I need help understanding if Redline or Amsoil is worth it.

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I have been using Amsoil in my cars since 1993 ( all their products ). one of my cars has almost 320,000 miles on it ( 2012 Civic ) and it doesn’t burn a drop. Engine sounds like new.

now, would it run just as good on any other oil I can buy at Walmart, of coarse so.

The reason I buy Amsoil is because I get just as good ( some with more knowledge say their transmission fluids are one of the best ) a product shipped right to my door at competitive prices ( preferred customer ).

Their Customer service is outstanding.

For me, it’s more than worth it.
 
The Civic runs like new. I almost wish it wouldn’t so I would have an excuse to buy a another car.

Oil changes as per the computer ( Honda OLM....” maintenance minder” ) ....12,000 mile oil drain intervals.
Still "lurking"?
 
Still "lurking"?
Nope. Been regularily visiting this site since 2002. I have seen members come and go over the years.

Why did I wait so long join? I have lots of downtime since I am not flying anymore and live in an area that had strict lockdowns and we could not do much except stay home so I decided to give it a try.

Not a fan of some of the interpersonal friction I have seen over the years but I will give it a try. lurking is o.k too.
 
Nope. Been regularily visiting this site since 2002. I have seen members come and go over the years.

Why did I wait so long join? I have lots of downtime since I am not flying anymore and live in an area that had strict lockdowns and we could not do much except stay home so I decided to give it a try.

Not a fan of some of the interpersonal friction I have seen over the years but I will give it a try. lurking is o.k too.
That darn Covid-19 couldn't have come at a better time! - Hell, yeah!
 
There is 0 (ZERO) evidence that any of those oils are any better.
Like I said numerous times, if they are that good, nothing stops them to get approvals for their oils. Approvals are very cheap. Amsoil has some, and usually do not have all of them combined like Castrol & Co have on their oils.
Approvals are designed so that you know you are getting oil that is fit for your engine.
Redline in particular is aimed at track/race applications. Problem is that people think that if it is oil made for track, it must be good for regular driving, which could not be farther from truth.
You'll see testers on Youtube like Project Farm showing that Amsoil and Red Line do perform better than the others. MactFordEdge actually has tested a number of these with Blackstone and is using Red Line Professional in his 2019 Edge Ecoboost ( Red Line has oils for a daily driver). Not having the approval you mentioned does not mean an oil is unfit for a vehicle though it might cause a warranty conflict. These expensive oils allow for extended drain intervals (I've used both with good results over the last 15 years and no engine problems). I am currently using Kendall's newly formulated GT 1 in a 2008 Sierra with very good results so far (free shipping and less than four dollars a quart from their website this past December. In a Ford Edge Duratec, I am using Red Line Performance Oil (bought on sale for about 10.00 a quart) along with an Amsoil filter. At 5000 miles there is almost no usage. For direct injection engines, it seems like oil testing should be used to determine the life span of either Amsoils or Red Line oils because of dilution.
 
You'll see testers on Youtube like Project Farm showing that Amsoil and Red Line do perform better than the others. MactFordEdge actually has tested a number of these with Blackstone and is using Red Line Professional in his 2019 Edge Ecoboost ( Red Line has oils for a daily driver). Not having the approval you mentioned does not mean an oil is unfit for a vehicle though it might cause a warranty conflict. These expensive oils allow for extended drain intervals (I've used both with good results over the last 15 years and no engine problems). I am currently using Kendall's newly formulated GT 1 in a 2008 Sierra with very good results so far (free shipping and less than four dollars a quart from their website this past December. In a Ford Edge Duratec, I am using Red Line Performance Oil (bought on sale for about 10.00 a quart) along with an Amsoil filter. At 5000 miles there is almost no usage. For direct injection engines, it seems like oil testing should be used to determine the life span of either Amsoils or Red Line oils because of dilution.
1. Redline Professional is repackaged Kendall.
2. Redline Performance is not suitable for extended OCI's. It has heavy Ester base and that does not fare well when it comes to oxidation.
3. Not having approval is much more than warranty. Approval guarantees oil will perform as expected in OCI that manufacturer recommends. Without approvals there is no guarantee. And considering Redline base stock in their performance series, it will not perform that way. But, Redline does not make performance series for that reason but to offer oil suitable for street/track use.
 
1. Redline Professional is repackaged Kendall.
2. Redline Performance is not suitable for extended OCI's. It has heavy Ester base and that does not fare well when it comes to oxidation.
3. Not having approval is much more than warranty. Approval guarantees oil will perform as expected in OCI that manufacturer recommends. Without approvals there is no guarantee. And considering Redline base stock in their performance series, it will not perform that way. But, Redline does not make performance series for that reason but to offer oil suitable for street/track use.
Correct. And additionally, YouTube and Project Farm don't know squat when it comes to a relevant test regarding motor oils. It's a pathetic resource for determining motor oil quality. Blackstone can't test for "quality" either but that's not their mission.

It gets pretty thick around here sometimes.
 
Is Amsoil SS still PAO based? It was rumored that they stopped using PAO.
MactFordEdge stated he had spoken with RedLine tech. They stated that their Performance Oil line and Amsoil (Signature) oils are close to near to forty percent esther (groups) based and the rest PAO (group iv). I believe that Amsoil Orginal equipment oil is a a group III/ group IV oil and thus certified by API as is Red Lines Professional Line.
 
MactFordEdge stated he had spoken with RedLine tech. They stated that their Performance Oil line and Amsoil (Signature) oils are close to near to forty percent esther (groups) based and the rest PAO (group iv). I believe that Amsoil Orginal equipment oil is a a group III/ group IV oil and thus certified by API as is Red Lines Professional Line.
You can speak to Redline tech. Just send an email to Dave.
 
MactFordEdge stated he had spoken with RedLine tech. They stated that their Performance Oil line and Amsoil (Signature) oils are close to near to forty percent esther (groups) based and the rest PAO (group iv). I believe that Amsoil Orginal equipment oil is a a group III/ group IV oil and thus certified by API as is Red Lines Professional Line.
So you are saying that their top oils are not API certified? Its kind of strange.
 
MactFordEdge stated he had spoken with RedLine tech. They stated that their Performance Oil line and Amsoil (Signature) oils are close to near to forty percent esther (groups) based and the rest PAO (group iv). I believe that Amsoil Orginal equipment oil is a a group III/ group IV oil and thus certified by API as is Red Lines Professional Line.
Which you can get a lot cheaper as Kendall.
 
MactFordEdge stated he had spoken with RedLine tech. They stated that their Performance Oil line and Amsoil (Signature) oils are close to near to forty percent esther (groups) based and the rest PAO (group iv). I believe that Amsoil Orginal equipment oil is a a group III/ group IV oil and thus certified by API as is Red Lines Professional Line.
MactFordEdge is as bad as YouTube and Project Farm when it comes to motor oil quality.
 
Buy the Red Line if it makes you feel better. For sure it will handle extreme temperatures created by a turbo better than most. It will also handle extreme cold temperatures and cold starts better than many. You may be well served just using Mobil 1. You are going to find that most posters on this site strive for the cheapest and longest lasting oil and interval they can get away with. They use BOTH sides of the toilet paper! If you want/need factory approvals but actually want a higher quotient of PAO/POE synthetic in the blend check out Ravenol. Looks like Honda requires a 0W20 with an API starburst only. Semi synthetic is ok.
Here is one of many to look at.

And the OP will find plenty of UOA and the discussion of Ravenol here: https://bit.ly/3qdrthK

Ed
 
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