1998 BMW M3 sedan, 180k miles. Go by the OLM which calculates gallons of gas used used, I think roughly 600 gal. So i do 10k-12k oil changes with 0-30 GC, 0-40 M1, and any 10-30 Synthetic on sale ( even if it is not A3 rated). Has used 2qt during the OCI).
how many miles on your euro-sled
- Thread starter AngryScientist
- Start date
- Status
(these are mine or family members' for whom I maintain their vehicles)
- '00 BMW E46 328Ci with 122k on Chassis/38k on motor and 6MT post-build+SC (stock block); now see's as much track as street use; Redline 0-5W40 and Royal Purple Regular/HPS 5W40; car is driven only in summer, and for street only it gets 4-5k OCI but track use means before and after an event.
- '91 BMW E30 M3 with 139k on Chassis/18k on Euro S50B32 3.2L I6 & 6MT swapped in and built up (original S14 I4 is being built to EVO III spec and then some, taking a long time tho); Redline/RP HPS 0-5W40; OCI of up to 4k miles (never had it away from the track long enough to get to 5K)
- '06 BMW E46 M3 ZCP 6MT with 79K miles (pretty heavily modified but no internal engine mods; mostly suspension/BBK/wheels/full Vorsteiner dual-sided dry CF body parts incl CSL Roof/interior/etc; engine has just a CF CSL intake box/manifold with ducts, Schrick Stg2.5 cams, Rogue Engineering Pulleys, ATI Air Scoops, Ported Throttle Bodies, AA mandrel-bent equal length tubular headers w Swaintech header treatment, Akrapovic full titanium cat-back exhaust with test pipes, UUC Stg1 Ultra-Light Dual-Mass Clutch/Flywheel Kit (24.6lb total for FW+clutch!), UUC/RE/TMS "race" and semi-solid motor/transmission/diff mounts and bushings, and the like; 342rwhp/269rwtq) - OE cams came off at 71k miles and were SPOTLESS; fed nothing but Redline 10W60 since 21k miles and UOA's show zero wear metals; OCI of 4.5-5k miles.
- European E24 M6 with the real 3.8L "M" motor, 92K miles, perfect condition, and it is driven about 3-5k miles a year; it gets its oil changed twice a year, before and after winter storage, and ever since rebuilding the motor it has been doing exceptionally well with RL 10W50
- '95 Euro-spec E34 M5 with the real "M" motor, 108k miles, is a "pseudo-restoration in progress" mainly interior and a few exterior rust spots; drives extremely well though, only changed oil once since I got it
- '03 E39 M5 fully-optioned with 89k miles; has been my DD for a while, has been modified but not to the extremes of some of my other cars (basically, any replacement part is whatever the absolute top of the line aftermarket option is; recently did suspension, for example, including KW V3 coil-overs in place of regular shocks/struts; engine is just a beautiful carbon fiber Dinan dual intake, SuperSprint headers, 80cell metallic cats which only cost about 2.5rwhp over no cats but don't stink, Eisenmann and GruppeM hybrid exhaust, custom dyno tune, UUC Stg1 dual-mass clutch/FW 25lb pkg, UUC Pulleys, Fluidyne Radiator, Stewart Pump, Samco Sport coolant lines, and that's about it; rides on 19x9.5"F and 19x11"R BBS LM's). As my DD, it is going around 5k mile OCI's with either Redline 10W60 or German Castrol 10W60, alternating every so often, which it seems to very much like; and just like all my street cars the manual trans and the diff fluids are replaced every 15-20k miles (Redline D4 ATF & for the variable locking M Diff I use RL 75W140 Shock-Proof with Limited-Slip additive, and it's kept my M Diff's running longer than most!).
Family cars....
- 2001 E46 325i ZSP/5MT/Euro with 177K and a heavily overhauled suspension/bushings/mounts/etc but no engine mods apart from a drop-in AFE ProDryS filter; Royal Purple (SL) Regular, RP HPS, or Redline 0-5w30-40 depending on the temps, AFE or Mahle oil filters, and 7.5k OCI's which have the engine sparkling clean inside, zero sludge
- 1998 E38 740i Sport with 156k and completely OEM except for the addition of 18x9F 18x10.5R M-Parallel wheels and 245's/275's front and rear, and some misc suspension/cooling system enhancements (preventative mostly). RP HPS or RL 0-5W40 every 7.5K, UOA's show it in perfect health.
- '00 BMW E46 328Ci with 122k on Chassis/38k on motor and 6MT post-build+SC (stock block); now see's as much track as street use; Redline 0-5W40 and Royal Purple Regular/HPS 5W40; car is driven only in summer, and for street only it gets 4-5k OCI but track use means before and after an event.
- '91 BMW E30 M3 with 139k on Chassis/18k on Euro S50B32 3.2L I6 & 6MT swapped in and built up (original S14 I4 is being built to EVO III spec and then some, taking a long time tho); Redline/RP HPS 0-5W40; OCI of up to 4k miles (never had it away from the track long enough to get to 5K)
- '06 BMW E46 M3 ZCP 6MT with 79K miles (pretty heavily modified but no internal engine mods; mostly suspension/BBK/wheels/full Vorsteiner dual-sided dry CF body parts incl CSL Roof/interior/etc; engine has just a CF CSL intake box/manifold with ducts, Schrick Stg2.5 cams, Rogue Engineering Pulleys, ATI Air Scoops, Ported Throttle Bodies, AA mandrel-bent equal length tubular headers w Swaintech header treatment, Akrapovic full titanium cat-back exhaust with test pipes, UUC Stg1 Ultra-Light Dual-Mass Clutch/Flywheel Kit (24.6lb total for FW+clutch!), UUC/RE/TMS "race" and semi-solid motor/transmission/diff mounts and bushings, and the like; 342rwhp/269rwtq) - OE cams came off at 71k miles and were SPOTLESS; fed nothing but Redline 10W60 since 21k miles and UOA's show zero wear metals; OCI of 4.5-5k miles.
