Honda VCM Disabling Questions

Another question…

Can VCM be disabled with a Honda scan tool or a high end scanner such as certain Autel’s / etc?
 
Put a muzzler on son's 83K mile 2016 Odyssey before Christmas. The car threw a P0303 code for fouled plug on #3 cylinder. Replaced with a new NGK iridium and the vehicle has been flawless since. It was also burning an excessive amount of oil. Family drove the vehicle to Orlando and back, no sweat. After that I drove the car back to NC from SC ~100 miles. Ran great, no ECO light. Don't know if the mileage dropped, DIL is happy if the three kids she schleps around just act quiet and civilized.

Would I put one on a new Odyssey? I can't say, probably wouldn't buy one with a VCM system. Would I add it to a well used one, hell yea.
 
Thanks for that. How many resistors did they throw in? Values?

Not sure the common ones that works are 100 and 80. I had the 100 for a while it caused a CEL when it got cold. Put in an 80 and it’s been solid. I just got a pack of resistors on eBay for less than 2-3 bucks. I’m not paying 80 or up for a wire connector and resistors
 
Not sure the common ones that works are 100 and 80. I had the 100 for a while it caused a CEL when it got cold. Put in an 80 and it’s been solid. I just got a pack of resistors on eBay for less than 2-3 bucks. I’m not paying 80 or up for a wire connector and resistors
Smart! And thanks
 
Not sure the common ones that works are 100 and 80. I had the 100 for a while it caused a CEL when it got cold. Put in an 80 and it’s been solid. I just got a pack of resistors on eBay for less than 2-3 bucks. I’m not paying 80 or up for a wire connector and resistors
The problem is resistance needs to change based on ambient temp...the new tuners do this automatically and you aren't stuck with one single number that may or may not be best at those conditions. The older ones offered 10 different resistors that were easily selectable. Somewhat depends on climate, but I see temps as low as -25F and as high as 100F here which demands versatility.
 
The problem is resistance needs to change based on ambient temp...the new tuners do this automatically and you aren't stuck with one single number that may or may not be best at those conditions. The older ones offered 10 different resistors that were easily selectable. Somewhat depends on clima

The problem is resistance needs to change based on ambient temp...the new tuners do this automatically and you aren't stuck with one single number that may or may not be best at those conditions. The older ones offered 10 different resistors that were easily selectable. Somewhat depends on climate, but I see temps as low as -25F and as high as 100F here which demands versatility.
Thanks. true- but depends how sensitive the ecm is to this temperature range. If its not, probably not much impact. A quick calculation shows only about a 0.28 ohm change in those temperatures you experience, anyway
Waiting on ppl to get out their calculators and tell me im wrong LOL
 
There is no doubt one with actual logic would be better but for most the original idea of a resistor is adequate. It’s a couple dollar mod you can easily undo if you didn’t like it

80 ohm resistor is what I would use all day
 
Another question…

Can VCM be disabled with a Honda scan tool or a high end scanner such as certain Autel’s / etc?
Nope. Scan tool software is basically reverse engineered from OE, and Honda definitely doesn't want it to be disabled, whether it's better for the engine or not.
 
We just got a new 2024 Odyssey, and, even though a lot of people say that the VCM Gen 3 (which is what ours has) doesn’t cause the problems that the previous generations of VCM did, I’m still strongly considering disabling it.

From some brief research, it sounds like the S-VCM is the way to go, due to the fact that it allows the display of true coolant temp when/if an overheat occurs.

And I know at least 1 member, @RooflessVW is using one on his 2022. Have you had any problems from it?

So is there a consensus? Any disadvantage to the S-VCM, or reason to use a different brand?
 
We just got a new 2024 Odyssey, and, even though a lot of people say that the VCM Gen 3 (which is what ours has) doesn’t cause the problems that the previous generations of VCM did, I’m still strongly considering disabling it.

From some brief research, it sounds like the S-VCM is the way to go, due to the fact that it allows the display of true coolant temp when/if an overheat occurs.

