I think I am in deep trouble

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Hello All,

I have a 01 Lexus RX300 AWD with a 3.0 V-6. This is the model V-6 that Lexus/Toyota has had sludging problems with and as a result, offer an 8 year unlimited miles warranty against sludge being the cause of engine failure. I bought the truck with about 40K on it from a dealer. Previous service history showed some oil changes at the dealer but was assumed that the previous owner took it somewhere else also. I promptly changed oil and have been running Mobile 1 Synthetic 5W-30 ever since. I change the oil every 7500 miles and change the filter about half way - 3700 miles and top off with fresh oil. I use OEM Toyota and Purolator filters only. Well, the truck now has 62.5K on it. I went to change the oil tonight and everything went as normal until I removed the oil filter. After approximately 3700 miles, the filter looks brand new inside and out and there was barely any oil inside of it. Granted the truck had been sitting about 5 hours before I pulled the filter off since it is right below the exhaust manifold and the football game was on but there was only a trace amount of oil. The inside was almost completely empty, shiny and clean. Previous filter changes always resulted in oil spilling down the side of the block into the drain pan or floor when the old filter was loosened and upon removal, I would dump the remaining oil out of the filter into the drain pan. The filter is not really angled to drain back into the block when installed. It is fairly level or perpendicular to the engine. If there is any angle it is slight at best.

Prior to this, the truck was running fine, maybe pinging a little more than normal but I figured that might be because of the ethanol now added to our gas. When pouring the used oil (4.5 – 5 quarts) into old clear milk jugs, I found no debris nor did anything get trapped in the funnel. Everything else looks normal.

Closer inspection of the filter reveals nothing. This filter looks brand new on the outside minus a little dirt. I mean there is no heat discoloration on the casing closest to block. The gasket looks brand new. Inside, there is maybe a 1/8 – 1/2 tsp. of dirty oil and you can see oil in the passages inside the filter. I could drain an old oil filter for an hour and still have more oil remaining inside than this one. It simply looks new, like it never got hot and is as light (not heavy) as a new empty filter.

In the last 3 weeks, we have put roughly 600 vacation miles on this truck and I am positive no one else has performed any maintenance on it.

Do you all think that the engine has serious damage, I just got a bad filter, or what? I am so terrified that I just stopped what I was doing and left it without installing a new oil filter or any oil. In fact, the drain plug is still out.

I am thinking about getting an OEM filter, adding conventional oil, running it about a 1000 – 2000 miles and taking it to the dealer to have them yank off the valve covers and check for sludge. I am sure they will bill me several hundred for this but this is supposed required for Lexus’ warranty to kick in if they find sludge. Then I was going to get them to change the oil and see if the new filter is empty and tech catches it. Then I’ll know that I have a major problem and so will the tech. My other concern is switching back and forth from the synthetic to conventional and vice versa. For all I know, the synthetic oil is the only thing stopping the engine from seizing.

My next option is to sell this truck immediately and buy something else but of course, that is going to cost me a lot of money I don’t have.

Please help. I have never encountered anything like this. Any tips or advice will be appreciated. I have kept the old oil and filter so..


Thanks..

Neil
 
If I read your post correctly, you are concerned by a lack of oil in the filter right?

And you did say you waited until after 5 hours to pull the filter. I'm thinking (maybe), the anti-drainback valve is at fault and allowed your oil to drain back into the pan. I can't think of any other reason.

From your post I wasn't quite able to tell exactly the position of the filter, but if the gasket end faces upwards, then disregard what I just said about the ADBV.

Which brand of filter was it that you took off and found empty?
 
Neil, welcome back to the forum.

I agree with Clyde65 on this one and have the same questions. Now for my opinions:

1. A short change back to conventinal oil will not hurt anything.

2. If you put the OEM filter on and put in conventional oil, why wait 1,000 - 2,000 miles. If it is required by Lexus to remove the valve covers to obtain the extended warranty, go ahead and do it. If nothing else for peace of mind. These are great vehicles and should not need to be traded at this mileage.

3. If everything is alright, just stick with the OEM filters and go back to what you were doing.

Good luck and don't stay away so long before your next post. Please let us know what you find out.
 
So there is evidence that oil was in the filter, just none in it when you removed it right?

