I get all the good ones......

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clinebarger

clinebarger

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Dec 19, 2013
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Fort Worth, Texas
2010 Ford Fusion with a Duratec 3.0L/6F35, Customer complaint being...... *Hard start (Long Crank time) *Transmission does not shift *Speedometer inoperative *Check Engine Lamp on (Needs state inspection) Further information gathered from customer..... *Vehicle stalled on the highway & would not crank. *Pulled the vehicle to an Autozone & was diagnosed as a faulty Transmission Range Switch per fault codes. *Vehicle was pulled to a repair shop & a new TRS was installed but apparently didn't fix it. *A wire was ran from the Ignition Switch directly to the Starter Solenoid by the same repair shop (I hope this wasn't done by a shop but can't verify) *Vehicle now cranks & runs but has the issues above. My initial observations...... *Engine cranks for @ 15 seconds before start up. *Vehicle is stuck in 5th gear, Slams into reverse (Max Line Pressure) *Gear/Range Indicator in the Cluster is inoperative. *Code Scan of all modules showed over 100 DTC's stored. With that many DTC's.....I screenshot 'em & clear them all out! Not about to weave through that mess! Got about every circuit code possible for the TRS (P0706, P0707, P1702, and P1705) with a KOEO self test. KOER self test revealed circuit DTC's for both Cam Sensors "CMP" (P0340, P0344, P0345, P0346, and P0349) No cam position signals will cause long crank times & was most likely the cause of the stall on the highway? Every diagnostic mechanic has to make a decision here......Using Fords diag/pinpoint charts is something I've learned NOT to follow! Decided to review a wiring diagram first. The TRS & Both CMP sensors use a Vehicle Power Reference (VPWR) which is Ford speak for a 12volt sensor power supply provided by the Engine Control Module. While the TRS & CMP sensors VPWR feed circuits are wired to separate pins on the ECM, They share the same circuit numbers LE111 & wire colors Violent/Green.....Meaning they share the same power supply within the PCM. Bank 2 CMP connector is fairly easy to get to, Unplugged it & sure enough.....It had no VPWR reference. According to my Power Probe III, It was completely Open! Bank 1 CMP connector is not easily accessible! So I lifted the vehicle & unplugged the TCM connector......No VPWR reference there either (Pin 18). Removed the right motor mount bridge & lifted the engine enough to access the Bank 1 CMP connector & unplugged it...... Viola........I now have VPWR reference! Shorted Bank 1 CMP sensor bringing down the VPWR is the smoking gun.....Right? I even reconnected Bank 2 CMP & the TCM connector.....VPWR remained steady/near battery voltage, Transmission now shifts, Gear indicator & Speedometer works, And it cranks without the jumper wire! However....I'm still getting ALL the CMP sensor codes as before, Including Bank 2 which is connected! Using my Scope backprobed onto Bank 2 CMP signal wire expecting to see a Zero to 12volt square wave signal....Thinking the ECM was simply freaking out with a missing Bank 1 CMP signal?.....WRONG, No signal/flatline! Well....Maybe I don't have a good connection, As I put my fingers on my T-Pin to make sure it's seated all the way in the connector.....I feel that something is hitting the sensor as the engine is idling. Removed Bank 2 CMP & find the tip is gone & chewed up. Removed the front valve cover & find the Reluctor/Tone Wheel has separated from the VVT Cam Phaser! So....I have a electrically shorted CMP sensor on Bank 1 & a Mechanically damaged CMP sensor on Bank 2, What are the odds???? I removed the Bank 1 CMP & plugged it into the Bank 2 connector.....& it instantly brought down the LE111 VPWR circuit! The vehicle needs a VVT Cam Phaser & both CMP sensors! WOW, One of the more interesting failures I've seen! [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] [Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
 
[censored], i never even thought that would have been possible. interesting diag and thanks for posting!
 
One more thing.....I considered that as the Reluctor took out the Bank 2 sensor.....It shorted & took out the Bank 1 sensor? Not that I know for sure & not about to test the theory with $53 a piece sensors.
 
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Whats the approximate labor hours and bill for this job looking like? Seems like an incredibly involved series of repairs.
 
Wow, nice job. I'd be inclined to bring any of our vehicles to your shop for a quality repair of anything....but it's a loong tow from CO to TX. Thanks for sharing~~
 
You are not far from me in Texas - should meet up because we sure could have a lot of fun with these vehicles. I like your style too - true root cause diagnosis, not parts throwing.
 
Judging by your last photo, you've found the hidden Mickey. Tell your customer that's what the issue was. Lol. In all seriousness, your diagnostic skills are impressive. Excellent job sorting through all that mess.
 
Originally Posted by dlundblad
Judging by your last photo, you've found the hidden Mickey. Tell your customer that's what the issue was. Lol. In all seriousness, your diagnostic skills are impressive. Excellent job sorting through all that mess.
+1 You impress me with your ability to properly diagnose!
 
Definitely an interesting find. Unlikely you'll have one like that again (with all those combination of failures ). Well done
 
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