And I know at least 1 member, @RooflessVW is using one on his 2022. Have you had any problems from it?

So is there a consensus? Any disadvantage to the S-VCM, or reason to use a different brand?
Mine is 2009, but I'm very happy with S-VCM. Almost 30k miles with it. Glad I didn't waste money on the cheap resistor type, and also glad I didn't go for the more expensive VCMTUNER II, since S-VCM does exactly the same thing. But for less, and in smaller package.
 
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We just got a new 2024 Odyssey, and, even though a lot of people say that the VCM Gen 3 (which is what ours has) doesn’t cause the problems that the previous generations of VCM did, I’m still strongly considering disabling it.

From some brief research, it sounds like the S-VCM is the way to go, due to the fact that it allows the display of true coolant temp when/if an overheat occurs.

And I know at least 1 member, @RooflessVW is using one on his 2022. Have you had any problems from it?

So is there a consensus? Any disadvantage to the S-VCM, or reason to use a different brand?
Tis true that Gen3 hasn't and doesn't cause as many problems but muzzling it > not muzzling it.

If you read this thread, it seems like there have been some issues with the s-vcm: https://www.odyclub.com/threads/s-vcm-controller.372273/
 
We just got a new 2024 Odyssey, and, even though a lot of people say that the VCM Gen 3 (which is what ours has) doesn’t cause the problems that the previous generations of VCM did, I’m still strongly considering disabling it.

From some brief research, it sounds like the S-VCM is the way to go, due to the fact that it allows the display of true coolant temp when/if an overheat occurs.

And I know at least 1 member, @RooflessVW is using one on his 2022. Have you had any problems from it?

So is there a consensus? Any disadvantage to the S-VCM, or reason to use a different brand?
No issues to report. I'm at 30k miles.

It actually fixed an issue I had with the cruise control. When VCM kicked in, the engine would slowly drop to 2mph below the set speed. Then it would turn off, drop a gear, and accelerate to 1mph above the set speed. Rinse and repeat.

With VCM disable, it's rock steady. Worth it for that alone.
 
I think it's about 50/50 on Piloteers for S-VCM vs VCM Tuner II. I got S-VCM because it was available. The VCMTUNER II is only available to order on like Monday morning at 9AM for a short time. Mine was doing what is was supposed to with no issues. Currently not installed sitting in my toolbox buts that for other personal and vehicle reason on my '19 Pilot.

Here is a pretty good written VCM thread from an ODY owner. VCM Mega Thread - Piloteers

I also use my VEEPEAK plug in and OBD Fusion to monitor temps on the trips. The new ScanGauge 3 has more PID's like rear differential temp also.
 
The VCM muzzler intercepts the temp signal to the computer and spoofs the temp just below the min required to enable cylinder deactivation. The unit still knows the real engine temp and will pass the real temp to the computer if it reaches dangerous levels.

It’s simple, easy, and worth it, in my opinion.
 
To the OP, if you're thinking of buying a 2023+ Pilot, then the jury is still out on if any of the popular VCM disabling devices work with the new DOHC engine. There are a few people who have scan tool evidence that even with the device connected, the new engine still reverts to 3-cyl operation. The VCM logic may be (certainly IS) more complex and other parameters affect operation than on the older 3.5L SOHC engine. If you're thinking of getting a new Passport with the older SOHC engine, then the devices still disable VCM mode as before.
 
The VCM muzzler intercepts the temp signal to the computer and spoofs the temp just below the min required to enable cylinder deactivation. The unit still knows the real engine temp and will pass the real temp to the computer if it reaches dangerous levels.

It’s simple, easy, and worth it, in my opinion.
The VCM MUZZLER offsets ALL of the temperature readings, by whatever the size of the resistor is. So temp could be critical, but gauge may say "normal". These are heavily affected by weather and altitude.

The S-VCM and VCMTUNER are what's automatically able to do the process you explained.
 
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