I would say a golden rod type unit that is used in gun safes would be the easiest and probably most economical way to keep things at least a little warm. I think Ive had the same one in my gun safe for 20+ years and it's still warm every time I check it.
How can I heat my tool boxes affordably?
- Thread starter Fordiesel69
- Start date
I have used remote bulb temperature controllers to keep things warm in the past. The temp sensor is attached to whatever you want to keep warm, and you plug it in. Will cycle the heater on/off based on that temperature - you set a on temp, off temp, and minimum off time. Then plug a electric heater into it and aim it towards your toolbox.
Of course safety is a key concern here, You now have a un monitored electric heater running on its own, so you use your best judgement.
I own this one and it worked fine for the one winter I used it. The best ones are made by Johnson Controls, but there 5X the cost.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Y2FDR4K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Of course safety is a key concern here, You now have a un monitored electric heater running on its own, so you use your best judgement.
I own this one and it worked fine for the one winter I used it. The best ones are made by Johnson Controls, but there 5X the cost.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Y2FDR4K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
The smart thing is to never leave something electrical on in an uninhabited shop, nor store or charge Li batterys there either.
A fire will not be good for tools your worried about either.
A fire will not be good for tools your worried about either.
Couldn't the same be said about leaving something electrical on in an uninhabited house, if even for a few hours (e.g., appliances, fans, etc.)? If the house catches fire, you have bigger problems than losing the tools.
Of course, storing gas cans or other flammables near electrical items is bad practice, but I'm assuming the average BITOGer has at least a shred of uncommon sense.
The "low and slow" methods mentioned...heating pads, golden rods gun safe heaters etc. seem the most prudent (aka smart / safe).
They're easily controllable with timers.
For heat loss, I'd consider making a "5-sided" box using scenery design techniques for the sides.
This is a minimal rectangular frame with one diagonal cross member for rigidity.
Hinge the elements so the box collapses.
Use "space blankets" (foil blankets given to runners after a race) , or material similar to car windshield foil 'dashboard savers'.
Make the sides thick enough to accept Styrofoam.
Actually, the huge chunks of Styrofoam discarded by Omaha Steaks customers, could be held together real easily....you'd just need enough of them.
They're easily controllable with timers.
For heat loss, I'd consider making a "5-sided" box using scenery design techniques for the sides.
This is a minimal rectangular frame with one diagonal cross member for rigidity.
Hinge the elements so the box collapses.
Use "space blankets" (foil blankets given to runners after a race) , or material similar to car windshield foil 'dashboard savers'.
Make the sides thick enough to accept Styrofoam.
Actually, the huge chunks of Styrofoam discarded by Omaha Steaks customers, could be held together real easily....you'd just need enough of them.
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There is no good reason the leave electric on in a shop or even keep it heated when not in use. Oil the tools with any spray on oil.
If the shop is insulated and has only dry vehicles allowed in it then moisture or humidity is pretty low. I have no rusting problems.
Oil film is the key, especially on bare metal. All Li batterys need special outside storage containers. Storing Li batterys in a shop is like having can's full of oily rags, maybe they go up and maybe not. Its a gamble. I'd rather go to a casino to do that it can be cheaper if you set a limit.
Put the boxes in a heated room in the shed.
I'm used to tools being cold in winter so dunno.
Gloves and I try to not work on stuff outside when it's -50*
I'm used to tools being cold in winter so dunno.
Gloves and I try to not work on stuff outside when it's -50*
Sounds terrible, like an Army MAITS facility. (Sucks to Suck they used to tell us.)
Sorry, no solutions other than try to turn the heat on ASAP, then do all the prep work, take a break and drive on.
Sorry, no solutions other than try to turn the heat on ASAP, then do all the prep work, take a break and drive on.
Take a five gallon bucket of hot water with you when you go to work in the garage, open your tool box top, dump in hot water. Nice warm tools.
Says the guy in Washington! It think the OP is talking about freezing tools not condensation.There is no good reason the leave electric on in a shop or even keep it heated when not in use. Oil the tools with any spray on oil.
If the shop is insulated and has only dry vehicles allowed in it then moisture or humidity is pretty low. I have no rusting problems.
Oil film is the key, especially on bare metal. All Li batterys need special outside storage containers. Storing Li batterys in a shop is like having can's full of oily rags, maybe they go up and maybe not. Its a gamble. I'd rather go to a casino to do that it can be cheaper if you set a limit.
I'm good in the garage until it gets to about 25 degrees. Then its nice to have heat enough to take the chill off. 40 degrees is perfect. I'm battling the cold tools here too, but have succumbed to wearing gloves. Which I despise.
But Exhaustgases has an excellent point about condensation. It won't be long before those cold garages and warm, damp outside air create a toolbox full of soaked tools. I hope to have a wood stove in my garage by then to dry things out.
Go online and look up pet heating pads. There are heating pads for outdoor and indoor use in various sizes, padded or solid water proof plastic. Been using them for years for pets that live outdoors, in a barn and in the garage. Just might work???
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