How to transition a high mileage car to synthetic?
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I have started several vehicles on synthetic oil with no problems. Matter of fact I have never bought a brand new vehicle and for the past several years I've have used mostly synthetic. My Dodge had just over 100k when I made the switch and I have no idea of the service history on tthe Dodge. Just turned over 140k with no leaks or consumption yet.
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Originally Posted By: Chris B.
Not to hijack this thread but my 1997 GMC Sierra 5.7 Vortec has 83,000 total miles on it and used dino(Castrol GTX 5w30) most of it's life. What Synthetic would be a good choice for it? Thanks
.
Pennzoil Platinum pure plus
Thanks! What weight?
Originally Posted By: Chris B.
Not to hijack this thread but my 1997 GMC Sierra 5.7 Vortec has 83,000 total miles on it and used dino(Castrol GTX 5w30) most of it's life. What Synthetic would be a good choice for it? Thanks
.
Pennzoil Platinum pure plus
Thanks! What weight?
Originally Posted By: Chris B.
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Originally Posted By: Chris B.
Not to hijack this thread but my 1997 GMC Sierra 5.7 Vortec has 83,000 total miles on it and used dino(Castrol GTX 5w30) most of it's life. What Synthetic would be a good choice for it? Thanks
.
Pennzoil Platinum pure plus
Thanks! What weight?
You should use the weight specified for your car.
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Originally Posted By: Chris B.
Not to hijack this thread but my 1997 GMC Sierra 5.7 Vortec has 83,000 total miles on it and used dino(Castrol GTX 5w30) most of it's life. What Synthetic would be a good choice for it? Thanks
.
Pennzoil Platinum pure plus
Thanks! What weight?
You should use the weight specified for your car.
Transition is to get ready to replace engine seals as weeps begin to appear.
For a vehicles 16 years of age and with 148000 miles the seals will most likely be brittle and changing to a SYN now is likely to expose false seals.
If its been on DINO keep it on DINO.
Rule for thumb for seals from an old oil supplier was less that 8 years old or less than 80000 miles are less likely to weep or leak.
For a vehicles 16 years of age and with 148000 miles the seals will most likely be brittle and changing to a SYN now is likely to expose false seals.
If its been on DINO keep it on DINO.
Rule for thumb for seals from an old oil supplier was less that 8 years old or less than 80000 miles are less likely to weep or leak.
Originally Posted By: virginoil
Transition is to get ready to replace engine seals as weeps begin to appear.
For a vehicles 16 years of age and with 148000 miles the seals will most likely be brittle and changing to a SYN now is likely to expose false seals.
If its been on DINO keep it on DINO.
Rule for thumb for seals from an old oil supplier was less that 8 years old or less than 80000 miles are less likely to weep or leak.
If it doesn't leak now its not going to. A tight engine is tight not just tight on this or that oil.
The newer dino oils have good cleaning abilities also not just synthetics. If there is a "false seal" caused by deposits newer dino will also clean it away.
Most synthetics today are Gp III or Gp III+, the oils cleaning abilities are in the add pack not the just base stock.
Transition is to get ready to replace engine seals as weeps begin to appear.
For a vehicles 16 years of age and with 148000 miles the seals will most likely be brittle and changing to a SYN now is likely to expose false seals.
If its been on DINO keep it on DINO.
Rule for thumb for seals from an old oil supplier was less that 8 years old or less than 80000 miles are less likely to weep or leak.
If it doesn't leak now its not going to. A tight engine is tight not just tight on this or that oil.
The newer dino oils have good cleaning abilities also not just synthetics. If there is a "false seal" caused by deposits newer dino will also clean it away.
Most synthetics today are Gp III or Gp III+, the oils cleaning abilities are in the add pack not the just base stock.
What is this "transition" you speak of? Are you talking about when you drain the old and put in the new. Takes about 15 minutes. That's it.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: virginoil
Transition is to get ready to replace engine seals as weeps begin to appear.
For a vehicles 16 years of age and with 148000 miles the seals will most likely be brittle and changing to a SYN now is likely to expose false seals.
If its been on DINO keep it on DINO.
Rule for thumb for seals from an old oil supplier was less that 8 years old or less than 80000 miles are less likely to weep or leak.
If it doesn't leak now its not going to. A tight engine is tight not just tight on this or that oil.
The newer dino oils have good cleaning abilities also not just synthetics. If there is a "false seal" caused by deposits newer dino will also clean it away.
Most synthetics today are Gp III or Gp III+, the oils cleaning abilities are in the add pack not the just base stock.
Synthetic oils tend to have better cleaning properties that the DINO otherwise these would be the same price(and not just priced on base oil quality).
In any event I am old school on this matter, if DINO why has worked 16 years why change ?
Because some dudes on BITOG promote change to SYN regardless of the vehicle age, condition, service history and proven maintenance regime ?
