Installing turbo kit...found interesting instructions

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Certain mineral oil properties eluded by synths?? like sludging or coking the turbo bearings

Which engines don't respond well to synthetics?

What turbo makers know about synthetics: less rebuilds + longer lasting turbos = less sales!

Dookie, don't worry about the synthetics. Use the 20w50 synth. For winter, there are 10w60, 15w50, 10w50 and 5w50 synthetics that will flow better during cold 1st starts.
You should monitor your oil temps.
With the turbo, oil temp will be higher. At a higher temp, the thick oil will thin some and may not be too much thicker than the 30wt at non turbo temps.
 
I am leaning more and more to Amsoil's 20W-50 Racing Oil. If I do indeed go with this, how often should I change it. I'm not looking to go extremely extended intervals, but hopefully not looking to change it at 3,000 miles either. Oil filter-wise, should I just use the factory oil filter since it will be changed at a reasonable mileage?
 
My VW TDI has a Garret GT15VNT turbocharger on it(same journal berring system). The oil recommendation for this car is synthetic only!

--Matt
 
Unless it is watercooled you will probably be looking at 3,000m changes. Watercooled, maybe 6,000m. Change the oil filter with the oil.

Good idea to do a UOA at 3,000m and see if that can be extended.

I would probably run a synthetic 5-10w40 oil such as Delvac1 or Rotella, Motul 300v, Amsoil or Redline depending on budget.

Do you have an tuneable or aftermarket Engine management computer as the engine now needs to be tuned to the turbo.
 
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Well, it can handle boost with stock internals, but is limited to no more than 10 psi. The kit I'm using runs at 9 psi.

Don't you think that could be part of the problem? You say the engine can only handle 10 psi, so your running 9???? I'd snap it back to a more conservative 6-7 psi, especially if you like getting on the throttle.

One of the problems with turbo's on non turbo engines is each engine has its own internal "limits" persay. The same turbo which runs fine on joe #1's car, blows joe's #2's engine out the window. This is of course compounded by the fact that NA engines are usually tuned for high compression and higher octane fuels off the bat...alot of work has to be done to properly install a safe turbo system on an NA engine.
 
My motor can take 15 psi with stock internals, but 10 would be SAFELY pushing it. The compression on our motor is relatively low, but I can't remember off the top of my head...somewhere around 8.5 to 1. The turbo uses a piggy back computer which does all the monitoring and makes necessary adjustments. Of course, I will have an EGT guage to monitor any lean conditions that I may have, so I can know right away...
 
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