- European E24 M6 with the real 3.8L "M" motor, 92K miles, perfect condition, and it is driven about 3-5k miles a year; it gets its oil changed twice a year, before and after winter storage, and ever since rebuilding the motor it has been doing exceptionally well with RL 10W50
- '95 Euro-spec E34 M5 with the real "M" motor, 108k miles, is a "pseudo-restoration in progress" mainly interior and a few exterior rust spots; drives extremely well though, only changed oil once since I got it
- '03 E39 M5 fully-optioned with 89k miles; has been my DD for a while, has been modified but not to the extremes of some of my other cars (basically, any replacement part is whatever the absolute top of the line aftermarket option is; recently did suspension, for example, including KW V3 coil-overs in place of regular shocks/struts; engine is just a beautiful carbon fiber Dinan dual intake, SuperSprint headers, 80cell metallic cats which only cost about 2.5rwhp over no cats but don't stink, Eisenmann and GruppeM hybrid exhaust, custom dyno tune, UUC Stg1 dual-mass clutch/FW 25lb pkg, UUC Pulleys, Fluidyne Radiator, Stewart Pump, Samco Sport coolant lines, and that's about it; rides on 19x9.5"F and 19x11"R BBS LM's). As my DD, it is going around 5k mile OCI's with either Redline 10W60 or German Castrol 10W60, alternating every so often, which it seems to very much like; and just like all my street cars the manual trans and the diff fluids are replaced every 15-20k miles (Redline D4 ATF & for the variable locking M Diff I use RL 75W140 Shock-Proof with Limited-Slip additive, and it's kept my M Diff's running longer than most!).
Family cars....
- 2001 E46 325i ZSP/5MT/Euro with 177K and a heavily overhauled suspension/bushings/mounts/etc but no engine mods apart from a drop-in AFE ProDryS filter; Royal Purple (SL) Regular, RP HPS, or Redline 0-5w30-40 depending on the temps, AFE or Mahle oil filters, and 7.5k OCI's which have the engine sparkling clean inside, zero sludge
- 1998 E38 740i Sport with 156k and completely OEM except for the addition of 18x9F 18x10.5R M-Parallel wheels and 245's/275's front and rear, and some misc suspension/cooling system enhancements (preventative mostly). RP HPS or RL 0-5W40 every 7.5K, UOA's show it in perfect health.
2008 Passat
174,000 miles
About 120,000 of those miles with Shell Rotella T6 (and whatever the previous version was)
mods:
- APR Stage 2 (though on stock mode as the stock clutch slips on hills)
- Techntonics Tuning turbo back (twin borla mufflers)
- AWE-Tuning DV kit
- Eibach springs
- Bilstein Sports
- H&R 24mm Rear Sway Bar
- Hella smoked European tail lights
- Rear fog
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: nleksan
(these are mine or family members' for whom I maintain their vehicles)
- '00 BMW E46 328Ci with 122k on Chassis/38k on motor and 6MT post-build+SC (stock block); now see's as much track as street use; Redline 0-5W40 and Royal Purple Regular/HPS 5W40; car is driven only in summer, and for street only it gets 4-5k OCI but track use means before and after an event.
- '91 BMW E30 M3 with 139k on Chassis/18k on Euro S50B32 3.2L I6 & 6MT swapped in and built up (original S14 I4 is being built to EVO III spec and then some, taking a long time tho); Redline/RP HPS 0-5W40; OCI of up to 4k miles (never had it away from the track long enough to get to 5K)
- '06 BMW E46 M3 ZCP 6MT with 79K miles (pretty heavily modified but no internal engine mods; mostly suspension/BBK/wheels/full Vorsteiner dual-sided dry CF body parts incl CSL Roof/interior/etc; engine has just a CF CSL intake box/manifold with ducts, Schrick Stg2.5 cams, Rogue Engineering Pulleys, ATI Air Scoops, Ported Throttle Bodies, AA mandrel-bent equal length tubular headers w Swaintech header treatment, Akrapovic full titanium cat-back exhaust with test pipes, UUC Stg1 Ultra-Light Dual-Mass Clutch/Flywheel Kit (24.6lb total for FW+clutch!), UUC/RE/TMS "race" and semi-solid motor/transmission/diff mounts and bushings, and the like; 342rwhp/269rwtq) - OE cams came off at 71k miles and were SPOTLESS; fed nothing but Redline 10W60 since 21k miles and UOA's show zero wear metals; OCI of 4.5-5k miles.
- European E24 M6 with the real 3.8L "M" motor, 92K miles, perfect condition, and it is driven about 3-5k miles a year; it gets its oil changed twice a year, before and after winter storage, and ever since rebuilding the motor it has been doing exceptionally well with RL 10W50
- '95 Euro-spec E34 M5 with the real "M" motor, 108k miles, is a "pseudo-restoration in progress" mainly interior and a few exterior rust spots; drives extremely well though, only changed oil once since I got it
- '03 E39 M5 fully-optioned with 89k miles; has been my DD for a while, has been modified but not to the extremes of some of my other cars (basically, any replacement part is whatever the absolute top of the line aftermarket option is; recently did suspension, for example, including KW V3 coil-overs in place of regular shocks/struts; engine is just a beautiful carbon fiber Dinan dual intake, SuperSprint headers, 80cell metallic cats which only cost about 2.5rwhp over no cats but don't stink, Eisenmann and GruppeM hybrid exhaust, custom dyno tune, UUC Stg1 dual-mass clutch/FW 25lb pkg, UUC Pulleys, Fluidyne Radiator, Stewart Pump, Samco Sport coolant lines, and that's about it; rides on 19x9.5"F and 19x11"R BBS LM's). As my DD, it is going around 5k mile OCI's with either Redline 10W60 or German Castrol 10W60, alternating every so often, which it seems to very much like; and just like all my street cars the manual trans and the diff fluids are replaced every 15-20k miles (Redline D4 ATF & for the variable locking M Diff I use RL 75W140 Shock-Proof with Limited-Slip additive, and it's kept my M Diff's running longer than most!).
Family cars....
- 2001 E46 325i ZSP/5MT/Euro with 177K and a heavily overhauled suspension/bushings/mounts/etc but no engine mods apart from a drop-in AFE ProDryS filter; Royal Purple (SL) Regular, RP HPS, or Redline 0-5w30-40 depending on the temps, AFE or Mahle oil filters, and 7.5k OCI's which have the engine sparkling clean inside, zero sludge
- 1998 E38 740i Sport with 156k and completely OEM except for the addition of 18x9F 18x10.5R M-Parallel wheels and 245's/275's front and rear, and some misc suspension/cooling system enhancements (preventative mostly). RP HPS or RL 0-5W40 every 7.5K, UOA's show it in perfect health.
