Good low volatility 10w-30 for a Skyactive GDI engine?

And yes Bill, I'm aware of the change in the requirement, that's what my statement was referencing. They may have observed some less than desirable performance characteristics from the 5w-30's commonly available in Mexico (such as significant viscosity loss due to the use of cheap VII polymer and very thin bases) and so they've "upgraded" the spec to 10w-30, which will be more shear stable due to the use of higher viscosity base oils.
Yes as we have seen on here, functional and durable VII are more expensive.
Curious what brands of oil are sold in Mexico? Is it cheaper version or the Harbour Freight version of what's available in US or they have their own brands?

I've been told some bottled waters maybe filled locally with tap water. :alien:
Curious what brands of oil are sold in Mexico? Is it cheaper version or the Harbour Freight version of what's available in US or they have their own brands?

I've been told some bottled waters maybe filled locally with tap water. :alien:
Apparently you can get the FRAM oils, which are API SN/GF-5 and nothing else, lol:

This page is interesting:

$1,000 converted to USD is $49.57, which I assume is a lot of money there.

This sweet 25w-50 is $98 (Mexican):

Hella SN 5w-30 is $120/quart ($6.00 USD):

I suspect a lot of the local service shops are going to stock products that might be on the PQIA watch list if sold here, lol.
If I move to San Diego, I could smuggle engine oil. I think the boarder guys are busy looking for incoming drugs and not outgoing 10W/15W-40. I think Gokhan lives in that area. Maybe he can help or run the import/export excel sheet.
A tunnel from San Diego Wal-Mart is not a bad idea either! lol
Pretty much the most stable, low volatile base stocks and add pack will be valvoline premium blue RESTORE. It says consider it a 15w-30 on the jug.
This morning I ordered Redline MT-90 for the transmission and 75-90 for the rear diff, I like and have used redlines gear oils, I have never tried thier engine oil, never could quite choke down the price but this MX-5 has a small crankcase, and my commute is short. I should look into that as well.
I went back and forth with Red Line, however, there are things I don't like about them. Some of their formulations seem weird, especially their gear oils. For synthetic oil, it surely behaves like dino lube in the cold. Just my two cents.

Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30 is a smidge thicker than 0W-20 and should not rob your engine of any power, especially in the heat.

AMSOIL Severe Gear is a better product than RedLine Gear Oil. Other than AMSOIL, I recommend Castrol Syntrax Long Life 75W-90 (the European version). It's very good gear oil.
Can you elaborate on this?
No, I don't have the time or inclination to do so.

So, here it is briefly: every time I consider them for use I stumble on a surprising lack of concrete data, test results, not to mention the complete lack of engine and powertrain tests and teardowns. The UOAs I find are inconsistent and show inconsistencies with large deltas amongst the same products. Other than forum anecdotes and some spotty marketing, there is a surprising lack of concrete lack of information about Red Line Oil. In addition to that, they are being very secretive, and their latest efforts to overhaul their High-Performance engine oils have failed so far with the most bizarre additive and NOACK values I have ever seen thus far:

And that was the product catalog for last year. Not confidence-inspiring, not to mention that some of the numbers are out of whack.

Most of everything they make is PAO+POE - higher density lubricants that have poor cold flow. They say they are meant for heat resistance, however, oxidative thickening happens with their motor oils no matter what. The longer you run it, the thicker it gets. It's .... bizarre.

The gear oils have unusually high amounts of phosphorus in them, and the UOAs I found thus far don't show anything spectacular about Red Line's gear lubes when compared to Mobil 1 or Valvoline, let alone AMSOIL.

Their transmission fluids, according to forum anecdotes, specifically the D6, are too slippery. There are some accounts of ZF 8HP transmissions slipping on this stuff. The solution is even more bizarre: just mix in some racing ATF.

Look around long enough and you'll find more of the same.

I briefly considered them for use in my new Durango and quickly abandoned the idea. They have a certain "cool factor" associated with them. To me, that's not reason enough to use their products.

I think this is long enough, I really don't have the time to go into more detail.
2022 Mazda MX-5
In Australia they list: 0W20, 5W30 and 10W30 for that car.

Get a quality name brand synthetic, that is API SP, and you are good to go.
Yes that the same thing they show in my 2022 Mazda CX-5 manual.
So after break in I may just move to 5W-30 or a mix.
Funnily enough Mobil's 20 grade oils are made from better base fluid than their 30 grades.
Ehh maybe on the regular 5w30 and EP but I don’t think it’s better than the M1 ESP 30 weights. When reading on here it seems that Mobil’s ESP line has much better base stocks and higher HTHS.
If 20 shears too much, it turns to water ... so maybe they are forced to use a better base oil and not by choice!
the mission of corporations (as it should be) are to sell the cheapest at highest price as long as consumers are aware of that (as they should be).
Oil temperature is not monitored on stock but Miata’s are tracked a lot and that oil temperature is closely watched. 30% of the heat is exchanged by oil, and the flow of oil. Tracked cars can see oil temperature decrease.

So… not ot say this is true but oil flow is engine cooling and temperature is always changing the viscosity. Target coolant temperature is close to oil temperature on street but tracked cars have much higher oil temperatures than coolant. Some guys run 0w-20 to get the benefits. Others run 0w-30 or 5w-30.

That URL came up nothing found for me