If the engine was overhauled with new seals, gaskets etc. I would agree use synthetic oil.
Otherwise keep doing what you been doing is the best wisdom in this instance.
Originally Posted By: virginoil
Transition is to get ready to replace engine seals as weeps begin to appear.
For a vehicles 16 years of age and with 148000 miles the seals will most likely be brittle and changing to a SYN now is likely to expose false seals.
If its been on DINO keep it on DINO.
Rule for thumb for seals from an old oil supplier was less that 8 years old or less than 80000 miles are less likely to weep or leak.
If it doesn't leak now its not going to. A tight engine is tight not just tight on this or that oil.
The newer dino oils have good cleaning abilities also not just synthetics. If there is a "false seal" caused by deposits newer dino will also clean it away.
Most synthetics today are Gp III or Gp III+, the oils cleaning abilities are in the add pack not the just base stock.
Synthetic oils tend to have better cleaning properties that the DINO otherwise these would be the same price(and not just priced on base oil quality).
In any event I am old school on this matter, if DINO why has worked 16 years why change ?
Because some dudes on BITOG promote change to SYN regardless of the vehicle age, condition, service history and proven maintenance regime ?
If the engine was overhauled with new seals, gaskets etc. I would agree use synthetic oil.
Otherwise keep doing what you been doing is the best wisdom in this instance.
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When changing any car with any milage from conventional to synthetic it is very important to stand on one foot when pouring the new oil in. I heard it on the interwebs...
Just kidding. Change it over and watch the oil level just in case.
Just kidding. Change it over and watch the oil level just in case.
Originally Posted By: Trav
http://www.pennzoil.com/motor-oil/pennzoil-conventional/
Nuff said.
Re-read the link.
http://www.pennzoil.com/motor-oil/
Percentage of cleanliness moves up the scale according to the quality of the SYN.
The link you provided adds no new information.
http://www.pennzoil.com/motor-oil/pennzoil-conventional/
Nuff said.
Re-read the link.
http://www.pennzoil.com/motor-oil/
Percentage of cleanliness moves up the scale according to the quality of the SYN.
The link you provided adds no new information.
Fact is it does clean and synthetics also have seal conditioners.
The concerns you have were perhaps relevant in the late 70's but have long since been addressed.
If what you say was true half the cars i work on would be peeing oil and they are not.
The exact same thing was said of multi grade oils in the 50's, they would cause leaks.
Some of the very early ones did at least in Europe but it was quickly corrected.
Your arguing a better quality dino causes leaks more than a slightly lesser dino.
The concerns you have were perhaps relevant in the late 70's but have long since been addressed.
If what you say was true half the cars i work on would be peeing oil and they are not.
The exact same thing was said of multi grade oils in the 50's, they would cause leaks.
Some of the very early ones did at least in Europe but it was quickly corrected.
Your arguing a better quality dino causes leaks more than a slightly lesser dino.
Just do it is all I know. Mobil 1 does state on their High Mileage oil labels to not go over 3-5K miles on OCI for the first couple oil changes when coming over to HM from long term use of dino oil.
I read synthetic oil did indeed shrink oil seals and that is why synthetic now contains seal conditioners from the motor oil bottlers.
We have taken 1976 diesel tractor to as late as 2003 gas engines (our newest vehicle) life long Dino using engines without event EXCEPT the oil gets black fast. Usually after three filter only changes it will clear back up.
I read synthetic oil did indeed shrink oil seals and that is why synthetic now contains seal conditioners from the motor oil bottlers.
We have taken 1976 diesel tractor to as late as 2003 gas engines (our newest vehicle) life long Dino using engines without event EXCEPT the oil gets black fast. Usually after three filter only changes it will clear back up.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Fact is it does clean and synthetics also have seal conditioners.
The concerns you have were perhaps relevant in the late 70's but have long since been addressed.
If what you say was true half the cars i work on would be peeing oil and they are not.
The exact same thing was said of multi grade oils in the 50's, they would cause leaks.
Some of the very early ones did at least in Europe but it was quickly corrected.
Your arguing a better quality dino causes leaks more than a slightly lesser dino.
No just saying high quality DINO group 3's have better cleaning packs that than the conventional and more likely to expose false seals than the cleaning packs in conventional DINO oils. Sad it has taken this number of posts to spell that out.
In respect to peeing oil, weeping more likely. Even though the SYN oils have seal conditioners in it, if the seal is old and brittle, the seal conditions in the SYN oil will do little for the seal to swell and self heal itself properly, Hence a leak.
In any case your argument for using SYN negates itself, if what you imply means conventional DINO oils have the same cleaning packs and ability as the SYN oils why change to SYN oil ?
The concerns form 1970's in switching are still here today, perhaps with a lower risk of weeping or occurring. Non the less there is still a risk. Why are seal conditioners required if there is NO risk of weep or leak ?