My god. Is your family looking to adopt by chance???
(these are mine or family members' for whom I maintain their vehicles)
- '00 BMW E46 328Ci with 122k on Chassis/38k on motor and 6MT post-build+SC (stock block); now see's as much track as street use; Redline 0-5W40 and Royal Purple Regular/HPS 5W40; car is driven only in summer, and for street only it gets 4-5k OCI but track use means before and after an event.
- '91 BMW E30 M3 with 139k on Chassis/18k on Euro S50B32 3.2L I6 & 6MT swapped in and built up (original S14 I4 is being built to EVO III spec and then some, taking a long time tho); Redline/RP HPS 0-5W40; OCI of up to 4k miles (never had it away from the track long enough to get to 5K)
- '06 BMW E46 M3 ZCP 6MT with 79K miles (pretty heavily modified but no internal engine mods; mostly suspension/BBK/wheels/full Vorsteiner dual-sided dry CF body parts incl CSL Roof/interior/etc; engine has just a CF CSL intake box/manifold with ducts, Schrick Stg2.5 cams, Rogue Engineering Pulleys, ATI Air Scoops, Ported Throttle Bodies, AA mandrel-bent equal length tubular headers w Swaintech header treatment, Akrapovic full titanium cat-back exhaust with test pipes, UUC Stg1 Ultra-Light Dual-Mass Clutch/Flywheel Kit (24.6lb total for FW+clutch!), UUC/RE/TMS "race" and semi-solid motor/transmission/diff mounts and bushings, and the like; 342rwhp/269rwtq) - OE cams came off at 71k miles and were SPOTLESS; fed nothing but Redline 10W60 since 21k miles and UOA's show zero wear metals; OCI of 4.5-5k miles.
- European E24 M6 with the real 3.8L "M" motor, 92K miles, perfect condition, and it is driven about 3-5k miles a year; it gets its oil changed twice a year, before and after winter storage, and ever since rebuilding the motor it has been doing exceptionally well with RL 10W50
- '95 Euro-spec E34 M5 with the real "M" motor, 108k miles, is a "pseudo-restoration in progress" mainly interior and a few exterior rust spots; drives extremely well though, only changed oil once since I got it
- '03 E39 M5 fully-optioned with 89k miles; has been my DD for a while, has been modified but not to the extremes of some of my other cars (basically, any replacement part is whatever the absolute top of the line aftermarket option is; recently did suspension, for example, including KW V3 coil-overs in place of regular shocks/struts; engine is just a beautiful carbon fiber Dinan dual intake, SuperSprint headers, 80cell metallic cats which only cost about 2.5rwhp over no cats but don't stink, Eisenmann and GruppeM hybrid exhaust, custom dyno tune, UUC Stg1 dual-mass clutch/FW 25lb pkg, UUC Pulleys, Fluidyne Radiator, Stewart Pump, Samco Sport coolant lines, and that's about it; rides on 19x9.5"F and 19x11"R BBS LM's). As my DD, it is going around 5k mile OCI's with either Redline 10W60 or German Castrol 10W60, alternating every so often, which it seems to very much like; and just like all my street cars the manual trans and the diff fluids are replaced every 15-20k miles (Redline D4 ATF & for the variable locking M Diff I use RL 75W140 Shock-Proof with Limited-Slip additive, and it's kept my M Diff's running longer than most!).
Family cars....
- 2001 E46 325i ZSP/5MT/Euro with 177K and a heavily overhauled suspension/bushings/mounts/etc but no engine mods apart from a drop-in AFE ProDryS filter; Royal Purple (SL) Regular, RP HPS, or Redline 0-5w30-40 depending on the temps, AFE or Mahle oil filters, and 7.5k OCI's which have the engine sparkling clean inside, zero sludge
- 1998 E38 740i Sport with 156k and completely OEM except for the addition of 18x9F 18x10.5R M-Parallel wheels and 245's/275's front and rear, and some misc suspension/cooling system enhancements (preventative mostly). RP HPS or RL 0-5W40 every 7.5K, UOA's show it in perfect health.
My god. Is your family looking to adopt by chance???
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
Originally Posted By: UG_Passat
2008 Passat
174,000 miles
About 120,000 of those miles with Shell Rotella T6 (and whatever the previous version was)
mods:
- APR Stage 2 (though on stock mode as the stock clutch slips on hills)
- Techntonics Tuning turbo back (twin borla mufflers)
- AWE-Tuning DV kit
- Eibach springs
- Bilstein Sports
- H&R 24mm Rear Sway Bar
- Hella smoked European tail lights
- Rear fog
Now question for you:
What kind of issues with engine you had? Intake manifold? Carbon build up?
2008 Passat
174,000 miles
About 120,000 of those miles with Shell Rotella T6 (and whatever the previous version was)
mods:
- APR Stage 2 (though on stock mode as the stock clutch slips on hills)
- Techntonics Tuning turbo back (twin borla mufflers)
- AWE-Tuning DV kit
- Eibach springs
- Bilstein Sports
- H&R 24mm Rear Sway Bar
- Hella smoked European tail lights
- Rear fog
Now question for you:
What kind of issues with engine you had? Intake manifold? Carbon build up?
Originally Posted By: KenO
Originally Posted By: nleksan
(these are mine or family members' for whom I maintain their vehicles)
- '00 BMW E46 328Ci with 122k on Chassis/38k on motor and 6MT post-build+SC (stock block); now see's as much track as street use; Redline 0-5W40 and Royal Purple Regular/HPS 5W40; car is driven only in summer, and for street only it gets 4-5k OCI but track use means before and after an event.
