How many of you are following the OLM from GM ?

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Gmorg,

Where are you located? I am a Sevier Co. native (an endangered species) which is about as "Smokey Mountains" as one can get. We don't have any clay to speak of and dusty gravel roads vanished about 20 years ago due to mass tourisim and the "invasion" of new residents from other states.
 
How about just monitoring your oil to see how dirty it gets and if it gets that burned up smell just change it?
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quote:

I can think of three possibilities:

1: Your model doesn't have one.
2: The readout is somehow damaged.
3: Are you the guy that still turns the key on and floors the gas pedal 3 times? Or do you let your kid do that? If so, THAT'S how you reset the OLM. [/QB]

1. It's a 2001 Buick Regal LS, and it does have an OLM according to everyone on www.regalgs.org, the owner's manual, the factory service manual, and the dummy light on the dash.

2. The light comes on for a second or two with all of the others when I start the car. No problem there.

3. The only time my pedal hits the floor is once a week or so on an open road after the car is fully warmed up. I am the ONLY one to drive this car, I'm not married and have no kids.
 
milwaukee,

I'm a native of Hamblen county (Morristown), just northeast of you. However, I am now in southwest Virginia, almost West Virginia.

By the way, all of that "red" or "orange" looking soil that you see in east Tennessee is clay. And, if you drive to surrounding counties that are not a part of the Dolly Parton finace system, (Cocke, Hawkins, Grainger, or Green counties) you will still find gravel roads in east Tennessee.
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Thatwouldbegreat
Member
Member # 4144

posted 10 July, 2006 00:03
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I think 3K /3months OCI was brilliant 'one size fits all works with low spec oil solutiion; and probably saved a lot of motors from wear, from oil shearing or breakdow, additive depletion, sludge or dirt or coolant contamination.... or oil filter failure.

There's still a place for it, but a modern engine in good repair with the latest spec oils is probably not the most likely palce I'd use it.

There is no general answer which oil, which viscosity, which interval. But even with severe use,driving hard in all temps and conditions 7K OCI is what's 'normal' for my vehicles using the best synthetics and filters... and I know I could probably run another 505 to 70% beyond that.
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Posts: 577 | From: Vail, Colorado | Registered: May 2004 | IP: Logged |

It would be nice if someone told D.C. thier still recommending 3,000/3Months for severe service. 6 months 5,000 for normal service.
 
quote:

Originally posted by dave1251:
Thatwouldbegreat
Member
Member # 4144

posted 10 July, 2006 00:03
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I think 3K /3months OCI was brilliant 'one size fits all works with low spec oil solutiion; and probably saved a lot of motors from wear, from oil shearing or breakdow, additive depletion, sludge or dirt or coolant contamination.... or oil filter failure.

There's still a place for it, but a modern engine in good repair with the latest spec oils is probably not the most likely palce I'd use it.

There is no general answer which oil, which viscosity, which interval. But even with severe use,driving hard in all temps and conditions 7K OCI is what's 'normal' for my vehicles using the best synthetics and filters... and I know I could probably run another 505 to 70% beyond that.
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Posts: 577 | From: Vail, Colorado | Registered: May 2004 | IP: Logged |

It would be nice if someone told D.C. thier still recommending 3,000/3Months for severe service. 6 months 5,000 for normal service.


I remember what I did in hot weather 98+ degrees I idled in the parking lot for at least 15 minutes with air conditioning on.
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Engine coolant temp varied from 199 to 201. Felt kind of bad about this so at 58% on OLM I just changed the oil and filter.
 
FWIW;
On my 2001 GMC 5.3L 1/2ton 4X4, with UOA's by gradually lengthening out my oil changes, I am now changing my oil when the OLM flashes + another 50% in mileage, yes 1-1/2 times the OLM. The wear metals still come back excellent, the only result that may be abit high is the silicon, but there is no indication of an increase in wear metals due to this.

Using Castrol 0w-30 GC (green)
 
quote:

Originally posted by Baveux:
I do, and my UOA are showing good result. I am using strictly Dino juice .

What about you ??


Used Amsoil and now Mobil 1. Never trust the OLM...
 
quote:

quote:
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I can think of three possibilities:

1: Your model doesn't have one.
2: The readout is somehow damaged.
3: Are you the guy that still turns the key on and floors the gas pedal 3 times? Or do you let your kid do that? If so, THAT'S how you reset the OLM. [/QB]
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1. It's a 2001 Buick Regal LS, and it does have an OLM according to everyone on www.regalgs.org, the owner's manual, the factory service manual, and the dummy light on the dash.