With some cars with vertical mount filters (opening toward the sky) while sitting for hours while hot - occasionally - lose the oil from the filter. My guess is that it siphoned out
dunno.gif


I would not sweat it. I also wouldn't use such a filter for such short usage, but I don't think it's a filter brand issue.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Pablo:
With some cars with vertical mount filters (opening toward the sky) while sitting for hours while hot - occasionally - lose the oil from the filter. My guess is that it siphoned out
dunno.gif


Ok you got me all confused Pablo. I thought the ADBV was to prevent filters from losing their oil when the opening is pointed down.
confused.gif
 
I wonder if there could be a bypass valve that is jammed open and just bypasses the filter completely. By the way, I think gasahol has a higher octane rating so it would not increase pinging. Good luck
 
quote:

As implied by its name, anti-drainback valves prevent oil from seeping out of the filter when the engine is turned off. A typical application that calls for an oil filter with an anti-drainback valve involves the filter being located upside down or on its side on the engine.

I found that on Google, but they don't say what they mean by upside down.
dunno.gif
 
Upside down = opening facing down

Opening facing up = no need for anti-drainback...but the oil "could" be siphoned out as Pablo said.

I smell an Auto-RX treatment here.
 
Go ahead and complete the change, start it and then pull the new filter off or just loosen it to see if there's oil in it (or even see if the filter heats up after driven a little ways). Whatever you do you're going to have to complete the oil change. And do whatever you have to do to get the extended coverage.
 
Neil...relax. There is nothing wrong with your engine. A small percentage of oil filters, of all brands, will have a slightly defective ADBV which will allow hot oil to be siphoned back into the engine sump, even if the open end of the filter points skyward.

Unfortunately, way too many people get fooled into thinking there is something wrong with their oil choice or brand of oil filter or engine (cold start noises), when this happens.

After 35 years of changing oil, I've seen this happen occasionally with virtually all brands of oils filters.

A simple and effective remedy is simply to change the oil filter.
 
quote:

Originally posted by 427Z06:
Neil...relax. There is nothing wrong with your engine. A small percentage of oil filters, of all brands, will have a slightly defective ADBV which will allow hot oil to be siphoned back into the engine sump, even if the open end of the filter points skyward.

Agreed.

Neil, did your oil pressure light come on? If not, this is not a big deal. In fact, my girlfriend's '93 MX-6 always has an empty filter when I remove it. I've tried Purolator and Wix and they all do it on that particular engine.
 
I'd try to eliminate the simple and less costly fixes first. Just take off this new oil filter and inspect it shortly afer shutdown. If it has oil in it, I'd attribute what you saw to either a defective oil filter. Then I'd delcare victory.

I wouldn't conclude yet from this evidence that I had a sludged motor. I've always used OEM filters, myself. If you took this in to the dealer and told them about it, I bet they would just remove your oil filter, and if it looked normal, they'd conclude there were no problems.

If you had a sludged motor wouldn't there be some evidence of that from either looking at the dipstick, inside the oil filler cap, or chunks of gunk (that's a technical term, gentlemen) draining out of the pan when you changed the oil?
 
do you have an oil pressure gauge? if so, does it raise immediately to engine spec range on start up, steady during cruise and only a minor drop of no more than 30% when at in gear stop light idle?

have you had any low oil light flashes or low oil pressure light flashes?

if your oil pressure meets these criteria, I would NOT worry, just a filter that the ADBV seeps a little back to crankcase

what does old oil look like when drained, any clumps or chunks?

since you have a know sludge pot, do several UOA's with TBN to get a base line and have Terry analyze for you....may save you an expensive engine replacement/rebuild

I personally would NOT run any synthetic oil in that engine longer than 5K with a quality filter change every OCI
do 2 ARX cycles on it and then religiously use LC and FP with only 1st quality major brand gas, 10% gasaholic hurts nothing and raises the fuel octane which you need with that engine spec'd for min. 91 octane...next year, all gas will be 10% min alcohol....
this is an engine which will bite you in the wallet if you go cheap on maintenance
 
Hello All and thanks for your replies.

First to clarify, when installed, the filter is on its side with very little if any tilt. Second, I switched from OEM to Purolator based off what I read on this site. The part # of the filter is L10241. This is what I have been using the last couple of filter changes.

I can believe that the oil was siphoned back into the engine after shutdown. My concern is that there are only trace amounts of oil left in the filter. I mean I could not empty a used filter this well if I tried. Again, from an appearance point of view, this filter looks like it was never used. There are no heat marks (discoloration), the gasket is like brand new, and the filter is as light as a new one.