- '91 BMW E30 M3 with 139k on Chassis/18k on Euro S50B32 3.2L I6 & 6MT swapped in and built up (original S14 I4 is being built to EVO III spec and then some, taking a long time tho); Redline/RP HPS 0-5W40; OCI of up to 4k miles (never had it away from the track long enough to get to 5K)
- '06 BMW E46 M3 ZCP 6MT with 79K miles (pretty heavily modified but no internal engine mods; mostly suspension/BBK/wheels/full Vorsteiner dual-sided dry CF body parts incl CSL Roof/interior/etc; engine has just a CF CSL intake box/manifold with ducts, Schrick Stg2.5 cams, Rogue Engineering Pulleys, ATI Air Scoops, Ported Throttle Bodies, AA mandrel-bent equal length tubular headers w Swaintech header treatment, Akrapovic full titanium cat-back exhaust with test pipes, UUC Stg1 Ultra-Light Dual-Mass Clutch/Flywheel Kit (24.6lb total for FW+clutch!), UUC/RE/TMS "race" and semi-solid motor/transmission/diff mounts and bushings, and the like; 342rwhp/269rwtq) - OE cams came off at 71k miles and were SPOTLESS; fed nothing but Redline 10W60 since 21k miles and UOA's show zero wear metals; OCI of 4.5-5k miles.
- European E24 M6 with the real 3.8L "M" motor, 92K miles, perfect condition, and it is driven about 3-5k miles a year; it gets its oil changed twice a year, before and after winter storage, and ever since rebuilding the motor it has been doing exceptionally well with RL 10W50
- '95 Euro-spec E34 M5 with the real "M" motor, 108k miles, is a "pseudo-restoration in progress" mainly interior and a few exterior rust spots; drives extremely well though, only changed oil once since I got it
- '03 E39 M5 fully-optioned with 89k miles; has been my DD for a while, has been modified but not to the extremes of some of my other cars (basically, any replacement part is whatever the absolute top of the line aftermarket option is; recently did suspension, for example, including KW V3 coil-overs in place of regular shocks/struts; engine is just a beautiful carbon fiber Dinan dual intake, SuperSprint headers, 80cell metallic cats which only cost about 2.5rwhp over no cats but don't stink, Eisenmann and GruppeM hybrid exhaust, custom dyno tune, UUC Stg1 dual-mass clutch/FW 25lb pkg, UUC Pulleys, Fluidyne Radiator, Stewart Pump, Samco Sport coolant lines, and that's about it; rides on 19x9.5"F and 19x11"R BBS LM's). As my DD, it is going around 5k mile OCI's with either Redline 10W60 or German Castrol 10W60, alternating every so often, which it seems to very much like; and just like all my street cars the manual trans and the diff fluids are replaced every 15-20k miles (Redline D4 ATF & for the variable locking M Diff I use RL 75W140 Shock-Proof with Limited-Slip additive, and it's kept my M Diff's running longer than most!).
Family cars....
- 2001 E46 325i ZSP/5MT/Euro with 177K and a heavily overhauled suspension/bushings/mounts/etc but no engine mods apart from a drop-in AFE ProDryS filter; Royal Purple (SL) Regular, RP HPS, or Redline 0-5w30-40 depending on the temps, AFE or Mahle oil filters, and 7.5k OCI's which have the engine sparkling clean inside, zero sludge
- 1998 E38 740i Sport with 156k and completely OEM except for the addition of 18x9F 18x10.5R M-Parallel wheels and 245's/275's front and rear, and some misc suspension/cooling system enhancements (preventative mostly). RP HPS or RL 0-5W40 every 7.5K, UOA's show it in perfect health.
My god. Is your family looking to adopt by chance???
lol, I spent all my money on my cars so not really in the financial position to do so
The Bimmers owned by family members are more than the two listed, though (the 328Ci thru E39 M5 list is my own collection), including:
- '09 Z4M Coupe 6MT that I sold to my uncle so I could snatch up both the full European Spec E24 M6 and E34 M5 (I think he's put like 18 miles on it, lol)
- '11 135i Coupe 6MT Sport with 21k miles on it; pretty loaded
- '08 335i Coupe 6MT with a bunch of Active Autowerke parts
- '10 550i Sport 6MT with M-Performance Package with 44k miles on it (very rare Interlagos Blau over Natural Leather via BMW Individual Program)
- '10 M5 with the Dinan 5.7L engine build, Dinan 19x9.5"F & 19x11.5"R wheels (just 19.2lb/ea front and 20.6lb/ea rear! wrapped in Michelin Pilot SuperSports 255/35R19 and 285/30R19), TC Kline Suspension/Coilovers, ACS/Hamann Aero Bits with Vorsteiner CF Accents (this is owned by my brother, he literally bought it sight unseen after I took him out for a spin in my E46 M3, which is built with all genuine or improved CSL parts and then a lot more... just 3 days later he shows up in this M5 and hands me the keys and says "did I do good?", lol!)
Then an uncle has a Lotus Elise (N/A), a second Elise that has been supercharged, an Exige S 240, an old Elan, an Esprit V8, and two Esprit Twin-Turbo's.
I guess my family finds a brand we like, and stick to it!
Originally Posted By: nleksan
(these are mine or family members' for whom I maintain their vehicles)
- '00 BMW E46 328Ci with 122k on Chassis/38k on motor and 6MT post-build+SC (stock block); now see's as much track as street use; Redline 0-5W40 and Royal Purple Regular/HPS 5W40; car is driven only in summer, and for street only it gets 4-5k OCI but track use means before and after an event.
- '91 BMW E30 M3 with 139k on Chassis/18k on Euro S50B32 3.2L I6 & 6MT swapped in and built up (original S14 I4 is being built to EVO III spec and then some, taking a long time tho); Redline/RP HPS 0-5W40; OCI of up to 4k miles (never had it away from the track long enough to get to 5K)
- '06 BMW E46 M3 ZCP 6MT with 79K miles (pretty heavily modified but no internal engine mods; mostly suspension/BBK/wheels/full Vorsteiner dual-sided dry CF body parts incl CSL Roof/interior/etc; engine has just a CF CSL intake box/manifold with ducts, Schrick Stg2.5 cams, Rogue Engineering Pulleys, ATI Air Scoops, Ported Throttle Bodies, AA mandrel-bent equal length tubular headers w Swaintech header treatment, Akrapovic full titanium cat-back exhaust with test pipes, UUC Stg1 Ultra-Light Dual-Mass Clutch/Flywheel Kit (24.6lb total for FW+clutch!), UUC/RE/TMS "race" and semi-solid motor/transmission/diff mounts and bushings, and the like; 342rwhp/269rwtq) - OE cams came off at 71k miles and were SPOTLESS; fed nothing but Redline 10W60 since 21k miles and UOA's show zero wear metals; OCI of 4.5-5k miles.
