I need brake pads and rotors for my F250

Do the rotors on this truck have the hub in them? Because in that case, OEM is a must due to the bearing that;s in it. Aftermarket bearings are often trash, especially cheap bearings they use in cheap aftermarket white box combination rotor+bearing

Even if it doesn't, the OE rotor has better corrosion resistance and likely better quality iron used in it. OEM is also your only chance of getting a non-Chinese rotor. If OEM is available at a decent price, there is no reason not to use them.
If it is 2WD the front will have the hub as part of the rotor. If it is 4WD then it is a slide on rotor on the front. The rears will slide onto the rear hubs no matter the drive style.
 
Do the rotors on this truck have the hub in them? Because in that case, OEM is a must due to the bearing that;s in it. Aftermarket bearings are often trash, especially cheap bearings they use in cheap aftermarket white box combination rotor+bearing

Even if it doesn't, the OE rotor has better corrosion resistance and likely better quality iron used in it. OEM is also your only chance of getting a non-Chinese rotor. If OEM is available at a decent price, there is no reason not to use them.
Didn’t think about that. I’ve never used OEM rotors or anything. I’ve had good luck with aftermarket not corroding but I’m also in the south.
 
Especially on the full size Transits, you don't get much room to machine the rear rotors. So we almost always sell rear pads, rotors, and the axle bolts all the time.
Oh that’s good to know. Do they no longer have the off car regular lathes for that anymore? I know my Toyota dealership had that one still and they recently got the on car one.
 
Oh that’s good to know. Do they no longer have the off car regular lathes for that anymore? I know my Toyota dealership had that one still and they recently got the on car one.
We have an off car lathe and on car. They both get plenty of use, but we still sell rotors fairly often. Some fleet accounts will not allow for machining and only replacement, especially police fleets.
 
Please let us know how they work out. I'm curious how the cold braking is.
Will do. I saw them at Amazon at a much lower price than anywhere else so I jumped on them. Still the most I have payed for pads on a street car. If they work as good as advertised they will be worth it.

Sounds like you have too little truck for hauling such a heavy trailer and should move to an F350. Maybe even a dually.
While I would never argue against a bigger truck, the one I have is suitable for my trailers. When I say I am pulling heavy, or something similar it is relative to the truck I am using. Except the last load which was way overweight and will not happen again. However, the truck I have does get used in the upper limits of it rating at times, especially with the black trailer.
 
Yeah but on a full stop the weight still transfers to the front axle. you can definitely tell the difference in brake dust on the wheels, my fronts look like garbage after only a few days.
Yes, the regular weight that always transfers at that retardation keeps transferring. However, brake hard enough and the fronts will likely lock up first, if the trailer is underbraked enough.
 
I’m just curious why you would go OEM on rotors? When I worked at the dealership that was one of the things that sat on the shelf for the longest time was rotors and it was mostly us that used them if anybody. I’ve never had bad luck with aftermarket rotors.
I brought this up as a topic in the past. In a scenario where there is likely to be a lot of heat buildup (like heavy towing) an OEM or high quality aftermarket rotor should work better than a lighter weight rotor when it comes to heat dissipation. Here is a video from Raybestos that explains the difference.


 
I brought this up as a topic in the past. In a scenario where there is likely to be a lot of heat buildup (like heavy towing) an OEM or high quality aftermarket rotor should work better than a lighter weight rotor when it comes to heat dissipation. Here is a video from Raybestos that explains the difference.



Wow didn’t know any of that.
 
When I replaced the front rotors on my 2wd 2007 F350 with 5.4, I used Wagner. The issue on the rotors is not the price, it is the shipping. They are super heavy and very costly to ship. And in my case, so heavy they were beat up during shipping- the boxes were trashed. I did install new wheel bearings while replacing the rotors.

If I could do it all over again, I would buy from a local Ford dealer that sells wholesale parts, and then try to get the price at a discount. When shipping is added in on these big boy rotors- buying from a local dealer may be a better overall deal.
 
I tow a lot and this is what I use for brake fluid- in both my trucks and all my cars. Makes stocking the fluid super easy.

pentosin brake fluid.jpg
 
Wagner semi-metallic pads, and whatever rotor you can get that’s close to OEM in weight and casting. If it’s a 2WD model with a old-school tapered spindle my SOP is to chuck the pre-installed races and install my own bearings.

Last time I checked, Motorcraft pads were made by Wagner - the label with the part number was a giveaway with size and font. Don’t know if that’s true anymore - if pads say Made in USA or Mexico, chances Driv(Wagner), Bosch, Akebono or NBK made them.
 
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