Installing Magnafine filter on Honda Accord V-6

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Dan916

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I am wondering whether it is worth it to install this filter on my 2000 Honda Accord with V-6. One wag on a forum said it's a waste of time because the exit line out of the transmission is a low pressure line which doesn't pass a lot of fluid - or the majority of fluid in the transmission. Also that there are internal screens before the internal pump which would catch debris. Also that this transmission is infamous for problems and Honda hasn't specified an add-on filter mod.

I'm thinking an inline filter may also cause a restriction in flow even when clean, although the Magnafine does have a bypass valve.

So far the car has 154,000 miles and shifts fine, except for a delayed shift into D4 on cold mornings. Bought it used around 6 months ago and have no idea about previous history. Transmission tags look to be OEM Honda, no rebuilt stickers.
 
I would say the people on the forum you read are uninformed. While there is a screen and/or filter before the pump, it catches rocks, not small pieces of crud.

The Magnefine does not significantly reduce the pressure and is good to 30 microns.

It can only help.
 
I also have a 2000 Honda Accord V6, a Coupe, bought new, and I have a Magnefine on it.

I agree; the comment from the so called Honda experts is ridiculous. The screens are rock catchers at best, probably 100-150 micron mesh filters at best (I have never been able to determine). Generally, it's the buildup of large contaminants that both reduces trans life and oil life. Every trans has an optimal oil cleanliness level. Generically, the Americans are around an ISO code (Google that) of 19/16 or better. Honda probably does have an optimal level but you will play hob getting them to release it. Essentially, there's no such thing as trans oil that's too clean but you must be practical. My educated guess is that you can keep the oil at near an optimal level on a Honda with 15-30K oil changes (depending on how it's driven) or by installing a cooler line filter and running it 60+ K. That range is generally true with most other transmissions as well (though they can handle a longer run inherently because they often have better internal filtration ... ~ 80 um) but my estimate should hold true with a Honda. I'll know soon, I guess.

On mine, I have a before oil analysis, with particle count, on 15K oil. I won't be getting a second analysis until sometime later this year but I have previous experience with Magnefines, also with particle counts, and I know the oil cleanliness level will be significantly improved with the cooler line filter after a 60K run. I can tell you that the oil stays significantly brighter in color longer with the filter than without. This is my last run on my stock of Z1 and I learned that even when it turned a little dark, it was not significantly degraded.

Yes, the cooler only flows a percentage of the oil but eventually all of it gets filtered. From my own car and other Honda analysis, you may find a higher percentage of iron that other makes and that makes the Magnefine a great choice because it will capture some 99% of all the iron (according to the mfr) which is more than the nominal 35 micron filter media spec would indicate alone. The alternative is a finer filter but The Magnefine is so easy to install and takes up so little space, I think it's the best answer.

To avoid having to repeat a lot that's been said already, Google this topic on BITOG, with or without my name. You will learn a lot adn more than likely be satisfied with what you learn.
 
Of course we at BITOG are probably most likely to NOT need one as we use quality ATF (I use Amsoil) and change it on a regular basis.

I also drive my vehicles with an "easy" foot on the gas pedal.

The best thing is when you swap it out, you get to unscrew it and see what you caught.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris Meutsch
Put it on.
Also see if you've received the dipstick-hole fluid jet upgrade.


I don't believe this upgrade applies to the 1998-2002 BX7A transmissions, or could you elaborate?

I talked to my Honda dealer about their remanufactured transmissions which come with a 3-yr, 36,000 mile warrantee. In a 2009 thread, the transmission cost $2800. Guess what it costs now? $5,000! Are they nuts? On a car that is worth maybe $3000-4500 on the used market.

Supposedly this transmission comes with the 'Honda upgrades'. Does anybody have any specifics on exactly what these upgrades are? I imagine drilling out holes in the valve bodies or porting specific passages, or even add-on mods. I tried Googling but cannot find anything, unless it is hype by Honda and doesn't really exist.

The latest I heard on the Magnefines is that many manufacturers were including it on OEM rebuilt transmissions, but problems arose with leaks and defective bypass valves (!!!).
 
Originally Posted By: Dan916
Originally Posted By: Chris Meutsch
Put it on.
Also see if you've received the dipstick-hole fluid jet upgrade.


I don't believe this upgrade applies to the 1998-2002 BX7A transmissions, or could you elaborate?

I talked to my Honda dealer about their remanufactured transmissions which come with a 3-yr, 36,000 mile warrantee. In a 2009 thread, the transmission cost $2800. Guess what it costs now? $5,000! Are they nuts? On a car that is worth maybe $3000-4500 on the used market.

Supposedly this transmission comes with the 'Honda upgrades'. Does anybody have any specifics on exactly what these upgrades are? I imagine drilling out holes in the valve bodies or porting specific passages, or even add-on mods. I tried Googling but cannot find anything, unless it is hype by Honda and doesn't really exist.

The latest I heard on the Magnefines is that many manufacturers were including it on OEM rebuilt transmissions, but problems arose with leaks and defective bypass valves (!!!).


