How to remove the ATF from my '04 Canyon's 4L60E

[dishdude]

I purchased this 2004 GMC Canyon that has around 28k on it. I want to change out the ATF and really am not looking forward to just cracking the pan open and wearing all of the fluid since it doesn't have a drain plug!

I was thinking of trying a fluid sucker but a couple of the posts I have read say that the dipstick tube is too narrow at the bottom to accept the tube.

Any suggestions? Or should I just get a huge oil absorbing mat and plan on getting covered?

Also, any suggestions on cleaning the pan and gasket surfaces?

 

[demarpaint]

Try a hand held pump with a thinner tube. You can also reduce the size of the tube by fitting one tube inside the other. Something the size of a fish tank filter hose should fit. I've done it.

Once the pan is down wipe it out, and you can spray brake clean inside the pan. Just make sure you get all of it out, don't spray anything inside the transmission.

 

[moklock]

I have lowered the pan on a couple Astros and my Camaro with the 4L60E and have found it not too messy if you drain it slowly.

Unbolt it so as to the rear edge down to drain first, then hold it back up, take the couple of front bolts left in out, and slowly dump the rest into your drain pan by tipping the rear down first again.

An aftermarket pan with a drain plug would be a good investment if you plan to change the fluid frequently. I think my Camaro is going get one next time its due.

As far as gasket surfaces go, i just carefully use a gasket scraper with a new single edge razor blade each time.

 

[JohnBrowning]

You are making this harder then it need to be. Buy a kiddy pool the little hard plastic ones. Put it under the pan. Losen all of them then focus on on corner. It helps to jack up the front end the higher you get it the more fluid that will come out of the TC! Wear nitril gloves and you should not get any on you. I have done this for about 6 years on a Dakota and a Buick. It takes some patients and some hand eye cordination and that is it. Then you drop the pan put a new filter in place, reuse the gasket if it has a high quality rubber one with steel inserts,put RTV on all the bolts and retorq. No refill from the top and you are done. I once did this three times in abut an hour to get all the fluid out after doing an Auto-RX treatment.

Someone will suggest a cooler line flush but it depends on what type of lines you have on the cooler and if you want to mess with them. IT also is not a smart move if you have to do it all your self as it is hard to watch the fluid come out into a nice tidy container, put fresh fluid in and be able to turn the engine off quickly should you goof up so you do not run the trans dry!

The oil suction devices that are sold to suck oil out of boats and such will get most of it. Well enough that you should not get drenched by ATF. You still need something to catch what ever it miss's though.

B&M used to sell a self installed drain plug that only required you to remove the pan one time and drill one hole. It is not as good as the type of drain plug that Toyota has always installed on their vechiles since forever but it beats having to drop the pan in the normal manner. It will allow you drain all but about an inch of fluid when ever you pull the plug. It is a really good and durable design so as long as you can handle a drill and follow directions it will make all future oil drains on the ATF easy as a Toyota!

 

[JTK]

For a 2004 w/ only 28K, I'd just pull a cooler line on that 4L60E. It will probably be hard plumbed w/ tubing and the lines are fastened to the radiator cooler w/ push-lock fittings. Feel for the hotter line, that's the one you want to remove from the radiator, shove a pc of vinyl/rubber tubing over the end to route it into a gallon jug. Have a helper start/stop the engine when the jug fills (in a matter of seconds). Refill, repeat 2 more times, done!

Joel

 

[bmwtechguy]

I agree with Joel above...take the cooler line loose and pump the fluid out of the pan, then use that line to continue your system flush. I cannot see where there would be much in the pan to clean out at that mileage and would wait to drop the pan and do all that when you hit 60k or 100k miles.

 

[vxcalais]

Couple of my manuals state the line flush method. I did it about a week ago. Get an empty milk or coke plastic bottle. Pour a litre of water into it and mark it on the outside. emtpy it and run a hose from the line, i disconnected the line after the trans cooler so i got all old fluid out from there. Add 1 litre before you start. THis way you never run under. Start the ignition, run for approx 15 seconds. That is how long i needed to make a litre. Empty it out into waste container, put it back with the hose in it then add another litre through the filler tube. Keep going until you have used all your new fluid but keep some for top ups. This way you never run under. Some have said to put it into neutral, that way no clutches are engaged, but i left it in park. Do this after a filter change or if its new, leave it. I also added a magnefine after the trans cooler, just before it enters the trans. That was because it was a better line and location for the filter to be in, but magnefine do recommend filter before cooler for some reason.

 

[PT1]

You want to drop the pan and change the filter on that trans at least once because it will be loaded with break-in debris. Then do a cooler line flush. My experience with GM transmissions is that the initial filter needs to be changed then only about every 60-70k after that. You can disconect the cooler line and use it to empty the trans so you don't get an ATF bath. Then drop the pan R&R the fliter and once the pan is re-installed continue with your cooler line flush. I would run 12-14 quarts through that trans.