So assume the person operating a piece of 2 stroke equiment is not mechanically inclined. They became frustrated with the equipment as they can start it cold but never warm. I guess this is a legit issue. I know based on my years of experience that I just know when it needs choke and when not but how would a non engine person know when to use the cold start process?
How to start hot 2 stokes for people not mechanically minded.
- Thread starter Fordiesel69
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Yes, that person that struggles with it warm will likely struggle with it cold.
choke off no prime. Just pull the cord.
Not mechanically inclined? I ask to see their equipment for a second and start it for them.
Most of my saws are adjusted pretty p!ssah for most weather, but once in a while I need to adjust my kit 660 (92cc), even then it doesn't take long.
I haven't touched one of Stihl or Husky saws in a while.
In their case, it may be a quick adjustment (the L screw) or possibly a mechanical issue if it's an older piece of equipment.
Most of my saws are adjusted pretty p!ssah for most weather, but once in a while I need to adjust my kit 660 (92cc), even then it doesn't take long.
I haven't touched one of Stihl or Husky saws in a while.
In their case, it may be a quick adjustment (the L screw) or possibly a mechanical issue if it's an older piece of equipment.
A few had automatic chokes believe it or not. The injected boat 2 strokes may even have had pollution controls.
My old 2 cycles would start cold or hot choke or not, an improper selection would net you a hard start. I had one 2 cycle that wouldn’t start unless you used the choke even when warmed up but you could click off the choke after the first chug and fire .
My old 2 cycles would start cold or hot choke or not, an improper selection would net you a hard start. I had one 2 cycle that wouldn’t start unless you used the choke even when warmed up but you could click off the choke after the first chug and fire .
All my lawn equipment is 2 stroke.
Generally a single pull, no choke hot is all it needs.
What can get tricky on the lawnmower is warm start, say if I’ve taken a 15 minute break. If it doesn’t start on one pull, usually a single press of the primer will do it. At one point the mower I was using this past year got really touchy on warm restarts and it was suggested to me that it could be an ignition coil issue. Sure enough, the old nasty parts box one I tried cleared it up. I ordered another but it’s still hanging on a peg in the garage…
Generally a single pull, no choke hot is all it needs.
What can get tricky on the lawnmower is warm start, say if I’ve taken a 15 minute break. If it doesn’t start on one pull, usually a single press of the primer will do it. At one point the mower I was using this past year got really touchy on warm restarts and it was suggested to me that it could be an ignition coil issue. Sure enough, the old nasty parts box one I tried cleared it up. I ordered another but it’s still hanging on a peg in the garage…
On my chainsaws cold, full choke, first sputter, 1/2 choke and it starts immediately. Warm, they usually start without choke, or i'll use 1/2 choke.
Leaf blower , full choke to start, when its warm but its been more than say 10 minutes, squeeze primer bulb and 1/2 choke , starts right up.
Leaf blower , full choke to start, when its warm but its been more than say 10 minutes, squeeze primer bulb and 1/2 choke , starts right up.
IME, they can vary some. My Stihl fs56 whacker has its own regimen when cold but readily fires first pull hot, unless it's sat for a few extra minutes, then sometimes I need to crack the throttle some. Same with my lightly tuned 026 saw.
When I was snowmobiling, my sled was the same way - unless it was an immediate refire, I often had to crack the throttle just a hair.
I suppose it depends on fuel, tuning, port design and pipe design. An interesting side note on my sled - a Polaris Pro-X 440 fan... It was very, very temperamental on main jetting and needle setting for the temperature. And even when jetted for temps, it wouldn't run for squat until that pipe got good and hot... Then she was a ripper.
When I was snowmobiling, my sled was the same way - unless it was an immediate refire, I often had to crack the throttle just a hair.
I suppose it depends on fuel, tuning, port design and pipe design. An interesting side note on my sled - a Polaris Pro-X 440 fan... It was very, very temperamental on main jetting and needle setting for the temperature. And even when jetted for temps, it wouldn't run for squat until that pipe got good and hot... Then she was a ripper.
None of my 2 stroke stuff is difficult to start. Seems odd that people struggle with them.
Most people don't know how or when to use a choke.
Had an 85' Honda cr500 that was a real pain in a$$ to start...would bruise ones foot real bad if it kicked back. Lost a heel off a boot once.
Cold start..choke...hot start no choke some throttle. Problem is in between. Outboards are like that also. 5 minutes they will start no choke. 6 minutes no choke wont start. Use choke and now its flooded.
Cold start..choke...hot start no choke some throttle. Problem is in between. Outboards are like that also. 5 minutes they will start no choke. 6 minutes no choke wont start. Use choke and now its flooded.
Being a motorhead or not, that is the question.
We old geezers born on choke usage and application of said device still have a spot on top of the mountain.
We old geezers born on choke usage and application of said device still have a spot on top of the mountain.
I have a Stihl weed whacker that is getting difficult to start. The exhaust screen is clean and the fuel [89 octane E0 + Husqvarana JASO FD oil] is running well in two other Stilh machines. I ran two tanks of that fuel through the chainsaw on Saturday without issues. I also ran the leaf blower.
The plug looked wet on the weed whacker so I pulled it out and cleaned it. That got it to start, but it doesn't want to idle. Any thoughts on what to do next?
Carb adjustments, and hope there is not a crank seal leak.
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