Honda VCM Disabling Questions

[GR_CoB]

So at what temperature does s-vcm stop spoofing the readings?

 

[Sequoiasoon]

Thanks guys, I’m sold.

I’m going to go ahead and order an S-VCM for the wife’s new Odyssey!

Now, for the big decision…oil! One thing I know for sure - it won’t be getting a 20 grade.

I'm doing the 5W30 Euro L in the Pilot. Wife's is a lot of short trip (about 2 miles) so might not even get warm. The UOA of the 0W-20 didn't thrill me so going a bit more robust and changing at less miles then MM was doing.

The fact that I got a bunch on good sale from links here at BITOG also helps that.

 

[I<3oil]

Thanks guys, I’m sold.

I’m going to go ahead and order an S-VCM for the wife’s new Odyssey!

Now, for the big decision…oil! One thing I know for sure - it won’t be getting a 20 grade.

Ours I've used everything from 0W-20 M1 EP to 5W-30 M1 EP to xW-30 Euro HPL and now on 5W-20 No VII HPL

 

[GR_CoB]

Now, for the big decision…oil! One thing I know for sure - it won’t be getting a 20 grade.

I'd go at least a 30 grade, but with HDEO or Euro (MB229.5/A40) additive package. I also like the 5W30 Euro L suggestion above.

Recently I ran some clearance Castrol HM 10W40, and that oil still looks new after 4000-5000 miles... After seeing the valvetrain pics of many engines on this forum I came to a conclusion that (with rare exceptions) a clean oil in the sump usually means varnish buildup in the engine. While dark dirty looking oil often reveals a spotless valvetrain. So with that in mind - I'm going back to Euro and HDEO oils, as soon as that clearance mini-stash runs dry.

 

[goingplacesanddoingstuff]

The VCM MUZZLER offsets ALL of the temperature readings, by whatever the size of the resistor is. So temp could be critical, but gauge may say "normal". These are heavily affected by weather and altitude.

The S-VCM and VCMTUNER are what's automatically able to do the process you explained.

Thanks for clarifying. My use of lower case was key. I wasn’t talking about a specific product. “kleenex”

 

[millerbl00]

I used S-Vcm in my 2020 Ridgeline. My scan tool showed the ECU running rich all the time because of tricking the ECU into thinking it was was running cooler. And I lost a solid 3 mpg. When I started getting a bunch of recalls in I traded it for a non- vcm vehicle. VCM-3 is more stable but I decided to avoid the whole problem

 

[RooflessVW]

I used S-Vcm in my 2020 Ridgeline. My scan tool showed the ECU running rich all the time because of tricking the ECU into thinking it was was running cooler. And I lost a solid 3 mpg. When I started getting a bunch of recalls in I traded it for a non- vcm vehicle. VCM-3 is more stable but I decided to avoid the whole problem

My MPGs have stayed the same.

 

[john_pifer]

I'm doing the 5W30 Euro L in the Pilot. Wife's is a lot of short trip (about 2 miles) so might not even get warm. The UOA of the 0W-20 didn't thrill me so going a bit more robust and changing at less miles then MM was doing.

The fact that I got a bunch on good sale from links here at BITOG also helps that.

Not criticizing at all, but do you tow or run it hard?

Isnt that like 3.5 HTHS?

Why did you decide to go with such a thick oil, especially being in NY?

 

[RooflessVW]

Not criticizing at all, but do you tow or run it hard?

Isnt that like 3.5 HTHS?

Why did you decide to go with such a thick oil, especially being in NY?

I'm going to 0W-40 when my stash is run dry.

 

[john_pifer]

I'm going to 0W-40 when my stash is run dry.

Man, M1 0W-40 is such a great oil. I’m running it in my Tacoma right now. But it has 289,000 miles.

Really, all the Euro oils are really good.

I’m just not sure there’s any benefit to running something that thick in this new Odyssey.

I suppose it would protect better in the summer.

I do like to get on it a bit when I drive it.

I was sorta thinking 5W-30 year-round.

I want to change the oil before it gets hot.

 

[UncleDave]

Man, M1 0W-40 is such a great oil. I’m running it in my Tacoma right now. But it has 289,000 miles.

Really, all the Euro oils are really good.

I’m just not sure there’s any benefit to running something that thick in this new Odyssey.

I suppose it would protect better in the summer.

I do like to get on it a bit when I drive it.

I was sorta thinking 5W-30 year-round.

I want to change the oil before it gets hot.

