Hyundai, oil recommendation

[Androctonus]

Hello all,

2013 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport 2.0T with 13000 miles

owner's manual recommends: API SM, SAE 5W30, ILSAC GF-4 (also acceptable is 10W30 and SL). No oil type mentioned (conventional vs synthetic per se).

oci = 5k normal/3k severe (miles)


Living in Miami, Fl. I drive pretty normal, 40-45 mph city and 65 hwy using cruise control.

Work round trip is 40 miles, a steady 45 mph 70% and 30% hwy the rest. Stop and go for 5 miles on occasion (once/wk for 5 miles).

No towing, no racing, no hills, no winter.

I currently use Quaker State Advanced Durability. Have used, Valvoline Premium Conventional and FF. I keep my intervals between 3-4k miles ( Hyundai Filter)

 

[Merkava_4]

It says you can use 10w30 above 0* F.

Are you planning on being below 0* F in Miami ?

 

[Androctonus]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
It says you can use 10w30 above 0* F.

Are you planning on being below 0* F in Miami ?


I listed 10w30 as also being acceptable.

Jk, right?

 

[Rolla07]

Pennzoil Conventional 5w30 or keep using what you are using..3-4 k intervals and mild driving should do just fine on almost any oil. I wouldnt see any point to run thicker..

 

[tswm]

Originally Posted By: Androctonus
I currently use Quaker State Advanced Durability. Have used, Valvoline Premium Conventional and FF.


After FF, you proceeded to utilize arguably the most ideal oils for helping to break in a new engine, Valvoline conventional (low SAPS) and Quaker State Conventional (low to mid SAPS). You did not utilize Mobil 1 5W30 which I suspect is mostly Group III but also contains some weak form of PAO. Congratulations on a choice well made, happy motoring.

 

[michaelluscher]

Since your post break in
Because Turbo
Because Florida
Because DI
I'd bump up to Pennzoils Platinum, or whatever they're calling it this week

. 5w30 would be appropriate
If $25 is too much for the budget to bear, $17~ Pennzoil Gold bottle syn blend is a excellent option.
Many Hyundai owners have made/kept there engines quieter on Quaker State Ultimate Durability, which is also reasonably priced at $22~.
I'd OEM the filter
The "fuel treatment" they call for @ 7.5k is just Techron
Pick it up at any local parts store when its BOGO.

 

[Androctonus]

Originally Posted By: tswm
Originally Posted By: Androctonus
I currently use Quaker State Advanced Durability. Have used, Valvoline Premium Conventional and FF.


After FF, you proceeded to utilize arguably the most ideal oils for helping to break in a new engine, Valvoline conventional (low SAPS) and Quaker State Conventional (low to mid SAPS). You did not utilize Mobil 1 5W30 which I suspect is mostly Group III but also contains some weak form of PAO. Congratulations on a choice well made, happy motoring.

thank you, all by chance I promise you.

Originally Posted By: michaelluscher
Since your post break in
Because Turbo
Because Florida
Because DI
I'd bump up to Pennzoils Platinum, or whatever they're calling it this week

.


Thanks for the welcome. I'm usually of the mindset that if the om does not call for it, I won't use synthetic, especially at my oci and driving style. Do you think it's a must or just added security?

 

[dave1251]

Just buy what is on sale that meets your warranty requirements outlined in your owners manual. Change per owners manual and you will not have to worry about a oil related failure.

 

[Merkava_4]

10W-30 full synthetic because it's a turbo and you're in Florida.

But not Mobil 1 unless it's the high mileage version.

 

[Androctonus]

I have read lot's of threads indicating that it doesn't really matter what oil is used (conv or syn) because of the dilution. The only preventative maintenance is conservative change intervals. At these very low intervals, todays conventional oil protects just as well. Is this not a good train of thought?

dave1251, the Hyundai Service Tech at my dealership agrees with you totally.

I also don't drive during mid day Florida heat because I'm working. I drive in the morning 75° f and same at night when going home. Is there something else about living in Florida that I'm missing?

 

[accent2012]

If you are doing your own changes, just use synthetic.
Hyundai engines love synthetic.

 

[Merkava_4]

It's an unwritten rule around here that you're supposed to use full synthetic if it's a turbo application.

 

[Androctonus]

Originally Posted By: accent2012
If you are doing your own changes, just use synthetic.
Hyundai engines love synthetic.


On the Hyundai forums I get both views as well. Some say syn, some say conv.

 

[Androctonus]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
It's an unwritten rule around here that you're supposed to use full synthetic if you got a turbo.


Ok, got it. But I also owned a stock 2004 WRX that ran conv for 200,000 miles (GTX). This can be confusing.

 

[Merkava_4]

MaxLife 10w30 would probably take care of it just fine.

If you want something sportier in a bright red bottle, you could go Motorcraft.

 

[HTSS_TR]

I don't own any Turbo or DI engine, but if I do I will only use synthetic for it.

Everyday price of 5 quart jug at Walmart is $25 for name brand synthetic, a name brand dino is about $15-17. Not much difference between the two, and consider that synthetic can extend OCI by 3-4k miles over dino in a turbo/DI engine the extra cost of synthetic is justified.

 

[Androctonus]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
MaxLife 10w30 would probably take care of it just fine.

If you want something sportier in a bright red bottle, you could go Motorcraft.


Can Maxlife be used in a new car?

 

[Androctonus]

Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
I don't own any Turbo or DI engine, but if I do I will only use synthetic for it.

Everyday price of 5 quart jug at Walmart is $25 for name brand synthetic, a name brand dino is about $15-17. Not much difference between the two, and consider that synthetic can extend OCI by 3-4k miles over dino in a turbo/DI engine the extra cost of synthetic is justified.


I hear you but today, Mobil Super 5000 was $12 at WM. Havoline, Mobil Super and Quaker State are all cheaper than $15 there too. Plus I cannot extend my OCI past 5k miles because of the warranty.

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: Androctonus

Can Maxlife be used in a new car?


Yes, it's a synthetic blend with extra seal conditioners in it.

If you start using it from day 1, you'll probably never have a leak.

 

[AndrewD]

On a turbocharged car, I would use synthetic exclusively.