Have 823 miles on my new 5.7L Hemi! I have never had a new auto! Should I drain the factory fill at 1K miles or wait until 3K? Almost all the miles have been highway.
How many miles for first oil change?
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Well, I'd first look into the owners manual. Highway miles are the easiest for any engine. Most newer engines today require the 1st oil/filter change to go much further than years ago to aid in breakin. 3000 miles is typicaly the 1st oil change interval(OCI) now and 5000 could be had but, others will chime in with better advise than I.
JHZR2
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What does the manual say, and do they use a special break-in oil?
Follow the manual. Every analysis I've had came back fine when waiting the 3-4k they recommended. People mention "all the metal floating around".......that's what filters are for. I'd be more concerned with differentials and manual transmissions with no filters.....
I think some German cars with large sumps allow 10-15k on the factory fill. In those cases, I might cut it in half.
I think some German cars with large sumps allow 10-15k on the factory fill. In those cases, I might cut it in half.
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I'd love to post a FF UOA from someone who ran it 5,000 miles in the UOA section, saying it was from an engine with 40K miles on it. We'd see just how much junk the filter grabs, or doesn't. I bet people would freak.
Just thinking out loud that's all. No comment on what I do with the FF. We've been down this road time and time again, there are plenty of healthy engines running great leaving the FF in the full OCI, or dumping it early. OP do what makes you feel better.
Just thinking out loud that's all. No comment on what I do with the FF. We've been down this road time and time again, there are plenty of healthy engines running great leaving the FF in the full OCI, or dumping it early. OP do what makes you feel better.
I always dump it at about half of the recommended OCI from the manual and then start into the recommended OCI while under warranty. Making the first two oil changes half of the recommended OCI. On my Subaru I did a 3750 and 3750 OCI and then every 7500 after that so that it is easy to remember at the 7500 mark. It has about 19k miles on it now. I honestly don't think it will matter either way, but I like the piece of mind of draining it a little early.
Manual CLAIMS there is NO need for engine break in! I find that very hard to swallow.
Manual also says factory fill is Pennzoil 5W-20. {Nothing More}.
Been doing a lot of reading via the Net on this question I asked.
3/4 of the answers I read or received was change the FF at 1K miles. The Rest basically said-->Don't worry about it.
I for sure will not go past 3K miles on the FF.
I now have 2 Incredibly strong neodymium magnets, attached to the oil filter to help hold some of the finer metal shavings.
They will also be used for the rest of the 5.7L Life. I have used these magnets on all our autos and have cut open every other filter to see exactly what they stopped. I was very impressed with what I found--->Made me a real believer in this method.
I still have 200 miles to decide what I want to do. But thanks for all your replies and advice.
I am kinda leaning towards the OC at 1K miles for my first change.
Especially after chatting with a few other Hemi owners.
Please keep the advice flowing! I'm always open minded.
Just a side note! I do agree the Transmission and Rearend are just as important on a new auto.
Transmission is 8HP70 Fill for Life Fluid-->[censored]! Rearend will get a new deep aluminum cover and fresh Amsoil Fluid at 15K miles. Cover will have a drain plug and fill plug for Easy Fast Future Fluid Changes.
Manual also says factory fill is Pennzoil 5W-20. {Nothing More}.
Been doing a lot of reading via the Net on this question I asked.
3/4 of the answers I read or received was change the FF at 1K miles. The Rest basically said-->Don't worry about it.
I for sure will not go past 3K miles on the FF.
I now have 2 Incredibly strong neodymium magnets, attached to the oil filter to help hold some of the finer metal shavings.
They will also be used for the rest of the 5.7L Life. I have used these magnets on all our autos and have cut open every other filter to see exactly what they stopped. I was very impressed with what I found--->Made me a real believer in this method.
I still have 200 miles to decide what I want to do. But thanks for all your replies and advice.
I am kinda leaning towards the OC at 1K miles for my first change.
Especially after chatting with a few other Hemi owners.
Please keep the advice flowing! I'm always open minded.
Just a side note! I do agree the Transmission and Rearend are just as important on a new auto.
Transmission is 8HP70 Fill for Life Fluid-->[censored]! Rearend will get a new deep aluminum cover and fresh Amsoil Fluid at 15K miles. Cover will have a drain plug and fill plug for Easy Fast Future Fluid Changes.
I'd wait till the 3,000 mile recommendation. You want to give the assembly lubes a chance to polish & burnish the parts without fear of scuffing. Ed
Better to break in around town stop and go the first couple days, but well that's done now - for better or worse
. I used to do an early dump, but i'd say 2500 would be prudent - not too soon and not too long. If you're worried about the filter bypassing junk, you could always do a filter change and top off.
. I used to do an early dump, but i'd say 2500 would be prudent - not too soon and not too long. If you're worried about the filter bypassing junk, you could always do a filter change and top off.
Any pictures of it?
