How hot is too hot for motor oil

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mrlawnguy


I dont have all the answers to possible scenarios that may come up regarding any warranty claim. Sorry.

edyvw

My responses were not direct at any specific vehicle and what their build sheet had from the factory. There are ways to always sorta go around modifying some thing that can still work to improve and not necessarily violate a rule for class racing. Call it a "soft cheat" .
I agree with this. I really do not know the exact rule specifications, just what OP mentioned as I suggested the oil cooler from the beginning.
 

kschachn


When I found this forum and read many maybe about 15-30 threads thought this is a forum that has GREAT information and some really positive members and solid information. More people like myself that like better informed empirical data and experienced based information to form a better understanding of a subjects material. So I am not trying to be the THAT NEW GUY mentality and figured if I just jumped in to threads of my interest as well as wanting to help some members make good choices based on my level of training g and more so experience it would be of some value?
Maybe I just need to back off and simply post in my little personal thread for a while and let you all get use to me? :(
 
Is this also true even if a fluid like Maxlife ATF says it is compatible, that it won't void your warrenty. That is what the Valvoline site says, but of course they want you to buy their fluid (why wouldn't they?)
No clue about a particular situation like this - if the fluid meets the specifications of the manufacturer, then I don't see why not. The situation w/r to all of this and this site/questions here about oil would be "My car calls for VW504 00 0W30 and I like to use Rotella 5W40 diesel oil, will that void the warranty?". If that person has an oil-related engine failure and VW fought it based on the oil used (if that was even something that came up), Mag-Moss isn't helping you there b/c you didn't use an oil that met the manufacturers requirements.
 

kschachn


When I found this forum and read many maybe about 15-30 threads thought this is a forum that has GREAT information and some really positive members and solid information. More people like myself that like better informed empirical data and experienced based information to form a better understanding of a subjects material. So I am not trying to be the THAT NEW GUY mentality and figured if I just jumped in to threads of my interest as well as wanting to help some members make good choices based on my level of training g and more so experience it would be of some value?
Maybe I just need to back off and simply post in my little personal thread for a while and let you all get use to me? :(
Post away!
 
If you built competition vehicles with events restricted to regulations of modifying area's of the vehicle you would understand both of my comments. Let me help a little more hose or coolant LINES and all the specifications. wink wink! The wink is for those out there that know where I was going with the hose length. As for coolant comment, it is not contradictorily please re-read again all I said. Btw it not concentration of water but percentage.
And I am not sure why you made a blanket a statemen to not use water wetter? Your experience using it, didn't work out for you?

I am sorry not trying to create an argument, but when I am questioned about my response and need to qualify it better I do try to answer, most of the time!
I'm still lost on what you're trying to say about hoses or lines...why be vague?

I'm using percent and concentration interchangeably, what's the difference in this context?
I reread what you wrote, still doesn't make sense.
Certainly 100/0 would do better than 50/50, but there are reasons not to do so and 80/20 would still be a large improvement...do you disagree with this?

Water wetter doesn't have a great reputation based on other's experience on this forum. So, I personally would not use it.
No I don't have personal experience, but that's the point of a forum to draw on other's input/experience.

No argument intended, but you said things that seemed wrong, confusing, or questionable.
 

Davejam

I didn't make it up and while I would love to take credit engineers already beat me to it.
A hose or better a tube or line however you want to call it or whatever your available materials are for a the project connecting to the input and output of any factory cooler and exposing it to any source of air flow outside the engine compart presumably in front of the condenser will act in part like a Air-Cooled Heat Exchanger. Most heat exchangers generally have fins of some design that help produce a greater surface area for heat exchange. But even without the fins heat exchange properties does exist. If anyone is really interested you can find the formulas to ponder over.
As for water wetter, yup most who use it have poor results.... but those are also the ones that don't read how to use and follow the directions. Its not really best for a daily driver nor is it for a vehicle that is not constantly run because it is not really a substitute for coolant which two main properties are anti corrosion and freezing abilities that water wetter's really do not have. The other reason many have a poor experience using it is because they are using it to solve a already bad cooling problem. Water wetter should be used after you first have normal operating temperatures and want to augment them.


 
Sunday coming back home from San Diego over the Grapevine, temps hit 115* and the oil temp in the 2.0T Regal GS was at 250, she took it all in stride, this was coming up the long climb going north, running Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 and Wix. ;)
We took the Atlas up and back over the grapevine in similar temps - oil temp never exceeded 232*F.

I dont have oil temps in my Tacoma, but coolant temp never exceeds 200 under the same conditions and drive.
 
We took the Atlas up and back over the grapevine in similar temps - oil temp never exceeded 232*F.

I dont have oil temps in my Tacoma, but coolant temp never exceeds 200 under the same conditions and drive.
How do you know - as per temp gauge on dash or infrared thermometer?
 
On the VW it has oil temp as a screen.

On the Tacoma I have a blue tooth ODB connector. I get coolant, AT pan and TC temps.
 
All Volkswagen and Audi cars use to have an oil temp gauge (for roughly one decade at least).
The oil level and temp sensor is sitting in the oil pan.


EA888 3G oil glassfibre reinforced nylon pan:

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Hey I can do that as well. Here is stock pans for a 41TE/A604 Chrysler automatic transmission. Complete with a temperature sensor and external hose fitting for a oil cooler. :cool:
Most people really don't know how to interpret temperature's unless they are given a red zone or a specific danger temperature? I have never understood why on production cars they offer oil temperature gauges for an average consumer? Maybe something more to watch or in most cases ignore. Most don't know how to see on the dash which side the fuel/flap cap is on. :unsure:

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I agree with what BS comments, most Cu is most probably just from wear in. The slightly elevated Cu levels are seen on any EA888 3G on its first miles and it should decrease on the next UOA. All in all this UOA should make you sleep better.
From what I remember you were going to run M1 ESP 5W-30 now. Did you change coolant yet? If so, any perceivable change in oil temp?
 
Attached is the oil analysis from Blackstone, on the Total 0W-20 that was in the sump for quite a few events, including the most recent Hillclimb.
Cool. looking forward to how the M1 does.

Did you take any of the other advice into consideration regarding coolant mix?
 
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