Hyundai Engine Oil Selection

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1,169
Location
ottawa
Also take a look at lubegard oil supplement. Starting using this also. I can't handle a repair bill like that again. It was crazy.
 

STIcandy

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136
Location
Whitby Ontario Canada
Originally Posted by nicholas
I think its lubegard bio engine supplement. It's an amazon
Thanks I'll check it out! UPDATE: I just changed the oil with Quaker State advanced durability 5w-30 and an OEM filter. As expected when I took the filter out although it was dirty it also looked bone dry. I hate these [censored] canister filters! Took it for a long drive. At idle it seems to be quieter although maybe just my hearing things. Letting it sit for a while and we'll see how it is when I start it in another hour.
 

STIcandy

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Messages
136
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Whitby Ontario Canada
UPDATE: So I ran the QSGB for 400kms this week and it made no change in the rattle at start up. Me being me, I dropped it out and put in fresh Motul 8100 Xcess 5w-40. Started again today and the rattle still persists with no change in volume or duration. I have finally come to the conclusion that the grade isn't going to make a difference so at least I satisfied my own curiosity. Now on to my next questions. I ordered a couple sample kits from Blackstone today. My plan is now to run this current fill to 7000kms and then replace. I'd like to do some experimenting now for the purpose of answering a few questions. One being obviously I want to do an analysis to see what the wear metals and such are in the oil at my OCI. Second being I want to see what the end viscosity and TBN is at my OCI. My third train of thought is I'd also like to get an idea as to weather the Motul Xcess 5w-40 or the Motul Xclean EFE 5w-30 provides the better wear protection for this particular engine and how (if any) the oil has sheared. My ultimate goal in the end is to pick the best oil that can provide the adequate protection to lengthen my OCI to 10,000 kms (6200miles) To achieve these tests I figure I have to drain and refill at the next OCI with the same xcess oil that I'm using now and that next fill would be my first UOA. Then switch back to the xclean 5W-30 and run that for two more OCI's sampling on the second, both samples having the exact same mileage on the oil. I know conditions change, weather, temps etc will all be variable and that can effect results, But would these be valid tests? How long would you run the oil?
 

STIcandy

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Messages
136
Location
Whitby Ontario Canada
May have hit a little stroke of luck! 🤞🏻🤞🏻🤞🏻 Last fall I took the car in for an outter tie rod replacement and told them about the rattle. They keep it overnight and cold start it and tell me it's normal. Lead me to a TSB that says if it doesn't last for more than 30 SECONDS! No repair is required. Fast forward to yesterday.... So the car has been short tripped for the past 2 or 3 weeks. My wife was home from work so I decided to take the car for a good [censored] kicking (I drive 120km round trip on the highway daily) and fill it with gas for her. While I'm on the highway I noticed the steering "sticking" and leading right and left. A quick diagnosis and I knew it was the steering intermediate shaft. On the way home I decided to take it in for warranty (Extended to 160,000 kms 8 years). I tell him what I'm looking for and I leave it for the night. He calls me this morning and proceeds to tell me that they looked at my car. The steering shaft has been ordered but they also noticed the timing cover is leaking oil. So they submitted it all to the warranty company for authorization. He also proceeds to recommend a tune up with plugs, fuel injector flush, rear brake pads and rotors, front brake service and brake fluid flush. All this after I told him last night I was a licensed automotive mechanic and it needed an intermediate shaft. I tell him to call me back when he gets authorization and I'll decide what to do (just playing the game.) Advisor called me back and proceeds to tell me that everything has been authorized, $3000 worth, no questions about oil change receipts. I reminded him about the timing chain rattle, and he says to me, when we get it opened up, I'll call it in and tell them the chain is stretched and it needs new tensioner and guides as well. So as a show of good faith I authorized the tune up and injector flush to the tune of $500. I was considering letting them do the brakes as well but they want $800 dollars just to do rear pads, rotors, service, front service and brake flush. I can't swallow that when I get parts at trade cost for like $250 max. I'm hoping the oil pump is not an issue. I do find though that the filter is always dry when I take the cover off, add to that the flickering oil pressure light at start up and I'm concerned the anti drain back valve is defective. I'm thinking it may be part of the filter housing but not for sure. Any ideas?
 
