I'm about to install synthetic

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Nebraskan,

When did you buy this 29.2 mpg car?

Then the next summer you got better mileage.


Also, Tell us about the 20mpg to 23 mpg outfit.

Just wondering..

quote:

What was the price of gas you paid for your car 10,000 miles ago?

Well, that was less than 3 months ago, so about the same as yesterday..
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Bill

[ August 11, 2006, 01:00 AM: Message edited by: Bill in Utah ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by Nebraskan:


You all can belive what you want.


Alrighty then, I believe you smoke crack
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The stuff about VII breaking down and polishing metal surfaces and wearing out engines was just priceless. And the 3 to 4 mpg improvements just form synthetic? I think a monkey just flew out of where the sun don't shine!
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By the way, I use dino and get 3 mpg more than the rated EPA estimate on a 12 year old car. I attribute it more to keeping the plugs/wires/cap/rotor/air filter new, along with proper tire inflation and keeping the combustion chambers cleaned of carbon to reduce knock and ignition timing reduction.

Maybe the broken down viscosity improvers have polished and worn everything to the point that it's all meshed together well. Fully broken in
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quote:

Originally posted by Drew99GT:
Originally posted by Nebraskan:


You all can belive what you want.
[/QUOTE And the 3 to 4 mpg improvements just form synthetic?
It was 5 mpg.

29.2 to 34.6..

I wonder whats wrong with my cars that I've tried Syn in?

My v6 ford, I4 Honda, I4 Toyota, V-8 Ford, V6 Honda, V6 Dodge, V6 chevy and V8 chevy?

Everyone of them got the same gas mileage using Mobil 1, Castrol Syntec or Pennzoil syn..

And the best MPG on all of them have been with dino?

Something is wrong.
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Oh, and the UOAs are useless too.
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I know, I said I was done..
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Take care, Bill
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I have to side with the conventional camp here. Synthetic has it's place, but it is not a magic potion. It is lubricating oil that lubricates and cools the engine... that's it. You cannot gain any incredeioble fuel mileage from crankcase oil alone.. Sorry but for daily drives in moderate climates in NA engines with no special provisions requiring synthetic oil then there is no need for it unless extended OCI's are the goal.

To the original poster. Mobil 1 is a proven oil. If your goal is to run long OCI's, run it. If you can't do the long (10k+)OCI's return it.
After deciding what you want to do with the crankcase, do something that will help You. You will be around longer than the car anyway.

If I had gotten up and performed 10 pushups instead of reading a thread on BITOG I am sure my gut would not be growing.
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I've seen small but consistent gain in fuel efficiency with the Amsoil Series 2000 lubes, typically about 3%-4%. Changing over the transmission/diff to low viscosity synthetic lubes is generally good for an additional 1%-2%.

It depends on the type of engine and how much internal friction it has, particularly in the valvetrain components. But I think if you keep careful records of fuel efficiency, you'll see a small improvement with these products.

I actually saw the same mileage on long highway trips with the Series 2000, 20w-50 in my Audi as I did with their regular 10w-30. Typically going up that much in viscosity would cost you 3%-4% in fuel efficiency.

TS
 
Look, I'm going to dump my perfectly good synthetic every 4 months, so that I don't have to change my oil every 3 now. I know that most of you have proven I could do this with dino, but I have peace of mind using synthetic. Plus, it will cost me 22 dollars more per/year if I use synthetic. 22.00 is nothing more than pizz in bucket. I could think of hundreds of things that we all waste our money on every day. And I'll bet some of you smoke cigarettes too… there's one big waste of money right there among many others.
So roll your eyes, hemm and haww about me dumping my synthetic every 4 months, but it's really not so much of a waste of money as you all seem to think it is. My temps where I live are extremes of hot and cold, vehicle gets many MANY short trips of 1 or 2 miles, shut off, then driven home; thus, I want an oil that will take that sort of a beating better, and that gives me peace of mind.
 