Companies like Jasper upgrade areas they feel are weak in engines and/or transmissions.

I have not had any leaks or issues in the 5 or so Magnefines I have installed.
 
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Originally Posted By: Dan916


The latest I heard on the Magnefines is that many manufacturers were including it on OEM rebuilt transmissions, but problems arose with leaks and defective bypass valves (!!!).


Far from the latest. Most likely you are hearing misinterpreted comments on a parts bulletin that updated counter people about MFs no longer being included in with reman Ford transmissions.

We have seen some seepage issues but not bypass valve failures. Bear in mind some negatives out there are based on counterfeit Magnefine knockoffs being sold and not the real product. Not saying a bypass valve can't fail, that can happen to any filter, but it's not a prevalent problem with the Magnafine.

PS- I see from your latest post you found the bit about the counterfeits.
 
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When I spoke to a guy at the manufacturers of the Magnefine filters, he said they were rated as being closer to 25 microns.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
I would say the people on the forum you read are uninformed.

This.
grin.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Dan916
Originally Posted By: Chris Meutsch
Put it on.
Also see if you've received the dipstick-hole fluid jet upgrade.


I don't believe this upgrade applies to the 1998-2002 BX7A transmissions, or could you elaborate?

Supposedly this transmission comes with the 'Honda upgrades'. Does anybody have any specifics on exactly what these upgrades are?



Honda's band-aid was to put a fluid jet into the dipstick hole to offer more fluid to (I think) third gear. It didn't work all that well. Inherently, it was a bad design and NOT "bad Honda transmissions" overall. I ran a 2001 Civic with NO filters 227k and 30k fluid changes, shifted fine when I sold it. My 2005 CR-V is at 185k and the same 30k fluid changes, no filter, everything is fine. So far, my 2008 Pilot also has received two changes, both after 30k since new, no issues yet.
 
Does anyone disassemble the filter before using it to make sure the bypass valve is fine? I thought I read that Magnefine used some kind of heat weld/crimp on the threads so they would not loosen in normal use?
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Does anyone disassemble the filter before using it to make sure the bypass valve is fine? I thought I read that Magnefine used some kind of heat weld/crimp on the threads so they would not loosen in normal use?


I received mine yesterday and it looks to be the genuine one. I got it on Ebay through Magnefine. I can't see any parting line where you could disassemble it so I also wonder how this is done without destroying the filter.
 
I think Filtran filters are also good quality; I've used them with good results.

After a transmission failure debris may get caught in the cooler. The recommendation that comes with some replacement transmissions calls for the Magnefine filter at the cooler outlet. If the transmission hasn't blown up, I prefer to put the filter at the cooler inlet. Warmer, thinner oil filters better. Any minor crud in the cooler is normal stuff that won't cause the immediate destruction of the transmission.
 
Originally Posted By: stro_cruiser
When I spoke to a guy at the manufacturers of the Magnefine filters, he said they were rated as being closer to 25 microns.


Well, I think he may be misrepresenting things a little if there is no context with his statement. I have actual tests that show it nearer 35 um. on standard filter test dust. If you tested it using the standard mixture of AT contaminants (which includes 51% iron) versus standard test dust, you may be able to call it 25 um because the magnet will grab nearly all of the iron and lead to a higher "net" result.
 
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Originally Posted By: Ken2
I think Filtran filters are also good quality; I've used them with good results.

After a transmission failure debris may get caught in the cooler. The recommendation that comes with some replacement transmissions calls for the Magnefine filter at the cooler outlet. If the transmission hasn't blown up, I prefer to put the filter at the cooler inlet. Warmer, thinner oil filters better. Any minor crud in the cooler is normal stuff that won't cause the immediate destruction of the transmission.


I am going to install mine before the cooler also, for the same reasons. It's an easier install behind the right radiator fan. On my 2000 Accord V-6, I would have to remove the battery tray to install it after the cooler, which would mean using a memory saver each time I take the battery out to change the filter.
 
Originally Posted By: Dan916
Originally Posted By: Ken2
I think Filtran filters are also good quality; I've used them with good results.

After a transmission failure debris may get caught in the cooler. The recommendation that comes with some replacement transmissions calls for the Magnefine filter at the cooler outlet. If the transmission hasn't blown up, I prefer to put the filter at the cooler inlet. Warmer, thinner oil filters better. Any minor crud in the cooler is normal stuff that won't cause the immediate destruction of the transmission.


I am going to install mine before the cooler also, for the same reasons. It's an easier install behind the right radiator fan. On my 2000 Accord V-6, I would have to remove the battery tray to install it after the cooler, which would mean using a memory saver each time I take the battery out to change the filter.


Magnefine company told me with no prior trans failure either place is fine. Its after in my Jeep and before in my Dodge Ram, only because it worked out a better place.
 
Originally Posted By: Dan916

I received mine yesterday and it looks to be the genuine one. I got it on Ebay through Magnefine. I can't see any parting line where you could disassemble it so I also wonder how this is done without destroying the filter.


It is still screwed together unless things have changed recently. The seam may be under the label.
 
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