Messages
112
Location
Arkansas
Quaker State gets my vote. Heck, Hyundai even prefers Quaker State...says it right in the manual. I use Quaker State 0w20 in my Hyundai IONIQ and it runs smooth as butta'!
 
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17,019
Location
Upper Midwest
Originally Posted by Tundra73
Quaker State gets my vote. Heck, Hyundai even prefers Quaker State...says it right in the manual. I use Quaker State 0w20 in my Hyundai IONIQ and it runs smooth as butta'!
You know why, right? Same reason as why BMW recommended Castrol for a long time. Right up until they... didn't. In short, no technical reason.
 
Messages
112
Location
Arkansas
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by Tundra73
Quaker State gets my vote. Heck, Hyundai even prefers Quaker State...says it right in the manual. I use Quaker State 0w20 in my Hyundai IONIQ and it runs smooth as butta'!
You know why, right? Same reason as why BMW recommended Castrol for a long time. Right up until they... didn't. In short, no technical reason.
Didn't say there was a reason, technical or otherwise. Don't care. Just pointing it out.
 
Messages
633
Location
Vancouver, Canada
The only reason they list Quaker State is they signed contract with them, in the past it was Total. Personally, I'd suggest using 5w-30 or 0w-30 if used in very cold winter conditions. 40 grade is actually gonna cause faster engine wear due to extra heat.
 

STIcandy

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Messages
136
Location
Whitby Ontario Canada
Quaker state? Nah I'll pass. Much better oils out there including the Motul I've been using. I am however going back to 5w-30 as it's holding up well in other vehicles I've been using it in (backed by UOA'S) and going to the 40wt never changed the rattle (well maybe slightly but not really). Hopefully this all goes well and the rattle is gone the 5w-30 should take it happily through the rest of its life.
 
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Messages
17,019
Location
Upper Midwest
Originally Posted by Tundra73
Didn't say there was a reason, technical or otherwise. Don't care. Just pointing it out.
Oh all right, never mind then. I mistook "smooth as butta'!" as caring.
 
Messages
112
Location
Arkansas
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by Tundra73
Didn't say there was a reason, technical or otherwise. Don't care. Just pointing it out.
Oh all right, never mind then. I mistook "smooth as butta'!" as caring.
No. It was a statement of fact.
 
Messages
477
Location
T-County, Ohio
I ran QS Ultimate 5w30 for a few oil changes, but decided to go back to Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 in my 2017 Hyundai Elantra 2.0L. No real reason, and Platinum is only $2 more for a 5qt jug. Now my local Wally World has the Hyundai filters in stock for something like $5.98, so I will be buying those and changing the filter every oil change from now on. In my manual, Hyundai shows that 5w20 and 5w30 can be used in temps that drop below 0. For temps regularly above, it shows I can use 10w30. May do that when I change the oil next time. L8R, Matt
 
