HPL SAE 40 PCMO

I agree @kschachn. Sorry but I typed the pour point comment after reviewing several SAE 40 motor oils of all varieties and, even as an organic chemist, I marvel at the ability of PAOs specifically in reducing the pour point.

I went back and reread @OVERKILL 's SAE J300 Viscosity Grades thread (while being mentally amazed at how low that HPL SAE40 PCMO pour point is for a 40 grade). I trust the winter ratings even more with the abundance of such quality, PAO oils (all brands).

Succinctly, modern PAOs and VIIs boost my winter oil performance confidence.
 
Thank you Hohn. Appreciate your information on the SAE40 HPL oil.

While my existing oil in the 5.7 Hemi 2022 RAM is HPL Premium Plus PCMO 0W-20, I have been talking with Dave at HPL about moving my motor's oil diet to HPL Supercar 0W-40 for my truck's year-round oil and something along the lines of 10K OCIs +/-.

The cold pour point of the HPL SAE40 is impressive to say the least but I remain a bit uncomfortable entertaining the mental idea of using it with the unpredictability of central Indiana's weather.

I have seen similar starter cranking effects in winter just with switching to a high cold cranking amp AGM-style battery. No cranking troubles at all (albeit 0W-20 still in the sump at present). I am a 3 years use and replace with a new battery follower.
I’d recommend considering a step up in viscosity, but not going with Supercar. My argument goes something like this:

1) Supercar is an old school high Ca add pack that, while very effective, is mostly effective at elevated oil temps that most of us in street duty do not see. Mg-based detergents like in the PCMO and PPCMO can work better in engines that see prolonged lower to moderate temps as they activate at lower temperatures— or such was suggested by my prior research on this.

2) I’m not sold on the idea that super thin base oils plus star polymer is the way to go for a street engine. Star polymers are still polymers and they still have generally worse oxidation resistance than base oils does. And when you have a wide-range viscosity oil using star polymer, it limits how much low-VI AN you can add because the loss of viscosity index from the AN means you have to add even more VII to offset it.

3) In a street based commuter, I think you want as much AN content as a blend can afford. And since AN is a very low-VI base oil, that means a low VI oil unless you try to offset it with VII, which IMO is mildly counterproductive since VIs reduce oxidation resistance.


Star polymers are a wonder for VI flexibility, but they are still hydrogenated polymers with worse oxidation resistance than AN or or any highly saturated paraffinic base oil. And that means the VI content is going to put more load on the antioxidant package.

A modern 0w-40 using star polymer has a lot less VII than a PMA based 0w-40 from years ago. But they do not eliminate the fundamentally high VII load of such a wide span oil compared to a 5w-40 or 0w-30 using similar VII.

I’m of the mind that star polymers are much improved VIIs but they are still VIIs and less VII is better than more because you can spend that formulation budget elswhere.

If you aren’t comfortable running the 15w-40 PCMO I’m using, I’d recommend the PPCMO 5w-40. It’s going to have a bit thinner base and a bit higher VII load, but it’s star polymers vs OCP in the 15w-40. But it keeps the street-friendly D1G2 add pack that i think will run a bit cleaner in in commuter duty than Supercar would.

If you do want the extra strong Supercar add pack, consider the 5w-40 (same as Euro) instead of the 0w-40. The 5w-40 is a bombproof oil and needs less VII while delivering 5w that is sufficient for almost everyone in the lower 48 when it’s PAO based like the Supercar series is. This is because the PAOs have a much less steep cliff in terms of how they thicken below the rated winter rating. So you can make a 5w PAO oil work in temps where many people would think they need a 0w, which isn’t really the case.
 
I’d recommend considering a step up in viscosity, but not going with Supercar. My argument goes something like this:

1) Supercar is an old school high Ca add pack that, while very effective, is mostly effective at elevated oil temps that most of us in street duty do not see. Mg-based detergents like in the PCMO and PPCMO can work better in engines that see prolonged lower to moderate temps as they activate at lower temperatures— or such was suggested by my prior research on this.

