How often do you replace your anode rod?

[BHopkins]

I have a 40 gal. Lochinvar that I installed almost 12 years ago. I replaced the anode rod 2 years ago this month. The old anode rod was pretty corroded, but there was a lot of material left also. However, most of the anode rod was covered with mineral (calcium?) deposits, so I was unsure how effective the anode rod could be any longer. So I'm glad I replaced it.

This is the first time I've ever replaced an anode rod. But really, I've been pretty fortunate. In my 45 years of home ownership, I've only had to replace water heaters twice. So I've done ok without replacing anode rods.

I have a 50 gallon Lochinvar water heater. When I bought the home in 2020, one of the first things I wanted to tackle was the anode rod, since the water heater is original to the home (2008). That's when I discovered through a parts diagram that the anode rod is stupidly built into either the water inlet or outlet (forget which one). Checking it / replacing it would entail a whole bunch of work and desoldering copper pipe. I'm just going to let it ride.

There's a tax credit that will essentially pay for an upgrade to a hybrid heat pump / conventional electric water heater that'll soon be available if it's not already. If it goes, I'll just replace it with one of those.

You don't have flex lines coming into your water heater? It is highly recommended. Perhaps replacing the anode rod would be a good opportunity to install flex lines. Not only do flex lines make future water heater replacements much simpler, but they also reduce risk of water leaks/flooding, in the case of an earthquake or such.

 

[KrisZ]

Yup it’s an easy maintenance item that will greatly extend the life of a heater. Most heaters with long warranties or heavy duty models only differ in the anode department. They often have two of them, or a beefier single one. That would not be the case if the anodes didn’t work.

 

[SR20DE]

I had a contractor friend that said never touch it. Most damage happens when trying to do "maintenance". I'm sure water source/quality has a lot to do with it. Is hard or soft water better?

I have a Bradford White gas water heater that's about to be 11 years old. Never flushed or changed the anode rod. It's been making noise like tumbling rocks during high usage for a couple years. Need to research for a replacement soon but it's done remarkably well for having no maintenance done on it.

 

[Pablo]

 

[Pablo]

I have a Bradford White gas water heater that's about to be 11 years old. Never flushed or changed the anode rod. It's been making noise like tumbling rocks during high usage for a couple years. Need to research for a replacement soon but it's done remarkably well for having no maintenance done on it.

Same same. I suspect chunks of the old rod and the way B-W HyrdoJet fills the tank make this noise. I drained and flushed ours, changed anode. The noise NEARLY is gone. I think some of the chunks were too large to flush. That said, it seems like the noise is way way less. And I bet those chunks are getting dissolved a bit. I will flush again this summer if noise is not completely gone.

Change your anode rod for sure

 

[repairman54]

Gas heater the sediment in the bottom inhibits heat transfer. Yearly draining should be done from the initial installation. Most gas heaters start leaking from the bottom due to the sediment buildup burn out.
Waiting a few years before draining usually results in drain valves not sealing afterwards. Keep a garden hose size cap handy.
Wrenching out those anodes cracks the glass lining around the anode fitting. Same with changing elements in electric heaters.
Thermostat failures are the most common issue in electric ones.
Sediment filter and soft water make heaters last longer.
Just my experiences from being a on site tech for the now defunct big S in my previous life.

 

[Lubener]

I replaced ours just the other day. First time ever at any house and I was amazed how easy it was, and this unit had it built into the exit port. I expected the nipple to be gorilla beyond tight. It was just perfect tight.

The old rod had life, but looked ugly - so maybe a couple years left. I also had to use a sectioned rod, and recipro saw the old one with vise grips on the lower part so it wouldn't fall in, but the whole process was butt easy.

You are lucky. I have no room above my tank to install a new anode rod.

 

[Pablo]

You are lucky. I have no room above my tank to install a new anode rod.

Lucky? Not at all. How little space do you have?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LTAUC3O?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

[hrv]

You are lucky. I have no room above my tank to install a new anode rod.

