I get all the good ones......

4WD

Joined
Sep 21, 2010
Messages
18,479
Location
Texas
Difficult jobs done promptly ~ Impossible jobs take a little longer !
 

OVERKILL

$100 Site Donor 2021
Joined
Apr 28, 2008
Messages
48,060
Location
Ontario, Canada
Exceptional work as always thumbsup I thoroughly enjoy the sagas you share, they are always quite interesting and you detailing your steps truly showcases your expertise.
 
Joined
Jul 8, 2012
Messages
4,277
Location
Nashville, TN via Memphis
Originally Posted by incognito_2u
Nice job! I know that it was mentioned before, but you really should think about starting a YouTube channel. Would have loved to watch that diagnosis. thumbsup
This.
 

JC1

Joined
Nov 29, 2008
Messages
6,541
Location
Oshawa, Ontario Canada
Amazing Job Cline. I'm sure 90% or more of techs wouldn't figure that out or it would cost the customer a ton more.
Originally Posted by ls973800
Fantastic job and I enjoy reading your posts! You have also filled the void left by Click and Clack!!!!
+1 Who needs Click and Clack when we have Cline and Trav here! You two should should have a show....
 
Joined
Dec 30, 2005
Messages
6,169
Location
the canyons
Originally Posted by CBR.worm
So, do you think the trigger wheel was removed at some point for some other repair and not properly torqued/loctited?
Most likely a manufacturing defect. Any competent mechanic should be able to diagnose this, but there are too many code-reading parts-changers out there masquerading as competent mechanics. Good job, Cline.
 
Joined
Sep 27, 2015
Messages
3,647
Location
USA
The ECM could readily monitor the VPWR bus and throw a code if voltage is not proper. Guess they thought this sort of failure would be very uncommon.
 
Joined
Mar 20, 2015
Messages
9,931
Location
Virginia
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Exceptional work as always thumbsup I thoroughly enjoy the sagas you share, they are always quite interesting and you detailing your steps truly showcases your expertise.
Perfectly stated ^^^^^^^
 

clinebarger

Thread starter
Joined
Dec 19, 2013
Messages
6,039
Location
Fort Worth, Texas
Originally Posted by CBR.worm
So, do you think the trigger wheel was removed at some point for some other repair and not properly torqued/loctited?
There are 3 spot welds that hold the reluctor to the Phaser....They failed. Waiting for parts, Will update the thread when I dive back into it.
 

clinebarger

Thread starter
Joined
Dec 19, 2013
Messages
6,039
Location
Fort Worth, Texas
Originally Posted by P10crew
Good work! Do all them missing pieces end up in the pan? Hopefully
The reluctor didn't fall because the VVT solenoid mounts right in front of the Phaser., Most of the pieces were stuck the the Phaser housing because it's heavily magnetized.
 

clinebarger

Thread starter
Joined
Dec 19, 2013
Messages
6,039
Location
Fort Worth, Texas
Finished up the repair this mourning, Thought I'd share..... Pretty easy repair using a "Wedge" tool. *Bring up the cam gear timing marks, which is roughly 10 O'clock for the Intake cam & 1 O'clock for the Exhaust cam....Puts both cams in a neutral position where no spring pressure wants to rotate them. *Clean the area of the timing marks with some brake clean, Mark both timing marks on the corresponding chain links with a paint pen or white out....I prefer a paint pen *As a safety measure & I'm working by myself....I installed a breaker bar on the end of the Exhaust cam that will hit the core support & stop the cam if things went sideways. None of my Snap-on 3/8" extensions would fit the D-slot in the cam! Had to use a 40 year old, well worn Craftsman extension smile *Loosen the caps on the Intake cam, And remove the front one that also serves as a Thrust. I clamped a pair of Vise Grips on the cam so I could slide it from from my vantage point. *Install the "Wedge" firmly & squarely down between the chain.....This prevents the tensioner from ratcheting out, Gives a little slack in the chain, And if things go sideways....Prevents the chain from coming off the crank gear. *Remove the 3 Torx bolts attaching the gear to the cam, Slide the cam back while working the gear off. *Once the gear is loose, Hold the chain with one hand & work the gear out with the other. *Have the new Gear/Phaser within arms reach so you don't have to let go of the loose chain. *Work the chain onto the new gear while aligning the timing mark on the gear with the one on the chain. *Slide the cam forward & work it 'til the keyway aligns & the gear will seat, It's very noticeable! *Install one of the gear bolts & snug it up....Take a break smile *Put everything back together & torque all fasteners to factory specs. [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] [Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
 

clinebarger

Thread starter
Joined
Dec 19, 2013
Messages
6,039
Location
Fort Worth, Texas
I don't see a big market for this particular VVT Phaser, So I ordered one form my local Autozone.....Sure enough, It's a OE part with the FoMoCo markings ground off! [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] [Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
 
Joined
Jan 2, 2004
Messages
8,100
Location
California
Aisin does the same trick on their water pumps for Toyota - and I've seen OEM replacement glass from Pilkington that has the OE's name polished off or screened over with the Pilk logo. That job looks almost like replacing the timing chain and tensioner on a VW 2.0L TSI CCTA engine in some aspect - the cam phaser looks identical as well.
 
Joined
Sep 24, 2006
Messages
277
Location
midwest
poor design, can you imaging how strange the car would have been running before failure. would be easy enough to engineer it to bolt on. Probably saved Ford 5 cents a unit.
 
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