2) I’m not sold on the idea that super thin base oils plus star polymer is the way to go for a street engine. Star polymers are still polymers and they still have generally worse oxidation resistance than base oils does. And when you have a wide-range viscosity oil using star polymer, it limits how much low-VI AN you can add because the loss of viscosity index from the AN means you have to add even more VII to offset it.

3) In a street based commuter, I think you want as much AN content as a blend can afford. And since AN is a very low-VI base oil, that means a low VI oil unless you try to offset it with VII, which IMO is mildly counterproductive since VIs reduce oxidation resistance.


Star polymers are a wonder for VI flexibility, but they are still hydrogenated polymers with worse oxidation resistance than AN or or any highly saturated paraffinic base oil. And that means the VI content is going to put more load on the antioxidant package.

A modern 0w-40 using star polymer has a lot less VII than a PMA based 0w-40 from years ago. But they do not eliminate the fundamentally high VII load of such a wide span oil compared to a 5w-40 or 0w-30 using similar VII.

I’m of the mind that star polymers are much improved VIIs but they are still VIIs and less VII is better than more because you can spend that formulation budget elswhere.

If you aren’t comfortable running the 15w-40 PCMO I’m using, I’d recommend the PPCMO 5w-40. It’s going to have a bit thinner base and a bit higher VII load, but it’s star polymers vs OCP in the 15w-40. But it keeps the street-friendly D1G2 add pack that i think will run a bit cleaner in in commuter duty than Supercar would.

If you do want the extra strong Supercar add pack, consider the 5w-40 (same as Euro) instead of the 0w-40. The 5w-40 is a bombproof oil and needs less VII while delivering 5w that is sufficient for almost everyone in the lower 48 when it’s PAO based like the Supercar series is. This is because the PAOs have a much less steep cliff in terms of how they thicken below the rated winter rating. So you can make a 5w PAO oil work in temps where many people would think they need a 0w, which isn’t really the case.
Thank you @Hohn. I always appreciate your willingness to help and educate!

The suggestion of the 5W-40 Supercar is an attractive option to me. I desire the absolute best in AW because of all of the issues with lifter and camshaft wear in the 5.7 Hemi motor (I do understand that my 2022 Ram mist likely has the updated German lifters @OVERKILL has mentioned several times). Quite honestly, I do not trust Fiat Chrysler Automobiles as a company any further than I can throw them (don’t ask me why).

That said, I do have a few comments and questions.

First, is the VII concentration (star polymer) that much higher in 0W-40 versus 5W-40 (say, in the HPL Supercar oils)? Where are you “drawing the line” on VII levels and why?

As far as my HPL Supercar oil choice, I am adamant about my motor’s internals being protected as best as can be against engine wear while also staying very clean inside. As such, it would seem to be oil with the best PAO base oils and a stout additive package (as HPL Supercar seems to provide).

Additionally, I regularly haul around 1,200-lbs of tools and materials for my construction work in the bed and a Decked drawer system. I placed anywhere from 18,000 to 25,000 miles on the truck every year. During my travels in the heat of summer, 220 to 240 degrees F coolant temperatures are pretty normal.

With this in mind, I would expect the elevated temperatures during use would be better served with old school high Ca in the add pack of the oil. This truck normally experiences long drives at 70-80mph on interstates usually without towing any trailers). With 104,000+ miles on the odometer already, the 5.7 Hemi burns zero oil to date (so I think my catalytic converter is fine with the high Ca and ZDDP level).

Perhaps I am an outlier in my truck use and my line of thinking but it seems appropriate to me (please feel free to correct me if you believe I am in error or not pursuing best practice; I am receptive to constructive criticism).

So I believe I am leaning to the HPL 5W-40 Supercar PCMO at present. 😎
 
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I don't try to draw any lines on VII, I just want to minimize it. VIIs are among the least oxidatively stable elements of the oil blend. And while star polymers are amazingly resistance to mechanical shear, they are roughly comparable to OCP in terms of oxidation resistance.

The PAO base of Supercar/Euro will give you superior base oil oxidation resistance. Oxidation resistance is arguably the most important aspect of engine cleanliness as almost all forms of deposits come down to oxidation.

