How long does it take for the rings to seat?

[sir1900]

So the Nissan/Infiniti dealership in town doesn't recommend going from FF to synthetic. He recommends a couple OCIs using conventional before going synthetic so to allow for the rings to properly seat. Any validity to this?

The Q50 in my sig recommends 5W30. Engine is the 3.7L. Dealer told me not to use synthetic just yet, which I found interesting.

Some Nissan models using the 3.5L recommend 0W20 which only comes in synthetic. Interesting observation I made though is you can use 5W30 conventional as a substitute -- that's according to the 2015 Murano's owner's manual, which I found interesting. How can the rings be seated properly in the Murano if owners followed the recommendation of 0W20, but not in the 3.7L Infiniti?

 

[punisher]

Every engine is different. That being said I have never seen a modern moly plasmacoat ductile iron ring require any real break in at all. Start it, idle it, put it on the factory chassis dyno at the end of the line, and call it a day.

Follow the owner's manual/maintenance guide. In the end that is what covers your a** if problems arise.

 

[JC1]

Considering your in Saskatchewan and it gets very cold in the winter, I'd be suprised that they want you to use conventional. Do you use a block heater all of the time?

 

[4wheeldog]

Originally Posted By: sir1900
So the Nissan/Infiniti dealership in town doesn't recommend going from FF to synthetic. He recommends a couple OCIs using conventional before going synthetic so to allow for the rings to properly seat. Any validity to this?

The Q50 in my sig recommends 5W30. Engine is the 3.7L. Dealer told me not to use synthetic just yet, which I found interesting.

Some Nissan models using the 3.5L recommend 0W20 which only comes in synthetic. Interesting observation I made though is you can use 5W30 conventional as a substitute -- that's according to the 2015 Murano's owner's manual, which I found interesting. How can the rings be seated properly in the Murano if owners followed the recommendation of 0W20, but not in the 3.7L Infiniti?


Is the engine consuming any significant amount of oil? If not, it is already run in.

The concept of using conventional oil for run-in is obsolete, and totally unnecessary. (I hate the term "Break-in.....Run-in is one of the few Brit terms I prefer). Many new cars are delivered with synthetic in the sump.

Some manufacturers seem to use rings so hard that they can take between 10 and 20k miles to fully seat. They all seem to be German. I am not aware of Japanese selling engines so afflicted. But even then.......The rings will seat, even when using synthetic oil, if the engine is subjected to proper pressure and heat.

 

[Cujet]

Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog


Some manufacturers seem to use rings so hard that they can take between 10 and 20k miles to fully seat. They all seem to be German.


And, those same engines have connecting rod bearing issues at 50,000 miles.....

 

[OneEyeJack]

"Seating the rings" is an old fashioned concept. A modern engine is good to go by the time it leaves the factory.

Having said that I'd change the factory fill early and drive the car with care for the first few thousand miles. I tend to keep cars until they drop so a bit of extra care for me, is worth the effort.

My 84 Honda got its first oil change at a couple of hundred miles. The second at 1000 and the third at 2500 and the forth at 5000 and then every 5000 after that for 31 years, so far. I still have the car and drive it every day. I have no plans to ever sell it. My goal is to be able to drive it to my own funeral. It's a Civic wagon and I how the coffin will fit in the back with the seats folded down and that it fits in the grave.

 

[sir1900]

Originally Posted By: JC1
Considering your in Saskatchewan and it gets very cold in the winter, I'd be suprised that they want you to use conventional. Do you use a block heater all of the time?


I've used conventional on other vehicles in the past and never any problems. I do plug the vehicle in only when it's parked outside in the bitter cold. For the Infiniti, I plan to park it in the garage, therefore I have no intention of ever plugging it in.

 

[sir1900]

Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog
Originally Posted By: sir1900
So the Nissan/Infiniti dealership in town doesn't recommend going from FF to synthetic. He recommends a couple OCIs using conventional before going synthetic so to allow for the rings to properly seat. Any validity to this?

The Q50 in my sig recommends 5W30. Engine is the 3.7L. Dealer told me not to use synthetic just yet, which I found interesting.

Some Nissan models using the 3.5L recommend 0W20 which only comes in synthetic. Interesting observation I made though is you can use 5W30 conventional as a substitute -- that's according to the 2015 Murano's owner's manual, which I found interesting. How can the rings be seated properly in the Murano if owners followed the recommendation of 0W20, but not in the 3.7L Infiniti?


Is the engine consuming any significant amount of oil? If not, it is already run in.

