Honda V-6 trans. - what OCI?

I was watching youtube videos on the timing belt replace and what scares me is the tools and the leverage needed to get that 19mm crank bolt off! I have a friend that used to run the techs at a Honda dealer and he'll do it for $600 labor. I'm going that route as I only have quickjacks, and not a full lift.
It’s not a bad job honestly. The $20 lisle heavy socket took the crank bolt right off in seconds.
 
and he'll do it for $600 labor
That's a bit steep for the "friend" rate 😂 Add in Honda parts and that's about what you'd pay for the job at a Honda dealership (around here - belt, water pump, and the other common bits).

as I only have quickjacks, and not a full lift.
This job is done on the ground, not on a lift. Well, I suppose if one has a lift they might use it a little bit but you only need to remove one wheel and the inner shroud, which a lot of people just do from the ground (floor jack). Either way, I can do all the basic maintenance (fluid changes, etc) and then some (gasket replacements, brake calipers, etc) but I'd pass on a timing belt. Get a gasket wrong, it leaks. Do something wrong with a brake caliper, it simply won't work (binds up, won't bleed, etc), but you should discover this before driving away. Do a timing belt wrong - when you turn that key and it's wrong, severe and not-repairable damage can be done.
 
That's a bit steep for the "friend" rate 😂 Add in Honda parts and that's about what you'd pay for the job at a Honda dealership (around here - belt, water pump, and the other common bits).


This job is done on the ground, not on a lift. Well, I suppose if one has a lift they might use it a little bit but you only need to remove one wheel and the inner shroud, which a lot of people just do from the ground (floor jack). Either way, I can do all the basic maintenance (fluid changes, etc) and then some (gasket replacements, brake calipers, etc) but I'd pass on a timing belt. Get a gasket wrong, it leaks. Do something wrong with a brake caliper, it simply won't work (binds up, won't bleed, etc), but you should discover this before driving away. Do a timing belt wrong - when you turn that key and it's wrong, severe and not-repairable damage can be done.
That's why you crank the engine over by hand before you button everything back up.

As for leaks. Unless you're doing the oil pump reseal routine, there's not much to screw up. The cam seals rarely leak and if they're not, leave them alone. The crank seal is easy enough to do and is hard to get wrong. Water pump is an O-ring, so it rarely leaks. There's not much else to it.

As long as you take your time, it really is a pretty easy job, as long as you have some confidence. If you set everything on the marks where it is supposed to be, it will stay there so long as you don't ham fist the cam pulleys putting the belt back on.
 
The 6AT has some severe torque converter issues caused by fluid degradation. Honda has issued several TSB’s in an attempt to resolve it (e.g. software updates, fluid service) but the only consistent resolution is to perform very frequent fluid changes.

Let’s just say the factory interval is 25-30K (as dictated by the Maintenance Minder) and it isn’t enough.
Maxlife atf can stand up to the heat and shear pressures much better than oem fluid.
 
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I've used Maxlife, Amsoil and OEM across 2 Hondas. Using HPL in my Acura. Not a problem with any of them. I've never used Idemitsu, though I'm sure that would be just fine as well.

I'm switching to HPL 5W30 in my '13 TL SH-AWD in about 700 miles when the EC30 has hit 2500 miles - good to see another Acura running it! For the 30K service on my TL we did a drain and refill (twice) with OEM Honda fluid and I think I have enough for another drain and refill (twice) in 15k miles, after that I plan to switch to HPL ATF too.
 
I was watching youtube videos on the timing belt replace and what scares me is the tools and the leverage needed to get that 19mm crank bolt off! I have a friend that used to run the techs at a Honda dealer and he'll do it for $600 labor. I'm going that route as I only have quickjacks, and not a full lift.
I've fought the crank bolt on hondas before, you need 3/4 Inch breaker bar, extensions, quality socket, crank hold tool, breaker bar that fits hold down tool, a fat man who can do a pull up, and 30 feet of pipe. Nobody locally had the chubby socket
 
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