- European E24 M6 with the real 3.8L "M" motor, 92K miles, perfect condition, and it is driven about 3-5k miles a year; it gets its oil changed twice a year, before and after winter storage, and ever since rebuilding the motor it has been doing exceptionally well with RL 10W50
- '95 Euro-spec E34 M5 with the real "M" motor, 108k miles, is a "pseudo-restoration in progress" mainly interior and a few exterior rust spots; drives extremely well though, only changed oil once since I got it
- '03 E39 M5 fully-optioned with 89k miles; has been my DD for a while, has been modified but not to the extremes of some of my other cars (basically, any replacement part is whatever the absolute top of the line aftermarket option is; recently did suspension, for example, including KW V3 coil-overs in place of regular shocks/struts; engine is just a beautiful carbon fiber Dinan dual intake, SuperSprint headers, 80cell metallic cats which only cost about 2.5rwhp over no cats but don't stink, Eisenmann and GruppeM hybrid exhaust, custom dyno tune, UUC Stg1 dual-mass clutch/FW 25lb pkg, UUC Pulleys, Fluidyne Radiator, Stewart Pump, Samco Sport coolant lines, and that's about it; rides on 19x9.5"F and 19x11"R BBS LM's). As my DD, it is going around 5k mile OCI's with either Redline 10W60 or German Castrol 10W60, alternating every so often, which it seems to very much like; and just like all my street cars the manual trans and the diff fluids are replaced every 15-20k miles (Redline D4 ATF & for the variable locking M Diff I use RL 75W140 Shock-Proof with Limited-Slip additive, and it's kept my M Diff's running longer than most!).
Family cars....
- 2001 E46 325i ZSP/5MT/Euro with 177K and a heavily overhauled suspension/bushings/mounts/etc but no engine mods apart from a drop-in AFE ProDryS filter; Royal Purple (SL) Regular, RP HPS, or Redline 0-5w30-40 depending on the temps, AFE or Mahle oil filters, and 7.5k OCI's which have the engine sparkling clean inside, zero sludge
- 1998 E38 740i Sport with 156k and completely OEM except for the addition of 18x9F 18x10.5R M-Parallel wheels and 245's/275's front and rear, and some misc suspension/cooling system enhancements (preventative mostly). RP HPS or RL 0-5W40 every 7.5K, UOA's show it in perfect health.
My god. Is your family looking to adopt by chance???
lol, I spent all my money on my cars so not really in the financial position to do so
The Bimmers owned by family members are more than the two listed, though (the 328Ci thru E39 M5 list is my own collection), including:
- '09 Z4M Coupe 6MT that I sold to my uncle so I could snatch up both the full European Spec E24 M6 and E34 M5 (I think he's put like 18 miles on it, lol)
- '11 135i Coupe 6MT Sport with 21k miles on it; pretty loaded
- '08 335i Coupe 6MT with a bunch of Active Autowerke parts
- '10 550i Sport 6MT with M-Performance Package with 44k miles on it (very rare Interlagos Blau over Natural Leather via BMW Individual Program)
- '10 M5 with the Dinan 5.7L engine build, Dinan 19x9.5"F & 19x11.5"R wheels (just 19.2lb/ea front and 20.6lb/ea rear! wrapped in Michelin Pilot SuperSports 255/35R19 and 285/30R19), TC Kline Suspension/Coilovers, ACS/Hamann Aero Bits with Vorsteiner CF Accents (this is owned by my brother, he literally bought it sight unseen after I took him out for a spin in my E46 M3, which is built with all genuine or improved CSL parts and then a lot more... just 3 days later he shows up in this M5 and hands me the keys and says "did I do good?", lol!)
Then an uncle has a Lotus Elise (N/A), a second Elise that has been supercharged, an Exige S 240, an old Elan, an Esprit V8, and two Esprit Twin-Turbo's.
I guess my family finds a brand we like, and stick to it!
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Originally Posted By: UG_Passat
2008 Passat
174,000 miles
About 120,000 of those miles with Shell Rotella T6 (and whatever the previous version was)
mods:
- APR Stage 2 (though on stock mode as the stock clutch slips on hills)
- Techntonics Tuning turbo back (twin borla mufflers)
- AWE-Tuning DV kit
- Eibach springs
- Bilstein Sports
- H&R 24mm Rear Sway Bar
- Hella smoked European tail lights
- Rear fog
Now question for you:
What kind of issues with engine you had? Intake manifold? Carbon build up?
"Thrust" sensor (aka the low pressure sensor) on the HPFP went bad.
carbon cleaning was done at 100k miles.
and.. I drive an oil burner...
THe AC compressor clutch & bearing failed about a month ago.
Originally Posted By: UG_Passat
2008 Passat
174,000 miles
About 120,000 of those miles with Shell Rotella T6 (and whatever the previous version was)
mods:
- APR Stage 2 (though on stock mode as the stock clutch slips on hills)
- Techntonics Tuning turbo back (twin borla mufflers)
- AWE-Tuning DV kit
- Eibach springs
- Bilstein Sports
- H&R 24mm Rear Sway Bar
- Hella smoked European tail lights
- Rear fog
Now question for you:
What kind of issues with engine you had? Intake manifold? Carbon build up?
"Thrust" sensor (aka the low pressure sensor) on the HPFP went bad.
carbon cleaning was done at 100k miles.
and.. I drive an oil burner...
THe AC compressor clutch & bearing failed about a month ago.
Last edited:
My new-to-me 2009 C300 6-spd M/T (in my sig) is still a baby at 90,000 km (56,000 miles). I bought it with 44,000 km on it (27,500 miles) in March of 2012.
My brother bought a 2009 323i 6-spd M/T a month or two after I bought my C300. He's got about 115,000 km now (72,000 miles).