Hey, Black Bart, as a fellow enthusia$$ I would add to the other suggestions that you are probably having significant "blow-by" simply because it is inherant in force-fed engines and as you mentioned you are running increased tolerances. Along with the blow-by comes oil dilution by fuel which is a concern by itself. Leaving this brew in the sump too long lets the acid buildup from the blow-by contaminants eat away at your bearings while you a takeing that long-winters-nap. I would suggest at least a yearly change before you put her away for the winter to get rid of the acids and actually more often because of the likely dilution of the oil.
 
quote:

Originally posted by TooSlick:
I've seen small but consistent gain in fuel efficiency with the Amsoil Series 2000 lubes, typically about 3%-4%. Changing over the transmission/diff to low viscosity synthetic lubes is generally good for an additional 1%-2%.


TS


So if we had a car doing 29.2 and added 4% that would get it to 30.36 mpg.

He went to 34+ mpg...
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And I know you'd agree (as someone who keeps track of the stuff better than most people) that their are alot of engines that don't get 4%. More like 0%-1%.

It when I hear of 10-15% it's sounding like someones calculator needs major batteries.
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And as someone who SELLS Amsoil, would you tell your customers to change it out every 3-4 months?

In a NA engine with less 3k miles on the oil change?

I respect people like TS and Pablo, they are the STRAIGHT shooters of Amsoil
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(I wish more had their style.. My local dealer is clueless.. Another time..
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)


quote:

Originally posted by mossad:
Look, I'm going to dump my perfectly good synthetic every 4 months, so that I don't have to change my oil every 3 now. I know that most of you have proven I could do this with dino, but I have peace of mind using synthetic. Plus, it will cost me 22 dollars more per/year if I use synthetic.

Speaking of math...

Ok, lets go with 5 qt jug of Mobil 1. The average price for it at a Wal-Mart is $23 (just went up here but I have not heard too many people commenting that its gone up at their Wal-mart yet) so if you change it every 4 months (you said a few posts ago you were going to change it 3 months.. Wonder what happened?) so thats 3 times $23 equals $69.

If we did the same 3 times with Halovine which is $9 average. Thats $27 per year.

The difference is $42. Thats TWICE your number.

Lets even make the dino oil change every 3 months! 4 times $9 is $36, still more than $21... (it's $33 more per year)

But BOTTOM line is your going to do what you going to do.

My point is don't post and ask questions if your not going to have a open mind.

There are people here who have been around longer and may know more and cool if you want to learn.

You don't.
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So, go ahead and run syn. Your engine is not going to be protected any better but that ok.

$42 to you is the real number (not $21) and you can afford it.

Mobil thanks you!
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Since $$ are not a issue, think about running the Syn oil and doing a UOA. Post it.

You'll learn a lot from it and people commenting on it.
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The uoas do have a purpose and the info is FACT.

If you then did a UOA on a run of conventional oil run the same fashion, you'd see the Facts.

I have.

Take care, bill
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quote:

Originally posted by Nebraskan:
Synthetic : Better mileage (sometimes up to 12% or better! Better heat range! Better shear and viscosity loss (less is better and synthetic looses less in the long run in volatility).

Better change to synthetic. I'd go a lot longer than 3,000 miles though
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Go one year change if it's less than 12,000 miles. that's only 1000, per month.

My wife has a Chevy Lumina with 205,000 miles on it. I chaged to synthetic soon after we bought it at 137,000 miles. Changed oil every fall and every spring. 10-30 summer Valvoline Synthetic and 5-30 Valvoline Synthetic in the late spring. She drove 87 miles one way to work. Take that times 2, time 5, and times 52 to see how many miles she drove from oil change to oil hange.
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Gets' great gas mileage with lots of zip!! remember OVER 200,000 miles on it, no valves, rings or other major engine work.
Vern


Vern,

Here in this post your doing great with Val Synpower with the 137k car.

Did you get the same gas mileage improvement as the post with Amsoil?