The Honda 6 is pretty easy on oil compared to lots of the chain driven 6's.
It's one of the reasons I haven't moved up to 30. The 20 stays a 20 instead of thrashing down.
My Vk56 will thrash a 30 to a 20 with no sweat.
Thats a J37 though, I don't know what difference the later heads may make.

 

[The Critic]

Man, M1 0W-40 is such a great oil. I’m running it in my Tacoma right now. But it has 289,000 miles.

Really, all the Euro oils are really good.

I’m just not sure there’s any benefit to running something that thick in this new Odyssey.

I suppose it would protect better in the summer.

I do like to get on it a bit when I drive it.

I was sorta thinking 5W-30 year-round.

I want to change the oil before it gets hot.

Oil viscosity is the least of your concerns.

 

[brages]

My replacement s-vcm has begun acting up. Temp drops all the way to full C in the middle of a drive

 

[brages]

The Honda 6 is pretty easy on oil compared to lots of the chain driven 6's.
It's one of the reasons I haven't moved up to 30. The 20 stays a 20 instead of thrashing down.
My Vk56 will thrash a 30 to a 20 with no sweat.
Thats a J37 though, I don't know what difference the later heads may make.

The J35A7 typically has a lot of varnish in the front head and examples with high miles often have pitting in the front camshaft. IMO, the camshaft issue is a manufacturing defect in the cam itself. It seems to be specific to this version of the J35. I don't know if 5w30 will help the cam last longer than 5w20. But when I was looking for a camshaft for my van, I had to go through five junkyard engines before I found a good camshaft.

I don't know if that really means it's "hard on oil" but it seems to me that quality oil is a good idea in these vans. Plus, people who run VCM often have problems with stuck rings and high oil consumption.

 

[john_pifer]

My replacement s-vcm has begun acting up. Temp drops all the way to full C in the middle of a drive

I was wondering how I’d know if it quit working, or something went wrong with it, since the “Gen 3” VCM doesn’t have an ECO light that comes on when it’s active. Your only clue would be if you could detect the vibration from the 3-cylinder operation.

So you had another S-VCM that went bad?

How long did it last?

How long has your current one been in service?

 

[brages]

My van came with a S-VCM from the previous owner. After a couple of years, it quit working and the VCM light started coming on. I contacted the seller of the S-VCM and he sent me a replacement (good customer service). That was in 2021.

So, three years later, I am getting occasional low temperatures. Maybe I just have a bad connection. I haven't looked closely.

 

[dan_erickson]

To the OP, if you're thinking of buying a 2023+ Pilot, then the jury is still out on if any of the popular VCM disabling devices work with the new DOHC engine. There are a few people who have scan tool evidence that even with the device connected, the new engine still reverts to 3-cyl operation. The VCM logic may be (certainly IS) more complex and other parameters affect operation than on the older 3.5L SOHC engine. If you're thinking of getting a new Passport with the older SOHC engine, then the devices still disable VCM mode as before.

So, funny you mention this. I have a 2022 MDX type S with the J30AC. 3.0 turbo charged. It has VCM and I installed S-VCM on my MDX over the winter time and I swear that it doesn’t work. I should say that the S-VCM works as intended, lowering the coolant temp to 165 degrees, but I swear the MDX still kicks into 3 cylinder mode. I don’t own a scanner that will show my cylinder deactivation but I will be driving and I can hear the tone of the exhaust change and it’s not stiffing gears.

 

[tbm5690]

The 2024 Odyssey still has the SOHC J35...for those that think it doesn't or aren't sure. So, the current VCM disable devices will work just fine.

I have the VCM Tuner II, used for coming on 4 years now and no issues. No Acura has the eco mode, so I know it's working because the coolant temp needle is visibly just a tad lower all the time than where it would be if it were displaying the accurate temp.

For oil, I run ESP 0W-30. It's mid saps which I like with the DI, and ours is a short tripper and in the winter hardly ever reaches operating temp so I like the extra protection against fuel dilution. It's no Honda 1.5, and the oil never reeks of gas, but our MDX is severe service.

 

[I<3oil]

My van came with a S-VCM from the previous owner. After a couple of years, it quit working and the VCM light started coming on. I contacted the seller of the S-VCM and he sent me a replacement (good customer service). That was in 2021.

So, three years later, I am getting occasional low temperatures. Maybe I just have a bad connection. I haven't looked closely.

If you read the link I posted a little earlier today, people having problems with the s-vcm aren’t very rare. It seems to have a lot more problems than the other muzzlers.

 

[I<3oil]

My MPGs have stayed the same.

The only time our van has been non-muzzled was when we drove it back from Florida. Onboard mpg hasn’t dipped since been muzzled.