In praise of the cartridge oil filter

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It's oil change season at the Elkins household and this week I did my Mazda6 and my wife's 2009 RAV4. The Mazda takes a 6607 size spin-on and the RAV takes a 9927 cartridge. What you're looking a here is the cartridge element from the RAV on the left next to the core of the Purolator Classic 14612 removed from the can.

I wish all my vehicles used cartridge filters because it would be nice to see the condition of the media before using it rather than after it has (or hasn't) done the job. This orange box Fram looks a lot better than the innards of the ToughGuard I pulled off my Scion last week. You can hide a lot of shoddy construction inside that metal can. Plus, there's a lot less energy-intensive metal that might end up in a landfill with a cartridge filter.

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My 2018 Chevy Colorado with the 3.6 is my first cartridge filter vehicle. I like it - easy access, no mess R&R, quick inspection of the filter for anything unusual. Way easier and cleaner than my Miata. And my son's 2020 Tacoma. And anything my parents ever owned.
 
I miss ‘em. I cut open the cans so as to recycle the metal, so it would be less work for me.
 
I used to be against the cartridge filters; thought they were too much work.

But given the abhorrent quality issues in today's filters, I much prefer the cartridge style so I can inspect them prior to install (or, if I can get the box open at the store, prior to purchase).
 
Thread title should be in praise of the cartridge oil filter it seems. 😉

The only thing I have with a cartridge filter is a dual-sport bike. It's pretty easy to change.
 
Thread title should be in praise of the cartridge oil filter it seems. 😉

The only thing I have with a cartridge filter is a dual-sport bike. It's pretty easy to change.
The cartridge goes in a canister, right? That’s what I always called it, but your suggestion is definitely more clear. Anyway, it’s too late for me to edit the thread title.
 
A spin-on is called a canister filter. A cartridge filter is just the media cartridge that goes in a housing on the engine.
 
Yeah, my Daughter's Mazda5 is our only vehicle that uses are cartridge setup. Many people convert them to the spin-on setup but I like to see the filter when it comes out so I leave it as is.
 
My concern with changing the Audi's cartridge filter was the housing being made from high-tech plastic, The potential for cross-threading was higher. Should the assembly crack below the top cap, the replacement cost was quite high. It was recommended to keep a replacement top cap, just in case. Otherwise, I loved not having to crawl under the car (extraction method. for oil).
 
My concern with changing the Audi's cartridge filter was the housing being made from high-tech plastic,
I have two Audis. Both the 2.9L in the '23 RS5 and the 3.0L in the '21 SQ5 S/B have the cartridge filter within the plastic housing. No issues yet with the housing after many 5k mi OCIs. I don't use a torque wrench on the filter housing nut either, just experience knowing when "It's good-n-tight."

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With the cartridge filter in the "hot V" accessible from the top, and a 10-qt oil extractor, oil & filter changes are maybe 20 minutes from start to finish. And the oil cap holds one end of the cartidge filter, so that makes removing and installing the oil filter much easier.
 
My concern with changing the Audi's cartridge filter was the housing being made from high-tech plastic, The potential for cross-threading was higher. Should the assembly crack below the top cap, the replacement cost was quite high. It was recommended to keep a replacement top cap, just in case. Otherwise, I loved not having to crawl under the car (extraction method. for oil).
My wife's RAV is a 2009 and it has around 160K miles with the original plastic housing. I always replace the O ring and only tighten it hand tight. So far it hasn't leaked and is easy to remove. Toyota sells an aluminum replacement and I can see how it might be prudent to install one or at least keep a spare, but so far she hasn't needed one.
 
My concern with changing the Audi's cartridge filter was the housing being made from high-tech plastic, The potential for cross-threading was higher. Should the assembly crack below the top cap, the replacement cost was quite high. It was recommended to keep a replacement top cap, just in case. Otherwise, I loved not having to crawl under the car (extraction method. for oil).

I had to replace our Volvo's plastic oil filter cap after 21 years as its plastic bypass cage/assembly was disintegrating.

And yes, top mounted filters are great
 
Always makes me wonder how much unfiltered oil goes through cartridge filters due to their open design? Does not look like they seal tightly
 
I thought the same thing. One element I got had felt center sealing material
At least an oil analysis indicated general OK condition. The size of the particles in the oil is another question.
 
Always makes me wonder how much unfiltered oil goes through cartridge filters due to their open design? Does not look like they seal tightly
If the cartridge (OEM) filter was an issue in my '21 Audi SQ5 Sportback w/3.0 TFSI V6, then the UOA would show high insolubles:

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/what-are-insolubles/

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As such, in 23k miles and 5 OCIs, the measured insoluables has been negligible.
 
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