How do I...

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determine the approximate weight of a dino/synthetic blend I make myself?

Will simple math and averages get me close, or is there another way?

I.E. 3qts 5w20 dino and 3 qts M1 EP 15w50. Does it make a 10w35?
 
I don't think there is any way to predict imho.... why do it? It depends on the dino and you may have some unpredictable interaction of the additive packages. They have to be compatible but whos to say what you'll end up with... Maybe some experts will come up with something but I don't understand what the point of doing this is unless you just have some oil around and want to use it up....
 
No 35 category. I am going to guess a 10w40 slightly on the thin side. Google "API Engine OIl Classifications" and you will get the chart of viscosity ranges for each grade. Get the 100C viscosity (cSt) for your oil from the manufacturer's web site and do a weighted (in this case .5 and .5)) average of the logarithms of each 100C viscosity. The anti log of the sum is the new viscosity for the mix (approximate).
 
Yes.... approximate 10W-35

There doesn't seem to be a page for this weight because 10W-30/10W-40s are chart-recognized & 35s aren't, but that's about what you'll get by mixing. Technically, it's either a thick 30W or thin 40W.... but I see nothing wrong with recognizing it as a 35W. Just because oil manufacturers don't market 35s -- doesn't mean they cannot exist.
 
do a search on viscosity calculator, this has been posted here many times.

Not picking on you John K but I am tired of hearing this. SO this is not directed at you, but several posters in general.
And all this stuff about interaction of additive packages, I swear I am starting think that most around here are just a bunch of old women.

The chances of you to get a motor oil additive clash these days when using major brand oil products is probably less likely than getting hit crossing the street. And if you are monitering your oil, just by looking at it, the consequences of the remote occurance is probably even less.

Show one instance in real life where major name brands have been mixed and there has been proven additive clash outside a lab, I have yet to see one reported instance. Mobil and several others print right on the bottle, "compatible with ALL motor oils". If you know just a little about the oils you are mixing you probably know enough to avoid those that might have problems. And everything above goes in triple for mineral oils I bet.
 
That's ok, you can pick on me. I still don't understand why you would mix dino and synthetic, I know they sell blends, but..... I have run Mobil 1 of different viscosities but because I needed to add oil and I used what I had on hand. So, my opinion isn't worth much.(and I'm an old woman!).....I'll live.
cheers.gif
 
Why mix??? Sounds like a waste of money,product and time.I breed and raise horses.Have 30 head.Some folks still MIX oats,corn,other grains and minerals etc.WHY? The major feed suppliers have done the research and put togather the best blends you can buy.Some horse folks tell me they mix and its all I can do to keep lip zipped.
 
Mixing multi-grade oils is not like mixing straight 30 with straight 40. The only way to know for sure what viscosity you end up with when mixing multi-grades is to test it.


Ken
 
Well, figure the 5W-20 at 2.05 lbs per qt, less the weight of the bottle, and the 15W-50 at 2.11 lbs per qt, less the bottle, and you get

Oops, I guess you were talking about viscosity.
 
John K - thanks for being a sport, as for blending it can be for th reasons cited already. Or for various oter reasons. For mild winter months maybe you just want to tweak the viscosity index by adding a small amount of pure synthetic to a high grade conventional oil, etc.
The smaller the sump size the less mixing becomes practical I think, but when you start dealing with 3.5 gal sump changes, blending becomes much easier, especially when you don't intend on running much more than normal OCI's.

Houndog, i have horses too, and ussually I have a base feed that they get but sometimes if i want to add weight, target coat or hoof quality,or adding muscle tone, I might add low dose supplemental feed for periods until target qualities are achieved. I have found Envision to be a really excellent all -round supplement in this regard. Also in winter I will often supplement the normal coastal hay with good quality alfalfa. Also different parts of the country are lacking in different minerals which while may be made up for in the normal grain mix, the added supplemental may not always be in that great of a bio-available form, or there may still be certain trace elements missing. Therefore switching feed sources from time to time may help cover deficencies from any one source. For instance in the SE US the soils tend to be highly depleted in selenium and other elements, so hopefully you are feeding to offset those defficencies in the forage. Grasses in your area are probably better in many respects to the normal coastal bermuda we have here as well, while I really like the coastal as forage, it does not have as many varied elements as many bent grasses, fescues, etc. So supplementation becomes even more important. Naturally these animals would vary thier diet over the course of the year in the wild by moving from area to area to do this on thier own.
 
askoop - you mention mixing dino with Mobil 1....I would think you may end up not with additive clash but how about additive dilution if you mix oils that have different type additives? Maybe if you stayed with same brands if would be ok, or oils known to have same type additives?????
 
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