Is this rust considered normal?
- Thread starter jdeare
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Well no rust is "normal" really. It should be repaired since it won't get better by itself unfortunately.
Rust is like going to the dentist where the only thing worse than going is not going. It can only be a bigger problem later.
That black trim piece might be replaceable, it is on my BMW.
Rust is like going to the dentist where the only thing worse than going is not going. It can only be a bigger problem later.
That black trim piece might be replaceable, it is on my BMW.
For a 2012 that seems like a lot of rust. I've seen plenty of rust belt cars which were older with no rust at all. I would deal with it sooner rather than later.
I was hoping that perhaps Mazda fixed their poor rust resistance, but it looks like they didn't. Unfortunately this is normal on mazda 3s.
Here is what that piece looked like at the bottom attaching portion when I pulled it out to fix the rust. I painted the top one before I decided to take the pick.
Mine is a sedan, but the hatch should be similar. The good news is that each rail was about $20 a piece at my dealer and the replacement is not difficult.
Here is what that piece looked like at the bottom attaching portion when I pulled it out to fix the rust. I painted the top one before I decided to take the pick.
Mine is a sedan, but the hatch should be similar. The good news is that each rail was about $20 a piece at my dealer and the replacement is not difficult.
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This must be pre-SkyActiv era. I think 2013 is the beginning. Their current rustproofing is like all others, the entire body goes into the dunk tank of chemicals. Part of the massive Sumitomo bank loan was to update the assembly lines. Their newer vehicles seem to be much better in the corrosion proof dept.
Still, for a 2012 that is disappointing. If you plan on keeping the car I would get it fixed before it turns into a much bigger problem.
Still, for a 2012 that is disappointing. If you plan on keeping the car I would get it fixed before it turns into a much bigger problem.
You might have caught it early enough that you can work on it in place. Remove the rubber trim, clean it all with alcohol, assess how much you need to sand and get all the rust off, then clean with more alcohol, mask and then prime, and paint. Any satin black spray paint should give you a factory finish.
Thanks guys! I'll have to check with the dealer on replacement. Not sure I trust myself to do a repair involving paint.
2012 was the first year for the Skyactiv, this is one.
I will say that I have a lot of rock chips with a tiny bit of rust in them also. I've never had that on any other car (rock chips yes, but not rusty ones).
2012 was the first year for the Skyactiv, this is one.
I will say that I have a lot of rock chips with a tiny bit of rust in them also. I've never had that on any other car (rock chips yes, but not rusty ones).
Originally Posted By: PimTac
This must be pre-SkyActiv era. I think 2013 is the beginning. Their current rustproofing is like all others, the entire body goes into the dunk tank of chemicals. Part of the massive Sumitomo bank loan was to update the assembly lines. Their newer vehicles seem to be much better in the corrosion proof dept.
Still, for a 2012 that is disappointing. If you plan on keeping the car I would get it fixed before it turns into a much bigger problem.
that's a trim piece and won't be going in no dunk tank with the rest of the body...
This must be pre-SkyActiv era. I think 2013 is the beginning. Their current rustproofing is like all others, the entire body goes into the dunk tank of chemicals. Part of the massive Sumitomo bank loan was to update the assembly lines. Their newer vehicles seem to be much better in the corrosion proof dept.
Still, for a 2012 that is disappointing. If you plan on keeping the car I would get it fixed before it turns into a much bigger problem.
that's a trim piece and won't be going in no dunk tank with the rest of the body...
I'd use aluminium foil and sunflower oil. Once its set (which'll take a long time) I MIGHT touch it up with black paint, if I had, or could be bothered to make, any black paint.
I like black bitumen paint because it's easy to remove with thinners if you screw it up. It dries mat, eventually.
This'll be easier if you take it off, but it could be done in situ. Consider applying the paint with a small piece of sponge.
For your stone chips, an aluminium roofing nail in a dremel should work well (pointy or disk end on the rust, depending on area) . For very small areas you can use super glue and/or clear nail varnish as a binder. These set fast.
I like black bitumen paint because it's easy to remove with thinners if you screw it up. It dries mat, eventually.
This'll be easier if you take it off, but it could be done in situ. Consider applying the paint with a small piece of sponge.
For your stone chips, an aluminium roofing nail in a dremel should work well (pointy or disk end on the rust, depending on area) . For very small areas you can use super glue and/or clear nail varnish as a binder. These set fast.
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