The GTL bases in PCMO have trace impurities that reduce oxidative stability. But again, the total oxidation resistance is a function of the final blend, not just the base oils. The PCMO's base oil disadvantage is almost fully offset by 1) lower VI allowing higher AN content, and 2) lower total VII content.


That's why I like the 5w-40 Supercar (AKA 5w-40 Euro; same oil) as a lower VII content oil that still gives you all of what you love about a 0w-40 Supercar. If you don't need 0w, there's no advantage to pursuing it; you're getting premium top shelf PAO bases either way.

IMO the main distinction between the Supercar and PCMO oils is the additive strategy.

The old school Calcium based additives in Supercar are better at prolonged higher temp and higher load. Ca-based detergents have a broader range of acids they can neutralize. This is why you see so many MB229.5/A40/VW502.00 spec oils use strong Ca-based packages. This is because those test cycles emphasize prolonged high temps and loads and evaluate piston cleanliness.

So how is it that so many customers using these premium Euro-spec oils like Castrol 5w-40 ended up with stuck rings and oil burning in VW/Audi engines?

IMO, it's because they bought engines and oils validated for Autobahn usage and then drove them like American grocery getters with lower temps, lots of fuel dilution, higher moisture levels, etc.


Sludge and lower-temp deposits are where the Mg-based additive packages of the PCMO/PPCMO/Preminum Plus PCMO oils are IMO better suited. IMO they work better for the specific kinds of deposits known to happen in modern TGDI engines. It's not just about avoiding LSPI; the Supercar series is not an LSPI risk IMO even though it has high Ca. Rather, it's about the DI package and what its most effective at addressing.


It sounds to me like your application is much closer to the Supercar use case than many of us are. I think your selection of 5w-40 Supercar (buy it as the 5w-40 Euro; it's the same oil) is not only defensible, it's probably PERFECT for your use case. You're running your vehicle hard enough that dilution and moisture are not problems and varnish and harder carbon are more likely to be issues than water and fuel dilution or sludge.

The EP package of Supercar is second to none and the broad spectrum Ca detergent package is going to be super effective in your usage.

If your duty cycle become closer to grocery getter duty, it's possible the Preminum Plus PCMO series would be preferable as the Mg-heavy package is superb at cold/wet/sooty kind of deposits associated with start stop duty cycles, lower temps and short trips.

The Star polymer and PAO base of both the Euro/Supercar and Preminum Plus PCMO makes for a brute tough oil in extreme pressure or load conditions. The pressure/viscosity coefficients on these are steep and the film load capability is extreme. There's a minor traction penalty of course, so slightly higher traction heating and pumping losses in some places, but minor.

Like for like, the GTL PCMO based will probably deliver better mpg and "feel" more like a thinner oil. The Supercar/Euro/Preminum Plus PCMOs will have the opposite, with traction higher than the HTHS might suggest.

In either case, the PAO/Star base is unbelievably strong, you just want to pick the additive strategy (Euro/Ca+ or D1g2/Mg+) that suits your usage better.

EDIT to add: if you want the ultimate in cleanliness and oxidation resistance, the NO-VII oils are where you want to be. I doubt you could possibly exceed the load carrying ability of the 10w-30 No VII Euro oil. So you can get the cleanliness of no-VII with protection that is equal to anything your Hemi can dish out.
 
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In either case, the PAO/Star base is unbelievably strong, you just want to pick the additive strategy (Euro/Ca+ or D1g2/Mg+) that suits your usage better.

EDIT to add: if you want the ultimate in cleanliness and oxidation resistance, the NO-VII oils are where you want to be. I doubt you could possibly exceed the load carrying ability of the 10w-30 No VII Euro oil. So you can get the cleanliness of no-VII with protection that is equal to anything your Hemi can dish out.
Your first comment (above quote) is exactly the information I have been indirectly looking for. Thank you!
 
Your first comment (above quote) is exactly the information I have been indirectly looking for. Thank you!
My pleasure. It shocking as it is to consider, there are some situations where the PCMO might be a better performer than Supercar. Not because Supercar is inferior in any way; but rather, because the “optimal” oil can only be formulated for ONE set of constraints. Shift those constraints and it’s not optimal anymore.

