anyone ran 16,000 mile oil change on land rover w Castrol Edge Professional EP 0W20/dealer oil?

[apollo18]

i noticed tons of the jag's, land rovers come with a 16,000 mile oil change internal or 1 year whichever is sooner. just curious if anyone did a uoa or had experience following the oem interval and how the oil was? curious regarding the 5.0 engine that those vehicles have

keep in mind, most of those vehicles have a 9 quart ish sump, and i assume a pretty good filter. 0w20 is alarming but wondering if maybe the castrol edge professional E / EC is more stoutier compared to other oils to be able to OCI that long for a seemingly performance engine.

I know people who do self maintenance would definetly cut that OCI in half but looking for feedback from people who followed OEM intervals / the OLM for these engines/vehicle and how the UOA looked!

 

[bullwinkle]

I would be doing oil analysis on anything I wanted to push past 10,000 miles. Maybe Land Rover has discovered a magic oil that could go that far? Not without testing on anything of mine!

 

[cptbarkey]

There are hundreds of "jags" and "land rover" models. Which one?

 

[Oliveoil2]

What year, model and engine?

 

[Escape08]

NO ! I have a 2018 XF. I only run 5K miles OCI on mine using Valvoline EP 0W-20.

 

[MalibuRam65]

Let’s trust Jag and Land Rover on this . Castrol make good products the Manufacturers will not steer you wrong

 

[Vitamin Yoda]

I'll add to that the fact that the manufacturer always, without doubt, has the customer's best interest in mind.

Psst, don't tell anyone, however, that ridiculous OCI is to pass Euro regulations for OCI and fuel economy.

 

[fantastic]

I'd be curious if the OLM would have it go that far in actual use. That 16k may be under perfect driving conditions.

 

[RAVL]

They recommend the long oil change interval because the car will become unreliable and likely be junked at or before 100k so why send a good motor to the yard too? Match the engine life to the rest of the car . . .

Sorry, could not resist. Apologies if I offended any LR enthusiasts or Jaguar enthusiasts.

 

[DwightFrye]

I have a 2021 Jaguar F Type R with the 5 liter supercharged V8. No way would I run more than 5000 miles on an oil and filter, regardless of what the owners manual suggests. My car is still under warranty so I get a free oil & filter change every year which has been equating to less than 5000 miles as it is just a weekend fun car.

I did send a sample of the factory fill oil (Castrol Edge Professional EC5 0W-20) to Blackstone labs for a UOA. The oil only had about 2750 miles on it at that time so the sample is not indicative of how the oil would perform at 16,000 miles. Of note was a much lower PPM of Moly than is average, and a much higher PPM of Platinum than average. So JLR's engineers think that Moly isn't very important and Platinum is and I would keep that in mind when choosing oil. Here's a link to my UOA for whatever it is worth:

Castrol Edge Professional EC5 0W-20 (Factory Fill) 2754 Miles 2021 Jaguar F Type R

I dumped the factory fill oil and changed the filter at 2754 miles on my 2021 Jaguar F Type R and sent the sample to Blackstone Labs. The engine is the 5.0 Liter Supercharged V8. Note that Jaguar/Land Rover requires the specially formulated Castrol Edge Professional EC5, specification...

bobistheoilguy.com

 

[wings&wheels]

I have a '20 RR P400 and I roughly halve the interval; 7k or so. Just cannot bring myself to go the full interval... That said, this is probably the easiest vehicle to change the oil on that I have had.

 

[mm3846]

Absolutely do not run more than 7500mi OCIs.

Every AJV8 or SCV6 that follows the 10k (or more) interval needs timing chain servicing sooner than later.

 

[Escape08]

If you plan to sell the Jag or the LR/RR around 60K to 70K miles then run it at 16K miles OCI JLR requirement on their JLR boutique oil. As others here have said 7500 OCI or less is accecptable but I do mine at 5K miles because I'm keeping my Jag for good. That is the norm nowadays, majority of car owners don't keep their vehicles and sell them at a certain age or mileage or starting to get roblematic, so JLR thought of these, "What the heck?"

