Installing turbo kit...found interesting instructions

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Hey everyone. I thought I would share the concern I am having with the turbo I am installing in my 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer OZ Rally. The kit uses a Garrett T-28 journal bearing turbo and the instructions with the kit specify a 20W-50 oil and not to be synthetic. The factory oil recommendation for the motor is 5W-30, but this is without a turbocharger.

Why in the world would they recommend something so thick and not to use synthetic?
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The thickness I can understand. They've probably determined that turbo benefits from thicker oil, and, under the higher engine load from the turbo, the engine may too.
The no-synthetic recommendation doesn't make sense to me though. You should give them a call and ask about it.
 
Does it specify 20W-50 for the turbo or for the engine after the installation. I know that some chargers (like in GM models) require a separate oil for the charger. Are you saying that Garret specifically tells to use mineral 20W-50 in engine after the installation of a turbo? If it indeed the case I would just Mobil 1 5W-40, or 15W-50, possibly Redline 10W-40.

Regards,
 
That has to be the case, because Dino oil is a mess with a turbo charger, you pretty much NEED synthetic in my opinion.
 
RoadRace Motorsports makes the kit. Sorry for not clarifying, but they recommend filling the motor with 20W-50 dino. The turbo has oil fed from a tap near the oil filter.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Dookie:
RoadRace Motorsports makes the kit. Sorry for not clarifying, but they recommend filling the motor with 20W-50 dino. The turbo has oil fed from a tap near the oil filter.

There is not one reason NOT to use synthetic in this application. There are, however, lots of reasons to NOT use dino
 
quote:

Originally posted by berge:There is not one reason NOT to use synthetic in this application. There are, however, lots of reasons to NOT use dino

I don't know much about this stuff, so could you clarify some? I'm thinking of using the Amsoil 10W-30 for it. Any opinions? I know I may be opening a whole new can of worms when it comes down to brand choice.
 
I suspect the 20W50 spec was for mineral oils after charger installation.


If you are set on using Amsoil, I would use Amsoil 10W40, AME 15W40 or as Titanium pointed out, some of the 5W40's, and then see how the oil holds up to your "blown" engine.

And please do UOA's and post so we can see the effects of the blower on the oil and engine.

Good Luck.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Titanium_Alloy:
Does it specify 20W-50 for the turbo or for the engine after the installation. I know that some chargers (like in GM models) require a separate oil for the charger. Are you saying that Garret specifically tells to use mineral 20W-50 in engine after the installation of a turbo? If it indeed the case I would just Mobil 1 5W-40, or 15W-50, possibly Redline 10W-40.

Regards,


Yes but most of those are superchargers, not Turbo charges. I am not sure if its possible to have a separate oil tank for a turbo, although I could be wrong.
 
Thanks for the advice everyone. Is there any difference that would be advantageous to the turbo with the Amsoil 10W-30, compared to the 10W-40? Reason why I ask that is because the front of the 10W-30 bottle states "turbo formulated". Their tech. support recommended the 10W-30 as well because it was "turbo formulated". What makes this 10W-30 better for turbos, supposedly?
 
quote:

I am not sure if its possible to have a separate oil tank for a turbo, although I could be wrong.

IIRC, Aerodyne used an integral sump and oil wick arrangement to lube the bearings, which to my way of thinking is really iffy. I'm not even sure if they are still available ?

Rick.
 
I can't see Garrett having a problem with synthetics, as there are an awful lot of large trucks with OEM Garretts on them running D1, etc.

Crikey, my Land Rover has a Garrett T250, and I've been using Delvac 1 for the last 60 000km without a problem.

Rick.
 
I think it's an old school die hard thing. When I bought and installed a Crane cam in my 327 chev the camshaft instructions stated to not use synthetic oil. I was using Mobil 1 at the time.

I was thinking that makes a whole lotta sense? This was in the late 80s though. I guess old ways die hard. I think it is the same with your turbo.
I can't think of any reason why synthetic would not be superior in almost every way.
 
If you guys are interested, visit here: Lancer Oil Debate

Please remember that a lot of these guys are kids and go with what people tell them, even if they have proof or not. Long story short on this thread, guy blew his turbo motor (same engine as mine) and they blamed it on synthetic. Debate actually starts half way down on first page. Please let me know what you guys think.
 
Just finished reading the entire 7 page thread. Matter of fact, there is a guy on there that was referencing this board. I guess what this whole topic comes down to, is that they suspect the oil pump can have the inability to sufficiently pump synthetic oil. Doesn't make sense to me.

In any event, what synthetic oil will have the same viscosity as dino 20W-50? I had heard that some synthetics change with time. True?
 
if the engine can't handle boost = boom.

beef up the internals & bottom end to handle boost and then no boom.

synthetic has nothing to do with it.

i have every confidence that you can use synthetic.
 
Well, it can handle boost with stock internals, but is limited to no more than 10 psi. The kit I'm using runs at 9 psi. Anyway, back to what I was asking....if I were to compare visocities between a 20W-50 and any synthetic, what would the visocity of the synthetic be? Would it be the same as the dino oil? I had heard that synthetic gets thinner over time. Is this true?
 
Well let me throw this one out. How about a compromise by using Amsoil S2K 20W-50? Any inputs?

If I do go with ANY 20W-50, I'm concerened with the winters, even though they don't get all that cold here in Vegas...
 
Perhaps it has something to do with run in on the turbo?
I have never really heard of a run in procedure for turbos, but then I have never really checked up on anything like that.

Generally, I'm not too surprised by the recommendation though, it was not long ago that car makers did not "recommend" synthetic oils for their engines, preferring to still specify good quality dino based oils for even their top rated turbo power plants.

Dino based oils still have certain properties that elude replication in a synthetic based product, and generally there are some engines that don't respond well to synthetic based products, so perhaps the makers of the turbo know something we don't???
 
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