Mg-led additive packages *in some applications* can perform better than Ca-led detergent packages more common in Euro and higher SAPS oils. TGDI engines prone to dilution are a classic case where the PCMO D1G2 add pack might actually work better than a 229.5-style Euro add pack that will have higher Calcium.

Supercar is, as the name suggests, is essentially a streetable long-drain racing oil that just happens to have superior oxidation resistance and a very robust detergent adn AW/EP packages. Is sort of the hybrid offspring of a high-detergent fleet oil and a superbly robust racing oil. In terms of peak film load and EP/boundary performance, I think there’s no doubt the Supercar add pack would have the highest ultimate failure load in boundary conditions. It has the right chemistry for that.

But most engines now (IMO) don’t have a wear problem, they have cleanliness and deposit problem. This is where you want your detergent package to be tuned for the kinds of deposits most likely to occur in your particular usage.

So while it’s tempting to assume that Supercar is automatically the best because it uses the most expensive ingredients, it’s possible that the benefit of Supercar is lost on your for a particular application and that the basic PCMO series or PPCMO might offer similar wear protection with potentially even better cleanliness with the D1G2 add pack.

In my mind, the PAO oils with full SAPS Ca-based DI packs are better for high temperature usage, high loads and such. If you are towing heavy or tracking or just driving with a lead foot in hot ambients, the are the better option to assure cleanliness.

But if you have a TGDI or GDI commuter that loafs along on the highway or slugs through traffic from light to light with nothing sexy, you probably want the D1G2 type additive packages that are so good at preventing sooty agglomeration fuel-dilution related deposits at lower temperatures.
 
I don't see many people on here running this oil (especially in cars in the northern states) and I would never run it in the state that I'm currently living. Also, I didn't know this is the best all-year-round oil. The thing I see - it's not marketed properly.
It may not be marketed properly to the average consumer.

But regular consumer sales, like BITOG members, or the average Joe changing his oil, are not the target market for the company, or for this product.

Consumer sales are a tiny fraction of HPL sales.

Spending a lot of marketing effort on a group that is less than 1% of their sales doesn’t make sense.
 
My pleasure. It shocking as it is to consider, there are some situations where the PCMO might be a better performer than Supercar. Not because Supercar is inferior in any way; but rather, because the “optimal” oil can only be formulated for ONE set of constraints. Shift those constraints and it’s not optimal anymore.

Mg-led additive packages *in some applications* can perform better than Ca-led detergent packages more common in Euro and higher SAPS oils. TGDI engines prone to dilution are a classic case where the PCMO D1G2 add pack might actually work better than a 229.5-style Euro add pack that will have higher Calcium.

Supercar is, as the name suggests, is essentially a streetable long-drain racing oil that just happens to have superior oxidation resistance and a very robust detergent adn AW/EP packages. Is sort of the hybrid offspring of a high-detergent fleet oil and a superbly robust racing oil. In terms of peak film load and EP/boundary performance, I think there’s no doubt the Supercar add pack would have the highest ultimate failure load in boundary conditions. It has the right chemistry for that.

But most engines now (IMO) don’t have a wear problem, they have cleanliness and deposit problem. This is where you want your detergent package to be tuned for the kinds of deposits most likely to occur in your particular usage.

So while it’s tempting to assume that Supercar is automatically the best because it uses the most expensive ingredients, it’s possible that the benefit of Supercar is lost on your for a particular application and that the basic PCMO series or PPCMO might offer similar wear protection with potentially even better cleanliness with the D1G2 add pack.

In my mind, the PAO oils with full SAPS Ca-based DI packs are better for high temperature usage, high loads and such. If you are towing heavy or tracking or just driving with a lead foot in hot ambients, the are the better option to assure cleanliness.

But if you have a TGDI or GDI commuter that loafs along on the highway or slugs through traffic from light to light with nothing sexy, you probably want the D1G2 type additive packages that are so good at preventing sooty agglomeration fuel-dilution related deposits at lower temperatures.
In terms of chasing optimal, this certainly seems accurate for lining up goals to usage contexts.

