Is 10W-30 really obsolete?

[addyguy]

I'm in 100% agreement with the OP, 10W-30 is still a valuable grade. At the exact same time, I agree with CATERHAM that synthetic 10W-30's seem like a pointless exercise; and all are most likely 'actually' 5W-30's, or close.

I topped-off my fill of 5W-30 in the Tribute with a quart of 20W-50 a while ago. By my very rough calculations, I've created a thick 10W-30. Enigne is smoother, and oil consumption has slowed.

I'll be using a 10W-30 at my next OC for the summer and part of fall.

 

[440Magnum]

Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
It has less viscosity stability than a 5w30.


Please explain how 5W30 is more stable than 10W30. We are talking non-synthetic oils here.


No, we weren't talking about non-synthetic oils at that point in the thread. The question was simply about the grade, not about the group number.

And while it *might* be argued (I have my doubts...) that the base stocks used for Group II 10w30 are inherently more shear-stable than group II 5w30, the simple fact is that VIIs have improved so much since 1980 that I think the finished 5w30 product is STILL probably as good or better for an engine overall, even in Group II. Getting into blends and Group III or higher, its no contest. They start out with the better base oil for 5w30 and run from there.

 

[440Magnum]

Originally Posted By: Cooker
The 3.5l in the Dodge Journey specs 10w30 too. Why is Chrysler still so big on a 10w30?????

Funny thing is too, while at the dealer the other day it appears Chrysler has switched to supporting Pennzoil Ultra as their preferred synthetic. They had some advertising literature with the Mopar name and PU on it.


Depends entirely on the engine. The later 4.7 v8 is definitely spec'd for 5w20 (or 0w20 if you prefer). I think the "Pentastar" 3.6 is still 5w30. The standard 5.7 Hemis are 5w20/0w20, and the "392" (and former 6.1) are spec'd for Xw40. Up until a few years ago factory fill on the 6.1 was M1 0w40, but now that they've switched to SOPUS for factory fill (hence the switch in Shell/Pennzoil NASCAR sponsorship) I'm not sure which Pennz. Ultra Xw40 they're using.

 

[KCJeep]

Originally Posted By: Garak

Seriously, though, do you guys have any 10w-30 HDEOs down in your neck of the woods? I certainly wouldn't be averse to running a 10w-30 HDEO in my old truck. Of all things, most 5w-30 HDEOs have been discontinued up here, since nothing calls for such a grade in HDEO anymore.


Rotella 10w30 is readily available in gallon jugs in the States, all the other big players also offer 10w30 HDEO's but they are all marketed in 5 gallon pails and above so they are not really hitting the do it yourself personal vehicle market like Rotella is.

 

[Jim Allen]

A recent HDEO find that intersts me is the Mystic (Citgo) brand 1-W30. They have it in gallon jugs at Rural King farm stores. From the specs it's looks good but I haven't tired it. It's about the same price as Rotella 10W30 TP and is dual CJ4/SM rated. I wouldn't be afraid to use it.

 

[edhackett]

OK, HTSS_TR showed a case where the 5W-30 is superior. I said top synthetic. I don't consider M1's standard offerings to be "top", so no cigar for HTSS-TR.

This is the data that prompted my post:
http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC_X_cbe_24855_key_140006587313_201112051449.pdf

In the PU line, among others, the 10W-30 is clearly not obsolete. It offers advantages in NOACK, HTHS, and stability(from the use of heavier base stocks) and at the same time offering no practical difference in cold starting performance. Check the MRV viscosity.


Ed

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Caterham,
Do you mean to say that a Grp III oil labeled as a 10W-30 will actually meet the cold specs of a 5W or maybe 0W oil?

No, not at all.
Short of looking up the cold temp' spec's of the oil, if the 10W-30 in question has a typically low VI in the 140 range then it's using heavier base oil stocks than it's 5W-30 counterpart.
A 10W-30 syn is cheaper to formulate than a 5W-30 which is cheaper to make than a 0W-30, but formulators rarely price a 10W-30 less than their 5W-30. Knowing that, if you can get a 10W-30 syn on sale for a dino price it may be a good deal for summer time use if you're not doing a lot of short trips.