Both generally get M1 0W40, and neither have had any real issues as of yet, although we both had to get our blower motors replaced after last winter as they were both making squeaking noises. Both were Behr motors... Coincidence? lol
My brother bought a 2009 323i 6-spd M/T a month or two after I bought my C300. He's got about 115,000 km now (72,000 miles).
Both generally get M1 0W40, and neither have had any real issues as of yet, although we both had to get our blower motors replaced after last winter as they were both making squeaking noises. Both were Behr motors... Coincidence? lol
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
Originally Posted By: UG_Passat
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Originally Posted By: UG_Passat
2008 Passat
174,000 miles
About 120,000 of those miles with Shell Rotella T6 (and whatever the previous version was)
mods:
- APR Stage 2 (though on stock mode as the stock clutch slips on hills)
- Techntonics Tuning turbo back (twin borla mufflers)
- AWE-Tuning DV kit
- Eibach springs
- Bilstein Sports
- H&R 24mm Rear Sway Bar
- Hella smoked European tail lights
- Rear fog
Now question for you:
What kind of issues with engine you had? Intake manifold? Carbon build up?
"Thrust" sensor (aka the low pressure sensor) on the HPFP went bad.
carbon cleaning was done at 100k miles.
and.. I drive an oil burner...
THe AC compressor clutch & bearing failed about a month ago.
Just checking. I have 61k on TSi, so far never had any issues with the car. It does not burn literally a drop of oil (GC orM1).
I think I will keep it for long time so that is why I asked.
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Originally Posted By: UG_Passat
2008 Passat
174,000 miles
About 120,000 of those miles with Shell Rotella T6 (and whatever the previous version was)
mods:
- APR Stage 2 (though on stock mode as the stock clutch slips on hills)
- Techntonics Tuning turbo back (twin borla mufflers)
- AWE-Tuning DV kit
- Eibach springs
- Bilstein Sports
- H&R 24mm Rear Sway Bar
- Hella smoked European tail lights
- Rear fog
Now question for you:
What kind of issues with engine you had? Intake manifold? Carbon build up?
"Thrust" sensor (aka the low pressure sensor) on the HPFP went bad.
carbon cleaning was done at 100k miles.
and.. I drive an oil burner...
THe AC compressor clutch & bearing failed about a month ago.
Just checking. I have 61k on TSi, so far never had any issues with the car. It does not burn literally a drop of oil (GC orM1).
I think I will keep it for long time so that is why I asked.
Originally Posted By: Garak
The Europeans wanted a thicker oil under hot conditions for years, and thin oils, including 5w-20, in the winter. Higher VI oils and the introduction of the ACEA regime allowed for grades that could be used year round, such as 5w-40, 0w-40, and so forth.
According to my XJ manual the 5.0 V8 is specced for 5w20 and has been since the new XJ came out. Not sure about what occured previously.
5w40 or 0w40 started to be phased out when Euro 4 engines started to be fitted with DPFs.
By far the most common oil is 5w30 of varying specs.
As far as miles on my Euro Sled goes my XJL is on 90231miles as of this morning, will be two years old at the end of November!
Using it for Chauffeur and Uber work so miles should continue to build at a similar rate.
Thinking of running it to 200k or maybe 300k depending on how reliable she turns ou. Full Jag Service History with Watford Jaguar which specialises in Jaguar Chauffeur vehicle.
Just found out the cambelt is due at just over 110k and it will cost a grand! Wibble.....
The Europeans wanted a thicker oil under hot conditions for years, and thin oils, including 5w-20, in the winter. Higher VI oils and the introduction of the ACEA regime allowed for grades that could be used year round, such as 5w-40, 0w-40, and so forth.
According to my XJ manual the 5.0 V8 is specced for 5w20 and has been since the new XJ came out. Not sure about what occured previously.
5w40 or 0w40 started to be phased out when Euro 4 engines started to be fitted with DPFs.
By far the most common oil is 5w30 of varying specs.
As far as miles on my Euro Sled goes my XJL is on 90231miles as of this morning, will be two years old at the end of November!
Using it for Chauffeur and Uber work so miles should continue to build at a similar rate.
Thinking of running it to 200k or maybe 300k depending on how reliable she turns ou. Full Jag Service History with Watford Jaguar which specialises in Jaguar Chauffeur vehicle.
Just found out the cambelt is due at just over 110k and it will cost a grand! Wibble.....
Last edited:
Yep, things are changing in Europe, too. As for $1000+ timing belts, that's been seen on this side of the pond, too!
Originally Posted By: bigjl
Originally Posted By: Garak
The Europeans wanted a thicker oil under hot conditions for years, and thin oils, including 5w-20, in the winter. Higher VI oils and the introduction of the ACEA regime allowed for grades that could be used year round, such as 5w-40, 0w-40, and so forth.
According to my XJ manual the 5.0 V8 is specced for 5w20 and has been since the new XJ came out. Not sure about what occured previously.
5w40 or 0w40 started to be phased out when Euro 4 engines started to be fitted with DPFs.
By far the most common oil is 5w30 of varying specs.
As far as miles on my Euro Sled goes my XJL is on 90231miles as of this morning, will be two years old at the end of November!
Using it for Chauffeur and Uber work so miles should continue to build at a similar rate.
Thinking of running it to 200k or maybe 300k depending on how reliable she turns ou. Full Jag Service History with Watford Jaguar which specialises in Jaguar Chauffeur vehicle.
Just found out the cambelt is due at just over 110k and it will cost a grand! Wibble.....
My 94 Xj12 has about 73 or 74K on it. I don't even recall what I put in it the 90's, but then I went to Mobil 1 15/50, and the last decade or so it's had M1 10/30 in it.
The Xj8 had dealer supplied Castrol 5w30 mineral oil in it while it was under warranty on Jaguar's dime, and on my dime its had whatever 5w30 synthetic that I can find on the cheap, changed annually. It's got maybe 31 or 32K on it now, we've actually driven it some in the last year.
Most ( virtually all ) of the time, I drive the G8 and my wife drives the Torrent. It's been well over year since the Solstice or the Xj12 has moved. The Solstice had cobwebs under it last time I looked at it.