The oil warning light never came on while the engine was running. Everything seemed fine prior to me removing the oil filter. No chunks of anything coming out during previous oil changes that I can recall.

So if this is caused by a faulty anti drain back valve, the only damage that may have been done is starting a dry engine with no immediate top end oil flow?

So I am OK changing to conventional with a new OEM filter, driving about 1000 miles, taking it to a dealer for their sludge analysis, having them change the oil (conventional) and filter and driving another 2000 - 3000 miles before changing back to synthetic? The only reason I am thinking about temporarily switching to conventional is cost as the oil will not used very long, having the dealer tell me the new oil filter is empty because synthetic flows better and flowed back to the pan, etc.

It will be hard for me to see if a new filter gets really hot as the filter is located right below the exhaust manifold. I have to wait for that to cool before I can think about touching the filter. But this is good suggestion. Worst case scenario, I loosen the filter and see if any oil drains out after driving the truck for a while. By the way, will tightening the same filter reseal everything?

My powertrain warranty runs out soon - another 7000 miles. Now if any problem is caused by sludge, I have another year of engine warranty, provided of course, I can prove it was sludge related.


Thanks everyone. You eased some of my fear.

Thanks..

Neil
 
Neil-

Here's a quick-n-dirty way to determine your engine oil status:

(1) when you start your car cold (go to ignition but before you crank your engine), check your dashboard to ensure that the enging oil light is on.

(2)crank (turnover) your engine while keeping your eyes peeled on the engine oil light, the moment your engine catches the spark and started to run, the "check engine oil" light should go away in no more than 3 seconds.

If you are able to observe the aforementioned steps w/o incident (meaning that after your engine started, the "oil light" stays off), your engine is in shipshape and the fault maybe just that little anti-drainback valve in your oil filter. While some BITOGERS here maybe anal enough to lay emphasis on that, I personally would not worry about it.

If, after you started your engine and the oil light stayed on for over 15 ~30seconds w/o going off or flickers throughout the course while your engine idles, you may have some oil pressure-related issues.

**************************************************
IMHO anti-drainback valve helps in the aid in building oil pressure quickly after the engine has been sitting overnight. Would a faulty anti-drainback valve on an oil filter cause major oil-related damage, startup and/or bearing wear?? IMHO not at all so long as your oil pump can build up the oil pressure quickly and you have no other engine related oil pressure/clearance issues (bearing clearances are all within spec., etc.)

Would I be concerned about "dry starts" and insufficient oil pressure during the startup first thing in the morning (after letting the engine sitting overnite)?? Nope.

I don't think a faulty anti-drainback valve would be of any serious concern granted that you have sufficient oil pressure and both (1) and (2) holds true. If you still having doubts, get a mechanic to undo your oil pressure sensor switch and substitute it with an oil pressure gauge and take a reading off of your engine to determine your oil pressure (psi).

I personally don't think your engine has suffered or damaged at all...

Besides, if you are having oil pressure related issues like no oil pressure build up, clogged oil pickup screens and such (sludge?LOL!), you'll instant know for you shall experience the horror of your life with the dreaded rod knock somewhere down the road, meaning that the damage is done for...

Sleep easy my friend, your engine is in good shape granted that you observe your OCI carefully.

p.s. "startup" wear is hyped up scams by infomercials who sell "stick50" or PTFE engine treatments. Even if you opt not to go for those snake additives, a typical engine shall still lasts way beyond 200,000miles+ given proper care, service and conservative OCI. top end wear? Like Scrooge sez" bahumbug"! Unless you accidentally fipped your car up side down and drained off the puddle of oil on your valvetrain area, otherwise, there shall be sufficient lubrication to keep your valve tappetty for a long time (grin)
 
quote:

Originally posted by Quest:


p.s. "startup" wear is hyped up scams by infomercials who sell "stick50" or PTFE engine treatments. Even if you opt not to go for those snake additives, a typical engine shall still lasts way beyond 200,000miles+ given proper care, service and conservative OCI. top end wear? Like Scrooge sez" bahumbug"! Unless you accidentally fipped your car up side down and drained off the puddle of oil on your valvetrain area, otherwise, there shall be sufficient lubrication to keep your valve tappetty for a long time (grin)


This is an excellent advice except fot the PS part.
Startup wear does exist but its due to combustion products (unburned gas, water and acids) condensing in the cylinder and interfering with cylinder liner/ring lubrication. Best prevented by block warmer.
 
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