Is 300K miles unreasonable?

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Certainly doable. Most well-maintained quality cars can be like new at 200k... so 300K isnt a stretch at all. With Honda products the rubber parts will rot before you get there if you take more than 10 years to do it... but the engine will be sound.

Do watch that AT especially, as it isnt known for longevity. That said, keeping a light foot is, IMO the best way to get long life.

JMH




Unless I have a major, unexpected change in my driving pattern, which I don't anticipate, I'm driving 100 mile round-trip every day to/from work, with about 94% open highway. That and the weekend highway trips and the occasional long trip of several hours is what it's going to see. I've had it for about 6 weeks, and it's got 4600 miles on it, and it's been fairly representative, so if I extrapolate, that's about 40K a year, so yeah. I think I'll get there in 7.5 years.

I *did* buy some Shinetsu grease at the dealer on several others' recommendations on another forum I'm on. They say it's the best at keeping the weather-stripping, seals, etc. in great shape. Of course that doesn't take care of the stuff in the engine compartment, and the rubber parts you just can't get to.
 
My next door neighbor has put 400k+ on a Ford Pickup. I'm quite certain (IMHO probably positive) he has maintained the vehicle well. So, I don't think it's unreasonable.
 
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I've never changed tranny fluid...wonder if it'd be better to have the dealer do it?




It's fairly easy. If you been changing your engine oil and filter over the years, it's almost the same procedure...just different plugs and filter. The tranny filler hole might be hard to get to, and to get off the first time, just insure you have the right wrenches and funnels before draining the fluid. In other words, take the fill plug off first and make sure you can get a funnel in there to fill it before you drain the tranny. There's also the option of filling through the dipstick tube.

Be careful if you never worked on Hondas before, since the plugs are steel and the oil sump/tranny is aluminum. Get new crush washers beforehand. They may be different sizes between engine and tranny drain, and tranny fill holes.

Hope that helps.
 
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It all depends on your threshold for driving a POS.

My experience is that the cars fall apart around the engine; it's the last part to ________ out.

My father and I have had some fairly high mileage engines- a 180,000 and a 198,000, as well as his current 150,000.

What starts happening is that parts like power windows, power mirrors, windshields, seats, alternators, brakes, etc... start showing their age and becoming worn out. I ended up getting rid of my old Ranger (198K) because it was completely decrepit everywhere EXCEPT the engine. The transmission was screwed up, the seats were awful, the headliner looked like it'd been through a catfight, the paint was coming off, the door dings were starting to really accumulate, etc...

I could have put a reman gearbox in for about $1000 and kept on going, but I was just tired of driving such a POS.




As the owner of 2 "high mileage" vehicles I'd have to disagree with you. If you start with a quality vehicle and maintain it the other components will go the distance just as the engine will. My Jeep is closing in on 170K but looks/feels/drives like it has 60K on it. My 300Z still looks and drives like new with 140K on it. No parts are falling off or down on either.

As to the original poster, 300K should be no problem with good maintenance. As has been said before, the transmission may be the weak area but with due diligence may not be a problem.
 
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It is indeed an '07...
va3ux, that's encouraging to hear about the mileage your brother had. That's what I'm shooting for...did he have any tranny problems or if not, how and how often did he service it?




Not a single tranny problem. Don't know how often he had it serviced - I'll ask him.
 
Like 427 says, those washers ARE different sizes. Get a new one every time. With all those highway miles, I'd run Amsoil ATF and change once a year, and either your Motorcraft/other dino for 7500 (provided it's the 5w20) or a syn for 10k; Of course that's out the window if you're following the Maint. Minder.
You will get 300k without a problem; Honda has fixed those bad transmissions from years past.
 
Wow, I wish I could run more highway miles on mine - My 6MT trans would eliminate the AT troubles from the equation. I just don't do enough driving (15k/year mixed) to get to 300K without the POS factor setting in.

To echo some of the other posters - always use the Honda ATF, and 30k change intervals. That'll help get you there!
 