I recall even Amsoil’s Signature Series used to be primarily a high Calcium dosed extended drain oil when they first came out with that line. It has long since been tweaked for more magnesium/lowered calcium in the SS lineup; although I’m not sure if it’s considered mid-SAPS or full?

Also, for clarity you aren’t necessarily saying deposits will occur using Supercar, but might or possibly could if driven at lower temps; so the approach is avoiding the scenario all together? Because, to me, I’d be surprised if deposits were an issue with the kind of ingredients HPL uses vs say an OTS synthetic full SAPS.

Thanks
 
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In terms of chasing optimal, this certainly seems accurate in terms of lining up goals to usage contexts.

I recall even Amsoil’s Signature Series used to be primarily a high Calcium dosed extended drain oil when they first came out with that line. It has long since been tweaked for more magnesium/lowered calcium in the SS lineup; although I’m not sure if it’s considered mid-SAPS or full?

Also, for clarity you aren’t necessarily saying deposits will occur using Supercar, but might or possibly could if driven at lower temps; so the approach is avoiding the scenario all together? Because, to me, I’d be surprised if deposits were an issue with the kind of ingredients HPL uses vs say an OTS synthetic full SAPS.

Thanks
Mid vs full SAPS doesn't really have to do with Ca vs Mg because both sulfonates are metallic and will form ash when burned. This is the "sulphated ash" that is the SA part of SAPS. SAPS is more about the total amount of additive and detergency, not the constituent components of it. Note, the many newer ashless detergents and dispersant can provide very robust detergency while still being "low SAPS" because they make no ash when burned. Ash is essentially a metallic phenomenon, so ashless means basically "non metallic."

"Full SAPS" basically is a term of art that I take to mean allowing SA levels over 1%. This is essentially the SA limit of API CJ-4 and later in diesel specs.

Amsoil's shift to Mg-base is what everyone else mostly did also because of the LSPI requirements for SN+ and later, and the learning that Ca is an LSPI aggravator.

I'm not saying deposits will occur using Supercar, I'm just saying it might not be the best tool for EVERY job. It's IMO perhaps the best tool for particular kinds of jobs, those that tend to create higher temps. It's closer to racing oil and high SAPS Euro oils-- designed for elevated temperatures and particular kinds of deposit prevention (i.e. excellent against hard carbon and varnish).

But for colder, wetter kinds of deposits, the PCMO Mg-based add pack is likely more effective. Keep in mind, HPLs additives are VERY robust, and even the PCMO series is still going to have 1200ppm or so of Ca. But it's going to have Mg:Ca in about a 2:1, which is a known sweet spot for balancing the high temp, broad spectrum Ca with lower-temp, soot-and-sludge focused Mg.

In other words, even the PCMO has way more calcium than a lot of other SP-based oils. Likewise, the Supercar has a lot more Mg than other high-Ca oils.

HPL oils, in either formulation, are superbly balanced and effective in detergency. It's just that supercar and D1G2 based add packs have slightly different areas of emphasis.

As reference values, the PCMOs will typically have 2200ppm of Mg and 1200 or so of Ca. Supercar has more like 1000ppm of Mg and 2800 of Ca.

Contrast that with API SN 0w-40FS with 3400ppm Ca and effectively NO Mg. Or with SP-vintage Euro FS with 1400Ca and 1100 mg.|

The HPL PCMO has almost as much Ca as the Euro-FS "full SAPS" which is leaning on Ca primarily and has less than half as much Mg.


So whether you get SuperCar or PCMO, you are getting a highly enriched, extremely robust detergency package that crushes even other "full SAPS" oils and even some 50 grade oils (like Mobil 1 Supercar 5w-50).

Combining these packages with the super effective aminic antioxidants and oxidation resistant base oil blends (AN+ PAO or AN+GTL) and you have an oil that not only oxidizes very little but immediately addresses that tiny bit of oxidation with a very stout detergent package designed to arrest deposits in their infancy.
 
The EP package of Supercar is second to none and the broad spectrum Ca detergent package is going to be super effective in your usage.

If your duty cycle become closer to grocery getter duty, it's possible the Preminum Plus PCMO series would be preferable as the Mg-heavy package is superb at cold/wet/sooty kind of deposits associated with start stop duty cycles, lower temps and short trips.