2. The light comes on for a second or two with all of the others when I start the car. No problem there.

3. The only time my pedal hits the floor is once a week or so on an open road after the car is fully warmed up. I am the ONLY one to drive this car, I'm not married and have no kids.
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Posts: 53 | From: QCA, IA | Registered: Oct 2005 | IP: Logged |

When you normally start a car with an OLM, there is no TEST function. The light comes on, and stay on for about 3 seconds. THIS IS THE OLM TELLING YOU TO CHANGE THE OIL!!! All this while you have been seeing the "change oil" message and thought it was a test function!
 
I use(d) it exclusivley on my recent 2005 Silverado and still use it on my 2005 Tahoe. It goes to somewhere between 6-7k OCI's on Castrol GTX 5W-30.

IMO-If anyone here thinks that they're smarter or have more knowledge than the engineers who did the research and development who designed the OLM, they need to go pound sand or post the credentials that would be able to substantiate such a claim.

I now have a 2003 Toyota Tacoma w/ the 2.7L 4 cylinder and will be using a diet of Havoline 5W-30 @ 5k OCI's unless the first UOA tells me otherwise.
 
quote:

Originally posted by GMorg:
milwaukee,

I'm a native of Hamblen county (Morristown), just northeast of you. However, I am now in southwest Virginia, almost West Virginia.

By the way, all of that "red" or "orange" looking soil that you see in east Tennessee is clay. And, if you drive to surrounding counties that are not a part of the Dolly Parton finace system, (Cocke, Hawkins, Grainger, or Green counties) you will still find gravel roads in east Tennessee.
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Thanks for your observations. Accuracy not withstanding.
 
quote:

Originally posted by milwaukee:

quote:

Originally posted by GMorg:
milwaukee,

I'm a native of Hamblen county (Morristown), just northeast of you. However, I am now in southwest Virginia, almost West Virginia.

By the way, all of that "red" or "orange" looking soil that you see in east Tennessee is clay. And, if you drive to surrounding counties that are not a part of the Dolly Parton finace system, (Cocke, Hawkins, Grainger, or Green counties) you will still find gravel roads in east Tennessee.
cheers.gif



offtopic.gif


Thanks for your observations. Accuracy not withstanding.


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quote:

Originally posted by GMorg:
milwaukee,

I'm a native of Hamblen county (Morristown), just northeast of you. However, I am now in southwest Virginia, almost West Virginia.

By the way, all of that "red" or "orange" looking soil that you see in east Tennessee is clay. And, if you drive to surrounding counties that are not a part of the Dolly Parton finace system, (Cocke, Hawkins, Grainger, or Green counties) you will still find gravel roads in east Tennessee.
cheers.gif



offtopic.gif


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quote:

Originally posted by JParrott:
I use(d) it exclusivley on my recent 2005 Silverado and still use it on my 2005 Tahoe. It goes to somewhere between 6-7k OCI's on Castrol GTX 5W-30.

SNIP


First of all, thank you for serving.
Second, I'm SURE you know this, but you should realize that your OLM can't tell the difference between 90c/qt API SA 30WT and $9/qt Redline synthetic. It basically assumes you're using off-brand API SL conventional and makes decisions from there.
 
I have an '05 Malibu Maxx w. 3.5 engine. Generally use Pennzoil dino + a ST filter. I change when the OLM gets below 20%-- probably averages about 7,000 miles depending on the time of the year. GM engines are very easy on oil and (like the description of the OLM says), this is a pretty sophisticated device. I suspected that if I ran it all the way down to zero, that something besides the engine will be the reason I get rid of this car-- only one or two of the thirty cars I've owned have had the engine be the ultimate source of failure and that was generally because of over heating.
 
quote:

Originally posted by csandste:
I have an '05 Malibu Maxx w. 3.5 engine. Generally use Pennzoil dino + a ST filter. I change when the OLM gets below 20%-- probably averages about 7,000 miles depending on the time of the year. GM engines are very easy on oil and (like the description of the OLM says), this is a pretty sophisticated device. I suspected that if I ran it all the way down to zero, that something besides the engine will be the reason I get rid of this car-- only one or two of the thirty cars I've owned have had the engine be the ultimate source of failure and that was generally because of over heating.

This is on a Corvette lots of gadgets, computers, and electronics to go wrong.
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quote:

Originally posted by TomJones76:

quote:

Originally posted by JParrott:
I use(d) it exclusivley on my recent 2005 Silverado and still use it on my 2005 Tahoe. It goes to somewhere between 6-7k OCI's on Castrol GTX 5W-30.

SNIP


First of all, thank you for serving.
Second, I'm SURE you know this, but you should realize that your OLM can't tell the difference between 90c/qt API SA 30WT and $9/qt Redline synthetic. It basically assumes you're using off-brand API SL conventional and makes decisions from there.


Very well........I suppose one has to realize the owner has to have a certain degree of common sense and ability in order to maximize the potential of the OLM. I stand somewhat corrected.
 
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Has anyone here ever let the OLM do its thing? Let it go off to tell you itis time to change oil? If so what was the condition of oil at that time?
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