At first, I was nervous about driving a new car so many miles. But after reading the responses and thinking about it, I'm actually now kind of excited about it (aside from the fuel costs). The way I figure it, I'll get more fun and enjoyment out of it because I'll be behind the wheel having driving a great, sporty car year after year over the open roads, which is something I thoroughly enjoy, anyway. So my actual $ per mile goes way down, right?
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Or is that just my way of easing my worried mind?
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As the owner of 2 "high mileage" vehicles I'd have to disagree with you. If you start with a quality vehicle and maintain it the other components will go the distance just as the engine will. My Jeep is closing in on 170K but looks/feels/drives like it has 60K on it. My 300Z still looks and drives like new with 140K on it. No parts are falling off or down on either.

As to the original poster, 300K should be no problem with good maintenance. As has been said before, the transmission may be the weak area but with due diligence may not be a problem.




Agreed... between what you said, not beng lazy when parking (i.e. park at the far end of the lot and walk, to avoid dings), and choosing a vehicle for simplicity over showoffness (can you do fine with a MT vs and AT?, is that latest computer-controlled solenoid actuator motorized digitized doodad really thet important, considerint that itll likely be toast in 7 years), and any vehicle should be A-OK, unless it has a really glaring design flaw.

JMH
 
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Baby steps: Shoot for 100k first. (especially with that AT)




I agree.
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Also driving 40K per year in 5 years from now with a V-6 may be more threatening than the ability of your car do do it.
 
He knows better huh ? I have news for you : these Honda's will do 300K on practically vegetable oil. The fact that your buddy's Honda went 313K with Pennzoil dino and Fram filters ought to tell you something(such as, synthetic oil and great filters are not a requirement for high mileage on a Honda).

All 3 of my brothers Hondas (each one with 300K+) ran on Costco $19.95 oil/filter changes at 6000 mi OCI. No expensive oil, no expensive filters, just the plainest stuff available.

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My buddy at work had a Civic DX. He finally sold it with 313,000 on the clock. The engine made it, but it was on it's second transmission. 10-30 Pennzsludge conventional, and Fram filters it's whole life. He knows better now, running PP and AC filters on his new Grand Prix. Shoot, he might even get 315,000 out of it on the synthetic!


 
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Wow, I wish I could run more highway miles on mine - My 6MT trans would eliminate the AT troubles from the equation. I just don't do enough driving (15k/year mixed) to get to 300K without the POS factor setting in.

To echo some of the other posters - always use the Honda ATF, and 30k change intervals. That'll help get you there!




I wish I didn't put 43K/miles per year on my car over the last 3+ years. It would be nice to buy the car I really want without thinking that it's going to be trashed from the high mileage in 5 or 6 years.
 
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Wow, I wish I could run more highway miles on mine - My 6MT trans would eliminate the AT troubles from the equation. I just don't do enough driving (15k/year mixed) to get to 300K without the POS factor setting in.

To echo some of the other posters - always use the Honda ATF, and 30k change intervals. That'll help get you there!




I wish I didn't put 43K/miles per year on my car over the last 3+ years. It would be nice to buy the car I really want without thinking that it's going to be trashed from the high mileage in 5 or 6 years.




Why not buy the car you want, and buy a beater to rack up all the miles?

I have a '94 Geo Prizm, maybe two months away from 200K, about 94k of those will be mine in about 32 months of ownership.

Get what you want to baby, and buy a beater to burn on the miles.

Eventually, you can rotate your "baby" to be the daily driver and fall in love with yet another "baby" if you desire.
 
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[quote I agree.
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Also driving 40K per year in 5 years from now with a V-6 may be more threatening than the ability of your car do do it.



Huh?
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I think gas prices and mainly gas availability may make driving that distance difficult with the mpg in a car that will be getting significantly less than cars in 2011.
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300k is out of my stratosphere for me. I only drive 10k/year. so 200k is the goal for my rides
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Why not buy the car you want, and buy a beater to rack up all the miles?

I have a '94 Geo Prizm, maybe two months away from 200K, about 94k of those will be mine in about 32 months of ownership.

Get what you want to baby, and buy a beater to burn on the miles.

Eventually, you can rotate your "baby" to be the daily driver and fall in love with yet another "baby" if you desire.




Because I want to enjoy my daily driver. That's where most of my miles are, and I want to get the most out of money. I know it seems strange, but if I pay that much for a car, I want to drive, drive, drive it into the sunset!
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