Which oil do you run and what oil did you get the 29.2 to 34.6 mpg improvement?
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Here is the post about amsoil...

quote:

Originally posted by Nebraskan:
5W-30 Amsoil High Performance. Here is the link:
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/asl.aspx

When my wife first bought the car she was driving 87 miles one way to work (174miles RT). She was burning regular and the car was new to us (used) and had about 137,000 miles on it. The oil was clean in there when we bought it from the guy and she continued to drive it for a few months. During that time she saved her gas receipts and mileage, and she showed then that she was getting 29.2 MPG nearly consistnently. We drove to South Bend Indiana in that car and checked the mileage again on that trip, and it was 29.3 mpg.. so safe to say 29.2 was what she was getting.

Last June, my daughter and I made a trip to Nebraska and back. Several times we got 34.6 and one time we got 34.4 MPG on our trip with the synthetic oil.


You all can belive what you want. Makes no difference to me, just I'm not going back..been there.. done that.


There are tons of new people who read this info and come to this board for facts.

I just want to make sure they get the info straight..

Thanks, Bill
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quote:

Originally posted by Bill in Utah:
There are tons of new people who read this info and come to this board for facts.

I just want to make sure they get the info straight..

Thanks, Bill
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That's why i love BITOG. Anytime oil is discussed on other forums, a lot of things people say are based on hearsay or advertising. Here that kind of stuff doesn't fly.

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quote:

Originally posted by mossad:
Bill in Utah,
Can you or anyone really refute the fact that my engine will be better protected using synthetic on those 20 degree days when my wife drives that lumber box to the school 1 mile away, shuts it off, then drives it home the 1 mile to be shut off again? Wouldn't you rather have a syntheic under those horrid driving conditions?


To be honest, I'd rather run a good CLEAN oil and change it more often since its a fact that short runs of a engine puts a lot of garbage into the sump.

So, what I'd want is to change the oil more often and get the crud out.

As far as 20 degrees, not a problem. I operate my engines in temps lower than that every day from Late OCT till March.

My Truck does the same service most of the time. I drive the gas saver and she drives the truck. It's less than 1 mile to the kids class, sits there for 1 hour then back home.

Then next day it's 5 miles to the kids music lesson. Sits there for 30 mins and back home.

Then it will sit for 1-2 days with nothing.

I will drive it to work here and there just to get it on the road.

I had to take the valve cover off and it was spotless. I run 49 cent a quart Chevron or 69 cent a quart Pennzoil but change it often.

Syn is not going to protect any better. Syn sitting in the crankcase with more by products longer is not good.

Syn is good when you have engines that run for miles at a time and you let the oil/engine burn off alot of the bad stuff. Then you run the oil longer because it's able to.

So, in your car, I'd look for a good oil (esp on sale
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) like Pennzoil, Halovine, Chevron, QS, Castrol Gtx, etc and change it more often.

That will make sure your getting protection for your engine.

Doing the same with syn will work too. But, your not getting any more protection.

I don't own a single stock of anything and am not here selling a thing. I'm not gaining a thing.

I'm here to share!
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But, It's my mindset that we hopefully are here to get the most out of our $$. So to me, that means how to make our cars run longer than most on the least amount of $$.

Again, TO ME.. thats getting the most out of my gas $$, my oil $$ and all the $$ I have to spend out on a car/truck.

I drive more than the average guy. Last night was my last day at my old job which I had for 15 years. 63 miles a day one way. 126 miles round trip.

(So if I don't look at the times I've had to work more than my 4 days a week and the trips to go to meetings. My mileage JUST to work over 15 years has been only 378,000 miles!)

(my new job is only 50 miles one way!
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(5000 less miles per year!)
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I've run the different oils. I've kept track of MPG in many different cars/trucks. I've done the UOAs. I've put the miles on the engines and seen how much maintenance they need and what problems came up (not many).

I'm not here to post false things. I'm here to just show what has worked for me for many years on many outfits.

