How many miles is Toyota factory oil filter good

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I have never been a big fan of Toyota filters in my Tundra V-8 engine. I can always expect lots of engine noise (rattling, ticking and knocking) on cold starts. My theory is that the ADBV doesn't create a good enough seal to hold the oil in the can overnight. So this problem creates a dry start every morning. Here is a link to an informal study done by one of our BITOG oil filter experts, widman:

http://www.widman.biz/Seleccion/Motores/Filters/Filters-2008/filters-2008.html

His results point to the pressure relief valve being undersized. So if you put his theory together with mine, then the Toyota OEM filters might not be the best choice for you either.

If you determine that the Toyota filter works well for you, then I would change it at 5K mile intervals and call it a day.
 
Funny, I've been using the same filter, same conditions without a single problem in 7 years. Some have had piston slap and exhaust manifold issues, exacerbated by a cold engine, which would not be related to the filter. Not saying this is your problem, but with all filters, you shouldn't buy a bulk supply of these things and let them sit around on a shelf. As the rubbers cure they can give off acids which eats at the steel and affects the seal.
 
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Originally Posted By: Tones
Funny, I've been using the same filter, same conditions without a single problem in 7 years. Some have had piston slap and exhaust manifold issues, exacerbated by a cold engine, which would not be related to the filter. Not saying this is your problem, but with all filters, you shouldn't buy a bulk supply of these things and let them sit around on a shelf. As the rubbers cure they can give off acids which eats at the steel and affects the seal.


Well, like I said, if the Toyota filter works well for you, then stay with it. I've been trouble shooting this problem for 9+ years with my Tundra on cold or warm mornings. Now that I've narrowed it down to a single variable, the engine oil filter is the common denominator. I won't waist my money on anymore Toyota filters for this truck.
 
Originally Posted By: Tones
You've got the right idea. They can likely go 10k miles. I would not push it beyond that without analysis.


What analysis are you talking about? What exactly are you looking for in the analysis to tell you the filter will go longer than 10K and you don't need to change it?
 
I had the same start up noise in the mornings with Toyota filters. Ran Amsoil filters and now Mobil One...noise went bye, bye.
 
9+ years with a Tundra? a '99 model?

The filter designs have changed a couple times in that time. Every filter design has given you trouble? The insolubles is what I would look for to ensure the filter was still doing its job. Certainly, it would not be worth pushing much beyond 10k. Amsoil makes filters for these longer intervals.
 
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It's actually a 2000 Tundra that I bought on 9/4/99. Many of us had problems with start-up noise back then (on Tundrasolutions.com). Most complained about it sounding like a diesel engine when cold out. But there was also rattling, ticking, and knocking with some at any temperature. I eventually broke away from the free dealer oil changes and tried Pennzoil Synthetic 5W-30 (SG or SL?) and a PureOne filter. The start-up noises went away. There was a guy that cut open a Toyota Tundra OEM filter (YBBZ5 I think the number was back then) that he had just bought from a dealer. He said the filter media crumbled in his fingers when he tried to examine it. That was enough information for me to make the switch. The timing couldn't have been worse either, because I had just bought 5 of the filters to start doing my own oil changes.
 
Originally Posted By: bigsteve
Should I go with a donaldson filter? where can I get them or would a Mobil 1 filter be good?


I am interested in trying the Donaldson P-series too. I've never seen them in an auto parts store though. It looks like AMSOIL distributes them now. Their website doesn't show a part number for my applications though. I'll check with Gary Allan when I'm ready to pull the trigger.

I've tried a M1 filter before, but don't remember how well it worked. PureOne and Wix filters have been consistently good in the past for me though.
 
Originally Posted By: INDYMAC
Originally Posted By: Tones
You've got the right idea. They can likely go 10k miles. I would not push it beyond that without analysis.


What analysis are you talking about? What exactly are you looking for in the analysis to tell you the filter will go longer than 10K and you don't need to change it?


I go by the "insoluables". I'd run Wix filters up to 15,000 miles in Subarus with insoluables at 0.2-0.3. The rest of the UOA was stellar also. It's a waste of time and money to change them out more often when you get results like that time after time.
 
o5 tacoma v6 I use a fl-1a (PH8A) size filter. Another size that aloso works is the one for a keep liberty.

Been runing the FL-1a size filter for 65,000 miles no issues at all. eta not just one filter.
 
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Originally Posted By: INDYMAC
...There was a guy that cut open a Toyota Tundra OEM filter (YBBZ5 I think the number was back then) that he had just bought from a dealer. He said the filter media crumbled in his fingers when he tried to examine it. That was enough information for me to make the switch. The timing couldn't have been worse either, because I had just bought 5 of the filters to start doing my own oil changes.

Not trying to hijack this thread, but I think this needs addressing. Have you cut one of these open yourself? I assume not because I have. Like its predecessor the -1009, The -B5 has a media that looks like a fiberglass mat embedded in a resin on a plastic cage. I could not tear the media apart with my hands it was so strong. A well made filter. Much better than paper. I have never heard of a story like that, his experience must have been a fluke.
 
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Toyota filters for my Sienna are made by ArvinMeritor (Puralator).

Toyota does specify some different components from the base white Purolator.

I found the factory Toyota filters to be a good value from the dealer.

They were higher than the base Purolator but cheaper than the PureOne.
 
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