You can purchase flexible type they are in sections on a wire that you just drop in...

 

[Donald]

If you are really energetic after checking the rod in water heater tank, check the bag next to buried & owned propane tank. As important if not more so.

 

[Pablo]

If you are really energetic after checking the rod in water heater tank, check the bag next to buried & owned propane tank. As important if not more so.

??

What bag?

 

[Donald]

??

What bag?

When they bury a propane they toss in a small bag of anodes next to the tank with a wire attaching to the tank. Over time hopefully corrosion eats up the anodes rather than your underground tank.

You can buy the attachment to a DVM to pleasure the voltage around the tank. Most people have the propane company do the voltage check and replace the bag if needed.

 

[Pablo]

When they bury a propane they toss in a small bag of anodes next to the tank with a wire attaching to the tank. Over time hopefully corrosion eats up the anodes rather than your underground tank.

You can buy the attachment to a DVM to pleasure the voltage around the tank. Most people have the propane company do the voltage check and replace the bag if needed.

OK buried tanks only, right? Mine is above ground.

 

[Donald]

OK buried tanks only, right? Mine is above ground.

Yes. Buried and owned. If rented the propane company can do it when the choose.

But if you rent your tank you are typically getting screwed with higher cost per gallon of propane and possibly a rental fee. Renter beware.

 

[Lubener]

I have a Bradford White gas water heater that's about to be 11 years old. Never flushed or changed the anode rod. It's been making noise like tumbling rocks during high usage for a couple years. Need to research for a replacement soon but it's done remarkably well for having no maintenance done on it.

You have sediment. Drain it. Its not the anode rod causing that noise.

 

[Pablo]

You have sediment. Drain it. It’s not the anode rod causing that noise.

Mostly true but the hunk’s making the noise will not simply drain out.

 

[oilcandave]

The anode rod is sacrificial, its life is determined by water hardness. Without it, the tank corrodes. The anode rod doesn't fill in cracks or seams. I also disagree, the hotter you set the thermostat doesn't prolong the life of the tank. It is quite the opposite. More heating cycles needed to maintain the higher temperatures along with additional expanding and contracting of the tank will shorten its life.

The tanks are glass lined to extend their lifespan from corrosion, not to prolong the life of a twenty dollar anode rod.

To minimize stray currents and additional corrosion, I have installed a heavy copper jumper wire between the tank's water inlet pipe and its outlet pipe using clamps.

To say lime build up, collecting on the tank's bottom has little effect on the heating ability of a natural gas water heater is all bunk.

I don't know where you are getting your information from, most of it is incorrect. I hope you are not a plumber.

Waterheater manufacture 2 day course, 40 years ago...right after getting my 4 year in mechanical 3.5gpa. Family business since 1948.

Cornell did study back in 1955 and confirms the 2 day course.

Without the glass the anode would not last long. My explanation was over simplified..

The crown sheet is a small portion of the total heat exchanger. It is the tube in the waterheater that is the main exchanger. The lime falls off this tube to the bottom edge since the bottom is concave. Its not like heating a pot of water in the stove.

As the water temp is increased the O2 is reduced. Ever seen an anode on a hot water heating system? No because most of the O2 has been driven off. When there is a leak and fresh water is added consistently that drives up the O2. Got a couple of customers who still have their 1960 heater when ya ran them at 160F...before the lawyers got involved.

I have replaced couple hundred heaters in 40 years and haven't seen any softner help a heater last longer. I have installed softners for many and it has not helped heater life...and they have complained to me about it.

Over the life of the heater those older thermostats tend to get out of calibration lowering the temp with respect to the setting. They use an expansion rod to turn them on and off. The rod wears and shortens lowering the temp with respect to set point. That comes across as a lowering of efficiency when its thermostat calibration. Sometimes the lime will build up to and around the thermostst also causing wide differentials.

 

[SHOZ]

I take them out and just plug the opening. Makes my hot water smell like sulfur. Typically get 25 years out of a water heater.