How do these rotors look to you?

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I forgot to add that many Japanese vehicles use springs that are usually attached at the top of the pad and inserted into holes. These serve to separate pads from the rotor and increase pad life reduce noise when not braking from rubbing. These will often corrode away or fall apart prematurely and the system will work without them but not as effectively.
 
Originally Posted By: spk2000
Some brands of pads will squeal more than others. May need to check to see if the free floating pin is locked up as well. This will often cause pads to squeal too. The pads I see say ProStop which I believe is distributed by Pep Boys but may be available elsewhere too. In my experience Centric pads are not the quietest pads. Akebono are very good for noise and long term durability. You pay more for them but it depends on how often you want to work on your brakes. I have found if I go too long working on them though then things tend to get more corroded and locked up. Much harder to repair than if taken apart every few years.


The Centric 100 series pads that buster ordered are reboxed dealership pads - they are the exact same formulation but use Centric's hardware. My friend has been using these at his shop for about 2 yrs now with zero comebacks.
 
Originally Posted By: Ken2
Most likely the squeal is the steel backing plate of the pad rubbing at high frequency against the iron of the caliper. I'd take the pads out look for polished metal-to-metal contact points, put some caliper lube on those points, and put those pads back in. You might also put fine sandpaper on a flat surface and lightly dress the face of the pad. Save your new parts for next year.


I was thinking the same thing too. Could be worn pad hardware not keeping the pad in proper alignment. I noticed rust where the pad does not sweep the rotor face, and if the pad doesn't sit snug in the carrier (due to worn hardware) then while braking its possible that when the pad material does come in contact with a rust spot, it vibrates and makes the noise. I'm not wording this the best but I hope this makes sense.

As long as there is no scoring/grooving that can be felt as shown in the pics, and so long as the rotors don't have a 'lip' and measure above min, I'd keep as is [or put new pads on without machining, however do expect some noise while the pads seat] but perhaps use new hardware to try and alleviate the noise.

Someone also mentioned cleaning and re-lubing the slide pins, also check for the scoring on the pins. I'd highly recommend sil-glyde for lubing the pins available at your local Napa. Do not use the CRC dark gray stuff, it'll swell rubber parts.

Lately I have not been putting grease on the pad 'ears' where it sits in the carrier/hardware; when I do, it's very minimal and I find it washes out when I inspect them later on minimizing any benefit it has in lubing these contact points [which I find quite snug in the first place so as the pad ear slides in the carrier/on-hardware, it just pushes grease out, I hope that makes sense]. I do not get noise. However, all the pads I've ever been using lately have all had the nitrile coated bonded shims, I feel the nitrile coated shim greatly reduces the noise on the pads despite me not greasing the pad ears. I find new pad hardware far more effective then greasing pad ears/carrier contact points at reducing noise.
 
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