 

[Leo99]

Well.... I trust Toyota and their 10k miles OCI. Jags and Rovers don't have the best reputation for reliability and they're more expensive and have different engineering than Toyota so I'd temper my trust in the 16k mile OCI. Good question though, if anyone has any real data doing 16k mile OCIs.

 

[Vitamin Yoda]

I trust Toyota and their 10k miles OCI.

This gentleman begs to differ:


[On another note...]

Engine oil should be changed according to engine hours, or a best guestimate as to how that translates to actual mileage.

Also, there is no such thing as "Castrol EDGE EP Professional 0W-20".

 

[Cujet]

Of note, the modern Jag AJ engines use larger rod bearings in an attempt at compensating for the thin oil. The "father" of the current crop of AJ engines used 5W-30 and 5W-40, were exceptionally durable, and were not known to have bearing probs.

It should come as no surprise the newer engine's rod bearings had a few issues until JLR changed the bearing material. They now hold up acceptably at stock HP levels. Unfortunately, the main bearings were not upsized and they sometimes suffer rapid wear. This high output engine is at the edge of being able to actually hold up on 0W-20.

Same goes for the timing chains. Earlier 0W-20 AJ engines had rapid chain wear, tensioner wear and other problems. That's been partially resolved with better materials.

I use 5W-30 M1 in my F-Type, and will probably switch to M1 "euro" 5W-30 or 5W-40 on the next 5000 mile OCI.

The 0W oils need specific additives to keep the chains alive.

 

[proveitwithdata]

This gentleman begs to differ:


[On another note...]

Engine oil should be changed according to engine hours, or a best guestimate as to how that translates to actual mileage.

Also, there is no such thing as "Castrol EDGE EP Professional 0W-20".

to elaborate a little further is to refer to the service manual included with every new toyota and reading up on when an owner can do severe 5k oil change vs the regular 10k/annual oci.

If the conditions of regular are met, 10k is fine, but those conditions are so rare that everyone just naturally ends up falling in the severe category.

I assume Jlr provides guidance as well?

 

[Vitamin Yoda]

I use 5W-30 M1 in my F-Type, and will probably switch to M1 "euro" 5W-30 or 5W-40 on the next 5000 mile OCI.

I'm running Mobil 1 FS "Euro" 5W-30 in my 2022 Durango GT AWD, in a Pentastar V6, without any negative effects. Fuel mileage is the same. Seems to be a strong GTL and AN based motor oil. Previously I was runnig M1 EP 5W-30. No issues with that one either. IMHO thin oils help fuel economy only under very light loads and idling, but even then, it's questionable, at best, by how much versus rebuilding or replacing an engine.

If the conditions of regular are met, 10k is fine, but those conditions are so rare that everyone just naturally ends up falling in the severe category.

Short tripping, fuel dilution, and improper maintenance is a major contributor. Adding a catch can would enable people to extend OCIs. However, why even mention something like a catch can when most people are ignorant and just go 10K miles or more between oil changes without thinking twice about it, right?

 

[Leo99]

to elaborate a little further is to refer to the service manual included with every new toyota and reading up on when an owner can do severe 5k oil change vs the regular 10k/annual oci.

If the conditions of regular are met, 10k is fine, but those conditions are so rare that everyone just naturally ends up falling in the severe category.

I assume Jlr provides guidance as well?

The wife and I drive a lot of highway miles.

 

[Vitamin Yoda]

The wife and I drive a lot of highway miles.

That helps a lot. Also, since I installed oil catch cans on most of our vehicles, the oil stays cleaner for longer. I guess it helps when the engine doesn't suck oil vapors into the intake, then they condense, then the oil gets turned to gunk in the combustion process, rinse and repeat. I've also noticed a small improvement in fuel economy, since the ECU doesn't have to retard timing as much. Of course, remembering to empty the can and dealing with it is not pleasant.