If I change my filter every other oci...

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Am I avoiding the "dry start" that supposedly happens when you put on a new filter?

I wonder if that's Honda's reasoning when they recommend the filter be changed every other oil change. Maybe they are assuming that people don't prefill the filter before it is put on?
 
I thought it was because the filters on Honda's is in such a terrible place. It was their way of compensating you for the contortions you need to force your body into in order to get at it.

On the four Honda's I have owned, the filter is always sideways, so there's really no way to prefill it. And it's always between the engine block and the firewall, usually with a hot exhaust pipe and a half shaft thrown in the way for good measure.

Still I change mine every fill, at either 5000 or 7500 miles. $3.00 every 7500 miles is a no-brainer for me.
 
You really don't get a dry start.Have you ever taken apart an engine? The parts have enough oil on then to last through the startup .
 
Originally Posted By: Steve S
You really don't get a dry start.Have you ever taken apart an engine? The parts have enough oil on then to last through the startup .
Agree...

I pre-fill my filters but really don't need to. The rattle you hear is the oil being pumped into the engine but there is enough oil all around that you are fine. Esp if you change it hot and don't take all day changing it.

I'd rather risk a so called "dry" start over reusing a filter.

Filters are cheap.

Take care, bill
 
The filter location is much better on Honda's K23A1 and R engines and they still call for replacement every other OCI.
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Everything is within easy reach and vertical finally, you can prefill to the brim if you want...

Here's a view from under the RDX -
startunderlf7.jpg
 
That is a MAJOR improvement from my 98 Accord and Dad's 2001 Civic.

That Civic was one of the worst oil filters I've ever changed. Glad the car is gone...

Thanks for the photo!
 
My 2007 Honda Accord with the 4 has the filter on the back side of the engine and it is always a mess to change it. My 2004 PT with a turbo has it right underneath the engine and very easy to change...
 
Honda, VW and Chrysler and another manufacture did a study.The study conclusively demonstrated that oil filters become more efficient the longer they are used (up to a point which was about 3X oil changes). I expect since the manufactures recommend changing the filter every other oil change that is is the best option for that engine.
 
How do they become more efficient? What does that mean? They do more of what with less of what? They do more filtering with less oil? Doesn't make any sense to me.

I assume that study means it's more efficient from a cost/environmental standpoint... as in... same amount of filtering with less cost/raw materials. That makes sense. Or, any filter will trap finer particles as it becomes clogged, with less throughput.

But I'm sure Honda's recommendation is to lower cost of ownership.
 
The filter media can be thought of a collection of various sized holes in a sheet, as material builds up these holes get filled up and close off, the smallest get filled first. As material builds up even the larger sized holes get partly blocked and become effectively smaller, eventually all holes are filled and media will no longer pass anything and is at end of service. By efficency the size of the particles the filter will allow to pass changes with use, typically at first a big one can find a big hole to go thru, and as filter ages the average hole size goes down so will tend to catch more, but at a loss of volume of fluid flow.
 
Well explained jidcol. When I worked on filters at ABT laboratories that is exactly what happens. There is literally tons of data to prove it. Often times however; it is the largest filter pores that plug first because of particulate "clumping" which is a phenomena that depends on the detergency of the oil used. Ed
 
I don't agree with that.
Quote:
the smallest get filled first.


Why should this occur? The flow through all the holes should be proportional to their cross section. That would mean that the larger holes should see the lion's share of the flow all the time. It would only be random chance that would make smaller pores close prematurely.

Quote:
but at a loss of volume of fluid flow.


Until saturated ..it would mean in increase in velocity. Now that would extract its toll in elevated PSID ..but that's a stretch, imo, to think that anyone other than a totally negligent owner ever reaches this state. Bypass activity, in the absence of excessive pump relief activity ..is way over blown, imo.
 
The best filter is say a foot of concrete or an inch of steel plate, no dirt is getting thru that, then again neither is anything else say some fluid. Now drill some holes in it and get some flow, drill small holes and they will clog after a while, drill larger ones and they will take longer. Way over simplified but makes sense. If media is holes of size 1,3, and 10 and particles are size 3, then they can only pass thru the 10 holes and sometimes the size 3, both the hole and the particle will vary and miss match enough to get a 3 stuck in a 3. None will go thru the 1 holes, and should jam them up. In real life the particles sizes will be variable, along with the holes, but weighted toward the smaller end of the range. Impacts and adheasion around the smaller holes by overlapping but not fully filling particles will make them effectively even smaller, so even less likely that a size 1 particle will get thru a size 1 hole.
 
I don't think it has anything to do with dry starts after changing out the oil filter. 15,000 miles on an oil filter in a Honda isn't very scary, and Honda can publish lower cost-of-maintenance numbers for its vehicles.
 
I actually consider Hondas one of the easier makes to change oil on. Of course Im doing it standing up underneath it, but compared to many vehicles, they are cake. Something I dont like to see are Toyota trucks and Nissan anything.

As far as the subject of this thread, Im going to run my filter 2x OCI. Thats what I bought and EaO for.. I would maybe use it 3x, but I would be getting over a year with my usage pattern. So, not likely. But Im still cutting the cost of the EaO in half and getting excellent filtration. Do I need it? Probably not, but oh well. :)
 
Mr. Allan, I thank you for your carefully typed, if not thought out answer. If familiar with other questions of mine, I believe filters of oil are vestigial, and are needed only for a short time during break in, and afterward are really not needed if oil is changed timely. Filters may catch things, but they are not removed from oil, merely held and are still in physical/chemical contact with the oil flowing thru/by them, and avaiable to size up and alter other particles to a problem size/chemistry. The only way to clean the engine is to remove these things and that means oil changing, filtering is not good enough, and with oil soluable things best not to leave them in to long.
 
I dont agree on the Honda. It is a mess to change the filter on the 07 Accored with the 4. They could have located it better. I remember my 1999 Ford Countour with a 4 had the same problem with the oil filter on the back side if the block...
 
You could always get a filter relocation kit. It spins on where the filter would go and then gives you and inlet/outlet for hoses so that you can relocate the filter to a more convenient spot.
 
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