The concept of using conventional oil for run-in is obsolete, and totally unnecessary. (I hate the term "Break-in.....Run-in is one of the few Brit terms I prefer). Many new cars are delivered with synthetic in the sump.

Some manufacturers seem to use rings so hard that they can take between 10 and 20k miles to fully seat. They all seem to be German. I am not aware of Japanese selling engines so afflicted. But even then.......The rings will seat, even when using synthetic oil, if the engine is subjected to proper pressure and heat.


I'm on the FF and currently have 2300 miles on the clock. I check the oil level regularly and it's always at the full mark.

I'm content on running conventional or a syn blend for as long as I own it. Infiniti wants 5k OCIs.

 

[Lapham3]

On the blocker heater-I like to use them to pre-heat in cold times. One thing I found strange is that I never could track down one from Nissan or aftermarket for my wife's '05 350. Maybe that's changed with the 370 engine?

 

[Jetronic]

I se quite a few new engines consuming oil, which then gradually lessens or disappears completely. How long this takes is dependant on the driver, and use of the car. My own car stopped using oil before the 10k mile mark and used about a pint in total before that. But I have a customer at work who is up to 36k now and still has some consumption, but considerably less now than he had before. His rings are finally starting to seat. His last consumption was a pint in 5000 miles.

 

[bbhero]

I'm very surprised that Nissan would spec a 0w20 for the 3.5VQ... Mine is 5w30 with the generation before mine it was possible to run a 5w30, 10w30, and even a 10w40. Very strange that now it's all right to run a 20 operating viscosity in the 3.5VQ. I agree with you though about running a synthetic blend and or synthetic.

 

[Robenstein]

Use a Group III "Synthetic" it is still just highly refined crude. Problem solved.

 

[sir1900]

Originally Posted By: bbhero
I'm very surprised that Nissan would spec a 0w20 for the 3.5VQ... Mine is 5w30 with the generation before mine it was possible to run a 5w30, 10w30, and even a 10w40. Very strange that now it's all right to run a 20 operating viscosity in the 3.5VQ. I agree with you though about running a synthetic blend and or synthetic.


I am surprised too. The wife bought a 15 Murano and they spec 0W20. I've read on numerous forums that the 3.5, like the 3.7, are not easy on oil at all. i haven't decided how I will proceed with what oil to use in hers. The manual says 0W20 or 5W30 conventional as a substitute.

I think the 0w20 has more to do with meeting CAFE requirements than anything else.

 

[Garak]

Yep, I don't know what to make of it either, but it is what it is. I assume you're going to be doing it yourself. The service will will be Mobil Super 1000 anyhow, unless you went for synthetic. If you are watching cold cranking numbers, Mobil Super 1000 isn't the ideal conventional out there. I'd probably look at Petro-Canada for their conventional 5w-30. But, that's just picking nits.

You could use RP break in lube for a short OCI if you really wanted to be creative, but I highly doubt that's necessary.

 

[larrymoencurly]

Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
"Seating the rings" is an old fashioned concept. A modern engine is good to go by the time it leaves the factory.

What are we breaking in during the first 1,000 miles, when the owner's manual recommends not revving to high RPMs, accelerating hard, or driving at constant speeds for extended periods?

 

[CBR.worm]

I believe you are running in every driveline component, including brakes, gears, accessories, etc.

I thought Nissan was recommending a particular, high ester oil for VQ's with VVEL to keep the ticking down.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: larrymoencurly
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
"Seating the rings" is an old fashioned concept. A modern engine is good to go by the time it leaves the factory.

What are we breaking in during the first 1,000 miles, when the owner's manual recommends not revving to high RPMs, accelerating hard, or driving at constant speeds for extended periods?


There are driveline components involved. Rear ends and transfer cases just need you to stay out of the lower gears.

The rotating assembly is either right or wrong at startup. No break in required. The rings are generally good to go in minutes. The ridiculous high mileage oil burners likely got gentle break in. Here we run them hard in the upper gears when new, no oil burners in fleet or personal stable...

 

[sir1900]

Originally Posted By: CBR.worm
I believe you are running in every driveline component, including brakes, gears, accessories, etc.

I thought Nissan was recommending a particular, high ester oil for VQ's with VVEL to keep the ticking down.



It's recommended but not required. As long as the oil is API-SN then it's good enough.

 

[Garak]

I dare you to ask Dilawri what they want for the ester oil change, or even a quart of the stuff. I'm afraid to ask because I don't want to faint in front of everyone.

 

[Olas]

IF it's new enough to be 'running in' it must be warrantied, and having free oil changes? They must save a lot of money doing 2x changes per car on mineral instead of synthetic.