I've had a open mind and run Syn. In different engines. Done the UOAs. Kept track of the MPG. My commute is the same every day. No traffic issues. So if I get xx MPG with this oil and xx mpg with the other, it's the same running conditions. Not just a feeling or single trip.

In the end after looking at the UOAs, looking at MPG, looking at how the engine is running and how long the engines last, I keep and contiune to run Conventional oil. For me, it's working.

Really, if you feel better with running syn, great. Having a clear mind is worth $omething!
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But, for the others reading this, you don't have to run syn for long life of the engine unless your engine needs it.

Built high horsepower motors, yep syn.

Turbos, I would.

But if we checked the manual of 95% of the engines out there, good oil CHANGED is excellent protection.

When the oil is $10(or less) for 5 quarts, you can change it when it's time and not worry.

In your car with the short trips. I'd change it often.

With ANY oil!
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Take care, bill
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I agree with most of the ideas presented here by the rational posters - you decide who that is.

I'm a dino user.

But, what about the argument that synthetic oils keep engines cleaner? Is that not a good reason to use synthetic regardless of the cost comparisons?

According to ARX, a clean engine is a long-lived engine.
 
Bill in Utah: Yep, we have a 1993 Chevy Lumina and she did drive it on regular motor oil at the time she was driving to work, and she did get an idea on how good the mileage was because it was her "new" car. Most of the time it made 29 MPG, sometimes a little bit more sometimes 30 sometimes 28.5 but right in there. And, I changed to Valvoline syntetic first and it upped her mileage quite noticably. Best I can recall from my memory it was around 32 mpg. Remember, I was not writing this all down for an inquisition later on
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I've recently switched from Valvoline to Amsoil as my preferred oil and with the gas as high as it is I was curious if it was still doing around 32 mpg on our trip to Nebraska. I kept recepts and wrote down mileages (when I remembered) and in 2 instances it was making 34.4 and 34.6 MPG. Not too shabby I think for a little Chevy Lumina.

It did have new front tires just before the trip and Sammy and I aligned the car after we put on a new tie rod end on the right side. 3/8" toe in and handled wonderful.

Now the 20 mpg vehicle? That was an illustration of what 20 mpg vs 23 mpg can do for fuel savings over the long haul. It was easier to use those figures and gas to show the point about money, cost of oil and gasoline savings. When gas was at $0.89 gal when I was using synthetic back in Nebraska (Amsoil again) then it was not as important as it is in todays situation. The longer you go between oil changes (cos of oil vs cost of gas savings) the better it gets for savings, obviously. The 3 mpg statement is true. I know I can get 3 mpg better any day of the week, I just never tried to be the exagerant type.
 
Oldschool
Junior Member
Member # 12481

posted August 11, 2006 09:31 AM
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Hey, Black Bart, as a fellow enthusia$$ I would add to the other suggestions that you are probably having significant "blow-by" simply because it is inherant in force-fed engines and as you mentioned you are running increased tolerances. Along with the blow-by comes oil dilution by fuel which is a concern by itself. Leaving this brew in the sump too long lets the acid buildup from the blow-by contaminants eat away at your bearings while you a takeing that long-winters-nap. I would suggest at least a yearly change before you put her away for the winter to get rid of the acids and actually more often because of the likely dilution of the oil.

THANKS for the reply. I plan to keep doing what I have and change every fall before I put it up for the winter. I think I will drop the pan on it this fall. I have to change the bearings every 5000 miles the mains will have copper showing.
Last time I pulled it down and replaced the bearings I told my buddy that I was not going to let my wife drive it anymore she was beating the **** out of it. Had to be her I never run it hard.
 
Hey Nebraskan, I was just yankin your chain with my post.
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I don't doubt your mileage claims, I just can't quite believe it was from Amsoil alone. I've actually noticed that older engines over 100,000 miles, IF they have been extremely well maintained, achieve much better mpg than the EPA estimates and what the vehicle got in it's younger days. Must be from being fully broken in.
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