I'd go half the recommended OCI- say 1500-2000 miles. Be sure to vary speed- don't set the cruise and forget it for half an hour. Highway driving is fine, just don't fixate on a single RPM. Then fresh oil, fresh filter, and enjoy that Hemi. They're wonderful engines!
I am very curious to hear what you think of the 8HP70 transmission. The 545RFE that its replacing will be a hard act to follow reliability-wise.
The one aftermarket gizmo I'd recommend is a PCV catch can. The engine has a built-in oil separator on the side of the intake manifold where the removable PCV valve sits (looks like a little oil cap/dipstick) but some vapor and mist still get by. My catch can accumulates about a tablespoon per thousand miles. Dump it at every oil change. I used this one:
http://www.shophemi.com/p-2551-se-hemi-catch-can-by-arrington-performance.aspx
My actual installation (Challenger 392, but you can put it in Rams similarly):
I am very curious to hear what you think of the 8HP70 transmission. The 545RFE that its replacing will be a hard act to follow reliability-wise.
The one aftermarket gizmo I'd recommend is a PCV catch can. The engine has a built-in oil separator on the side of the intake manifold where the removable PCV valve sits (looks like a little oil cap/dipstick) but some vapor and mist still get by. My catch can accumulates about a tablespoon per thousand miles. Dump it at every oil change. I used this one:
http://www.shophemi.com/p-2551-se-hemi-catch-can-by-arrington-performance.aspx
My actual installation (Challenger 392, but you can put it in Rams similarly):
Good see this USA vehicle came with an OEM manual, unlike earlier threads.
Next step is just apply what it recommends.
Reading some posts I would like to understand what drives the feeling on BITOG that the OEM engineers some how may get it wrong despite the extensive warranty that comes with new vehicles.
Next step is just apply what it recommends.
Reading some posts I would like to understand what drives the feeling on BITOG that the OEM engineers some how may get it wrong despite the extensive warranty that comes with new vehicles.
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Why not just follow what the manual says?
Back then we changed the FF out at 1000 miles and OCIs were 3000 miles. Today, OCIs have been extended to 5000 miles or more but yet we are still changing FF at 1000 miles?
Waste, waste and waste.
Back then we changed the FF out at 1000 miles and OCIs were 3000 miles. Today, OCIs have been extended to 5000 miles or more but yet we are still changing FF at 1000 miles?
Waste, waste and waste.
Thre is high probability of a LOT of junk accumulating in the pan and in the filter through initial break in. Many filters could washout large particulate if they go into bypass - and this can happen during on-off-on throttle at mid-high rpm with hot oil. And today's HO engines ARE harder ON OIL THAN THE in PAST with: multiple valves and cams, miniature, stationary HLA; long, multiple timing chains and polymer tensioners; 1-2 mil bearing clearances; oil toasting cast-in-head Exhaust runners, etc.
Trust Modern Machining and building practices? Just a few years ago, Subaru/Fuji skipped a crank drill cleaning post machining and had hundreds of failed EJ255 motors in the states on their turbo wagons and cars.
Trust Modern Machining and building practices? Just a few years ago, Subaru/Fuji skipped a crank drill cleaning post machining and had hundreds of failed EJ255 motors in the states on their turbo wagons and cars.
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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Thre is high probability of a LOT of junk accumulating in the pan and in the filter through initial break in. Many filters could washout large particulate if they go into bypass - and this can happen during on-off-on throttle at mid-high rpm with hot oil. And today's HO engines ARE harder ON OIL THAN THE in PAST with: multiple valves and cams, miniature, stationary HLA; long, multiple timing chains and polymer tensioners; 1-2 mil bearing clearances; oil toasting cast-in-head Exhaust runners, etc.
Trust Modern Machining and building practices? Just a few years ago, Subaru/Fuji skipped a crank drill cleaning post machining and had hundreds of failed EJ255 motors in the states on their turbo wagons and cars.
This. Unless you have some fancy factory fill (Subaru and some other manufacturers do), I would dump it at 1K for cheap insurance. Just to be clear, insurance is (on average) a waste of money. But when you need it, you really need it. I just did this last night on my 1100 mile 2014 Ford Focus SE.
Thre is high probability of a LOT of junk accumulating in the pan and in the filter through initial break in. Many filters could washout large particulate if they go into bypass - and this can happen during on-off-on throttle at mid-high rpm with hot oil. And today's HO engines ARE harder ON OIL THAN THE in PAST with: multiple valves and cams, miniature, stationary HLA; long, multiple timing chains and polymer tensioners; 1-2 mil bearing clearances; oil toasting cast-in-head Exhaust runners, etc.
Trust Modern Machining and building practices? Just a few years ago, Subaru/Fuji skipped a crank drill cleaning post machining and had hundreds of failed EJ255 motors in the states on their turbo wagons and cars.
This. Unless you have some fancy factory fill (Subaru and some other manufacturers do), I would dump it at 1K for cheap insurance. Just to be clear, insurance is (on average) a waste of money. But when you need it, you really need it. I just did this last night on my 1100 mile 2014 Ford Focus SE.
I'd dump it at 2-3k miles
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