Messages
1
Location
NY
I'll share my thoughts and try to explain to them... I use RP 5-20 or Amsoil into my Elantra. RP during summer, Amsoil the rest. I also use either Amsoil or RP oil filter because I think they are the best and my math is: 60$ for oil replacement. 180$ for a year. 1800$ for 10 years. For providing what I think is best oil and best filter for my car. Still beats the price of replacing engine... And here is why I am using RP and Amsoil. I do think they are the best. Pure and simple. RP has more cleaning agents, worse cold flow, that's why it is in my car during summer. I am using this in my 2 year old Elantra, and was using that system on last 3 years out of my old Nissan Versa. And I did try couple of other "high end" motor oils, including Pennzoil Ultra, Valvoline, etc. With RP and Amsoil my engine sounds quieter (always good with moving parts in my book) and I usually do get couple more MPG on average. And here is one thing that happened to me recently... I take my car to dealership because I have Hyndai care inlcuded, which means 3 years of free oil change. I see on the receipt that oil costs about 2$ per QT, I can't even imagine what oil they are putting in. Within 7-10 days I go to my friends house, drain oil, replace oil filter and put AO or RP... In November, had to go to business trip next day after shop visit and didn't had time to do my oil change... Trip got complicated and I ended up driving about 600 miles in 12 hours or so. I can't even explain difference how engine worked and sound of it at the beginning of the trip and at the end. I actually stopped couple of times to check my oil level because I was sure I was low or something. At the dealership they always put 3000m on the sticker for next visit, I assumed it was just a way for them to charge more, and that even cheap conventional oil should be good for more than 3K miles... Long story short, still on the business trip, I went to one of the stores that sell part and do maintenance work and got RP oil and filter in my car. I would prefer amsoil since cold weather was on its way, but RP was the best I could buy at that time. I could definitely tell that engine was working smoother and quieter, and still is, 3 months and about 1900 miles later. One thing I've read so many times in this forum is people saying it's not the brand of oil, it's how often you replace it, etc. which I agree, that's why I usually do it every 4 months or about 5K miles whatever comes first. But also it is very important what oil you put in your car.
 
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Messages
14,821
Location
Illinois
Originally Posted by Linctex
I'd run a full synthetic 0W-30 in the winter and a conventional 5W-30 in the summer.
Why? That's what we did in the early 60's. Such old school.
 
Messages
90
Location
Martha's Vineyard MA
"the flickering oil pressure light at startup " When this happened to me, the dealership service tech had failed to seat the little pecker on the bottom of the filter firmly in the cannister port. I do most of my own oil changes and learned from his mistake to be very careful with this.
 

STIcandy

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Messages
136
Location
Whitby Ontario Canada
Originally Posted by SHOPete
"the flickering oil pressure light at startup " When this happened to me, the dealership service tech had failed to seat the little pecker on the bottom of the filter firmly in the cannister port. I do most of my own oil changes and learned from his mistake to be very careful with this.
I'll have to watch for that. Although I always put some o-ring lube in that when I do it and install it into the houisng. I can't say it made a difference. In a side note, when you open your canister is there any oil retained in there at all? It seems to me when I used to change the filters on the GM ecotec and such the canister was at least half full with oil. When I drive mine in and open it up immediately, there is no oil at all retained in the housing or filter for that matter.
 
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STIcandy

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Messages
136
Location
Whitby Ontario Canada
****UPDATE****** Got the car back last night. I'm actually quite impressed it was finished so quickly. They claim that the timing chains have not streached at all (not sure how you'd know unless you actually took them off which they didn't) and the guides were in good condition. They said they didn't see anything wrong with the tensioners either, but because I had complained of it previously, Hyundai Canada good willed the tensioners with the extended warranty picking up the tab for the rest. I let them do the tune up, plugs, induction/injection flushes. The say they put synthetic into it because I told them that's what I was running. When I asked them what synthetic they use all they knew was it was Quaker State, I assume it's the QSUD. Anyways, it was nice and cold when I got it. Started her up and no rattle. This morning I woke up to -30C and me being me I went out and remote started it right beside the engine to hear how it started. So far so good. Lots of driving planned for this (Canada) long weekend. We'll see how everything pans out. I've got 2200kms until the next OCI, planning on changing it again to get any contaminants from the repair out, probably put my Motul back into it and start some UOA'S on this one. OH ALMOST FORGOT! They took some pictures of the engine when it was apart. Quite happy with the way the Motul has been keeping it clean: [Linked Image] [Linked Image] [Linked Image] [Linked Image] [Linked Image] [Linked Image]
 
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