Originally Posted By: Garak
The Europeans wanted a thicker oil under hot conditions for years, and thin oils, including 5w-20, in the winter. Higher VI oils and the introduction of the ACEA regime allowed for grades that could be used year round, such as 5w-40, 0w-40, and so forth.
According to my XJ manual the 5.0 V8 is specced for 5w20 and has been since the new XJ came out. Not sure about what occured previously.
5w40 or 0w40 started to be phased out when Euro 4 engines started to be fitted with DPFs.
By far the most common oil is 5w30 of varying specs.
As far as miles on my Euro Sled goes my XJL is on 90231miles as of this morning, will be two years old at the end of November!
Using it for Chauffeur and Uber work so miles should continue to build at a similar rate.
Thinking of running it to 200k or maybe 300k depending on how reliable she turns ou. Full Jag Service History with Watford Jaguar which specialises in Jaguar Chauffeur vehicle.
Just found out the cambelt is due at just over 110k and it will cost a grand! Wibble.....
My 94 Xj12 has about 73 or 74K on it. I don't even recall what I put in it the 90's, but then I went to Mobil 1 15/50, and the last decade or so it's had M1 10/30 in it.
The Xj8 had dealer supplied Castrol 5w30 mineral oil in it while it was under warranty on Jaguar's dime, and on my dime its had whatever 5w30 synthetic that I can find on the cheap, changed annually. It's got maybe 31 or 32K on it now, we've actually driven it some in the last year.
Most ( virtually all ) of the time, I drive the G8 and my wife drives the Torrent. It's been well over year since the Solstice or the Xj12 has moved. The Solstice had cobwebs under it last time I looked at it.
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
Originally Posted By: bigjl
Originally Posted By: Garak
The Europeans wanted a thicker oil under hot conditions for years, and thin oils, including 5w-20, in the winter. Higher VI oils and the introduction of the ACEA regime allowed for grades that could be used year round, such as 5w-40, 0w-40, and so forth.
According to my XJ manual the 5.0 V8 is specced for 5w20 and has been since the new XJ came out. Not sure about what occured previously.
5w40 or 0w40 started to be phased out when Euro 4 engines started to be fitted with DPFs.
By far the most common oil is 5w30 of varying specs.
As far as miles on my Euro Sled goes my XJL is on 90231miles as of this morning, will be two years old at the end of November!
Using it for Chauffeur and Uber work so miles should continue to build at a similar rate.
Thinking of running it to 200k or maybe 300k depending on how reliable she turns ou. Full Jag Service History with Watford Jaguar which specialises in Jaguar Chauffeur vehicle.
Just found out the cambelt is due at just over 110k and it will cost a grand! Wibble.....
This is true about 5W30 oils in Europe.
However, and this is big however, Euro 5W30 oils (like VW 504/507 or BMW LL04, MB 229.51) are thick 30 oils. Much more thicker then 5W30 oil you can find in Wal Mart or any oil change place in the US.
Originally Posted By: Garak
The Europeans wanted a thicker oil under hot conditions for years, and thin oils, including 5w-20, in the winter. Higher VI oils and the introduction of the ACEA regime allowed for grades that could be used year round, such as 5w-40, 0w-40, and so forth.
According to my XJ manual the 5.0 V8 is specced for 5w20 and has been since the new XJ came out. Not sure about what occured previously.
5w40 or 0w40 started to be phased out when Euro 4 engines started to be fitted with DPFs.
By far the most common oil is 5w30 of varying specs.
As far as miles on my Euro Sled goes my XJL is on 90231miles as of this morning, will be two years old at the end of November!
Using it for Chauffeur and Uber work so miles should continue to build at a similar rate.
Thinking of running it to 200k or maybe 300k depending on how reliable she turns ou. Full Jag Service History with Watford Jaguar which specialises in Jaguar Chauffeur vehicle.
Just found out the cambelt is due at just over 110k and it will cost a grand! Wibble.....
This is true about 5W30 oils in Europe.
However, and this is big however, Euro 5W30 oils (like VW 504/507 or BMW LL04, MB 229.51) are thick 30 oils. Much more thicker then 5W30 oil you can find in Wal Mart or any oil change place in the US.
For sure. The European 5w30s are rare here, but we are seeing a couple new 5w30 HDEOs at least, and they have some European diesel specs.
Originally Posted By: Garak
Yep, things are changing in Europe, too. As for $1000+ timing belts, that's been seen on this side of the pond, too!
Wish it was $1000. It is £1000 sob, plus £50 for a water pump.
Could be worse to do the cambelt on the 2.7 d Discovery 3 the official procedure was to lift the body off the chassis.
Which is why you never buy one with just over 100k on the clock unless it hss been done.
There were two cambeltd on the 2.7d but i found out when looking into a D3 prior to buying the Pathfinder that the resr belt did indeed run off the camshaft but it only run the diesel pump so you could ignore it and save big money or find one of the many specialists that have found a work around.
I think the US is missing a trick in not selling the 3.0d as it goes like stink.
A bit behind the 3.0 v6 supercharged version i think and the 5.0v8 without a SC. But the midtorque is immense.
I think it is something like 440 ftlbs and around 275bhp.
Not bad numbers for a 3.0d.
The 6speed autobox is also a solid ZF one.
Yep, things are changing in Europe, too. As for $1000+ timing belts, that's been seen on this side of the pond, too!
Wish it was $1000. It is £1000 sob, plus £50 for a water pump.
Could be worse to do the cambelt on the 2.7 d Discovery 3 the official procedure was to lift the body off the chassis.
Which is why you never buy one with just over 100k on the clock unless it hss been done.
There were two cambeltd on the 2.7d but i found out when looking into a D3 prior to buying the Pathfinder that the resr belt did indeed run off the camshaft but it only run the diesel pump so you could ignore it and save big money or find one of the many specialists that have found a work around.
I think the US is missing a trick in not selling the 3.0d as it goes like stink.
A bit behind the 3.0 v6 supercharged version i think and the 5.0v8 without a SC. But the midtorque is immense.
I think it is something like 440 ftlbs and around 275bhp.
Not bad numbers for a 3.0d.
The 6speed autobox is also a solid ZF one.
What about the A5/B5 oils edyvw?
They have low HTHS for economy.
Are they considerd a thick 5w30.