The Star polymer and PAO base of both the Euro/Supercar and Preminum Plus PCMO makes for a brute tough oil in extreme pressure or load conditions. The pressure/viscosity coefficients on these are steep and the film load capability is extreme. There's a minor traction penalty of course, so slightly higher traction heating and pumping losses in some places, but minor.

Like for like, the GTL PCMO based will probably deliver better mpg and "feel" more like a thinner oil. The Supercar/Euro/Preminum Plus PCMOs will have the opposite, with traction higher than the HTHS might suggest.

In either case, the PAO/Star base is unbelievably strong, you just want to pick the additive strategy (Euro/Ca+ or D1g2/Mg+) that suits your usage better.

EDIT to add: if you want the ultimate in cleanliness and oxidation resistance, the NO-VII oils are where you want to be. I doubt you could possibly exceed the load carrying ability of the 10w-30 No VII Euro oil. So you can get the cleanliness of no-VII with protection that is equal to anything your Hemi can dish out.

With so much traction and traction penalty throughout this thread, may I ask what kind of road you're coming down on it? I get it that it's not about traction drives / variators. But what work are you looking into when arriving at your ideas? Two-stroke niches? Hydraulics? Or the 40 degree Celsius anomaly theme? Some acute SAE-40 context, some glass maybe? https://oil-glup.ru/threads/reologija.391/#post-24088

Appears to be universally influencial (pumping aspects, thin film or elasto-hydrodynamic or else) while somehow not the ubiquituous spec on every listing and basically never truly spelled out. What's going on?
 
With so much traction and traction penalty throughout this thread, may I ask what kind of road you're coming down on it? I get it that it's not about traction drives / variators. But what work are you looking into when arriving at your ideas? Two-stroke niches? Hydraulics? Or the 40 degree Celsius anomaly theme? Some acute SAE-40 context, some glass maybe? https://oil-glup.ru/threads/reologija.391/#post-24088

Appears to be universally influencial (pumping aspects, thin film or elasto-hydrodynamic or else) while somehow not the ubiquituous spec on every listing and basically never truly spelled out. What's going on?
I recognize some English words in there, but I'm at a loss trying to decipher anything from it. Can you ask your question more succinctly and specifically?
 
Well, could you for example point to a bit of exemplary data regarding traction anywhere to help me get a grip as to what you're trying to convey?
 
Well, could you for example point to a bit of exemplary data regarding traction anywhere to help me get a grip as to what you're trying to convey?
I've only spoken in generalities. VII raises traction. Higher viscosity raises traction. For my purposes, I want the lowest traction I can get for a given HTHS as that will lower temperatures, improve engine cooling and flow through the engine while preserving all the good things about HTHS.

Thinner oils are lower traction. So if you can get the protection of thicker oil's higher HTHS at a lower traction penalty, you should do so if possible.

But virtue of the GTL base and having no VIIs whatsoever, the PCMO SAE 40 should have about the lowest practical traction relative to its stout HTHS.
 
In my mind, the PAO oils with full SAPS Ca-based DI packs are better for high temperature usage, high loads and such. If you are towing heavy or tracking or just driving with a lead foot in hot ambients, the are the better option to assure cleanliness.

But if you have a TGDI or GDI commuter that loafs along on the highway or slugs through traffic from light to light with nothing sexy, you probably want the D1G2 type additive packages that are so good at preventing sooty agglomeration fuel-dilution related deposits at lower temperatures.
This is a really thoughtful and insightful analysis. Thank you. Might inform my oil choice, as I am firmly in the short trip, multiple cold and warm starts, low oil temps camp, and I seem to have a very effective oil cooler, as even after longer trips with highway usage, my oil seems to be around 155F. I don't have an oil thermometer, but I bought a laser thermometer and crawl under the truck after I park and check the oil pan temp. (So that temp obviously isn't on the highway, but after exiting and driving through neighborhoods.)
 
Alright then, you seem to have been looking for a convention like "dynamic" viscosity (in contrast to "kinematic viscosity") for maybe between 100 and 120C or so. Got it, many thanks.
 
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