How many of you re-use your filters atleast once?

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Originally Posted By: sl1driver
Originally Posted By: gregk24
I do like the fact that there would be one less dry start if you didnt change the oil filter.

You can avoid dry starts after an oil change by adding oil to your filter before installing. The filter in my Equinox installs vertically so I can completely fill it. The filter in my Saturn is horizontal so I add enough oil to wet the media but I don't completely fill it to avoid oil running every where when I turn it sideways to install it.


Yes!

I don't have a Saturn but I used to have a Taurus. For that car in every brand filter, and every other car and brand can-type oil filter I've used, I've found that (after a few minutes) the first oil fill gets 100% absorbed. The second fill gets ~40-60% absorbed, allowing tilty installations with no drip problem. For Horizontal installations I just put a little bit in the second fill, maybe 10-20%, again no drip problem.

Long ago I used to pull the coil wire and crank until the oil light went out, but have found pre-filling to work better, and besides, coil wires are pretty scarce nowadays.

Maybe it amounts to nothing measurable, but it makes me feel better to see the oil light go off instantly on startup.
 
Originally Posted By: Umibozu
I've been extending the FCI to 20k miles with four 5k mile OCI. I leave the filter on every time.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...037#Post3092037


BOF is going to have an epileptic seizure!
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Interesting thread. Personally, I change the filter with every oil change. I do try and use a filter and oil from the same tier.

It only takes $8 and 3 minutes to change. Besides, most of the time a filter comes with my oil change special.
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Are the parts really "dry"? I doubt it.

Nope,not even close to being "dry".

I've assembled motors and part of the process involves spraying some motor oil on the cylinder walls before installing the piston - connecting rod assembly. Those cylinders will have oil on the cylinders for a very long time.I've had to wait for other engine parts to arrive/ordered before being able to do final assembly and the cylinders were still slick with oil,so please people,dont worry about the insides of a motor being totally "dry" during an oil change.
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I am surprised that in 106 post nobody mentioned about the oil additives.

When a filter is reused, the overbased sulfonates in the new oil will be used up neutralizing and dissolving the contaminates caught in the old filter. The new oil will have a decreased TBN and a faster increasing TAN which leads to a shortened service life - compared to the same oil with a new filter.

Essentially you are using expensive motor oil to clean an inexpensive filter.
 
Originally Posted By: Gabe
I am surprised that in 106 post nobody mentioned about the oil additives.

When a filter is reused, the overbased sulfonates in the new oil will be used up neutralizing and dissolving the contaminates caught in the old filter. The new oil will have a decreased TBN and a faster increasing TAN which leads to a shortened service life - compared to the same oil with a new filter.

Essentially you are using expensive motor oil to clean an inexpensive filter.


That and the fact that a filter in some instances can hold 5-10% or more of the sump capacity. That dirty oil mixes into the fresh clean oil, unless you drain it from the filter. A lot of people don't drain the filter because they fear a leak. I'd rather not have that dirty oil in the filter mixing with the fresh oil. As it is I can't get all the oil out of an engine, leaving the filter leaves even more dirty oil behind.
 
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