How Well Do Knipex Cobra Pliers Work As Pipe Wrenches?

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Pipe wrenches have a self clinching action that really bites into the pipe when torque is applied. Channellocks sure don't and cannot be used to apply a lot of torque to pipe.
Do the Cobras bite into the pipe as well as pipe wrenches?
 
I just finished an iron pipe well hookup. I used the "Jaws of Death" (the huge Channellock) pliers and the Knipex one that is large enough to do motorcycle oil filters. The Kinpex are far better, as they have teeth that bite.

However, in the end, I had to unpack a number of crates to get out my 2 and 1/2 foot long USA made pipe wrenches. When you have really tough things to torque, nothing else will do. It is not just a matter of bite, it is a matter of tool rigidity. And the ability to put an extension on it.
 
what are you looking to achieve? pump pliers and pipe wrenches are two different things. i personally like the Douglas or Wal-Rich pump pliers they have a clamping force when you're applying pressure to the handles. there's a company Wilde which makes a pair similar to these.

this guy doesn't get the concept on how the jaws have a clamping type force maybe in better terms like a pipe wrench type mechanism." the more pressure applied the tighter the bite" i find channellocks to have sloppy jaws.
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They will bite, but will the handles be long enough to give you the torque you need. Pipe wrenches are not that expensive. I'd get one thats at least 18 inches, depending on the space to you need to work.
 
Cobras are only marginally better than channel locks. I have and use both and don't find either better than the other unless it has flats on it. Then the cobras are better. Soft pipe like conduit I like channel locks better on installation. Have the biggest cobras they make and still end up using my pipe wrenches from time to time.
 
Knipex pliers work great like the alligator or cobra pliers 10 &12 inch with the V-jaw shape, at work I used them many times on most anything including plumbing, the straight jaws on other pliers don't work well.
 
They will bite, but will the handles be long enough to give you the torque you need. Pipe wrenches are not that expensive. I'd get one thats at least 18 inches, depending on the space to you need to work.
When I worked maintenance we would get some pretty serious unions and valves broke loose with a 14 and 18” aluminum pipe wrench and forget it a 24 or larger would really break stuff loose.
 
They will bite, but will the handles be long enough to give you the torque you need. Pipe wrenches are not that expensive. I'd get one thats at least 18 inches, depending on the space to you need to work.
I have many pipe wrenches, including a 18in straight, 18 in angled, 2 ft and 3 ft, all Ridgids. The Knipex will be used for bell trims on faucets like the one below. When they are stuck on from corrosion, the trim has to grabbed from the bottom and turned. Channellocks will some times slip and mess up the finish on the trim. I have been using a 10 in pipe wrench to grab the trim and it always gets it off but leaves four deep teeth marks. The Knipex seems to have finer teeth and will hopefully leave smaller marks. Also lighter and easier to carry to job sites than a pipe wrench
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These trims are corroded way beyond strap wrenches or rubber belting.
The conical shape is what makes it difficult. Strap wrenches work well on cylindrical objects, not so well on cones.
If I push down hard on the pipe wrench, it bites on the cone and spins it off.
 
yea breaking unions loose or working on steam lines, you need a couple of pipe wrenchs,and stuck unions do the two hammer trick works well.
What is this "two hammer trick" you speak of?
Are you referring to just hammering on one of the pipe wrenches with a hammer to break the union loose?
 
I have many pipe wrenches, including a 18in straight, 18 in angled, 2 ft and 3 ft, all Ridgids. The Knipex will be used for bell trims on faucets like the one below. When they are stuck on from corrosion, the trim has to grabbed from the bottom and turned. Channellocks will some times slip and mess up the finish on the trim. I have been using a 10 in pipe wrench to grab the trim and it always gets it off but leaves four deep teeth marks. The Knipex seems to have finer teeth and will hopefully leave smaller marks. Also lighter and easier to carry to job sites than a pipe wrenchView attachment 281464
Try smooth jaw pliers something like these

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/48-22-6552
 
What is this "two hammer trick" you speak of?
Are you referring to just hammering on one of the pipe wrenches with a hammer to break the union loose?
on a frozen union, take two hammers and tap firmly at the same time on each side of the union coupling all the way a round in order to crack loose the corrosion that can develop on the mating surface and threads, make sure there is no line pressure, sometimes even a penetrating oil can help.
 
Yes the cobras do indeed apply more clamping force just by simply pushing on the back handle once they have a “bite” similar to the way a pipe wrench does.

Yes the teeth are finer on the cobras than a pipe wrench but I find that they are so aggressive they will mar the finish up badly like a pipe wrench, the groves just won’t be as deep.
 
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