It is interesting that Ford, Volvo and Jaguar Land Rover seem to be the first to use the low HTHS oils widely, since back in the '90s when they were badged as Zetec oils for Ford Zetec engines.
Now the Ford etc are introducing more vehicles that are specced for 5w20 oils.
All along the first producer of these oils has been Castrol.
They have low HTHS for economy.
Are they considerd a thick 5w30.
It is interesting that Ford, Volvo and Jaguar Land Rover seem to be the first to use the low HTHS oils widely, since back in the '90s when they were badged as Zetec oils for Ford Zetec engines.
Now the Ford etc are introducing more vehicles that are specced for 5w20 oils.
All along the first producer of these oils has been Castrol.
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
Originally Posted By: bigjl
What about the A5/B5 oils edyvw?
They have low HTHS for economy.
Are they considerd a thick 5w30.
It is interesting that Ford, Volvo and Jaguar Land Rover seem to be the first to use the low HTHS oils widely, since back in the '90s when they were badged as Zetec oils for Ford Zetec engines.
Now the Ford etc are introducing more vehicles that are specced for 5w20 oils.
All along the first producer of these oils has been Castrol.
I agree with that. Those companies are using ACEA A5.
But, rest are not that fast to go with low HTHS.
Personally, I would never trust that oil on Autobahn, especially in turbo application.
They are using it to meet gas mileage. What about longetivity of engine?
I do not want even to know about 5W20 oils.
What about the A5/B5 oils edyvw?
They have low HTHS for economy.
Are they considerd a thick 5w30.
It is interesting that Ford, Volvo and Jaguar Land Rover seem to be the first to use the low HTHS oils widely, since back in the '90s when they were badged as Zetec oils for Ford Zetec engines.
Now the Ford etc are introducing more vehicles that are specced for 5w20 oils.
All along the first producer of these oils has been Castrol.
I agree with that. Those companies are using ACEA A5.
But, rest are not that fast to go with low HTHS.
Personally, I would never trust that oil on Autobahn, especially in turbo application.
They are using it to meet gas mileage. What about longetivity of engine?
I do not want even to know about 5W20 oils.
The A5/B5 oils are what has been running nearly every petrol and diesel Ford in the UK for going on for Twenty years.
Not sure about rest of Europe.
My old Mondeo was on over 250k when the mate i sold it to got rid. Original turbo. My V50 i just sold had over 150k on it, original turbo.
Both had been driven to Scotland and back several times. I travel in the quiet times to avoid traffic. I also tend to do the first 380 miles without a stop.
There are lots of Ford and Volvo fars around Europe with big miles.
It is also now in the Pathfinder, worshop manual confirmed i can run B5, Mobil Super3000 X1 FE also has low saps at 0.8 so safe for the dpf.
Got an extra 0.6mpg out of it in the same duties it has always done.
Not a miracle but any improvment on 22.3mpg is handy.
It will easily do 35mpg on a long run at a steady 70odd.
I would be more concerned using a 5w20 than an A5/B5 5w30.
Why?
Not sure. Just my opinion.
A5/B5 are well tested oils in Europe.
It is interesting how two groups of engineers on different sides of the pond can come up with different ideas to solve a similar issue, improved economy.
Not sure about rest of Europe.
My old Mondeo was on over 250k when the mate i sold it to got rid. Original turbo. My V50 i just sold had over 150k on it, original turbo.
Both had been driven to Scotland and back several times. I travel in the quiet times to avoid traffic. I also tend to do the first 380 miles without a stop.
There are lots of Ford and Volvo fars around Europe with big miles.
It is also now in the Pathfinder, worshop manual confirmed i can run B5, Mobil Super3000 X1 FE also has low saps at 0.8 so safe for the dpf.
Got an extra 0.6mpg out of it in the same duties it has always done.
Not a miracle but any improvment on 22.3mpg is handy.
It will easily do 35mpg on a long run at a steady 70odd.
I would be more concerned using a 5w20 than an A5/B5 5w30.
Why?
Not sure. Just my opinion.
A5/B5 are well tested oils in Europe.
It is interesting how two groups of engineers on different sides of the pond can come up with different ideas to solve a similar issue, improved economy.
Originally Posted By: bigjl
...
I think the US is missing a trick in not selling the 3.0d as it goes like stink.
...
Jaguar USA never gave us much variety here in the Xj sedan, at least compared to the European market.
In '94, you could get the six or the twelve.
In 2004, you could get the eight, normally aspirated or supercharged. That was it, even though a six and a diesel six were available in other markets.
Finally, they are now offering the 3.0 six in the XJ sedan here, but it's only the gasoline variant, and I'm sure it's only because of CAFE.
I doubt there will ever be a diesel Jaguar here. I probably wouldn't buy one ( or any other diesel passenger car, for that matter ).
...
I think the US is missing a trick in not selling the 3.0d as it goes like stink.
...
Jaguar USA never gave us much variety here in the Xj sedan, at least compared to the European market.
In '94, you could get the six or the twelve.
In 2004, you could get the eight, normally aspirated or supercharged. That was it, even though a six and a diesel six were available in other markets.
Finally, they are now offering the 3.0 six in the XJ sedan here, but it's only the gasoline variant, and I'm sure it's only because of CAFE.
I doubt there will ever be a diesel Jaguar here. I probably wouldn't buy one ( or any other diesel passenger car, for that matter ).
Well at least you get the AWD versions of the XF and XJ!
To expensive to engineer to rhd.
Their biggest market is likely to be Canada i would think.
The thing with these big lwb saloons with a diesel engine is the economy on a long journey.
I drove 80miles home after collecting it.
60mph average on the first 40odd miles then some 70mph roads for the rest of the way.
And it returned over 55mpg, imperial gallons not sure how to adjust for US gallons.
You don't think 440 ftlbs of torque would convert you?
To expensive to engineer to rhd.
Their biggest market is likely to be Canada i would think.
The thing with these big lwb saloons with a diesel engine is the economy on a long journey.
I drove 80miles home after collecting it.
60mph average on the first 40odd miles then some 70mph roads for the rest of the way.
And it returned over 55mpg, imperial gallons not sure how to adjust for US gallons.
You don't think 440 ftlbs of torque would convert you?
Last edited:
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