers your money back, right? Seriously though, I have no idea why people cheap out on something like jack stands. Since we all weigh risks, at least somewhat, differently, another option is to put the tires (or some other like item) under the vehicle as well.

Anyone have reports of non-HF/non-Chinese stands failing?

I don't think failure is the main issue; slipping off is. I wonder if the u-shaped ones are less prone versus the flat ones.

The only time I've had a vehicle slip off was with the flat rubber blocks used by quickjack.

 

[jkasch]

While jack stands make me nervous and I use ramps whenever I can (sometimes both), I never read stories, or hear news, of people getting crushed by failing jack stands. I remember one story a few years ago about a guy getting crushed under a Jeep, but he was using them on a dirt driveway. Am I just missing them or is there a cover-up?

 

[spasm3]

I use jack stands only on level concrete.
I do a shake test on the car before I get under it. Tire wheels under the sides.

I never use bottle jacks, the small contact area at the top, and the inability for the base to be as wide as a floor jack scares me.

 

[Dave9]

In a good situation it is very safe. it's when you do something questionable like pick a bad support point or soft or uneven or sloped surface where things go wrong.

A backup jack stand or jack itself or wheel under the vehicle is a good backup plan, but ultimately be mindful of what you're doing and inspect the jack stands for irregularities or damage.

 

[The_Jeff]

My biggest concern is with the structural integrity of the pinch welds/ rocker panels on unibody stuff, when it gets old enough to be rusty.

The only "official" jacking points are often those welds. Then you run into the issue of where to put the jack if the stand is going to be there. I typically find a fastener at the firewall that attaches the subframe to the car and lift via that.

In the last 20 years with crash safety becoming a thing, many cars have "frame rails" that extend back from the firewall to at least the rear seat area. These fit my jack stands better, and I feel they're better metal-- less prone to having salty slush flung in through a crack in a fender liner and rusting from the inside-out.

Jack stands themselves, I trust, perhaps foolishly.

 

[demarpaint]

I think Harbor Freight offers your money back, right? Seriously though, I have no idea why people cheap out on something like jack stands. Since we all weigh risks, at least somewhat, differently, another option is to put the tires (or some other like item) under the vehicle as well.

Anyone have reports of non-HF/non-Chinese stands failing?

Actually they did/do. I had a set of brand new 6 ton jack stands from HF which were not part of their recall. I contacted HF corporate to ask if I could return them because I lost all faith in them, after 2 recalls a few months apart for other jack stands they sold. I thought are mine going to be part of a third recall at some point? They told me to bring them back to the local HF and I could get store credit or cash back. I took the cash and bought American made 6 ton US Jack Stands. Granted they cost me a lot more than the HF stands. I felt it was money well spent.

 

[supton]

I still have jackstands but I've taken to cribbing instead--I keep a stack of 2x8's cut to 6" and 8" and 12" lengths, give or take, that I will stack up as necessary under a "frame rail"--my unibody cars have something like that looks like a rail, and if I spread the force out over a foot of length, I figure no issues. Only problem is, they tend to not go all the way back and I still have to use the factory tiny jack point in some way.

Anyhow, big flat base, solid stack of wood. Always feels more stable than jackstands when I check, and not that much more work than a stand.

 

[Dave9]

My biggest concern is with the structural integrity of the pinch welds/ rocker panels on unibody stuff, when it gets old enough to be rusty.

The only "official" jacking points are often those welds. Then you run into the issue of where to put the jack if the stand is going to be there. I typically find a fastener at the firewall that attaches the subframe to the car and lift via that.

In the last 20 years with crash safety becoming a thing, many cars have "frame rails" that extend back from the firewall to at least the rear seat area. These fit my jack stands better, and I feel they're better metal-- less prone to having salty slush flung in through a crack in a fender liner and rusting from the inside-out.

Jack stands themselves, I trust, perhaps foolishly.

I consider the pinch welds to only be used when using the factory jack with the pinch weld slot in it. On a normal floor jack with a cupped saddle, I never use them as it definitely can crush those pinch rails once they get some rust. You can get slotted pucks for the jack saddle to distribute the load better, but whether you need them depends on the vehicle, usually more important on very low ground clearance where you can't get the jack in very far.

 

[The_Jeff]

I consider the pinch welds to only be used when using the factory jack with the pinch weld slot in it. On a normal floor jack with a cupped saddle, I never use them as it definitely can crush those pinch rails once they get some rust. You can get slotted pucks for the jack saddle to distribute the load better, but whether you need them depends on the vehicle, usually more important on very low ground clearance where you can't get the jack in very far.

The issue I have is they're sometimes the only "engineered lift points" listed in the owner's manual-- if I were to get creative and support my car somewhere else, I'm on my own as to my safety. Even though the points I pick are incredibly likely to be safer than the pinch welds.

 

[Hal-9000]

Just in case someone out there may have these:

I had a set of these and returned them with no questions asked.
Since then, I searched for a good USA made quality jack stand and decided on a set from usjack.
On a side note, regardless of who makes the jack stands, I always use a secondary safety such as hydraulic floor jacks or wood cribbing

 

[RyanY]

As a few others commented, I generally don't rely on the pinch weld jack points for jack stands. I just use these points for a slotted puck and floor jack, and then put jack stand(s) under the frame.

Also, I did not seen any mention of wheel chocks - IMO these (along with E-brake) is probably the most important step in safely jacking a vehicle.

 

[The Critic]

As a few others commented, I generally don't rely on the pinch weld jack points for jack stands. I just use these points for a slotted puck and floor jack, and then put jack stand(s) under the frame.

Also, I did not seen any mention of wheel chocks - IMO these (along with E-brake) is probably the most important step in safely jacking a vehicle.

For example, on your Odyssey, where would you place the jack stands?

The factory lift points for the Odyssey are extremely sturdy from my experience so it has never occurred to me to try a different location.

 

[Dave9]

For example, on your Odyssey, where would you place the jack stands?

The factory lift points for the Odyssey are extremely sturdy from my experience so it has never occurred to me to try a different location.

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