 

[WMSmotorhead]

10w-30 is a common recomendation for OHV Lawn Mowers.....

I try not to over think things. If the book said 10w-30, I pour that in there.

I just got a big take on Wolf's Head and Mag1 10w-30, so I'm set for a long darn while.

 

[RamFan]

While not synthetic it is a synthetic blend and considered by many to be the "best" HM oil you can get. I'll be running this in my Charger to see if it slows the consumption any.

Valvoline High Mileage

--------@100,@40, VI, TBN, FP, PP, NOAK
5w30::11.5, 67, 163, 8.7, 221, -42, 12
10w30:11.5, 75, 146, 8.7, 216, -42, 11

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: KCJeep
Rotella 10w30 is readily available in gallon jugs in the States, all the other big players also offer 10w30 HDEO's but they are all marketed in 5 gallon pails and above so they are not really hitting the do it yourself personal vehicle market like Rotella is.


Most up here is in the 5 gallon pails, too. One can find the gallon jugs (particularly of Rotella and some Coop stuff, if one looks hard enough). I'm not averse to 5 gallon pails, though.

Originally Posted By: WMSmotorhead
10w-30 is a common recomendation for OHV Lawn Mowers.....


Unless it's below -15 F, at which point one needs a 0w-20 or a psychiatric evaluation.

 

[Ram01]

10w30 will protect the motor better

 

[weebl]

I still use dino 10W-30. But that is because when I had my Protege and lived in a mild climate, that was the oil I used and it was one of the approved grades - I had a case before we moved here. Protege is now gone, and winters here are severe and our van sees tow duty, not to mention we do road trips in the summer through extreme heat. I use synthetic on that.

But I couldn't waste the almost full case of Formula Shell 10W-30 (may be SL or SM, not sure). So it goes into my lawnmower and now my generator.

When all the bottles are gone, those small engines will see either my leftover synthetic, or will just get fed more dino 10W-30.

So not obsolete to me, it has a use. I think there are many automotive applications where it will continue to be a good choice as well.

10W-30 synthetic on the otherhand, seems pointless.

 

[LeakySeals]

Responding to another post I found another oil that should be considered obsolete right at the start of its new existence. 0w30.

 

[addyguy]

Grabbed some PYB 10W-30 for the upcoming OC on my Tribute, and deliberately chose it over the 5W-30 and 5W-20 also available.

But, it will get changed out for a 0W-20 in October...ran 5W-20 'dino' last winter, and didn't like the way the truck started in the cold!

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: edhackett
Show me a 5W-30 that has a higher HTHS, lower NOACK, and will shear less than the 10W counterpart that is formulated with higher viscosity base stocks.


All this talk about HTHS and NOACK. . . Will the oil lubricate the engine and keep it quiet? That's the question.

 

[[RT] ProjUltraZ]

it's basically obsolete compared to my 5W-30 spiked w/ ZDDP, or moly, or molabrew

 

[levi]

The SAE grade is as much about marketing as anything else.

Thanks for stating something I have suspected for a while.

.

 

[zerosoma]

I think that 10w30 has a slight advantage over 5w30 in one department : there is less viscosity modifiers in that formula.

Otherwise 5w30 seems to be more versatile for today's engines.

 

[Stelth]

Hey, I found a 10w-30 that's not obsolete! Mobil 1 10w-30 HM. The reason I say that is that the M1 5w-30 HM isn't ACEA B3/B4, but the 10w-30 is. Plus, AZ online seems to be having an unannounced sale on it right now, so I have some on the way.

 

[Rob_Roy]

I use 10w30 HDEO in everything but the boat. One pail of oil to keep on hand, and everything runs excellent...maybe this viscosity is obsolete, but it works great for me.