The vehicle is 16 years old or this makes no difference either ?
If you are so sure of your information perhaps you will provide a warranty with your advice to the OP, if the engine develops a weep or leak then are you willing to contribute to say 20% of the repair costs ?
Fact is it does clean and synthetics also have seal conditioners.
The concerns you have were perhaps relevant in the late 70's but have long since been addressed.
If what you say was true half the cars i work on would be peeing oil and they are not.
The exact same thing was said of multi grade oils in the 50's, they would cause leaks.
Some of the very early ones did at least in Europe but it was quickly corrected.
Your arguing a better quality dino causes leaks more than a slightly lesser dino.
No just saying high quality DINO group 3's have better cleaning packs that than the conventional and more likely to expose false seals than the cleaning packs in conventional DINO oils. Sad it has taken this number of posts to spell that out.
In respect to peeing oil, weeping more likely. Even though the SYN oils have seal conditioners in it, if the seal is old and brittle, the seal conditions in the SYN oil will do little for the seal to swell and self heal itself properly, Hence a leak.
In any case your argument for using SYN negates itself, if what you imply means conventional DINO oils have the same cleaning packs and ability as the SYN oils why change to SYN oil ?
The concerns form 1970's in switching are still here today, perhaps with a lower risk of weeping or occurring. Non the less there is still a risk. Why are seal conditioners required if there is NO risk of weep or leak ?
The vehicle is 16 years old or this makes no difference either ?
If you are so sure of your information perhaps you will provide a warranty with your advice to the OP, if the engine develops a weep or leak then are you willing to contribute to say 20% of the repair costs ?
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Originally Posted By: virginoil
Why are seal conditioners required if there is NO risk of weep or leak ?
That's the case in just about every oil. Note that various oil specifications require compatibility with seal materials, and I would assume that certain base stocks alone wouldn't guarantee optimal compatibility with seals. Trav's point is we don't see a lot of primarily PAO or primarily ester type oils these days, particularly in SN/GF-5 or A5/B5 type oils.
Why are seal conditioners required if there is NO risk of weep or leak ?
That's the case in just about every oil. Note that various oil specifications require compatibility with seal materials, and I would assume that certain base stocks alone wouldn't guarantee optimal compatibility with seals. Trav's point is we don't see a lot of primarily PAO or primarily ester type oils these days, particularly in SN/GF-5 or A5/B5 type oils.
Switched from dino to synthetic at 89,000 miles and never looked back. Just poured it in during the oil change. The oil consumption actually decreased a bit from 1qt/1k miles to half a quart. I'm using a VW 502 cert synthetic oil by the way.
Even dino meets ILSAC GF-5 spec. All modern engine oils clean better than their predecessors be it dino or synthetic.
All are formulated for seal compatibility, modern engines (the last 30+ years) don't use graphite impregnated rope seals anymore not that seal conditioners would help them anyway.
If you have an old worn old seal any new oil dino or synthetic could cause it to leak, modern seal materials are much different to those of years ago.
In those cases a classic oil with little additives is advisable. Porsche published this for its older engine.
Even the classic for the early engines is..
Originally Posted By: Porsche
is a mineral oil known as a hydrocracked base oil
Keep in mind this is for engines built 40+ years ago not 20.
http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesan...eweditions/oil/
You seem convinced no matter what and thats you business but posting 8 year 80K as the limit for changing is just plain wrong.
Quote:
Rule for thumb for seals from an old oil supplier was less that 8 years old or less than 80000 miles are less likely to weep or leak.
All are formulated for seal compatibility, modern engines (the last 30+ years) don't use graphite impregnated rope seals anymore not that seal conditioners would help them anyway.
If you have an old worn old seal any new oil dino or synthetic could cause it to leak, modern seal materials are much different to those of years ago.
In those cases a classic oil with little additives is advisable. Porsche published this for its older engine.
Even the classic for the early engines is..
Originally Posted By: Porsche
is a mineral oil known as a hydrocracked base oil
Keep in mind this is for engines built 40+ years ago not 20.
http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesan...eweditions/oil/
You seem convinced no matter what and thats you business but posting 8 year 80K as the limit for changing is just plain wrong.
Quote:
Rule for thumb for seals from an old oil supplier was less that 8 years old or less than 80000 miles are less likely to weep or leak.
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
You could always go with a gentle synthetic like Mag1/SuperTech.
A gentle synthetic? What exactly does that mean?
A full synthetic oil that doesn't blow your seals out.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
You could always go with a gentle synthetic like Mag1/SuperTech.
A gentle synthetic? What exactly does that mean?
A full synthetic oil that doesn't blow your seals out.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
A full synthetic oil that doesn't blow your seals out.
Conversely, can you name me a non-gentle synthetic?
A full synthetic oil that doesn't blow your seals out.
Conversely, can you name me a non-gentle synthetic?
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