How long on factory fill?

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I have typically changed the oil on new cars within the first 1500 miles or so in the past. Is there any reason to keep the original factory fill oil longer than that in our new Mazda 3?
 
No! Their is no scientific reason to keep break-in oil in beyound this!Jasper,AC/Delco,GM Performance Part's and a whole list of others that are not concerned with intial cost of ownership numbers will usualy direct you change the oil at the latest with in 500 miles. I usualy tell people to change within 600-1000 miles based on the now out of print book "Drive it Forever" this book was a compliation of recomendations for best long term durability based on research that was down by the former "Big Three" domestic auto manufactures in the 1950's,1960's and 1970's! Gm Performance parts sells engines that are also used in production vechiles and when not used in a production setting their recomendations fall inline with mine. If you look at same engine in an OEM application the owners manual does not recomend anyting other then regular OCI.

You might havenoticed that a lot of automanufactures have started extending their OCI. This is not becuase it is best preactice. They do it becuase their is huge pressure from marketing department to get initial cost of ownership numbers down as low as possable to attract people to lease's. Sure the vechile is not being hurt by normal warranty validation standpoint by theses extended oil change intervals with plain jane API dino oil but their longterm life cycle could very well be cut short. Now without full discolure of testing/validation data from the OEM's we have no idea how much effect it has.We only have general assumptions based on experince. I was at my local Cadillac dealership picking up some parts for the wifes buick and the sales guy said to me "We are getting 17,000-21,000 miles between oil changes going by the OLM on our GM Truck fleet!"I almost feel over since they are useing bulk 5W30 dino. These trucks are used for delivering parts to other garages and dealerships and runiing errands!

I also want to say that I know of vechiles that have gone 50,000-120,000 miles with either no oil change just top ups or 3-4 dureing their lifetime with topups. In each case the vechile easily made it out of warranty with no problems but had problems latter on! I am just makeing the point that while surviveable this too is an extreme instance of no being best practice.One of these is a friend's uncle and he live's in the mountains of Kentucy and routinely goes 120,000 miles on all his GM trucks with only 2-4 oil changes and lots of top-ups. He sells them all at 120,000 miles and gets another one. He has been doing this for years and years!
 
yep my cousin does that with his full size blazer 1995 i think... his burns alittle oil so all he does is just top off every month or so.. we did change the oil before he drove to tennessee and it was bad.. very bad.. the oil filter felt like 2 bricks and the oil was so so so thick.. he has 200k miles on his truck.. wanna know what kind of oil he put in his truck?? advance auto parts oil 10w30.. it only held 5 qts. my 3.4 v6 holds 6 and his is a 350 go figure
 
You gave the same answer as I was thinking to myself. Just wanted a little verification. I will be changing the oil in a couple of weeks when the car has 700 miles or so on it.
 
I'd change it soon like you normally do at 1500 miles, maybe even sooner.

There's lots of "talk" about leaving in the factory fill for the manufacturer's full OCI, but I still would rather change it early - like 1000 or so miles. Just my two cents.
 
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I have typically changed the oil on new cars within the first 1500 miles or so in the past. Is there any reason to keep the original factory fill oil longer than that in our new Mazda 3?




I kept my FF(Exxon) in for 5050 miles and then used a very close oil for another 16,500 miles (Exxon Mobil Drive Clean 5k and 75k) and now my car is strong as an ox/bull. I put in synthetic blend at 21,500 (Motorcraft 5w-20) and then full synthetic on the next OCI at around 26,xxx with Pennzoil Platinum. After that is where I am now with 3k on M1. Hope that helps..no rush to take out FF is my philosophy.


*Edit: I think this method trumps any metal shavings that might be there for a minute but the rest of the formulation is still coating the walls (again, I believe break-in happens continuosly up to life of engine)
 
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my opinin, philosophy,
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is to change out early. my last 3 rides i have done so and did this one at 800, i ran the drain over a very strong magnet and about a dozen little curly Q pieces of metal shavings stuck to it. its not conclusive because the pick up screen would probably catch it before recircing into the stystem but id rather have that stuff out than floating around in-circ, ive had good results with this method. again i reiterate its only my opinin, philosophy,
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When you rebuild an engine you run it for 20 minutes at 2000 RPM or higher to break the cam in. Then you drain the oil and change the filter to get all the solids that were caught by the filter out. You then drive the engine for the next 500 miles and then change it again. Then after this you normaly do a 1500-3000 miles oil change. If you are going to practice extended oil changes thennow is the time toss in some synthetic and do as you like. The above has been the general recomendation from hot rodders, engine builders and engineers for well over 30 year. Now I can see no reason why we should deviate from such a well documented process that produces consistently great results. How long do you think it takes for a ring to wear in when it is traveling back and forth at 1800-3000 RPM's day in and day out? micro polished roller Cams do not take long to break in niether do roller lifters and bearing.Most engines are fully machined prior to assembly with GM V8's being the exception. So their is no need to finish the machineing process for and extended period of time. Sure the engine continues to wear-in or wear-out depending on how you look at it until the day it dies but break-in is a very specific process and is not a longterm activity.
 
When a cost/benefit analysis is done, likely is sets the oil change cost high, like dealer oem $50 or more, not like the $5 it costs a hardcore BitOGer to do an oil change. How do you put a price on having the ~best~ serviced equipment?

How can better-than-good be "bad"?

I'm dumping about 2000 miles for Chevroline Supremo plus VSOT and Fram TG after a flush of Delo 30

lol, I put VSOT in my while it was still on the dealer's lot...hardcore.
 
It never ceases to amaze me how many people settle for mediocre. I am not a that good enough type of guy. It is one thing if you have no choice but it quite another to choose to be less then great!!
 
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lol, I put VSOT in my while it was still on the dealer's lot...hardcore.




LOL I did the same thing. Salesman and myself went to the local gas station before signing the final papers. When we got back to the lot I poured in a 1/2 bottle of VSOT. Neededless to say I got one strange look.

Told him this car is getting broken in fast and hard.
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Recommended first oil change on a new car? How far is your driveway from the dealership? Of course you brought a bottle of your gas additive with you when you went shopping. And you did not forget the tire pressure gauge, did you?
 
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"Drive it Forever" this book was a compliation of recomendations for best long term durability based on research that was down by the former "Big Three" domestic auto manufactures in the 1950's,1960's and 1970's!




I just think that motor oil and engines have changed quite a bit over the years (that data is older than me!). With many things on BITOG, I think this is a "whatever lets you sleep better at night" decision.
 
I like to change by 1k with dino (because I'm going to dump it anyway), then at 3k with synthetic. But then when I trade or sell a car, I always think about all the money I could have saved using a combination of Supertech and FAR Maxlife.

May be a wacky conspiracy theory, but I firmly believe Honda advises to keep the factory fill to keep their initial quality numbers up. Many small defects won't be reported unless the owner is already at the dealership, as for an oil change.
 
If you want to set the standard of changing your oil every 6 months if you don't drive much than you may be due for an oil change on the day of delivery because the vehicle is 6 or more months oil and the only miles could hardly be classified as anything but severe driving conditions at the dealership. I call the first couple of changes cheap insurance.
 
I just did an extractor change on my Accord w/1500 miles on the FF w/VSOT. The oil did look quite dark, considering. OLM is at 80%, I already hit the rev limiter and the top speed limiter.
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